|
So my Snap-On torque wrench is in desperate need of calibration. Would I be better off having it calibrated and rebuilt by Snap-On for ~$60 or..?
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 20:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 20:53 |
|
|
EvilCrayon posted:So my Snap-On torque wrench is in desperate need of calibration. Would I be better off having it calibrated and rebuilt by Snap-On for ~$60 or..? If it's less than the cost of a new one, yes.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 21:00
|
|
|
I like 3M's bristle discs for removing gaskets. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...0glGS5QSKMQF1bl
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 21:40
|
|
|
A tip I saw online that works like a champ: Have a bolt that needs to go in a tight spot where you might drop it? Don't have any magnetic sockets in the size you need? Take a little scrap of paper and stick it on the socket hole. Then push your bolt into the paper and into the socket. For this example I used a scrap of blue paper shop towel because I always have them around. Regular paper works fine too.    I LOVE my Harbor Freight color coded sockets. They are not the best sockets, but the color coding makes them so much faster to pick out.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 22:53
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I LOVE my Harbor Freight color coded sockets. They are not the best sockets, but the color coding makes them so much faster to pick out. Just look at that high quality anodizing.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 23:03
|
|
|
I usually use a gob of grease to keep nuts in the socket, will have to remember that.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2012 23:37
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:fuckoff huge sizes that I probably won't encounter in my lifetime. Seatbelts.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 04:48
|
|
|
velocross posted:May have to try that out, I do like the aerosol idea. Did you find it local or have to order it? Permatex generally makes some pretty good stuff. It's easiest to find at NAPA, I think. And it really is amazing poo poo.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 05:04
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Brakes are like the easiest job you can do on a car. I would rather change brakes than change oil. Oil changing is so messy. I hate handling the oil and getting it disposed, pouring it back into containers... because some how you always manage to spill the poo poo. There is a guy down the road from me that charges about 5 dollars more than what I can do it myself. So I just let him do it, and he is good at what he does. I hate changing oil.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 19:34
|
|
|
Ugh, what's up with all this brakes love? I hate dealing with brakes. No matter how careful I am, I always seem to round off a flare nut or four, and the improvising gets more and more creative each time. Then bleeding is a pain, and twiddling with the adjusters through the stupid slot, it's just a pain in the rear end. I'll take a dead simple oil change any day over that noise!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 19:42
|
|
|
1. replace your bleeders with speed bleeders (and put the rubber caps on so they don't get gummed up) 2. gently caress drum brakes, disc swap is in your future 3. buy a drat good quality set of flare/line wrenches. 4. never use a wrench to get a bleeder screw broken free when you can put a 6 point socket over it. Aside from horribly rusted blob-shaped ones, I haven't rounded one off since I started doing this.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 19:55
|
|
|
kastein posted:1. replace your bleeders with speed bleeders (and put the rubber caps on so they don't get gummed up) I've heard mixed reviews about speed bleeders, ought to try them sometime. I've driven manual disc before, not something I want to daily drive. I've never rounded a bleeder, I do use a 6-pt socket on them to break them free, it's the flare nuts that always go. I have a set of flare nut wrenches, but I have no idea how "good" they are.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 19:59
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Then bleeding is a pain Buy a power bleeder and never look back.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:10
|
|
|
OneTruePecos posted:Buy a power bleeder and never look back.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:16
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Or you can make one for like $20 bucks that's the same thing. I even put a little tire valve stem on mine so I just hit it with the air compressor to like 10 PSI and that's enough to fully flush almost a whole car. To make one I am guessing drill a hole in JY brake fluid cap, insert valve stem, seal with jb weld, use bike tire/air compressor to push out fluid. Is this what you did? If not couldn't I do this for like $3?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:19
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:To make one I am guessing drill a hole in JY brake fluid cap, insert valve stem, seal with jb weld, use bike tire/air compressor to push out fluid. The DIY ones (I looked into it, and intend to make one, someday) use one of those pesticide pump deals.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:22
|
|
|
What power brake bleeders are good?
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:32
|
|
|
bolind posted:What power brake bleeders are good? The standard non-professional one that everyone at the track has around here is the Motive. I've had mine for years. Works great. I wouldn't consider doing brakes or clutches without one.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:33
|
|
|
That's a pretty decent idea... if you want to really go all out, make it with a siphon jar that holds a liter or two of brake fluid so you don't have to worry about running the master cylinder dry.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 20:58
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:To make one I am guessing drill a hole in JY brake fluid cap, insert valve stem, seal with jb weld, use bike tire/air compressor to push out fluid.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2012 21:07
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:Just look at that high quality anodizing. You don't anodise steel.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 00:52
|
|
|
echomadman posted:You don't anodise steel. Really? Why not? (serious question - thinking back on anodized items and they've all been aluminum)
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 06:52
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:Really? Why not? (serious question - thinking back on anodized items and they've all been aluminum)
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 07:00
|
|
|
kastein posted:That's a pretty decent idea... if you want to really go all out, make it with a siphon jar that holds a liter or two of brake fluid so you don't have to worry about running the master cylinder dry. Yeah, was thinking about that as well. With the Motive one, you need to disconnect everything and add brake fluid as you use it, yeah? Also, cool new links when quoting.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 08:57
|
|
|
Both the motive and the garden sprayer have a tube that sucks from the bottom of the bottle. You are pushing out fluid, not air into the MC. A trick though, when you're doing the last corner, tilt the bottle so it doesn't suck up fluid and you just let it run until the master cylinder is at the right level and you don't make a mess when you have to disconnect the hose/cap and don't have to drain fluid.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 09:47
|
|
|
OK, so some brake fluid goes into the motive bottle? Cool. I need to get myself one of those.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 09:58
|
|
|
dyne posted:Anodizing steel would make it rust. Not stainless.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 13:01
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:No ideas myself, but you could also ask in the thread about A/C, might get a useful response: Thank you, didn't know we had a a/c thread
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 14:09
|
|
|
Vork!Vork!Vork! posted:I like 3M's bristle discs for removing gaskets. This. Using plastic bristles on an angle grinder makes using a razor blade seem like the stone age. It's good for anything where you need to remove crap without damaging the surface metal.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 15:27
|
|
|
Neptr posted:This. Using plastic bristles on an angle grinder makes using a razor blade seem like the stone age. It's good for anything where you need to remove crap without damaging the surface metal. Except I've seen aluminum surfaces ruined by even the white (lightest) bristle discs. Have you noticed that no matter how lightly you use one on aluminum it still ends up leaving swirls? That's missing metal. You may get away with that just fine if you are exceptionally careful, but you are really asking for problems especially with bimetal engines and MLS gaskets. I "repaired" one for a friend that failed to do excessive scotchbriting by coating the new gasket with Hylomar (which I can't even find locally anymore - Permatex used to sell it so it was in most parts stores). That's what I consider an atrocious hack job, but it worked for a few years at least (truck has since been sold). I get it, everyone wants a faster and easier way. I do too. But I won't do it to the detriment of doing the job properly. Sharp razor blades at very low angles and solvent get the job done without risk of damage, so I'll be sticking with them until I see something better that doesn't remove metal.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 15:51
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Except I've seen aluminum surfaces ruined by even the white (lightest) bristle discs. Have you noticed that no matter how lightly you use one on aluminum it still ends up leaving swirls? That's missing metal. I've been buying Hylomar, or smurf poo poo, from Amazon believe it or not. http://www.amazon.com/Valco-71255-1-5-BLUE-HYLOMAR/dp/B003TQ07P0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1337617834&sr=8-8
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 17:30
|
|
|
If you drag the razor instead of pushing it (i.e. use it more like a spackle knife that happens to be very sharp and made out of metal) it won't really hurt aluminum no matter what angle you use it at. Excessive force and/or issues between the ears of the user can still cause problems of course.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 19:29
|
|
|
You guys are funny. I used sandpaper on my VC and it's been leak free for years. Nice shiny mating surface too.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 22:34
|
|
|
What's the word on Harbor Freight's US General boxes? I need a new box for my new place and the USG are priced pretty reasonably. Specifically this one http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tool-cabinets-and-carts/44-13-drawer-gloss-red-industrial-uality-roller-cabinet-68784.html I like that I could later buy expansion parts for it if need be. Anybody got this particular unit?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2012 23:30
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:What's the word on Harbor Freight's US General boxes? I need a new box for my new place and the USG are priced pretty reasonably. That box is an amazing deal. Seriously, even at the new, higher price, its the best deal going. Plus they got rid of the old wrinkle finish powdercoat and went glossy. Buy it if you have the space, and a way to move it.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 00:25
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:What's the word on Harbor Freight's US General boxes? I need a new box for my new place and the USG are priced pretty reasonably. I used one at the machien shop I used to work at and it was really good quality and smooth for the price.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 02:18
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Not stainless. I can't stop laughing at this. Motronic posted:Sharp razor blades at very low angles and solvent get the job done without risk of damage, All it takes is one nick on the cutting edge or slipping and dragging a corner. Carbide scrapers work so much better.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 02:46
|
|
|
Any one ever used one of those "flat-liners" that has been seen on wheeler dealers? It looks like it would be awesome for doing some minor body work. And where I could purchase one?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 03:38
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:That box is an amazing deal. Seriously, even at the new, higher price, its the best deal going. Plus they got rid of the old wrinkle finish powdercoat and went glossy. Buy it if you have the space, and a way to move it. Lord Gaga posted:I used one at the machien shop I used to work at and it was really good quality and smooth for the price. Sweet, good to know. I'm holding out hope for a smaller price drop during the sidewalk sale, if I can snag it for under $300 I'll snatch one up. I have an excellent place for it in my garage as well, an elevated ledge below some windows.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 03:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 20:53 |
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Any one ever used one of those "flat-liners" that has been seen on wheeler dealers? It looks like it would be awesome for doing some minor body work. And where I could purchase one? Could you explain what this for those who haven't seen the show?
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2012 03:48
|
|
