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Stultus Maximus posted:100% cotton should be fine in a washing machine. Also, washing AND drying 100% cotton in hot water/high drying heat will pre-shrink it as much as you can do. It may still shrink after that, but that's cotton for you. Update: I did a tiny bit of antiseptic detergent and a double dose of Downy and put it on the longest mode possible. The fabrics turned out extremely soft.
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May 6, 2012 04:35
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What does everyone think of today's goldbox deal on Amazon? I grabbed it cause the reviews/comments were good, but I'm still kinda iffy.
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May 7, 2012 01:20
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I know this is making me a luddite but I don't trust computerized machines. One of my studiomates had one, and I just couldn't control it. I made a new shirt!  I look really stubby here because my boyfriend is an even foot taller than me, and he took the photo.  Finally reached the point where I've got that sleeve placket down pat. Doin' plackets in my sleep. Now I'm all entrenched in colorwash quilting and sewing together incredibly fussy little 1" squares of florals.
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May 7, 2012 13:29
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Nice shirt goldaline! ........aaand since we're talking about shirts (specifically business shirts), how difficult is it to alter them? It's basically impossible for my partner to find a shirt that fits properly. As a newbie sewer I didn't trust myself to do the job so told him to buy a bigger one and get it adjusted, but both that and getting one tailor-made is looking at being reeally expensive here. If I practiced on some second-hand shirts and basted first, could it be viable?
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May 7, 2012 13:55
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Eden posted:Nice shirt goldaline! Alter them how? In what way do they not fit? And how exactly are you defining "really expensive?" Dress shirts are defined by neck and sleeve measurements, as well as (sometimes) a slim/athletic/classic body shape. Pretty much everyone is covered by those options, so where is your concern?
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May 7, 2012 17:05
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TheNothingNew posted:Alter them how? In what way do they not fit? If you can't get "athletic" fit and need it, the shirt is like a tent. Also, sleeve measurements tend to be things like "34/35" and as far as I know, my arms don't have two different measurements at once.
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May 7, 2012 17:09
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Stultus Maximus posted:If you can't get "athletic" fit and need it, the shirt is like a tent. Also, sleeve measurements tend to be things like "34/35" and as far as I know, my arms don't have two different measurements at once. Sure, and both getting the body slimmed and shortening sleeves are probably the most common and cheapest alterations. That "close enough" approach to sleeve length infuriates me to no end, I'll admit. Forgot to say: Goldaline, the shirt looks about perfect for a fit. I'd maybe slim the sleeves, they look billowy and contrast a bit with the fitted body. Or maybe that's what you were going for.
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May 7, 2012 17:28
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TheNothingNew posted:Forgot to say: Goldaline, the shirt looks about perfect for a fit. I'd maybe slim the sleeves, they look billowy and contrast a bit with the fitted body. Or maybe that's what you were going for. I'm one of those freakish people that's hot all the time, so my sleeves end up cuffed a lot-it's hard to roll 'em up if they're slim. It does look a bit goofy when they're down though...
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May 7, 2012 23:25
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Eden posted:Nice shirt goldaline! Do you have an express? Express is basically the only place I could ever regularly find athletic cut small sized shirts that actually fit my super narrow shoulders. Any other place I would end up wearing a billowy tent. Actually GAP also has/had some too, but I only saw them for order online.
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May 9, 2012 10:14
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I live in Australia so nope, no express. Quotes for alterations are looking to be around $50, a full tailoring $150. We are looking at buying a shirt in the maybe $50-$70 range (which will get you something pretty decent). I know sometimes you need to spend the money but he's currently supporting us both while I study so money is tight. Sorry for not being specific, I originally was but thought my bf might not appreciate it. Basically his neck is like 2-3 sizes bigger than his body ie. to fit his neck, it's a tent on him (even with a slim fit). He normally circumvents this by just having the top couple of buttons undone but he wants a shirt that fits nicely that he can wear a tie with. The guy at the store suggested maybe being able to move the top button but that didn't end up being a viable option.
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May 9, 2012 13:07
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Eden posted:I live in Australia so nope, no express. Quotes for alterations are looking to be around $50, a full tailoring $150. We are looking at buying a shirt in the maybe $50-$70 range (which will get you something pretty decent). I know sometimes you need to spend the money but he's currently supporting us both while I study so money is tight. Nothing to be ashamed of, we all have our problems to work around. In this case you are going to need to make something or get something made, because (as you've found) the neck measurement is the one that the rest of the shirt is based off of. Proper made-to-measure doesn't have to be that expensive. I and others have had luck with Modern Tailor (http://www.moderntailor.com/). It'll require you to spend some time together, measuring him. Get the first shirt as cheap as possible, to dial-in the fit. You should be able to get the first one for ~$30 (there are some cheap, "new-customer-only fabrics). If you want a better shirt, you can then get that (if you catch the fabric on sale, maybe $60?), and meanwhile you'll have the first, "test" shirt that you can happily tear open and make copies of. Prices assume parity between the USD and the AUD, and that there isn't some dumbass customs fee. If you go this route: 100% cotton only, and don't buy anything but shirts from them.
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May 9, 2012 17:19
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I need some advice. I am in the market for a new sewing machine, and I am not sure what to get. I have been scouring flea markets, yard sales, and classified adds for a month and the only thing in my area that seems to come up are old singers that have rusted beyond repair. So! I have a $200 budget for a new one, to be my birthday gift, mostly to make thousands of circle skirts to avoid maternity clothes. http://www.amazon.com/SINGER-7256-Fashion-70-Stitch-Computerized/dp/B005HR1JMO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1336611411&sr=8-6 http://www.amazon.com/SINGER-4423-Heavy-Sewing-Machine/dp/B003VWXZQ0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1336611411&sr=8-7 The fiance likes the first one, while I was leaning towards the second one, but I really don't have a clue. I don't plan on sewing any denim or leather on this machine, so I am not too too worried about plastic gears, but other than that I am clueless. So lend me your wisdom. If you had $200, which machine would you get?
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May 10, 2012 01:58
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Doesn't matter WHAT you're sewing, get the second one. Computerized sewing machines are mostly a gimmick and pretty finicky. The heavy duty one will be much more consistent with whatever type of fabric you sew, and that'll save you a lot of headache in the long run. As in, you won't start to hate sewing.
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May 10, 2012 02:44
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I dont know where you're looking but I've had pretty good luck with thrift stores, particularly Goodwill. I got my machine for $1.29, one for a friend for $35, and earlier this week a serger for $40. I've seen a machine with a table for $10. Speaking of which I'm looking for serger learning resources.
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May 10, 2012 05:30
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Eh, I have a computerised machine and I love it. I haven't had any problems with it being finnicky or loving up work, it just beeps a fair bit and I guess that could drive you crazy because it's a bit like sewing with a microwave.
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May 10, 2012 10:20
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My biggest complaint so far with my computerized machine is that everytime I turn it on it switches to the default stitch settings which sucks if you forget that it does that or forget what your settings were.
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May 10, 2012 15:28
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That is my biggest fear with a computerized machine, it seems like there are a lot more breakable parts. http://www.amazon.com/Janome-Magnolia-7318-Sewing-Machine/dp/B001I1D1VA/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1336660750&sr=1-1 I was also looking at that Janome machine. What what I have heard, the singers made today are basically made by another company then they were in the 80's and before. I don't know how true that is, though. Also, I am in North Carolina, land of furniture. I will be hitting up the thrift stores again this weekend, but so far I have had zero luck. Not even any decent fabric.
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May 10, 2012 16:20
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I got a Brother 1034D 3/4 Lay-In Thread Serger for a reasonable price online about a year ago but haven't yet figured out how to use it for knits/stretch fabrics without making the edge weird and ruffly and wavy. Anyone have any advice/online resources I could take a look at?  Edit: Goldaline: Your poo poo is amazing. Are those asymmetrical pockets?
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May 10, 2012 16:29
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Stay away from the heavy duty Singer. I bought one for my girlfriend last year and it broke in a day. I exchanged it for another, and that one broke too - the same exact problem (dogs don't return to start when you drop them). Finally I sat myself down at JoAnn's sewing center and compared it to every other Singer they had, and Curvy won. http://www.amazon.com/SINGER-8763-Computerized-Sewing-Machine/dp/B0027DLWS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336666964&sr=8-1 Yes, it's computerized but it can do everything the heavy duty can AND it's been working perfectly for her (she's a beginner). It's a great machine for her. PS - the bobbin tension was off on the first heavy duty I bought, so when I brought it up to the saleswoman at JoAnn's she was all, "Oh, that's set at the factory, it's right." I plugged the thing in right then and there and showed her that it sucked, and she didn't have anything else to say about it - was just confused. Curvy was spot-on, though, and I haven't had to crack it open for adjustments yet...and she's sewing leather. Rufus En Fuego fucked around with this message at 17:31 on May 10, 2012 |
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May 10, 2012 17:24
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amishsexpot posted:I got a Brother 1034D 3/4 Lay-In Thread Serger for a reasonable price online about a year ago but haven't yet figured out how to use it for knits/stretch fabrics without making the edge weird and ruffly and wavy. Anyone have any advice/online resources I could take a look at? I don't use a serger but my mom has one and she said the best resource she found was videos on youtube.
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May 10, 2012 19:48
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Comrade Quack posted:My biggest complaint so far with my computerized machine is that everytime I turn it on it switches to the default stitch settings which sucks if you forget that it does that or forget what your settings were.
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May 10, 2012 19:53
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Eh, I had an old metal machine from the 70s which crapped out on me, so my family went out and got me a computerized machine. It's fine. I'm not professional but I haven't had any problems. I can see where broken parts might get annoying, and I'm unsure how I'm going to clean it yet, but it sews great and I really enjoy it. I kind of feel like, much like most cars, you just get used to whatever sewing machine you work on.
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May 10, 2012 20:50
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Rufus En Fuego posted:Stay away from the heavy duty Singer. I bought one for my girlfriend last year and it broke in a day. I exchanged it for another, and that one broke too - the same exact problem (dogs don't return to start when you drop them). Finally I sat myself down at JoAnn's sewing center and compared it to every other Singer they had, and Curvy won. http://www.amazon.com/SINGER-8763-Computerized-Sewing-Machine/dp/B0027DLWS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336666964&sr=8-1 Fair enough. I've used old Adlers for most of my sewing and have had bad experience with newer machines, so I was going off of that. Maybe I'll look into that for myself! (haha no I am trying to go pro and the volume of sewing I would do would trash it) Also, I made a dress:  It was a hit! Really nice faux suede farbic, like wearing a comfy old couch. It fit perfectly, which was awesome because I made the pattern myself. It was tough because the machine I made it on wasn't an old Adler, and had issues with feeding the top thread that I couldn't work out, but I was able to hide that, mostly. Very fun job but I wish I had a better machine! I used an invisible zipper too, which involved running out to the sewing shop before they closed so I could get the right presser foot. Totally worth it though.
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May 12, 2012 18:58
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 I made this for mother's day! I usually make doll clothes, making people clothes is nearly a treat. It swallows my ghetto dress form AND THAT IS OKAY.
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May 13, 2012 22:17
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e. Never mind 
PiratePing fucked around with this message at 01:18 on May 29, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 19:24
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I just bought a Singer Tradition for $100 on Saturday. The last time I sewed anything was a pillow or a bag or something 10 years ago (almost) in seventh grade. As my mom is/was a seamstress, she is helping me a bit, but so far I've made two pillows! Including one made of that annoying fraying fabric that saris are made from. I mostly got a sewing machine because I am a 5'10" lady with huge hips so nothing ever fits me. I honestly have no clue what I'm doing, but I am going to try to make simple pajama pants this week (again, with help)
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May 30, 2012 03:30
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I was given a Brother CS6000i as present, but before I can start my grand sewing adventure, I need to get an iron! Any suggestions?
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May 30, 2012 22:59
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Rowenta! I have a Shark that's decent too, but I only use that for stuff that might affect the iron. It also says that it's stain and rust proof, but that hasn't been my experience. Rowenta.
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May 30, 2012 23:10
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What can I do to keep my neckline and armhole facings from looking like rear end? I made this dress (view C) , and although it doesn't look too terrible when I wear it, I can't help but notice the seams puckering on the facings, and the whole "why the gently caress won't they stay flat???" As it is, I want to remake it anyway and making sure it looks awesome contruction-wise is important.
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May 30, 2012 23:39
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I've never made a quilt before. I'm a beginner at sewing and I think a quilt would be a good way to get really familiar with the machine and sewing basics. I want to make this and I can't for the life of me figure out how to piece these blocks. Does anyone have a pattern or tips? It was posted several pages ago and I can't remember by whom since I just saved the picture. e: Is anyone using or has used a Brother LS-2125i? I'm having a hell of a time with upper and lower thread tension. After rewinding bobbins and fiddling with upper tension to no end, I finally started messing with the bobbin tension and can't remember where it was set at the factory. Any tips? BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 01:11 on May 31, 2012 |
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May 31, 2012 01:08
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NancyPants posted:I've never made a quilt before. I'm a beginner at sewing and I think a quilt would be a good way to get really familiar with the machine and sewing basics. Think of it as made up of 3x3 blocks. Sew together two 1x1 pieces. Then sew a 1x2 perpendicular to the first seam. Then sew another 1x2 parallel to the first seam. Last, finish it off with a 1x3 strip. When piecing a quilt, look at the seams, not the shapes
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May 31, 2012 02:00
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Reverend Cheddar posted:Think of it as made up of 3x3 blocks. Sew together two 1x1 pieces. Then sew a 1x2 perpendicular to the first seam. Then sew another 1x2 parallel to the first seam. Last, finish it off with a 1x3 strip. I approached it that way, but I'm stuck because that means I can't line up the edges of my 1x1 piece blocks with the 1x2, I have to sew it centered with the seam allowance of the 1x2 hanging off unless I'm not accounting correctly for seam allowances. I gave myself 1/4" seam allowances all around without accounting for placement of the blocks, so for my 1x1" pieces I cut 1.5" pieces and so on.
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May 31, 2012 02:39
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Hmm you might have measured it a bit off in that case. Do you have a pic of what it looks like now?
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May 31, 2012 03:25
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NancyPants posted:e: Is anyone using or has used a Brother LS-2125i? I'm having a hell of a time with upper and lower thread tension. After rewinding bobbins and fiddling with upper tension to no end, I finally started messing with the bobbin tension and can't remember where it was set at the factory. Any tips? Does it just use a little flathead screw in the bobbin case? They say you're not supposed to mess with the bottom tension, yeah, but if it does go off, the rule of thumb is to get the tension to be even at a "reasonable" top tension for whatever fabric you sew most. So with cotton broadcloth, start at maybe 3 or 4 on the top and just adjust the bottom until the stitches disappear between the two layers of fabric on both sides. To check if it's perfect, you can grab one of the threads and pull; if it breaks you're in business. Check both sides. You can also see if it's too tight all around by sewing along the bias, and then stretching the fabric along the bias to make sure the threads don't break. You may of course end up with some weird fabric/thread/needle combination that screws the machine up. My last project was a slippery polyester and I was using polyester thread, and the machine I was using wouldn't stay consistent with its top tension at all. Worked fine with cotton cloth though.
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May 31, 2012 22:27
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Is this the thread for fabric dye? I hope so. I have a wool (I think) blazer in seafoam green that needs to be sort of teal. I'm thinking of mixing equal parts blue and green fabric dye and misting it on to the blazer, possibly through cheesecloth or something to diffuse the spray even more. Does this sound like it would work?
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May 31, 2012 23:50
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What kind of dye? What you can and cant do will depend completely on the dye. Not all dyes will work on wool. I will say to remember that dyes are translucent and additive, so just mixing a dye to color wont work, you have to take into account the color of the fabric as well.
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Jun 1, 2012 07:05
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I was planning on using Rit but I haven't bought the stuff yet. It really just needs to be a smidge darker and blue-er. It's only for a costume, so it doesn't have to be PERFECT, either. e: I was mistaken; it's polyester. The polyester dye process looks like it would be even less forgiving of halfassing. What happens if I dip a dry clean only garment in boiling water, anyway? an audible groan fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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Jun 1, 2012 07:14
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an audible groan posted:I was planning on using Rit but I haven't bought the stuff yet. It really just needs to be a smidge darker and blue-er. It's only for a costume, so it doesn't have to be PERFECT, either. Several Dry Cleaners come to your house and beat you until you promise never to do it again. Then they take the garment away and you find it a week later cut into pieces and distributed through various washing machines.
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Jun 1, 2012 09:02
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NancyPants posted:I've never made a quilt before. I'm a beginner at sewing and I think a quilt would be a good way to get really familiar with the machine and sewing basics. It's a pattern that's very popular that a lot of people call Bento Box - it's a Courthouse Step block cut into four pieces, then put back together. Here's a good tutorial: http://sonnetofthemoon.blogspot.com/2009/01/bento-box-quilt-step-1.html http://sonnetofthemoon.blogspot.com/2009/01/bento-box-quilt-part-2.html edit: she also links to this http://webpages.charter.net/cmladronka/bminorblock.htm which has the individual pieces cut out - but I like the method of making the Courthouse Step block and then cutting it. I am lazy. The version in your picture is a miniature version of that. handbags at dawn fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 1, 2012 |
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Jun 1, 2012 22:19
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I fell in love with a maxi dress at a store and bought it because it was the only one left. The problem is it's a size large and I'm a size small. It has elastic in the seam that goes across the back (from pit to pit, back only). Does anyone have a recommendation for how much ease to leave in there? For instance, if the measurement underneath my bust-line is 29", should I alter the dress to be 27" unstretched? I tried to do the whole "put it on and pinch until it fits" thing, and I just couldn't get a good feel for how much I should be stretching it while wearing it.
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Jun 2, 2012 20:46
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