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MC Fruit Stripe
Nov 26, 2002

around and around we go
Hmm, can someone give me some insight on how to ping and access the other side in pfSense? I've got my home network configured fine, everything works as intended on that side. I've also got my lab box configured fine, everything works like I want over there. But I can't ping or resolve anything on the other side.

So if I'm on a home network computer, 192.168.1.x, I can't ping anything on 192.168.11.x (the lab). I can ping pfsense's WAN IP at 192.168.1.150 but not its lab IP of 192.168.11.2.

I have firewalls turned completely off on any computer I'm testing on, and the only firewall rule I have left in pfsense is * * * *, pass anything on any port. But I am still not able to communicate with anything on the lab network. Right now I just access the lab by remoting into that computer (on the home network), which in turn hosts the lab network, but I'd ultimately like to remote directly into a lab VM, without having to go through the box that is hosting it.

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Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer
EDIT: Changed the channel on my router. Maybe that will fix the problem.

EDIT2: nope, that didn't do it. here's my original post:

I'm having some really strange issues with the network in my new place. Charter is my new provider. I think I'm having DNS errors of some sort, as that was the original issue according to my PC. My wireless adapter is a really, really old Linksys WUSB54G USB thing. I realize it's ancient, but it has always worked well enough for me, so why buy a new one, right? The router in my new place is an Ubee, whatever the hell that is. I've tried setting the DNS to the google DNS servers, and that didn't help. Originally, the field after "connection specific DNS suffix" was empty when I ran ipconfig, but I eventually found someone who put eau.wi.charter.com in as the suffix in the adapter settings, so I did as well. That seemed to fix the problem, mostly.

However, now the Internet will randomly disconnect and nothing will load, even though Windows says my computer is connected to the Internet. Here's what ipconfig /all spits out:
code:

C:\Users\Lawnie>ipconfig /all

Windows IP Configuration

   Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : Lawnie-PC
   Primary Dns Suffix  . . . . . . . :
   Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
   IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
   DNS Suffix Search List. . . . . . : eau.wi.charter.com

Wireless LAN adapter Wireless Network Connection 3:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . : eau.wi.charter.com
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : RT2500 USB Wireless LAN Card #2
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-0F-66-76-30-C0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::f90e:dfd3:2d1e:7c95%16(Preferred)
   IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.10(Preferred)
   Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
   Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Sunday, May 27, 2012 9:04:41 PM
   Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Monday, May 28, 2012 12:45:12 AM
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
   DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 369102694
   DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-16-8C-1C-25-00-0F-66-76-30-C0

   DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:4860:4860::8888
                                       2001:4860:4860::8844
                                       24.159.64.23
                                       24.217.201.67
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : F4-6D-04-99-B0-71
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter isatap.{CBCE0F87-DD32-4334-B34A-826E52AF0F3A}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes

Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface:

   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
   IPv6 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 2001:0:4137:9e76:e5:11b6:e74f:89d0(Prefer
red)
   Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::e5:11b6:e74f:89d0%12(Preferred)
   Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : ::
   NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Disabled

Tunnel adapter isatap.{B6C8CAA2-69CC-4955-8FAA-F0EA3108E469}:

   Media State . . . . . . . . . . . : Media disconnected
   Connection-specific DNS Suffix  . :
   Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #2
   Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 00-00-00-00-00-00-00-E0
   DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : No
   Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
And oddly enough, when I run ipconfig /all, the Internet often will begin loading again. I'm not sure why running ipconfig would reset something and let me connect again. Both of my roommates' computers work and my netbook does, as well. I'd also be willing to just buy a new adapter if that will make a difference.

Lawnie fucked around with this message at 06:26 on May 28, 2012

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


I swapped out a PCI wireless adapter with 2dB antennas for a PCIe one with 5dB antennas, and my router says the signal has improved from -68dB to -63dB. Win7 says I have 5 bars now instead of 3-4 bars. I know dB is logarithmic, so the result is about 3x signal strength. Is that right?

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 17:51 on May 28, 2012

himajinga
Mar 19, 2003

Und wenn du lange in einen Schuh blickst, blickt der Schuh auch in dich hinein.
Thanks for all the help in the thread, I bought an RT-N16 and everything is working beautifully, the dead zone is gone and my PC has 5 bars instead of 3 :)

Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride

himajinga posted:

Thanks for all the help in the thread, I bought an RT-N16 and everything is working beautifully, the dead zone is gone and my PC has 5 bars instead of 3 :)

Awesome, glad to hear it's working and that my diagnosis was probably correct. Having experienced lovely wireless AP/routing in the past I am familiar with the symptoms :)

RME
Feb 20, 2012

So I need some advice on what the best setup for my needs are and how I should do them. First, I'd like to say that I have two WRT4GL routers flashed with DD-WRT already. As backstory (and an explanation on my current setup that I want to change), right now these routers are setup on pretty much opposite ends of the house. One of them is just setup as a normal router, with some DD-WRT tweaks to boost the transmitting power a little bit. Now this works fine for coverage in most of the house, except on the second floor on the opposite side of the house, where the signal is definitely a little flakier and weaker. This also happens to be where I have my two consoles setup (A ps3 and 360). Now originally I had an old Xbox 360 that did not have wireless built into it, and I found the built-in wireless chip on the PS3 to be less than adequate (it in fact had a really hard time staying connected or having decent speed at all), which lead me to setup a second router in that room as what I think is a wireless bridge (It has been a while so the specifics are a little fuzzy), but basically it connected to the first source-router as a client and provided an internet connection for both my PS3 and 360 through direct ethernet connections to them. This works alright, but at times it can be a little slow/laggy and every once in a while the consoles will have trouble connecting at all. However, recently I replaced the 360 with a new model (RROD + no more warranty), and this new model DOES have wireless built into it. I've realized this means I can probably change the second router's function to something better now since it's not limited to having to connect to the 360 with and ethernet cable. So I was wondering if I should set the router up as some kind of wireless repeater? If I did that I could move the router to a more central location on the second floor which should be able to have a good connection with the first floor router and provide a strong connection for that floor, but maybe someone with more experience can suggest a better setup and direct me towards directions for how to do this (Like I said both routers are flashed with DD-WRT, v24 I believe).

edit: Like I remember reading something about a repeater bridge and maybe this is a better approach than a repeater?

feld
Feb 11, 2008

Out of nowhere its.....

Feldman

All repeaters effectively halve your bandwidth.

Also, that WRT54GL is getting quite long in the tooth...

RME
Feb 20, 2012

It definitely is, but they're what I have to work with. And halving bandwith sounds pretty unappealing, but is there not a better solution?

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

RME posted:



edit: Like I remember reading something about a repeater bridge and maybe this is a better approach than a repeater?

The repeater-bridge option just means that all the devices will be on the same subnet, which is almost certainly what you want (if you want the xbox and ps3 to show up to other devices on the other router). There's no other difference in performance or anything like that.

Personally, I would try to keep your setup mostly as is. Are you using the stock Linksys antennas? If you upgrade them or get some directional antennas (one on each GL, pointing at each other), it will give you better performance. By setting up one as a repeater, you not only add two wireless devices (the ps3 and xbox), but you immediately halve throughput of the entire network (This happens whenever you add a repeater to a network.).

So, to put it simply; Repeater-bridge would work, and would utilize all existing equipment as-is (ie: zero cost solution)
Upgrading antennas would be better, performance wise, but obviously not zero-cost.

RME posted:

It definitely is, but they're what I have to work with. And halving bandwith sounds pretty unappealing, but is there not a better solution?
Also, this is always the solution to wireless issues:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=bulk+cat6&x=0&y=0

RME
Feb 20, 2012

I don't think anyone would enjoy having a 1000ft Ethernet cable running through their house though. The routers are using stock antennas, how expensive would upgrading those be?

e: I guess it's just frustrating to get such a poor connection and not really be able to arrange for a better one.

RME fucked around with this message at 22:17 on May 30, 2012

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

RME posted:

I don't think anyone would enjoy having a 1000ft Ethernet cable running through their house though. The routers are using stock antennas, how expensive would upgrading those be?

The official linksys upgrade is about $15-$20 shipped on ebay (Search for HGA7T ). Aftermarket ones are cheaper. When that series of router was more popular, you had a bunch more options as far as directional antennas go, but I bet if you got a set of the antennas, shove one on each router, you'd get decent performance.

Push comes to shove, directional antennas are about 30-40 bucks a piece. I don't know how big your house is, but these shouldn't be necessary unless its huge.

Triikan fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 30, 2012

RME
Feb 20, 2012

15-20 dollars isn't bad. It really doesn't even have to be a major upgrade in range either, it's just this room is definitely a little bit on the fringe and experiences problems because of that sometimes.
Although I guess I would need two sets of them huh?

MC Fruit Stripe
Nov 26, 2002

around and around we go
pfsense question, asking again, shot in the dark. If you don't know, please quote this post and call me a name. Last time I'll ask though - honestly it's not incredibly important, but it would be nice to know.

MC Fruit Stripe posted:

Hmm, can someone give me some insight on how to ping and access the other side in pfSense? I've got my home network configured fine, everything works as intended on that side. I've also got my lab box configured fine, everything works like I want over there. But I can't ping or resolve anything on the other side.

So if I'm on a home network computer, 192.168.1.x, I can't ping anything on 192.168.11.x (the lab). I can ping pfsense's WAN IP at 192.168.1.150 but not its lab IP of 192.168.11.2.

I have firewalls turned completely off on any computer I'm testing on, and the only firewall rule I have left in pfsense is * * * *, pass anything on any port. But I am still not able to communicate with anything on the lab network. Right now I just access the lab by remoting into that computer (on the home network), which in turn hosts the lab network, but I'd ultimately like to remote directly into a lab VM, without having to go through the box that is hosting it.

Devian666
Aug 20, 2008

Take some advice Chris.

Fun Shoe
A transparent firewall is a possible option.
http://pfsense.trendchiller.com/transparent_firewall.pdf

MC Fruit Stripe I've reread what you've posted. If you can't successfully route between home and lab perhaps you should investigate setting up a VPN, but this would likely require a VPN server on your side as well. Unless you use a VPN client like greenbow.
http://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/VPN_Capability_IPsec

Devian666 fucked around with this message at 00:30 on May 31, 2012

Wheelchair Stunts
Dec 17, 2005
I am wireless retarded. If I were to have 2 rt-n16s and use them in a wireless bridge, would that or would that not impact performance on my "regular" wireless. If so, would it be halved per connecting client? It's mainly just to get some stuff hooked in a switch on the other end of the apartment to be kosher with the poo poo out front without running a long rear end cable.

Dogen
May 5, 2002

Bury my body down by the highwayside, so that my old evil spirit can get a Greyhound bus and ride
If you have it configured where the bridge RT-N16 is connecting as a client to the RT-N16 that is presumably running your network, it won't have any performance impact on your network. That happens when you are using WDS or the like to receive and then retransmit a wireless signal.

CuddleChunks
Sep 18, 2004

MC Fruit Stripe posted:

pfsense question, asking again, shot in the dark. If you don't know, please quote this post and call me a name. Last time I'll ask though - honestly it's not incredibly important, but it would be nice to know.

Would you please draw us a map of how you have things hooked up? I don't know pfSense so I don't know what you mean by its "lab" side.

I suspect it's working correctly right now - it's not routing between two private IP ranges full of non-routable IP's. Then again, you may have a different physical setup than what I"m picture so who knows. Write it up, draw it in paint or whatever and then maybe we can figure this out.

Golbez
Oct 9, 2002

1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine
Update: Cable guy came out, replaced the base plate of the cable jack, said it was causing static interference. Can now download at 3mbps without any problems.

Still mad at the first idiot. :argh:

Golbez fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jun 1, 2012

Golbez
Oct 9, 2002

1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine
Guess what's not working. :downsgun:

Can anyone decipher modem logs? Is there any possibility whatsoever this is being caused by my computer or router? Or is that for another topic? This is what appears every time it cuts out and comes back.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Wheelchair Stunts
Dec 17, 2005

Golbez posted:

Guess what's not working. :downsgun:

Can anyone decipher modem logs? Is there any possibility whatsoever this is being caused by my computer or router? Or is that for another topic? This is what appears every time it cuts out and comes back.



I just fire those little fucks into Google. Also, if you do enough begging/pleading/threatening/cajoling, you may be able to get their magic network elves, who (allegedly) use this output to improve performance. I think they just "mark as read" that poo poo and gently caress off.

Also, do you have any kind of testing equipment for the cable that delivers your service? Also, sometimes I notice that they upload their own firmware to my modem which disables SNMP and other useful stuff on my modem. You may want to see if they are doing such shenanigans. Unless, of course, they own the modem and you're leasing it in which case ymmv.

Golbez
Oct 9, 2002

1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine

Wheelchair Stunts posted:

I just fire those little fucks into Google. Also, if you do enough begging/pleading/threatening/cajoling, you may be able to get their magic network elves, who (allegedly) use this output to improve performance. I think they just "mark as read" that poo poo and gently caress off.

Also, do you have any kind of testing equipment for the cable that delivers your service? Also, sometimes I notice that they upload their own firmware to my modem which disables SNMP and other useful stuff on my modem. You may want to see if they are doing such shenanigans. Unless, of course, they own the modem and you're leasing it in which case ymmv.

I have, and while I haven't found exactly the same logs, I have found people with similar issues and similar log entries. It's the cable company's modem.

I'm just concerned it's being caused by my computer, because the problems only seem to happen when this computer is downloading, not when any other computer on the network is. Yet it's the modem that's crapping out, and not anything on my computer. Also, this problem is so random that it could just not be happening when I try on other computers.

SeductiveReasoning
Nov 2, 2005

382 BC - 301 BC
What's the go to choice for PCI/e wireless adapters these days? Is Newegg's in-house Rosewill brand any good or should I stick to the name brands?

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Monopthalmus posted:

What's the go to choice for PCI/e wireless adapters these days? Is Newegg's in-house Rosewill brand any good or should I stick to the name brands?
I got an Encore brand 802.11n PCIe adapter from Newegg and its 5dB antennas have been as good as advertised.

Wheelchair Stunts
Dec 17, 2005

Golbez posted:

I have, and while I haven't found exactly the same logs, I have found people with similar issues and similar log entries. It's the cable company's modem.

I'm just concerned it's being caused by my computer, because the problems only seem to happen when this computer is downloading, not when any other computer on the network is. Yet it's the modem that's crapping out, and not anything on my computer. Also, this problem is so random that it could just not be happening when I try on other computers.

You might want to see if you can get some private time with just a laptop or whatever and the modem. Fire up Wireshark and I guess try either high throughput / high connection count or both and see what blows it up. I'm no Networkologist, so hopefully someone can embellish/correct upon this and we can get your poo poo figured out.

As for me, another wireless bridge question. (Still waiting for my other unit to ship.) Is there any way to maintain vlan ports on the switch attached to either side of the bridge?

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Your VLAN tags get stripped or ignored if you just plug trunks into bridges without any real configuration, but you can do it if you have bridges that support multiple SSIDs and trunking/VLANs. You set up one subinterface and SSID per VLAN, plug them in, all your traffic is trunked.

Femur
Jan 10, 2004
I REALLY NEED TO SHUT THE FUCK UP
I am converting an old pc into a media server, but it needs to be in the closet basically. What is the best option for wi-fi? Would one of these do? I also have an old Buffalo WHR-HP G54 laying around if making a bridge is a better option? Never done that through, so would just prefer fast and easy method.

I am on a E2000

Femur fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jun 2, 2012

Golbez
Oct 9, 2002

1 2 3!
If you want to take a shot at me get in line, line
1 2 3!
Baby, I've had all my shots and I'm fine
Got my DOCSIS 2 modem swapped for a DOCSIS 3. So far, so good. Still annoyed that "huh maybe the modem is to blame" wasn't their first instinct.

Thanks for the tips.

Bondii
May 31, 2003
King of The Cider Farm
I just moved into a new apartment and learned that the router is on a different floor from my room. My Mac Pro doesn't have a wireless card in it. What are my best options for solving this? I'd rather not run a 100 foot cable through the house.

When I went into Radioshack they said they only had Wireless adapters for PCs and that most USB adapters that claim to work for Mac, don't. Is this true?

I also have an extra wireless router. Would it be able to gain signal from the wireless router downstairs? Could I set it up near my computer and run an Ethernet cable to the Mac Pro tower? Or do they not work like that?

Naffer
Oct 26, 2004

Not a good chemist

Bondii posted:

I also have an extra wireless router. Would it be able to gain signal from the wireless router downstairs? Could I set it up near my computer and run an Ethernet cable to the Mac Pro tower? Or do they not work like that?

You should be able to set up this extra router in wireless bridge mode where you'd plug your mac into it and have it join your existing wireless network.

Bondii
May 31, 2003
King of The Cider Farm

Naffer posted:

You should be able to set up this extra router in wireless bridge mode where you'd plug your mac into it and have it join your existing wireless network.

I connected my wireless router (Netgear model WNR1000v3 I believe) to the Mac Pro through an Ethernet cord. Now in the System Settings>Network section on the Mac, the "Ethernet 1" port is listed as "Connected." Yet when I try to load any sites, I have no success.

How do I set this up?

Wheelchair Stunts
Dec 17, 2005

Jonny 290 posted:

Your VLAN tags get stripped or ignored if you just plug trunks into bridges without any real configuration, but you can do it if you have bridges that support multiple SSIDs and trunking/VLANs. You set up one subinterface and SSID per VLAN, plug them in, all your traffic is trunked.

Okay, that makes sense and is aligned with what I thought a bridge was. Would I be wanting to dedicate a directional antenna for each side of the bridge or is that just pedantry? It's near-los down a hallway for about 30 feet.

redstormpopcorn
Jun 10, 2007
Aurora Master
I've been stashing funds for a bit to pull the trigger on an RT-N66U, but ASUS just announced the RT-AC66U; looks like the exact same router with an 802.11ac radio. Didn't see N back-compatibility mentioned, so maybe I'll stick with the N66U until more AC hardware comes out.

Ninja Rope
Oct 22, 2005

Wee.
What was that highly recommended cable modem? I want to try ordering a replacement from Amazon to see if it fixes my disconnection while downloading problem. Unless maybe you think I should just rent one from Comcast and make it their problem?

Star War Sex Parrot
Oct 2, 2003

Motorola SB6120/SB6121

Binary Badger
Oct 11, 2005

Trolling Link for a decade


Probably more like the SB6121, it's a smidge faster than the SurfBoard EXtreme 6120. Also it's IP v6 ready if you're at that level.

Amazon link here.

Be advised that you may only enjoy extra speed if your cable company supports DOCSIS 3.0 and will allow this modem to employ it.

Here's something from one of the reviews on Amazon that might help you if you're trying to hook this up to a Comcast line:

some guy on Amazon posted:

Out of nowhere, I was having excruciatingly slow internet speed on Comcast. The Comcast tech advised that my Motorola SB 4100 was at the "end of life" and that I should upgrade. Skeptical, I purchased this modem which is a DOCSIS 3.0 (and backwards compatible) modem. It worked. I went from a 2mbps download speed to over 17mbps. What a difference.

There was one installation glitch that you need to be aware of. When you hook up the modem (connect the coax cable, connect the ethernet cable, and plug it in, that's it), and then try to get online, it will direct you to a Comcast self-activation screen (no other site is available). After entering my account number and phone number and hitting the "next" button, I got a blank screen, and nothing happens.

So I called Comcast and they said that usually happens if you are doing an upgrade; it mostly works only for a new service connection. However, it is a simple matter to give the tech your MAC address and the serial number. After about 5 minutes, while he stayed on the line, it came alive, no problem.

BUT, here's the thing: the serial number they need is the CUSTOMER serial number. This is only found on the bottom of the Motorola box the modem came in. This is different from the "S/N" serial number that is on the label that is on the instruction sheet and on the bottom of the modem itself. The customer S/N has letters in it; the regular S/N has only numbers in it and is too long. My first Comcast tech didn't know that and it took a day to sort it out.

Other than that, it works well with my iMac and Apple Airport Extreme Base wireless router. Enjoy

Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Jun 5, 2012

Triikan
Feb 23, 2007
Most Loved

Binary Badger posted:

Probably more like the SB6121, it's a smidge faster than the SurfBoard EXtreme 6120.

Citation? I only ask because the last number in Motorola devices have always been revisions, with no meaningful spec changes.

Star War Sex Parrot
Oct 2, 2003

Yeah I haven't heard that either. I scoured the spec sheets when buying my modem and couldn't find any published differences between the SB6120 and SB6121. I bought the 21 because they were the same price at the time, but I'm still not sure there's any difference.

I wouldn't be surprised if I ended up with a worse version, since identically-spec'd tech gadgets with minor casing revisions are usually just done to mask cost-cutting.

Binary Badger
Oct 11, 2005

Trolling Link for a decade


Triikan posted:

Citation? I only ask because the last number in Motorola devices have always been revisions, with no meaningful spec changes.

Sorry, I was going by the Amazon reviews, Amazon says the SB6120 tops out at 150 Mbps, the 6121 at 160 Mbps, but according to the PDF spec sheets from Motorola, the specs are identical except the 6121 is slightly more compact. Some of the Amazon reviews say it runs hotter because of this.

There's only this on the 6121 spec sheet:

Motorola posted:

Updated SB6120 with sleeker enclosure and the following features:

• Power Saving Energy Conservation Switch allows user to disable the modem when not in use (optional feature)

• Internal Low Pass Filter to eliminate MoCA signal overload

The switch sounds useless, why not just unplug it.. the other feature as far as I can tell only comes into play if you have lots of devices on the same cable, like multiple DVRs and box sets

Edit: Bet they made it smaller because they would save .05445378 cents per unit by switching to a smaller case.

Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jun 5, 2012

YO MAMA HEAD
Sep 11, 2007

What are the possibilities of hooking up a networked hard drive to the 360's USB port and being able to just transfer files to it over Ethernet? I don't currently have a NAS hard drive, so I'd be looking for a cheap enclosure.

Our current setup is a confusing double-router thing to accomodate for the Airport Express's lack of local Ethernet ports.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

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Star War Sex Parrot
Oct 2, 2003

Most consumer NAS drives have USB ports for direct access.

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