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I'd like to get one of those bladed head replacements for my string trimmer. I have an electric though, and the ones I've seen say they'll work with most gas trimmers. Is it ok to use these with an electric, or is there a model that is?
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May 12, 2012 08:05
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gwrtheyrn posted:Slot goes on both sides. Would there be a more optimal non-fixed tool? I mean I'd love to be able to have things like a tablesaw, bandsaw, etc, but as it is I really do need something that I can store away much like a dremel. Your best bet would probably be a hand saw. Clamp the pipe vertically or at a 45 degree angle and cut straight down. Alternately, you could build a jig and use a router.
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May 12, 2012 08:16
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I have been using a Dremel Saw Max for cutting plastic. Fiber optics cable management(runway). You still get sprayed with plastic dust the size of fine sand but it cuts really nice.You can get a dust management thing so you can attach a vacuum though. No idea how well that works. Used it(the saw) quite a bit at this point. It has been good to me.
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May 12, 2012 13:58
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stubblyhead posted:I'd like to get one of those bladed head replacements for my string trimmer. I have an electric though, and the ones I've seen say they'll work with most gas trimmers. Is it ok to use these with an electric, or is there a model that is? I used a Grass Gator in a Ryobi electric. It worked fine until it stripped the square drive in the motor section of the ez-link coupling. That was quite annoying to replace. The motor had the torque for it, and it didn't seem to overheat, but the drive shaft wasn't up to it. The trimmer head itself had been mounted on a Troy-bilt gas trimmer that I was using at the same time with a tiller attachment.
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May 12, 2012 23:55
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stubblyhead posted:I'd like to get one of those bladed head replacements for my string trimmer. I have an electric though, and the ones I've seen say they'll work with most gas trimmers. Is it ok to use these with an electric, or is there a model that is? I recommend something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=10946282&kw=trimmer+head&origkw=Trimmer+head&searchId=55743962514 If you aren't doing small trees or other bush type stuff that might require a blade, this is your best bet. It doesn't require the same kind of power that the solid blade ones do and if you find that you are underpowered you can just remove one of the sets of string and it should make it work, even if your electric is underpowered. The quick change is so much nicer then fighting the stupid normal stringers heads. Just cut and toss a few sets of replacements in your back pocket and the process takes about 5 seconds to swap out.
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May 14, 2012 16:14
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How asmall of a cordless drill do you think can be purchased, and relied upon for light to medium-load IT-related work? I'm not expecting to drill cross-threaded screws out or something, but I would like a palm-sized drill for quick philips and mini-phillips torx work, and maybe even small-diamter drilling. I don't even know if they make drills the size I'm wanting, I am wanting to make a small "bugout bag" for IT work, that I can grab up at a moment's notice, and not have to haul around a standard-sized drill, or one of those obnoxious rechargeable cylinder drills that're 20" long.
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May 14, 2012 23:14
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Anubis posted:I recommend something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=10946282&kw=trimmer+head&origkw=Trimmer+head&searchId=55743962514 I actually saw one of these at the store this weekend, I'll take a closer look next time I'm in. I figured it was just a question of the electrics not being quite robust enough for the blades. coyo7e posted:How asmall of a cordless drill do you think can be purchased, and relied upon for light to medium-load IT-related work? I'm not expecting to drill cross-threaded screws out or something, but I would like a palm-sized drill for quick philips and mini-phillips torx work, and maybe even small-diamter drilling. In my former life aboard ship the electronics tech had a rechargeable screwdriver maybe 8-10", it even had a pivot point on the business end. I don't recall the brand though, Black and Decker maybe? e: This one is about 12". They have a smaller one (8.5"), but it uses AAs. stubblyhead fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 14, 2012 |
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May 14, 2012 23:22
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Xerox and Canon techs use small rechargable drivers all the time but I never paid attention to what brands.
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May 14, 2012 23:22
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Can anybody recommend a good, (hopefully) cheap spraygun? I have a 20 gal. compressor to use with it. I hope to be spraying acrylic, lacquer, and poly. For things planned right now, I'll be spraying 4 sq.ft. at a time (both sides of something ~2'x~1') But I suppose I'd like to have the ability to spray a bit larger than that. I understand that cheap sprayguns will splatter paint and make stuff look awful. But I also see that proper thinning and getting a good setup on your gun will help that a lot. And if I do buy one, there will be much testing done before I use it on an actual piece I care about. Trouble is, I've never used a spraygun before, but seeing as I'll be painting and finishing a good number of things in the future, it seems like a good investment to me. I'd also really like to be able to get a wider variety of colors than stuff that comes in rattlecans. Also, any advice on setting up and using a spraygun would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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May 14, 2012 23:42
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I'm tempted to respond to your question with that sign about "good service, fast service, or cheap service, pick any two." There aren't really good and cheap sprayguns, the cheap ones spatter and drip and poo poo, and the good ones aren't cheap. 
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May 14, 2012 23:50
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coyo7e posted:I'm tempted to respond to your question with that sign about "good service, fast service, or cheap service, pick any two." There aren't really good and cheap sprayguns, the cheap ones spatter and drip and poo poo, and the good ones aren't cheap. I figured it was worth a shot. Maybe somebody knew/knows about a gem of a cheap spraygun, under the radar or something. I've had good luck using rattlecan so far. I can stick with that if good spraycans are out of my price range.
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May 15, 2012 00:58
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Rotten Cookies posted:I figured it was worth a shot. Maybe somebody knew/knows about a gem of a cheap spraygun, under the radar or something. Like was already mentioned, unless you're looking on ebay or the newspaper, "Cheap Spraygun" usually means both definitions of the word, and even then, most people with good sprayguns know how much they go for used, and rarely cheap. Best chance to get one of those mythical creatures is a yard sale or an auction where a widow sells off her husband's stuff after he croaked. That's how my uncle managed to get a $300 unit for $25, and a $1200 compressor for $100. I don't know how many cheap Canadian Tire sprayers I've seen in yard sales, and they are all garbage unless you're only worried about painting the side of a barn that nobody will see. I borrowed my neighbor's Mastercraft sprayer and it wasn't even up to the task of coating my deck without wasting 3/4 of the stain.
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May 15, 2012 16:37
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coyo7e posted:How asmall of a cordless drill do you think can be purchased, and relied upon for light to medium-load IT-related work? I'm not expecting to drill cross-threaded screws out or something, but I would like a palm-sized drill for quick philips and mini-phillips torx work, and maybe even small-diamter drilling. Couple of choices: I have the previous version of this: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gsr-3.6-v-li-mx2drive-professional-screwdriver-2-x-1.3-ah-in-plastic-box-p14078 Cute little machine. Fits in a pocket and is surprisingly strong. The professional version of the green Bosch IXO (Euro Bosch). This has a more advanced gear (my version doesn't) and two batteries while the IXO is all integrated. This is what suits you best though: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-df010dse-7.2v-pencil-drill-driver-2-x-1.0-ah-li-ion-batteries-p6100 I would opt for a professional grade version instead of a cheap B&D or Skil. Get a version with batteries you can remove so you can have one charged at all times. Also get some quality bits. Get some long ones for tricky screws on the motherboard and the likes.
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May 18, 2012 08:31
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Asked in the AI tools thread but didn't get any replies so I'll try here. I'm looking for a refrigeration pump (R134A) that can handle doing 200-300 pounds at a time. We're using Promax RG6000 pumps right now and they last 6 months max with regular use. If used on an install we're lucky to have half of them return working. They just aren't made for the volume we work with and at $600 a pop it's expensive, would rather spend more up front and buy a good one.
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May 18, 2012 18:15
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So last night I was contemplating building a drill press for my Dremel to get more use from it and then 30 minutes later an add on Craigslist popped up on my phone for a Dremel drill press. Odd coincidence so I emailed the guy and we arranged to meet today. At the last minute he tells me has more stuff and will sell it all for $45. Here is what I came away with: From left to right, a Sears Dremel drill press, magnetic base for a dial indicator, and a plunge mechanism from a router.  A Dremel router table.  Left to right: A corner chisel, some handles to who knows what, and the round thing actually goes with the router plunger.  Apparently a tenant left all this stuff behind and he's just selling it. He also has a scroll saw and will email pics and a price later. Incidentally, here is the home built Dremel press, pretty neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTq9itY2vI
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May 25, 2012 04:51
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Check out the new Milwaukee M18 FUEL line up. If Milwaukee M18 wasn't already the segment leader, the fuel lineup will catapult them to the front. I just regret having purchased the plain M18 drill-driver before they integrated brushless motors.
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May 27, 2012 00:27
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Why exactly? It doesn't look revolutionary if I understand the market speak correctly. All has been done before by other brands and several brands offer large battery packs, brushless motors, electronics for constant speed during variable load and circuits that protect battery and motor from overload. Not sure who was first but I'll wager the Festool T 15+3 was among the first. Electronic clutch as well. Downside is the price of course. Another option that I know of that implement many if not all of the features is the Metabo SB 18 LTX Impuls. Been out a few years and it's a beast. Hitachi, Bosch and Makita have or are coming out with brushless models. Think Panasonic have had some for a couple of years. All that said, I'm sure the Milwaukee models are very nice. It's a quality brand and new models are usually good upgrades. Smaller, lighter, stronger and all that.
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May 27, 2012 17:11
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I love Craigslist. I've been scraping the local CL looking for a drill press and here is what I got today:   A 1950's craftsman drill press in PERFECT condition except that the motor won't so much as make a sound. No matter, the seller threw in a perfectly functional 1/2 hp craftsman motor running at the same rpm. And a box with 47 drill bits. All told, $150. Any ideas how to get the belt pulley off the old motor? I've loosened the set screws but it doesn't want to budge. I think I'll just shoot it with wd-40 and gently kind of pry at it. Any other/better ideas? Now I just need to sell the drill press I bought yesterday, before this beauty was posted.
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Jun 8, 2012 01:20
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Uncle Enzo posted:I love Craigslist. I've been scraping the local CL looking for a drill press and here is what I got today: A pulley puller set.
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Jun 8, 2012 07:42
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I've been watching craigslist for a drill press and it's ridiculous how many are posted and how fast they sell. They go in hours.
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Jun 8, 2012 08:04
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So I think that I'm going to pull the trigger on a dovetail jig setup. Porter Cable seems to be the best "bang for your buck" as it appears to be the only sub-$500 unit that isn't one of those sheet metal jobs that every half-assed company re-brands as their own. But I've run into a problem. There are two nearly identical units, and all I'm really looking for is a jig that will let me make 1/2 blind and through dovetails. I'm not that familiar with the additional features mentioned in the 4216 model, and am wondering if I'm ever going to use them. Porter Cable 4216 12'' Deluxe Dovetail Jig Combo-Kit Porter Cable 4216 12'' Deluxe Dovetail Jig Combo-Kit I'm not asking you guys to do my homework for me, but if any of you have dovetail experience and notice something that I might need in the more expensive one, then feel free to let me know. I'm going to be trying to read up on the two, and google the different features of each. Edit: From what I can gather, the only difference between them is the inclusion of the mini-dovetail jig and related bits. Blistex fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 13:26
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Lord Gaga posted:A pulley puller set. It's worth noting that this (or at least a generic 3 ton puller) can be rented at Autozone for free (with a refundable CC deposit).
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Jun 8, 2012 15:34
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I'm not by any means an expert but I was looking at getting the same Porter Cable system as I'd also gathered that it was the best bang for your buck option. The extra template is the only difference between the two kits. You'd only need it to make smaller dovetails. That said, it's about half as expensive to get it in the kit instead of picking up the template later. If you might want it at some point it'd be worth getting now.
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Jun 8, 2012 15:43
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kafkasgoldfish posted:It's worth noting that this (or at least a generic 3 ton puller) can be rented at Autozone for free (with a refundable CC deposit). Thanks for this. I went to my local Autozone, got a AC clutch pulley puller, and got the pulley off in 10 minutes. I had to improvise a bit since the shaft of the puller was too big to fit into the center of the pulley, but I was able to put some pieces of bar stock in there and get it off. Thanks! So when you're putting a new pulley onto a motor shaft, you just make sure all the surfaces are clean and smooth and kind of tap it on, right? Edit: The motor shaft I'm installing this pulley on has a flat side. Should I try and make the set screws contact the flat side so they'll hold on harder? Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 18:43
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Blistex posted:So I think that I'm going to pull the trigger on a dovetail jig setup. Porter Cable seems to be the best "bang for your buck" as it appears to be the only sub-$500 unit that isn't one of those sheet metal jobs that every half-assed company re-brands as their own. Incra just came out with a iBox box joint kit that fits into your miter for your table saw or router table. I don't know if you can use it for dovetails, but their fence systems allow for that - http://incra.com/product_rtf_ibox.html
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Jun 8, 2012 18:49
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/\/\ I already made something similar with some scrap plywood. It's a nice setup, but only does box joints.powderific posted:I'm not by any means an expert but I was looking at getting the same Porter Cable system as I'd also gathered that it was the best bang for your buck option. The extra template is the only difference between the two kits. You'd only need it to make smaller dovetails. That said, it's about half as expensive to get it in the kit instead of picking up the template later. If you might want it at some point it'd be worth getting now. I was thinking the same, but then I looked and can't imagine ever wanting to make dovetails that small.
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Jun 9, 2012 03:07
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Uncle Enzo posted:
If you have an interference fit (meaning that it's meant to be a slightly undersized hole, giving you a friction fit between the pulley and shaft) generally you use a press, giving smooth pressure instead of the jolts of a hammer. If it's not supposed to be an interference fit, and is just snug, yeah, tap it on. Honestly probably more pulleys and bearings have been hammered on than you want to realize. quote:Edit: The motor shaft I'm installing this pulley on has a flat side. Should I try and make the set screws contact the flat side so they'll hold on harder? Yup, you got it exactly.
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Jun 9, 2012 12:47
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So I've gone to put the pulley on the new motor and I have a problem: It's too loose. Instead of fitting very tightly like it did on the old motor, it fits closely but not tightly. It could fall right off, it's so loose. I measured the motor shank diameters with my calipers and they're different. Old motor: .503" New motor: .498" It's only a matter of 5 thousandths of an inch, but it's the difference between a very very tight/interference fit and falling-off loose. Right now the set screws are all that hold the pulley on, and there's no way they're meant to stand up to a sustained 1/2 hp load. I'm a little mystified as to what I should do. Can I make the fit tighter somehow? Should I try and dig up a different pulley with a very slightly smaller inside diameter? Are these shaft diameters deliberately different or just machining differences?
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Jun 9, 2012 20:48
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+/-.003" isn't that bad for something like that. You'd be amazed at how strong set screws can be.
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Jun 10, 2012 00:37
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Sounds like the place for a few wraps of aluminium foil.
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Jun 10, 2012 04:58
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Does anyone have any opinions about Echo consumer grade equipment? I know that their commercial grade equipment is pretty much amazing, but I'm looking for a new weed trimmer and I noticed the ones they sell at Home Depot are pretty reasonably priced. I'm sick of buying underpowered cruddy weed trimmers for $70-100 from Walmart.
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Jun 11, 2012 00:36
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Dracon Wolf posted:Does anyone have any opinions about Echo consumer grade equipment? I know that their commercial grade equipment is pretty much amazing, but I'm looking for a new weed trimmer and I noticed the ones they sell at Home Depot are pretty reasonably priced. I'm sick of buying underpowered cruddy weed trimmers for $70-100 from Walmart. The Echo leaf blower I bought from Depot has been doing very well with daily use for over a year. I have never used their line trimmers but I assume they're as well made.
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Jun 11, 2012 03:15
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Uncle Enzo posted:I love Craigslist. I've been scraping the local CL looking for a drill press and here is what I got today: Minor bit of spergin' here but actually from the late 30s to early 40s, not the '50s. (The motor however, is.) The models from the '50s look like this:  How do I know? I've been looking for a '50s floor model for months now. That guy who said that drill presses move pretty quickly on CL was right, some of these seem to disappear almost as soon as they were posted. I've already seen two of the models that I wanted go. Oh well, someday it will be mine...
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Jun 11, 2012 04:39
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Dracon Wolf posted:Does anyone have any opinions about Echo consumer grade equipment? I know that their commercial grade equipment is pretty much amazing, but I'm looking for a new weed trimmer and I noticed the ones they sell at Home Depot are pretty reasonably priced. I'm sick of buying underpowered cruddy weed trimmers for $70-100 from Walmart.
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Jun 11, 2012 15:57
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We got an echo leaf blower from the PO with this house we bought when I was 8. I am now 23 and we use it decently often. I don't recall changing the spark plug.
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Jun 12, 2012 02:55
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I'm looking for a specific ratchet wrench, and hopefully someone here can help me find it, if it exists. I use wrenches like these every day at work, http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100007347/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=husky+ratchet+wrench&storeId=10051 What I would love to have is a single wrench, with one end being 7/16ths and the other being 1/2in. These are really the only two sizes I need, and having them be combined in the same tool would be awesome. Anyone know if such a wrench exists?
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Jun 16, 2012 00:39
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themachine posted:I'm looking for a specific ratchet wrench, and hopefully someone here can help me find it, if it exists. Heres one you can buy locally or online prob much cheaper: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...4110944&ci_sku=
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Jun 16, 2012 02:36
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Sears would have a Craftsman or GearWrench brand. Depending on quality needed, Stanley probably has one in their Proto or Blackhawk line.
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Jun 17, 2012 00:18
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Iskariot posted:Why exactly? It doesn't look revolutionary if I understand the market speak correctly. All has been done before by other brands and several brands offer large battery packs, brushless motors, electronics for constant speed during variable load and circuits that protect battery and motor from overload. I usually don't even count festool due to their tools being so drat expensive. Festool obviously makes the *best* miter saw around, but if anyone asked, I wouldn't say Festool. Now as for Metabo, I actually hadn't heard of them previously. Seems like a good company, although still a good deal more expensive that Milwaukee, which I had placed in the "prosumer" category. I mean back when I bought my milwaukee drill + driver + 2 battery combo, it was only 200 bucks. The cheapest I can seem to find this metabo drill is ~$300 But you're right, Makita is certainly neck and neck with Milwaukee. I just can't believe how short the battery life was on the white generation of not so long ago.
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Jun 18, 2012 06:01
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Sometimes it's the little things that make all the difference... I bought a set of Harbor Freight 12" files to use in my woodworking shop. Not only are they larger than my previous files but they cut better, faster and the size makes them easier to use. At $6.32 w/ a 20% off coupon, I'm going to buy another set: one for wood, one for metal.
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Jun 20, 2012 04:40
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