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Aniki posted:I've been doing a lot of research Numbers might have changed recently, check your variables. http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2012/06/2012-13-audi-lease-rates-june-2012/ http://www.ridewithg.com/calculator/index.html e: your BMW numbers are suspiciously low Mandalay fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 02:35
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Aniki posted:I've been doing a lot of research and I feel like I am starting to get a grasp of it, but it is still a new process for me. I do know that you can multiply the lease rates by 2400 to get the APR, so the BWM works out to 3.72% and the Audi, assuming that it is meant to be 0.0016, would be 3.84%. You could get a Regal GS for about the same per month as the BMW. Why do you hate America?
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Jun 13, 2012 02:45
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Throatwarbler posted:You could get a Regal GS for about the same per month as the BMW. Why do you hate America?
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Jun 13, 2012 03:06
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Appreciated the earlier tips about buying a family-hauling appliance. Will be stopping by a mazda shop to see how we fit in the 5, and trying the dodge suggested as well. Any other "I just need a third row, don't want to pay for a driving experience" sorts of rides I should be considering, probably used, and ideally under 20k. The jeep cost me another 50$ today. As I understand it, the e-break caught on something and exploded, which messed up the ABS sensors, and caused many unpleasant grindy draggy noises. To fix would be 800-1300$ and involve a scrapyard axle, since they don't make the parts anymore. For 50$ they tore the emergency break off, and put some black tape over the ABS warning light (not really). Said "Don't park on hills". So, car is officially a jalopy now I think. But it still runs pretty good, and the interior is still actually kinda nice, considering how many toddlers and how much lumber has been in it. Is there a time of year to be shopping for cars? I figure I'm still in no real hurry, and this thing will probably get groceries and not kill me for another 6 months or a year.
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Jun 13, 2012 03:08
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Don Lapre posted:The regal is built in Canada. North America? 
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Jun 13, 2012 03:50
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Slo-Tek posted:
Is it legal to drive a car with a non-functional emergency brake? edit: checking the law it seems to be. It's required at the time of manufacture but that's it. Still, I'd get that fixed ASAP. If your car rolls into another car, your insurance may not cover it.
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Jun 13, 2012 17:56
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The "emergency brake" on most cars these days is actually called the "parking brake" because it is not capable of stopping the car in any kind of adequate way. Yes, it's better than nothing in an emergency, but not much better. That said, I would never drive a car lacking one. And it sounds like your ABS is inactive, too. It seems to me that the liability issue could be huge - if you knowingly park the car lacking a parking brake on a slope and it runs away and hurts someone you could maybe go to jail. Or if the brakes fail while you're driving (which seems possible given the POS status of the car) you could die or kill someone. And go to jail. I am not a lawyer but that's my guess.
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Jun 13, 2012 18:05
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Mandalay posted:Numbers might have changed recently, check your variables. I did calculate everything using the Edmund's lease calculators, but it's possible I input the wrong data. The BMW numbers were consistent with the informal lease offer that they gave me for a base 2012.5 328i and I decided yesterday that I would have wanted the premium package and possibly the sports package, which closed the gap between BMW and Audi. I ended up leasing a 2013 A4 Quattro Premium. I felt that the interior was nicer, it was a more comfortable car, and it is still really nice to drive. I think it ended up being a 3-year lease at $460 per month with Audi care and 12k per year and $1,500 down. I probably should have pushed for a better deal, but I was able to get the numbers into a range that I was comfortable with and I think that I just wanted the car buying process to be over. The A4 is an exceptionally nice car and I've been very happy with it so far. I'm slowly recovering from the research and sales process and the excitement of a new car is starting to seep in. On an unrelated note, I talked a banker yesterday about a car loan and her name was Xanadu. Yes, Xanadu like the 1980 rollerskating rock opera. How the hell does that happen?
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Jun 13, 2012 18:57
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Aniki posted:On an unrelated note, I talked a banker yesterday about a car loan and her name was Xanadu. Yes, Xanadu like the 1980 rollerskating rock opera. How the hell does that happen? In Xanadu did Kubla Khan a stately pleasure dome decree! Samuel Taylor Coleridge posted:In Xanadu did Kubla Khan Xanadu is a real place and has been since the year 1256. I hadn't even heard of this rollerskate rock opera thing. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jun 13, 2012 |
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Jun 13, 2012 19:06
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Throatwarbler posted:You could get a Regal GS for about the same per month as the BMW. Why do you hate America? For whatever reason I've never been interested in American cars and while Buick does seem to be improving, they still have the connotation of being an old person's car out here. I know that shouldn't factor into the decision, but it is hard for me to get excited about buying a Buick even if they produce a comparable car to a A4 or 328i and I wanted something that I could be excited about. I also took 6-years of German between high school and college, so I've wanted a German car for a long time now
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Jun 13, 2012 19:08
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Leperflesh posted:In Xanadu did Kubla Khan a stately pleasure dome decree! When I walked into the office, I looked at her wall and saw a award printed out with the name Xanadu. I figured she was just be ironic or silly, so I said that I'm not going to ask about the award on her wall, then I looked at her name tag and saw that her name actually was Xanadu. I asked her if she was named after the movie and she was. I then made fun of the movie for about two minutes. To be fair, the movie was awful. This is a video for an unrelated song, but it uses footage from Xanadu and does a better job of showing how ridiculous the film was. I've always been interested in Mongolia, so I'll need to read up on the real Xanadu.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:23
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Yeah I already corrected my post but it wasn't quite a thousand years, more like about 750. Still, it is an odd name to give someone, especially if her parents were referring to the film rather than the original place.
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Jun 13, 2012 19:28
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I'm looking for a recommendation for a used car. I live in Australia, and my budget is very low. Proposed Budget: Up to $5,000 Body Style: Station wagon, hatchback, or van. How will you be using the car?: Mostly short trips, sometimes with lots of lightish stuff inside (homebrew vats, computer parts, stuff like that). A Holden sedan is big enbough for that part, or a Camry or something. Once a week, it will travel roughly 100km in a single day going across the city via freeways. It must seat 4 adults on that trip. Comfort isn't a huge issue, but most of my friends are tall, so tiny cars are right out. A Corolla is fine for that part. Edit: Once or twice a year, it will go 500kms or so on a short roadtrip. If it turns out not reliable for roadtrips, no big deal, we'll use someone else's car. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: No. Power steering is a must. Aircon is a bonus. Everything else being manual would be fine. CD player nice but not necessary, I can build my own stereo/ipod/whatever setup. Edit: gently caress, my girlfriend informs me she can't drive a manual, so auto transmission is a must too. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style): Reliability, cost of maintenance, running costs. I can do basic maintenance myself, and while I'd be happy to say I know jack poo poo about cars, I did once change a head gasket, mostly because I'm a loving master at following instruction manuals. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot: Melbourne, Australia. Cars I've looked at: Early 2000s Corolla wagon. Late 90s / Early 2000s Mitsubishi Magna wagon (best choice, I think). Mitsubishi 380 (too pricey, but I really like it). Early 2000s Camry. Various vans (I kind of like vans, but if I got a van it would need to have a comfortable rear seat). I don't want another holden, all my cars have been shitbox holdens, and they're awful. I don't expect to get much for the price, but stuff like scratches and dents bothers me not at all. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jun 14, 2012 |
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Jun 14, 2012 14:49
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AlphaDog posted:I'm looking for a recommendation for a used car. I live in Australia, and my budget is very low. Did you get the Honda accord wagon over there?
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Jun 14, 2012 17:22
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CornHolio posted:Is it legal to drive a car with a non-functional emergency brake? Just to throw this in, as someone who just studied the driver's manual for the learner's permit test, it is illegal to drive in Massachusetts without a parking brake. Presumably other states/countries will vary. In any case it's probably not safe.
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Jun 14, 2012 22:47
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Hello awesome thread! So I have a bit of a choice on my hands. I currently drive a 2001 Cavalier with 140,000 miles on it. It runs okay, but I find myself taking it to the shop quite often and it's showing its age. My grandmother who gave up driving last year is going to sell her 2004 Ford Taurus with 55,000 miles on it for 4,000. She said that if I wanted it, I could have first chance at it. So here's the rest of the situation. I have 7 months left of grad school and then will most likely get a job paying around 50k/year. Right now I have approximately 40k in student loans to pay back once I'm finished. I could give her monthly payments without any issues if I decide to buy the car right now. My concerns are the following. 1. About how long will this car last me if I were to buy it? 2. Could I get anything for trading in my Cav? 3. Will I have enough money to buy a more....stylish car immediately after grad school if I decide to hang onto the Cav for another year? Thanks!
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Jun 15, 2012 01:20
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marsisol posted:So I have a bit of a choice on my hands. I currently drive a 2001 Cavalier with 140,000 miles on it. God, I'm sorry. A 3rd gen J body GM car, ugh. quote:My concerns are the following. Depends on the condition, where you live, how much you drive it, and whether you will do the regular maintenance. The Ford is also not a very great car. The 2004 LX sedan got 17/24 MPG, had low-grade interior (although so was your cavalier), had a 3L V6 that that only made 155 HP, and has a pretty lovely resale value. That said, it's a Ford, they sold bajillions of these cars, so service and parts are relatively cheap. Here are the reliability ratings from Edmunds. Overall not too bad and the issues they list are all pretty cheap to fix (nothing over $400). If you scroll down, though, you'll see that the ratings improved markedly in 2005, so an '04 I'd expect to be worth a bit less in the long run even at equivalent miles. That's all assuming it's the LX sedan, so it varies a bit depending on model. $4k seems to be reasonable for that price. I think unless it's a lemon it should do 150k miles, properly taken care of, and could easily do over 200k although not totally guaranteed. If you live where roads are salted and drive it all winter then its longevity is measured in years and exposure more than miles driven. quote:2. Could I get anything for trading in my Cav? I don't see how your gramma is going to pay you for trade-ins, but I think what you mean is, would it be better to trade it in at a dealer and buy a car from them isntead? In which case I'd say no. Your Cav is a lowest-tier cheapo POS car. Even in excellent body condition it's not worth a ton in trade-in, and you will pay more for a car from a dealer than for the same car private-party (on average). If it runs it's worth at least $1k, if it's in great condition maybe $2k, a dealer will probably offer you $1k or less on trade-in. Edmunds says that a black 4-door LS coupe with power locks and AM/FM CD/Cassette in Average condition in my zip code is worth $788 in trade-in, $1200 private party, and $1900 at dealer retail. quote:3. Will I have enough money to buy a more....stylish car immediately after grad school if I decide to hang onto the Cav for another year? I don't know how to answer this. I'm not even sure why you'd ask - surely you'd know better than us? Are you trying to ask "is replacing my car going to be less expensive than driving it some more" and I'll answer that I doubt very much that your Cav will cost you over $4000 to drive for a year. If you sold it for $1k and pay $4k for the Ford, you're still probably going to be less rich than if you'd kept it, unless it needs a brand new transmission or engine immediately. My advice is to either sell the Cav and buy something a lot better than your gramma's Ford, or, keep the Cav until/unless it needs either a new transmission (assuming you have an automatic) or the engine needs a service that will cost you more than $1500 or so. At that point dump it and get something else. I definitely do not recommend burdening yourself with more debt until after you both graduate AND have that actual job. I heard on NPR the other day a statistician say that 75% of new college graduates in 2010 moved back in with their parents immediately, mostly due to lack of immediate job prospects. That is a horrifying statistic. edit: On the drive home I was thinking about this post and I realized I may have made some incorrect assumptions or skipped a couple things. The Taurus is a mid-sized sedan. Your Cavalier is a compact car. They're really quite different in terms of driving feel, interior size, and of course total weight and mileage. Do you want a mid-sized sedan? Maybe you're 6'4" tall and don't fit in the cav very well, or maybe you need seating for 5 or a bigger trunk. If you do, you could do worse for $4k. On the other hand, you're a student, you probably would rather save money on gas, park easier, have a smaller turning radius, etc. Without knowing any other details, my strategy would be this: -Keep the Cavalier. Do minimal maintenance on it: that means, do the oil changes, keep the tires in good condition, replace brake pads when needed. Do not do any major repairs - nothing costing over $500. (Do not drive the car in an unsafe condition though!) -If the car breaks down and/or needs a $500+ service, just scrap it or sell it as a parts car or whatever, and at that point you can spend your $3k or so to get another student driving appliance. You'll have broken even. You can even find another Taurus if you actually want that, they're plentiful and inexpensive. -More likely, the Cav will limp along and in a year when you graduate, if you get that sweet job, you can get something a little better. $6k carefully spent will get you a reliable vehicle that's a bit less horrendously cheap on the inside and a bit less horrendously unsexy on the outside. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jun 15, 2012 |
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Jun 15, 2012 02:46
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Alright, I've been debating about asking in this thread about this since I'm still fairly torn but maybe you folks can help me out. I've got a 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 -three door hatch, and a wife, baby, and two dogs. So I could really probably use a bit more space. I can cram everything in there with a bit of a struggle, but it's the kind of mild pain in the rear end that gets annoying every once and a while. My car has a few dings (street parking!), and has typical Focus crappy interior (somewhat loose interior panels, including an annoying rattle from the one in the back), and I think my door lock fuse just burnt out. Nothing I can't live with, and some of it I can fix. But it's also got fairly low milage, around 58k. I'd like to get a Vibe, and I've found one in my area that seems pretty decent. 2007, lots of extras, the price seems alright and I think I can negotiate it lower, but it's got fairly high mileage, around 132k. Obviously a former commuter car. Now I'll get it checked out by an independent mechanic and all that, and factoring into what I can sell my current car for, I think the difference would be about $2k, which isn't bad, but am I going to regret switching my current car for one with over twice the mileage?
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Jun 16, 2012 02:42
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Eglamore posted:Alright, I've been debating about asking in this thread about this since I'm still fairly torn but maybe you folks can help me out. You're proposing to PAY $2k to trade in a car whose history you know for a car whose history you don't, more than double your miles, stay roughly the same, maybe a slight upgrade, in reliability (the Focus's reliability is underrated, and Toyota's, while very good, is overrated). The only thing you'd gain is two doors and a very little bit of extra space. I can understand wanting a bigger car, given your situation, but this is not the car for you. I think you should either keep looking, or keep your current car. EDIT: According to MSN autos, you'd definitely be gaining some space, but I still don't think it's worth the trade you're talking about. Focus Length (in.) 168.50 Width (in.) 66.70 Height (in.) 56.80 Vibe Length (in.) 171.90 Width (in.) 69.90 Height (in.) 62.20 Double Edit: My motivation for looking up the dimensions of those cars can be summed up in one sentence: "Walker told me I have AIDS" Grumpwagon fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 05:18
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Yeah, that's why I'm posting about it I suppose. I don't really need a much bigger car, but having to bring seats forward to squeeze a baby in back is a pain. Just not sure it's a pain worth $2k and a shorter car life. If the car was a paragon of reliability and I knew it would do another 100k, that would be one thing, but that's not guaranted.
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Jun 16, 2012 13:16
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What exactly is your budget, what could you get for the focus plus cash?
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Jun 16, 2012 14:39
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Throatwarbler posted:You could get a Regal GS for about the same per month as the BMW. Why do you hate America? The BMW will start every morning, the Regal will probably not.
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Jun 16, 2012 15:19
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Boiled Water posted:The BMW will start every morning, the Regal will probably not. BMW has had quite a few more reliability issues in recent history than Buick. It isn't 1992 anymore.
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Jun 16, 2012 22:09
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If I'm not going to go with the Vibe, I might as well fill out the questionnaire to see what I've overlooked. Proposed Budget: About $13,000 $7,500 in cash on hand after all other expenses plus value of Focus, at trade in reasonably at least $4,000, probably $4,500, or private party, which is more likely at this point for hopefully $5,500. (That's generally less than I've seen them go for even on CL so maybe I can get a bit more) Body Style: Hatch, Wagon, Small SUV. How will you be using the car?: Mostly city driving. Occasional commuting around 20 miles round trip, occasional suburb driving. Probably once or twice a year road trips of about 2,000 miles Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Nope. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style): Reliability, cost of ownership (I can do SOME maintenance work, and am keen to try my hand at more, but thus far I've only had experience with brakes, oil, and spark plugs), and MPG. As I said above, I have to haul a family and dogs around, but I don't really need a TON of space. Enough backseat room to sit somewhat comfortably, and a moderate cargo area are sufficient. Needs to be able to fit a big child car seat, so probably at least 31" in back. I should really probably be concerned with safety options, but may be limited by budget from getting a car with ESC and side airbags. If you do not live in the U.S. you should probably say so because what's available can vary a lot: Chicago (Hello, road salt) Cars I've looked at: Pontiac Vibe, early xB, I've considered Volvos (940, V70), though I've been warned that 99-2003 weren't great years, and newer gets too expensive, Foresters and Outbacks. Alternately, I could stretch some other budget items and swing a new or newer Soul or Accent or something, get the safety features and have a warranty. We could probably handle around $300 a month if we needed to with no problem, but if I can avoid a loan, I'd like to. Also, I have no garage and don't want to park a new car outside after hail nailed a ton of cars in the area last year (which we luckily avoided) edit: I figured that I could have gotten that Vibe for around $6500 with tax and all that included if it matters.
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Jun 16, 2012 22:47
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2005+ Subaru Legacy Wagon (non-turbo) or Outback The Legacy will be cheaper, but they are more rare. Other than the lift, they are virtually identical (Slightly different gearing and the Outback gets a rear VLSD). 2005+ does not have the issues of the previous 2.5s You can get a 2005 legacy for $10k (or less if you can find one). OB will cost a touch more. I'd prefer a 2006 as they improved the side airbags and the car got a bit safer and at least for NA legacies that will be well in the price range. Honestly, I think a legacy/OB fits what you want better than a forester. Pre-2005 outbacks with the flat-6 are pretty trouble free as well. 2005+ Legacies/Outbacks have better rust proofing than anything else Subaru made around then. Mine spent 5 years in a salt state (NE and MN) and looks pretty good underneath. The fuel economy is not great, but you'll live. ESC is not generally available on the manuals, but has some availability on the autos I think. Both are subject to some lift-off oversteer which isn't bad unless you're not expecting it. The safety equipment in the 2006+ is fine. The 2005 is fine, but the 2006 is better. The pre-2005s were fine for the era, but certainly we've seen some advancement since then. nm fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jun 16, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 22:55
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Are those models likely to have bad head gaskets? To be honest, one of the things that put me off them originally, is that like Volvos they all seem to have a ton of miles on them, and their mileage isn't great, which I suppose I should have placed a bit more emphasis on. I probably should have put my budget as a maximum, as what I don't spend on a car I can spend fixing up the house. Is there anything worth getting for around $8,000, or am I stuck with spending a higher amount to get all the things I need? edit: clearly the answer is a PT Cruiser. double edit: To contribute something, what about Mazda5's from around the same era? Eglamore fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 00:35
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Eglamore posted:Are those models likely to have bad head gaskets? 2005+ is not known to have HG issues. The flat-6s have no HG issue from any year. The worst HG issues are from the DOHC 2.5s. Pre-2005 SOHC have some issues, but not as bad as DOHC. All turbos have decent headgaskets (though the 2.5 turbos have their own issues). All non-2.5s are fine. Any car that has a headgasket out and been done in recent history (particularly if they used the STI gasket) should have no HG issues. Ask for paperwork though. The Mazda 5 is fine, though the 3rd row is not for adults. Basically exactly the same as a Mazda 3 except for the body on top.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:24
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With an income of roughly 200k, half of it tax free, how bad of an idea is a '13 Viper? Because I'm leaning towards it being both the best and worst idea ever.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:24
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Pudgygiant posted:With an income of roughly 200k, half of it tax free, how bad of an idea is a '13 Viper? Because I'm leaning towards it being both the best and worst idea ever. Would be the best idea ever except that the Z06 or ZR1 might be better for the money. Remember that the last Viper was the most crashed vehicle within the first year of ownership. They are very temperamental to drive (this is different than bad to drive, they're just easy to crash). I expect the new one to be somewhat easier to drive, but don't be over confident. I strongly recommend a high performance driving school if you've never driven anything like that regularly. Also, I suspect you could ask this in AI as well.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:28
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nm posted:Would be the best idea ever except that the Z06 or ZR1 might be better for the money. Early previews say it has a minimalist STM, which is a huge driveability step up from previous models. How's the maintenance on a Vette / Viper? The engine is for the most part an off-the-shelf truck engine right? I'll be back in the 99% within the next couple years so most high-end imports are out of the question due to parts costing an arm and a leg.
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Jun 17, 2012 02:38
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Thanks for the help so far. It seems like if I'm looking for a good deal (on an Outback or Mazda5) I'm going to have to find one outside of the immediate area. Any tips for finding a good mechanic in the area to check out a car if I find a good one or am I stuck with Yelp? Or should I ask this in the stupid questions thread?
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Jun 17, 2012 02:46
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Pudgygiant posted:Early previews say it has a minimalist STM, which is a huge driveability step up from previous models. I think Corvettes are pretty good, though I'm not sure about the ZR1, as the addition of boost might create issues not found in the NA motors (but I have no idea). I think the Vipers were fine, but perhaps more problematic than the corvette, but they're lower volume so harder to tell. The nice thing about the corvette is that it has a 5/yr 100,000mi powertrain warranty, so it is covered for a good long time. Eglamore posted:Thanks for the help so far. It seems like if I'm looking for a good deal (on an Outback or Mazda5) I'm going to have to find one outside of the immediate area. Any tips for finding a good mechanic in the area to check out a car if I find a good one or am I stuck with Yelp? Or should I ask this in the stupid questions thread? I bought my car in Utah, even though I lived in MN at the time. Well worth it, but my car was rare. That said, finding an NA Outback in the Chicago area shouldn't be hard. nm fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 04:04
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Pudgygiant posted:With an income of roughly 200k, half of it tax free, how bad of an idea is a '13 Viper? Because I'm leaning towards it being both the best and worst idea ever. Do you have a few million in the bank?
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Jun 17, 2012 05:13
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nm posted:I think Corvettes are pretty good, though I'm not sure about the ZR1, as the addition of boost might create issues not found in the NA motors. Some Z06 owners have had oil starvation issues popping the LS7 on track, despite having dry sump. I don't know that there's enough data out there now on the 2nd gen magnetic shock suspensions in the Z06 and ZR1s. If you drive any of these cars like a scared old man, you won't have problems that the electronics can't handle. If you jump on the throttle randomly, expect problems.
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Jun 17, 2012 05:33
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Don Lapre posted:Did you get the Honda accord wagon over there? We do yes. There are currently 4 or so I can find for sale in the whole country, none in my state, and they're 1995ish models for $4k-$5k. A bit old for the high end of my price range. What can you guys tell me about the Mitsubishi Magna Wagon, 1999-2003 or so. That seems to be the right size, efficiency, and price for us. I can get a mate who's a pretty good backyard mechanic (and marine diesel engineer) to look at any car before I buy it. I'd just like to hear opinions on it. I'm by no means set on the car. I like the Accord wagons too, but there just aren't any around. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jun 19, 2012 |
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Jun 17, 2012 13:17
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Eglamore, you might also want to consider a 2003 Mazda Protege5. ('03 because that's the last year they made it). I realize that's a bit older of a car, but if you can find one for low miles, you should be able to do under $8k. I bought mine over a year ago with 40k miles on it for about that much. Of course I'm in California where cars don't rust out, so in your area a 9 year old car might have too much rust issues so bear that in mind.
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Jun 18, 2012 17:59
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Thanks for the reply. I've looked for a few Mazda Protege5's in the area, and the mileage is also fairly high in general. I realize mileage is more of a "what you're comfortable with" thing, and varies by vehicle and maintenance, but is there a cutoff you'd consider too many? 100k? NM: About looking out of state, I have friends down in Texas, and it seems like the costs of Subarus are cheaper there generally, and I'm willing to do the legwork if I can save some money after taking into account the cost of a flight, etc. You've mentioned that rust isn't as bad in the 05+ models, right? Also, I've been talking to my wife and it looks like our current plan is to put a bit more into the house and a bit less in the car, so I should probably be looking at lower cost cars or just live with mine, and use that bit of money to fix it up a bit.
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Jun 18, 2012 21:09
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Eglamore posted:You've mentioned that rust isn't as bad in the 05+ models, right?
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Jun 19, 2012 06:55
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Eglamore posted:Thanks for the reply. I've looked for a few Mazda Protege5's in the area, and the mileage is also fairly high in general. I realize mileage is more of a "what you're comfortable with" thing, and varies by vehicle and maintenance, but is there a cutoff you'd consider too many? 100k? Given your idea of dropping in price, I think you need to be comfortable with a little more mileage in general. Here in california, 100k on a reliable car isn't that bad, I'd expect with proper maintenance to get at least another 100k out of it, given you live somewhere with real winters and road salt. Rust however changes the math. I think a car with 100k and also without significant rust is probably fine. If it's already got some cancer, though, my guess is that serious problems with the structure will start to crop up before you get through that next 100k. Buying a car from texas might be a big hassle but it does mean a rust-free model and perhaps lower prices as well. I'd say go for it especially if you wanted to take a vacation down there anyway, but, definitely line up more than one car to go take a look at because odds are good that you'll arrive and then find something wrong with the car. You don't want to be in a position where you compromise and get something crappy just because you already spent all the time and effort to get there. If you have a trusted friend or associate there who can go and look at cars on your behalf, that's a great way to go, but be aware that different people can have really wildly different standards of what is great and not great in a car.
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Jun 19, 2012 19:42
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Proposed Budget: around $20k Used Body Style: 4 door midsize, but open to an SUV. This will be the "nicer" car in the family, so vacations, trips to the store, potentially hauling kids in the future. My commute is currently about six miles/20 minutes, round trip, so while I'd like to have something nice it's not like I'll spend a lot of time in it everyday. I honestly just have no idea what my options are, I haven't paid attention to cars in years. My current car is a '02 Acura RSX with 70k miles; I love it but cosmetically it's showing its age, and I'm in the mood for something a little bigger. What I'd really hate to sacrifice in a new car is performance - yeah, my base RSX won't win any races, but it's still fun to stomp on the gas once in a while and I don't want to feel like I'm driving a '82 Cadillac. I don't want something so used that I've got to worry overly much about how it's been treated. For that reason I'd like to keep it under around 3 years / 30k miles, unless someone can give me a smarter number to start with. I've looked at Accords, Altimas, Maximas (although it's pushing it to find any in my range) and a few others. The Accords are a little on the boring side but I like the Altima and Maxima, especially if I can find something with the 3.5L engine. Carmax has a 2011 Altima SR that I'm liking; 3k miles, $22k. A bit over my price range, but 3k miles counts for a lot. Same with a 2008 Maxima SL at $21k, with 30k miles: that's just a bit older than I'm looking for, but it's a hell of a car. Any thoughts? I hate to only look at Nissans but they're everywhere and I rarely hear bad things about them; if there's some other car that seems fit for me I'd love to hear it.
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Jun 19, 2012 23:25
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