|
an audible groan posted:I was planning on using Rit but I haven't bought the stuff yet. It really just needs to be a smidge darker and blue-er. It's only for a costume, so it doesn't have to be PERFECT, either. Rit or Tintex will usually *tint* polyester, which is what it seems like you need to do. They are both considered 'universal' dyes and will generally dye animal, plant, and synthetic materials, although they don't work well on any of them. But you definitely need to immersion dye it, spraying it on won't do much. I wouldn't use boiling water on a poly jacket (might melt or warp it) but warm water should be okay.
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2012 02:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:26 |
|
|
I just watched this video and am absolutely mesmerized. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlFBLe-V-g8 I want one, but I am plus size and very tall and have giant shoulders, and all the ones I found online do not match my color/pattern style. I could not find a pattern besides your basic wrap skirt, and this one seems to have much more of an overlap. How important do you think having the slinky/silky fabric is? Would it absolutely not work with something like broadcloth because of the draping that is required? What are some non-silk fabrics that would work (there is no way I am making a trial skirt out of silk, but I want a close approximation)? Both layers look almost circle-skirt full to me. Is that a fair assessment? Here's what I have worked out so far: 1: Make two circle skirts with the waist measurement about 12" more than mine. One should be about 4" shorter than the other if you're in to that sort of thing. Both fabrics should be neat looking on both sides. 2: Sew them together at the top. Add a band with ties that are 2-3' long. Should it be any more difficult than that? Can anyone offer more specific sewing guidelines?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2012 23:10
|
|
|
Thanks Reverend Cheddar and Handbags at Dawn for chiming in on that bento box quilt. My initial problem was that for the longest blocks, I wasn't giving 1/4" seam, I was using 1/2" and didn't realize it. I've since figured it out, but I don't have my camera handy to show pictures of test blocks I made with scraps. They're pretty, though. It never occurred to me to make them as large blocks and cut them into quarters. I might do that when I get the fabric I actually want to make the quilt from. How do people approach the plain fabric on the backside? For say a full or queen-sized quilt, it doesn't seem like you can get fabric that wide. Do you just piece large pieces as necessary? Silver Alicorn, that is exactly how the bobbin is set up. I did a lot of fiddling before finally messing with the screw because the manual also says not to do it unless you have to. The problem I'm having now is that with the upper and lower tension approximately right, the bobbin thread is jerking all over the place. The top has very even, straight stitches, but on the bottom it's nearly zigzagged. Someone else was having a similar problem a few pages back, I think. I can't remember how long ago it was and I'm having trouble finding it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 01:04
|
|
|
At some shops you can find fabric that is 108" or 110" wide which is great for backing quilts, but yeah the common method is to pick a print or solid (if you're going to use a print, something small or subtle is best so it isn't obvious that you're joining pieces) and piece the back. If you do piece two or three large pieces together, what I was always told was to use a bigger seam allowance than normal when quilting, like 1/2", for stability. I see a lot of quilters making pieced backs for their quilts out of scraps left over from the top of the quilt - I haven't tried it yet but it's an appealing idea. Here's an example: http://www.swatchandstitch.com/storage/post-images/IMG_0270-1.jpg It's funny that you said that about you were using the wrong seam allowance - I'm working on a quilt that is kind of a modified log cabin and couldn't figure out why my blocks were perfectly square but not the right measurement. Until I finally noticed last night that the inner square right in the middle has the wrong seam allowance. But since it's that way on all of them, they're all the same. I'll be interested to see once I get all the blocks together whether I can tell or not.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 15:21
|
|
|
handbags at dawn posted:At some shops you can find fabric that is 108" or 110" wide which is great for backing quilts, but yeah the common method is to pick a print or solid (if you're going to use a print, something small or subtle is best so it isn't obvious that you're joining pieces) and piece the back. If you do piece two or three large pieces together, what I was always told was to use a bigger seam allowance than normal when quilting, like 1/2", for stability. Blast it, I had a reply ready but the Awful app was being an utter butt. Anyway yeah, you can find 108" around. It's uncommon, though not rare. Problem is it's almost always plain white or muslin. Lately Northcott came out with a series of rockface 108" fabric that weve been selling where I work: http://www.christianlanequilters.com/northcott.html (Though of course we're selling it at a knee jerking $20/yd, ew.) Side note: it's a curse and a blessing to work at a fabric store. I've had to develop an immense willpower to stop myself buying up every fabric I like with my employee discount and a meager paycheck.  When we started carrying Dear Stella and Amy Butler's Lark collection I thought I was gonna go mad resisting the urge to buy. (I gave in eventually.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2012 21:57
|
|
|
NancyPants posted:Thanks Reverend Cheddar and Handbags at Dawn for chiming in on that bento box quilt. My initial problem was that for the longest blocks, I wasn't giving 1/4" seam, I was using 1/2" and didn't realize it. I've since figured it out, but I don't have my camera handy to show pictures of test blocks I made with scraps. They're pretty, though. It never occurred to me to make them as large blocks and cut them into quarters. I might do that when I get the fabric I actually want to make the quilt from. How do people approach the plain fabric on the backside? For say a full or queen-sized quilt, it doesn't seem like you can get fabric that wide. Do you just piece large pieces as necessary? King sized flat sheets. I learned this from a long-arm quilter. I think up to a queen-sized quilt, you have enough yardage to cover the back of a quilt in one glorious piece. I get mine from TJ MAXX or a department store when their bedding is on sale. You can typically buy just a top sheet for a king size without having to buy the whole bed set.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 00:55
|
|
|
You're an evil genius. I'm sure I'd have come up with using a sheet in a couple days, then posted in here to see if I invented it. So today when I got home, my maintenance man greeted me with a request to take in some pants for him cause he used to be really fat and now he's comically skinny. Here is what he gave me to get it done:  BTW it does say it was manufactured in Western Germany. I need to find a way to replace the hinges on the cabinet. One is broken and twisted, and the back one doesn't seem to be traveling in the correct direction because I can't get the machine properly seated in the cabinet. I hand cranked it and the motion is very smooth. Is this thing as awesome as it looks? e: holy table breaking batman e2: oh yeah it's a 189A. Still doing research. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 5, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 01:20
|
|
|
Lol, I didn't even think about sheets and I've even done that in the past! One thing I would recommend when quilting with a sheet is to use a new needle and toss it after you're done because they are woven more closely than most quilting cottons. Moda makes some great 108" wide fabric that's not just muslin or white, I think they're even coming out with some wide batiks. So the demand's definitely there.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 15:06
|
|
|
Another possibly stupid question about facings: The pattern I have has separate neckline and armhole facings, and is princess-seamed. Is it possible to redraft the facings into a combination facing? Or is this just a retarded idea?
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 17:47
|
|
|
taiyoko posted:Another possibly stupid question about facings: Not retarded, and it's pretty easy to do. With that method though your sewing steps will be kinda different though (you'll sew the side seams last, because you have to turn the bodice parts inside out and you can't do that when your side seams are sewn. I'll elaborate when my phone isn't about to die) Okey doke. Without me seeing the pattern it's a bit hard for me to figure out exactly how you need to draft the pattern but it shouldn't be too big of a deal. First: trace out the center and side bodice patterns. If you're using a store-bought pattern, make sure you do not include the 1.5 seam allowance along the princess seam, because you're going to be joining those two together. Next, cut them both out and piece them together. Now, I haven't seen your pattern so I don't know what kind of dart tenkai we're dealing with, but I'm assuming that because it's a princess seam, you don't need to be concerned with compensating for the fabric that would be included in the dart; you'll just need to piece it together. If it's not, tell me and I'll see what you've got, then tell you how to fix it. Now you can draw out your facing, hooray! I usually start 3cm down from the armhole seam and end about... oh... 5cm up from the bust line or so. (It's probably not marked on your pattern, so tell me what kind of collar you have and I'll give you a guesstimate of how long that facing should be in the center). Follow pretty much the same steps for the back facing. For the back facing seam, I think 15cm down from the collar line should be ok. You want to draw a kind of flat S shape in order to connect things and make it all smooth -- I kinda think of a sports bra or something when I draw mine. Similar shape to what you see here (although I would've made my facing a bit longer in the middle than she did): http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FNT7VfLXs4w/Tx9a2_mBrKI/AAAAAAAAA2o/boYL1IONCYQ/s1600/F2465+Marfy+Top+7.jpg Now, the tricky part logic-wise is to sew it all together. On both the bodice and the facing, sew together only the shoulder seams. Don't connect the side seams. Instead, lay the facing wrong-side up on your (right-side up) bodice, and sew it together along the collar line first. You'll do the same for the armhole seam, but start and finish 2-3cm away from the sides. (It'll be clear a little later why) My dirty trick for making this look really professional is to baste the facing about a millimeter outside the bodice, eeever so slightly, and sew along the bodice's actual seam. This will make it so that the facing seam itself is hidden about a millimeter underneath the bodice and you will not see it from the outside once it's finished. I'd cut little bias cuts around these seams too so that you don't get any funny lumps once you've ironed it out. Now that you've got a funny little tube made, you'll be turning it inside out, so pull the back bodice pieces through your little tubes and presto, you have the 'American armhole facing' (that's what we called it in Japan, dunno what you call it in English.) In order to finish this off, now you can sew up the side seams on both the facing and the bodice. Remember how I told you to sew the armhole seam 2-3cm away? That's to make sure you've actually got room to sew together the side seams and press them flat. So, once you're done with that, you can now sew together the last bits of the armhole seam, give that a few bias cuts to make it drape nicely, and you are done. I can take some pics of one that I just did myself, although you're all going to laugh at me now because I accidentally shifted my facing 1mm below the bodice and so now I've got what looks like 1mm piping all around the collar and armholes. And I call myself a seamstress 
Reverend Cheddar fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jun 5, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2012 18:26
|
|
|
Forgive me if something similar has been asked. I started reading from the beginning of the thread but going back to 2007 is a major task. I first want to say that I have a lot of respect for people who can make their own clothes. I have been on the search for a seamstress to make a 16th century Italian renaissance doublet/farsetto and it is incredibly hard to find someone who has a page that looks like it has been updated at least once since 1998. I need the thing by October so I am wondering how hard it would be to 1) pick up the art of sewing and 2) sew a piece like that in about 4 months.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 17:22
|
|
|
I have a costume party coming up in 2-3 weeks and was considering going as either Papageno or some sort of pan/faun mix. Ideally both stylized and I would be shirtless because let's be honest, half the fun of a costume party is parading around drunk and half naked. For Papageno I'm not too worried, I'd put some peacock feathers woven into my hair so it lays back with my hairstyle (which similar to Eric from TrueBlood) extended out the back. Also something like this: http://krrb.com/posts/6841-feather-armband for both arms and just above calves/below knees and a small birdcage strapped to my back with a pair of tan/earthy fisherman pants I have. However I'd rather go with Pan/faun and build an antler ball mask similar to these:  (this is obviously way too ornamental)  (This was made in 8500BC, but from a form standpoint) I'd make a quick necklace of bone/wood tusks. Would wear the same fisherman pants and buy faux fur leg warmers like this: http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Animal-Furry-Warmers-LF25/dp/B006EPBJL4 The major question is how do I build a well structured mask which will be comfortable to wear for a decent duration of the night? I have the antlers but no idea how to create the stable mask to mount them. Second, which do you think is a better costume idea? EDIT: It looks like acrylic would work well--just found this site: http://www.instructables.com/id/Labyrinth-Ball-Mask-laser-cut/?ALLSTEPS c0ldfuse fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jun 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 20:17
|
|
|
You can buy plaster fabric - similar to what casts are made from - at the craft store. Cut them into strips no larger than about 2"x5", cover your face in vaseline and maybe saran wrap (unless you want to yank out all your facial hair), and have someone wet them (dip the strips in a bowl of water) and lay them on your face. Make it 3-4 layers thick, sit around for an hour until it firms up, then carefully peel it off, cut it to shape, and spackle the crap out of the front side to make it thicker and have the details/forms you want. Spackle can be picked up at Home Depot; it's in the drywalling department. You'll probably want armature wire inside the horns to make them more stable, and you might even consider making them out of Fimo or Sculpey so they're lighter. Then paint/adorn it to your heart's content.  Post pics of your finished product, it sounds really cool!
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 20:26
|
|
|
Muffy_the_Diver posted:You can buy plaster fabric - similar to what casts are made from - at the craft store. Cut them into strips no larger than about 2"x5", cover your face in vaseline and maybe saran wrap (unless you want to yank out all your facial hair), and have someone wet them (dip the strips in a bowl of water) and lay them on your face. Make it 3-4 layers thick, sit around for an hour until it firms up, then carefully peel it off, cut it to shape, and spackle the crap out of the front side to make it thicker and have the details/forms you want. Spackle can be picked up at Home Depot; it's in the drywalling department. Hrm... I'll try this sometime this weekend and see how it works. Have you done this before?
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 20:34
|
|
|
The biggest issues you are going to have are attaching the antlers to a mask in a way which is stable, and balancing their weight on the mask. You can't just hot-glue the antlers to an acrylic mask, and you can't even just screw them on - they're heavy enough they will deform most cheap masks. Similarly, a simple headstrap isn't going to hold a mask in place if it has the full weight of the antlers hanging off the front. My advice is to go out and buy a cheap plastic halfmask. Almost any craft store sells these. While you are out, buy a plastic swim cap and a package of plastic-soaked gauze. You can make your own but it's a pain. Now you need a friend. Put on the swim cap, and have your friend apply the plaster over it. The idea is that you are making a thin plaster shell fitted to your head. Watch out you don't plaster into your hair! Once it has dried a little on your head, put the plastic mask on. Use plaster to attach it to your plaster cap. Let it dry enough to take it off, and then let it cure fully. Once it's cured, come back and use the plaster strips to attach the antlers to the cap, as well as do any reinforcing that you need. The weight of the plaster should do a decent job balancing the weight of the antlers, and the snug plaster cap will provide a good comfy way to hold everything in place. This setup doesn't breathe very well, but you can wear it for several hours without any problems. Edit: I recommend using a store-bought half-mask and not plastering your face like Muffy suggests because it's borrowing trouble. The plastic masks will work just fine for giving you shape and structure, and you can build up on them with plaster just fine. Plastering your face is messy and difficult and if you gently caress up it can get pretty ugly. Plus lots of people are uncomfortable with having their face plastered over. I have made full plaster casts of my face before, as well as a number of skull-caps like I described. Ashcans fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jun 8, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 20:36
|
|
|
You can get plastic masks at craft stores that you can build off of too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 21:42
|
|
|
I like this idea too. What if I did it as a crown instead of a mask using the same method... something like this: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2012 21:53
|
|
|
There's a cosplay building thread in this forum that might have more knowledge about this kind of thing http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3473045
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 02:06
|
|
|
I think I'm going to go away from the mask and find a way to go with antlers-only and mix in a colored band across the eyes with make-up ala black swan.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 05:21
|
|
|
I totally didn't realize this wasn't the cosplay thread when answering that question. I subscribe to all of them.  You can probably rig a headband to hold the antlers. If you check in at a craft store you can look for floral wire, which is a pretty thick/strong wire that is still very malleable. I would wrap this around the base of the antler a couple times, and then wrap it back around to make a headband. If you are feeling crafty you could probably work it into a cool-looking coronet thing!
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2012 15:47
|
|
|
 Really slap-dash design wall has gone up for my Dear Jane so I can pick colors more easily and not get a blob of red or purple somewhere. I've since finished out Row C and started on D.  And the reversible braid patchwork strips are coming together! I finally have one long enough that you can actually see both sides at once. A whole bunch of these will eventually make a coat that's all grey wool on the outside and a gradient of blue/green/purple silks on the inside.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2012 23:59
|
|
|
Definitely mistook those for being baller ties at the first look. Looks great though; I can't wait to see the finished product!
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2012 09:58
|
|
|
I've read this thread start to finish a few times and just wanted to say thanks so much for all the wonderful advice. Before last month I had never sewn a thing before in my life and now I am having so much fun My latest thing:  I feel like I should apologize for the pile of fabric in the corning but I am pretty sure you all know what that's like
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2012 19:32
|
|
|
Holy poo poo, Queen Elizatits, did you use a pattern for that (which you could direct me to? ) or was it pretty much just trial and error? I bought fabric to do the exact same thing, but am waiting on it because a) I need to fix my serger, and b) I'm scared to mess it up.  Also, if you haven't already, you need to post that in the women's fashion thread.Goldaline I'm consistently blown away by your attention to detail. I wish I enjoyed piecing half as much as you seem to. Those are gorgeous, and I'd love to see the finished products!  The only thing I've done lately is patch a crapload of horse blankets. It pays for my addiction, but isn't what I'd rather be sewing!
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2012 19:48
|
|
|
My mom just mailed me the quilt that I started when I was 8 or so. A lot of it has been poorly handsewn so I guess I'll have to go over that with the machine. It also would be nice if it was a bit bigger, so I might see if I can add a border to that. And then I need to learn how to actually put together a quilt! It'd be nice if this actually got finished.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2012 05:44
|
|
|
Thanks for all the advice! I ended up getting the Janome, and it is completely awesome. Unlike my old machine, the zig zag stitch on this one is actually a zigzag, not straight stitching with the occasional zag. Also, it works. Unfortunately, now I have no idea what to sew. Im thinking maybe some zipper bags or drawstring bags might make a good first project?
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2012 15:14
|
|
|
It was the last day of term at my art uni and I liberated a whole load of fashion calico toiles because I use calico all the time. I want to wash it so it's preshrunk before I use it in quilts or whatever, but it's covered in pencil marks; seam allowances, notes on closures etc. Is it best the remove the pencil before I wash it, or will it come out in the wash? What can I use to get it out?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2012 13:28
|
|
|
I made myself a little sister to my messenger bag.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2012 23:53
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:I totally didn't realize this wasn't the cosplay thread when answering that question. I subscribe to all of them. I ended up making the antlers out of branches which I got from some Kitsch-y dead branch wreath I bought at Jo-Anne. Also made three pieces of jewelery: a bone and leather necklace, a bronze pendant with wood bead headband, and hemp/wood bracelet.   I'm extraordinarily happy with my idea of stripped faux-fur glued to elastic for the leggings. It definitely carries the concept without being creepy-as-gently caress-goat-legs.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 00:10
|
|
|
Totally new to this, bought an old machine that does straight stitch only, is that enough to make basic items like t-shirts or will I need zig-zag stitch as well?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 20:55
|
|
|
TEE HEE posted:Totally new to this, bought an old machine that does straight stitch only, is that enough to make basic items like t-shirts or will I need zig-zag stitch as well? I don't sew a lot with jersey (t-shirt fabric) but I don't think straight stitch is the best for it, because it doesn't have any stretch. An old machine with straight stitch can still do lots, including making tailored shirts, taking up hems, altering trouser lengths, but I don't think it would be great for jersey. Someone with more experience loving around making t-shirts, feel free to correct me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2012 23:42
|
|
|
madlilnerd posted:I don't sew a lot with jersey (t-shirt fabric) but I don't think straight stitch is the best for it, because it doesn't have any stretch. An old machine with straight stitch can still do lots, including making tailored shirts, taking up hems, altering trouser lengths, but I don't think it would be great for jersey. Most stretchy fabrics like jersey do best on a serger/overlock machine/sewing machine with an overlock stitch. Cheesy videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Onf2VvjuWIo https://vimeo.com/8597316 nolen fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jun 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 03:40
|
|
|
So after moving to a new city and losing my awesome tailor, I've decided I'm just going to teach myself everything. My mom has a sewing machine she never uses that I can probably get, but she said it has tension issues and she's had it serviced and it still fucks up so she's not sure if it's going to be very useful. I was reading the thread and saw people mention Baby Lock so I just checked craigslist our of curiosity and, assuming it's still available, there's a barely used Baby Lock Ellure with a bunch of add-on poo poo for like $300, which is less than half of a new machine alone. I looked it up and it appears to be made for embroidery, but from the specs it seems like it can do any kind of standard sewing as well? I'm really only interested in doing alterations and eventually making my own suits, so is it too much machine for that or is it worth at least calling about? And if it does have features that could be handy once I know what I'm doing, I'd rather just grab it now. I'm the type of person who picks up a new hobby and then spends 10 hours a day for the next several months practicing/reading about it so I'm not too concerned about sinking some money into it at the outset if it will be beneficial to me later.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 04:38
|
|
|
It looks like an awesome machine, but it seems like such a waste if you'll never even touch most of the features. I'd go with a simpler machine for what you want to do, you really only need straight stitch and ideally an automatic buttonhole dealio. Also, suits are such a pain in the rear end. So many fiddly little pieces and linings and hand-finished spots, it's loving nuts. I made my boyfriend a suit for a costume, simplified the hell out of it and left out the whole lining and I was still ready to murder him every time I worked on it. It came out looking pretty drat good, though!
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 15:19
|
|
|
nolen posted:Most stretchy fabrics like jersey do best on a serger/overlock machine/sewing machine with an overlock stitch. Are there any cheaper sergers? All the ones I seem to find are quite expensive.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 16:14
|
|
|
For the last year or so, I have been using this thing for all of my sewing projects.  It has been interesting, to say the least. At one point I got an old beast machine, I think I posted in here a million years ago about it, but the thing would only run in reverse and the bobbin winder was shot as well. So that has sat in the corner while I debate what to do with it. Any suggestions? I feel bad hoisting it on Goodwill or someone because it doesn't work, is there a no-kill shelter for sewing machines?  My main reason for posting is that after complaining about my little gimpy dressmaker, my hairstylist offered up her grandmother's old machine. She doesn't sew at all, so the thing sat in a barn forever before getting put in the trunk of her car for a failed attempt to sell it at a family yardsale. Basically an old machine has fallen into my lap and I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with the brand/model or knows some good resources. It's a Morse Super Dial, I am not sure how old. It looks just like the picture below, but not nearly as clean yet. I am a beginner, but after oiling it seems to be in good working order besides a missing lightbulb. Any idea what kind of bulb to get for it and where to find one? It says that the lighting unit is made by GE, if that helps. Any information is appreciated. 
Asstro Van fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Jun 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 17:30
|
|
|
I found this: http://www.dezineshoppe.com/morse.pdf and it indicates that you can use a 10-c-7 or 7-c-7 bulb (night light type bulb). Cool machine - post a picture of yours after you get it all cleaned up. I love old machines and hadn't heard of that one!
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 18:41
|
|
|
Wow thank you so much! I am getting ready to leave on a big vacation so I haven't had a lot of time for the machine, especially since I just got it last night. My brief searching only found places that sold copies of the manual for  . This is super helpful, although I already broke the rule by using generic sewing machine oil at least I hit all the right places according to the diagram. When we get back from vacation I'll have to pretty it up and post pictures.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2012 19:16
|
|
|
TEE HEE posted:Totally new to this, bought an old machine that does straight stitch only, is that enough to make basic items like t-shirts or will I need zig-zag stitch as well? I used to have an old machine that only did straight stitch. I used it to make an apron out of an old tshirt I didn't care about. The apron rarely gets used, but still, pretty much every seam has broken a stitch or two somewhere. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 13:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 02:26 |
|
|
A few weeks ago I got a Singer Merrittlock 14u44 serger at a garage sale for . I was so excited I didn't check it out enough and when I did, it looked like there was some rust, so I sadly brought it into the singer distributor in Chicago who is actually really cool. 50$ basic maintenance later I had a bunch of new needles, new lower knife, a pedal control (didnt come w/) and a working machine! I got this because I want to alter a bunch of old punk/hardcore/psych band tshirts I've collected that don't fit me, but the stitches are driving me a little crazy. I practiced on a throwaway and came really close, then did a pretty good job on my first one. My problem is doing the hems, I think the stitch I see on all my tshirts is done on a machine I don't have, I thought a serger covered it all but I'm pretty sure I'm wrong. I can get close, and it works, I just was hoping to copy whatever was on my commercial shirts. I know thats a bit short sighted. Are there any good projects to do on a serger for dudes? I am a total sewing novice. I'd like to do short sleeve button ups and dress shirts eventually but I don't think I'm there. I should probably take lessons, the Singer place has em but they're mostly quilting.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 15:28
|
|
