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I swapped my air conditioning and alt/steering belts on my '97 Impreza tonight. Putting the alternator belt on was a huge bitch - even with the alternator dropped all the way to resting on the block it still needed coercion to get it onto the pulley. A little bit of tensioner fiddling later and it's happily charging away.
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Jun 28, 2012 05:55
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Installed my new Alta intake on the Mini. Sweet sweet supercharger whine, and I can hear the BOV now. Its gonna sound sick when I put the 15% supercharger pulley on. This weekend, if they arrive, I will install the Ireland Engineering camber plates up front, and raise the coilovers about half an inch. 
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Jun 28, 2012 07:51
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wash & waxed
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Jun 28, 2012 21:03
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Went to change my brake pads, found a suprise.. I knew I was due for sway bar end links, but yikes. Of course, only one bolt came off without a fight... So time for the die grinder. 
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Jun 29, 2012 00:49
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Pulled the back seat out of the magna to steal the center lap belt. Looks like all the belts on that car have larger then normal mount holes. I'm at a bit of a loss. As it is I have larger bolts in the VW but these are still super loose in those belt end holes. the Magna didn't have big bolts either. Guess I'll just roll with it for now. I need a seatbelt for the VW. The other one should be replaced too because it's old enough to require the button to be pressed to do it up and has a kind of open ended + shaped hole in the buckle. Weird. been painting the MDF table for it too with varnish. I am so bad at it that it's just pathetic. Wood isn't my thing and I hate MDF.
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Jun 29, 2012 01:39
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This was over the weekend, actually. I finally got started on my power steering / AC / front end job. I got the AC almost completely dismantled - the condenser, compressor, and dryer are all out. I haven't pulled the evaporator core yet. All of the steering components are out - both tie rod assemblies, center link, and idler arm. One of the upper control arms is out as well. I forced myself to stop pulling front end bits off though, since I'm still waiting on the replacement UCAs to show up. And finally, I pulled all of the power steering lines. Here's what the PS hoses looked like once I got them out. The short high pressure line on top with the heat shield on it is the only one that wasn't leaking. That big long fellow across the top of the pile is the other HP line. Both high pressure lines have been sent to a local hydraulic shop to be redone. Two of the short lengths of loose hose you see used to connect the power steering cooler to the lines. The third one ran from the fill canister to a hardline that I didn't bother to follow to see where it went. Also, gently caress Oetiker clamps.  Low pressure lines. All of the metal parts you see are still in good shape except for a small amount of surface corrosion. I'm going to just redo these with standard bulk oil hose and stainless clamps, rather than buy new ones from BMW. I've done the two easy looking ones already. The big bastard with the bendy hose on it has been a bit of a challenge so far however, as I am having trouble locating suitable hose to replace the existing one with. Finding an appropriate molded oil-rated hose is a pipe dream, and Autozone doesn't seem to have bulk trans cooler hose big enough to go over that fitting. Hoping one of the other parts stores around here will have something (looking at you, NAPA)  a few minutes and a few sparks later...  Also, I've been getting belt squeal on shifts forever, so I figured I'd do the belt tensioner while I was in there and had all this poo poo apart. Guess it was due. 
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Jun 29, 2012 04:32
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New tires after a goddamn sidewall split. They were all getting close to the wear bars anyway. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Super+Sport+A%2FS+%28W-Speed+Rated%29 BFGoodrich G-Force Super Sport A/S. They get decent reviews and I got a good price on 'em. I only drive it on the streets, anyway. Anyone have experience with these tires?
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Jun 29, 2012 07:03
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Previa_fun posted:New tires after a goddamn sidewall split. They were all getting close to the wear bars anyway. I do. I hate to say it but it was probably the worst tire I ever had. In fact, I swore off BFGoodrich for good after my experience with them. The road noise was awful, traction in rain was laughable, and they lasted all of 15,000 miles. It may have just been bad luck on my part but it was enough for me. Hopefully you get better results out of them. They were on an '04 GTO in case you were wondering.
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Jun 29, 2012 07:55
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I attempted unbolting my entire exhaust assembly at the headers of my 92 F-150. The pipes are super cracked and corroded and the muffler is kind of just dangling on the rest of the pipe so I'll just run it open for the rest of its life. I also only managed to get one nut off; the rest were all seized. GUESS I'LL TRY AGAIN TOMORROW
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Jun 29, 2012 08:21
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Black88GTA posted:Here's what the PS hoses looked like once I got them out. The short high pressure line on top with the heat shield on it is the only one that wasn't leaking. That big long fellow across the top of the pile is the other HP line. Both high pressure lines have been sent to a local hydraulic shop to be redone. Two of the short lengths of loose hose you see used to connect the power steering cooler to the lines. The third one ran from the fill canister to a hardline that I didn't bother to follow to see where it went. Also, gently caress Oetiker clamps. And I was bitching about the power steering lines on my Altima...  I had to replace all of the low pressure lines shortly after getting it, but I was able to use bulk hose on all but 2 of them.Thankfully none of the high pressure ones have leaked yet, the PS pump is buried under the intake manifold and pretty much impossible to get to. 
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Jun 29, 2012 08:50
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mr_bunnyfish posted:I attempted unbolting my entire exhaust assembly at the headers of my 92 F-150. The pipes are super cracked and corroded and the muffler is kind of just dangling on the rest of the pipe so I'll just run it open for the rest of its life. I also only managed to get one nut off; the rest were all seized. GUESS I'LL TRY AGAIN TOMORROW Soak them in a 1/2 acetone 1/2 ATF mix daily and come back to it next Friday.
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Jun 29, 2012 13:15
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mutt2jeff posted:Installed my new Alta intake on the Mini. Sweet sweet supercharger whine, and I can hear the BOV now. Its gonna sound sick when I put the 15% supercharger pulley on. This weekend, if they arrive, I will install the Ireland Engineering camber plates up front, and raise the coilovers about half an inch. The supercharged cars don't have a BOV though? You're just hearing the intake suck in air when you press the gas It does sound really nice when you have the pulley and intake  What coilover set up do you have now?
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Jun 29, 2012 19:52
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Nodoze posted:The supercharged cars don't have a BOV though? You're just hearing the intake suck in air when you press the gas Actually, that car has a compressor bypass valve that you can hear... when it's working. Often the valve will fail open and the car won't make full boost. Often when that happens, the driver of the Mini won't even notice. That valve is mounted to the worst-designed car part I've ever worked with. It goes from the intake, between the engine and the radiator, and connects to the supercharger inlet at sump-level. The pipe is positioned by one tiny plastic tab with a bolt through it. If that tab breaks, you're looking at buying an expensive part and taking the front of the car apart. gently caress that part.
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Jun 29, 2012 20:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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Your right, it is a bypass valve, but the function in pretty much the same. And I had my doubts that the bypass was functioning correctly before I put the intake on, but now I can hear it loud and clear. That doesn't mean its actually closing all the way at low boost, but its not completely non operational either. A boost gauge will go on the car soon, to help me keep an eye on that sort of stuff. I do have a feeling that its not closing completely, so a Detroit Tuned bypass is probably in the future. Edit: It has H&R RSS coilovers. mutt2jeff fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 20:34
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meatpimp posted:Actually, that car has a compressor bypass valve that you can hear... when it's working. Often the valve will fail open and the car won't make full boost. Often when that happens, the driver of the Mini won't even notice. The BPV isn't that hard to replace, and it's not THAT expensive either. Detroit tuned makes an upgraded one with a better spring that's like 120 bucks
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Jun 29, 2012 20:36
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Nodoze posted:The BPV isn't that hard to replace, and it's not THAT expensive either. ... I didn't say it was? I said that the part it's connected to is a loving piece of poo poo.
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Jun 29, 2012 21:11
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opengl128 posted:Also, speed bleeders make it comically easy. Never doing it the old way again. These things look great, I might have to order some. I'm planning on doing a thorough fluid change on the Ninja real soon, these would make life real easy.
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Jun 29, 2012 21:31
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When I get home I plan to install a blendmount and invisicord for my new Bel RX65 Radar Detector. It was time to upgrade the old Bel 890 from like 2001.
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Jun 29, 2012 21:40
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XCPuff posted:I do. Ah man, hope I have better luck. Running them on an '03 Miata, and while I can see how could get noisy (this is only based on my uneducated eyes looking at the tires and it seeming like the tread design is a bit "blockier" than other performance tires) the car is loud anyway. They seem to grip well enough so far, but I don't push the car hard on the streets. If we ever get any rain again I'll see how they do in the wet.
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Jun 30, 2012 00:38
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Did some work on my 79 Chrysler Regal today, took the radiator out as the current one is beyond hosed from corrosion/damage to the fins. Going to do a full cooling system overhaul whilst I'm in there, new waterpump, belts, thermostat etc. Engine is a 265cu Hemi 6, what Chrysler Australia made to supersede the Slant 6. Back in 79 it was putting out ~200hp and getting 30mpg (imperial).
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Jun 30, 2012 08:38
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Not today exactly, but fitted a box with an integrated circuit that's supposed to fool the engine in to tossing more fuel into the common rail. (Turbo Diesel) I know everyone who reads that will cringe, and I would agree. Also, I partially broke the clip that connects my OEM common rail pressure sensor to the rail... So, yeah. I don't know if it works all that well, the car feels fine, though, although trying to do a 0-60 run when dumping the clutch resulted in constant wheelspin then a CEL (at about 4700 RPM) which sent the car into limp-home until I powered it down and back up, and I read the error using my laptop which reported that the rail was out of expected range. So my guess is the computer reads the actual values as well as the values it sends in, and compensates for it - so the box does nothing (my guess). Well, you live and learn! (Yes, I know this isn't the smartest thing to do, but it's fun to try!). I'll probably do some easier tests later on between speeds such as 30-60 with and without to test it. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Jul 1, 2012 |
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Jul 1, 2012 02:03
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Cleaned my one filthy, filthy wheel. Next project: Figure out why I have only one filthy, filthy wheel. No apparent pull, no weird noises, and every shop report has measured both sides at even pad wear. Fun times ahead I'm sure.
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Jul 1, 2012 07:16
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HalloKitty posted:So my guess is the computer reads the actual values as well as the values it sends in, and compensates for it - so the box does nothing (my guess). That's pretty much right, and the reason why those boxes are relatively cheap. For best results, you need a proper ECU reflash with a map that's dyno tuned for your engine.
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Jul 1, 2012 10:26
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Replaced and upgraded the radiator fan.        It was very hot yesterday.
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Jul 1, 2012 16:43
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Well, I bought an E39 540i/6 last weekend, so this weekend I changed the oil/oil filter, air filter and both cabin filters. Fucker took like eight quarts of oil, all synthetic. Good thing O'reilly's had the 5.1L jugs of Castrol Edge on sale for $29.99/pop, with a mail-in rebate I think (haven't looked at the fine print yet). Though I've heard BMW dealerships actually sell BMW oil for like $4.95/quart, so maybe next time I'll check that out. Beats the regular price of Castrol Edge. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Jul 2, 2012 |
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Jul 2, 2012 18:06
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Popped the valve cover and replaced the gaskets on the Saturn after, when about to check the spark plugs, found about 2oz of oil in 3 of 4 wells.
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Jul 2, 2012 20:13
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Replaced the radiator in my wife's '02 Protege on the side of I-10 after work. The OEM radiator had a 2 inch crack in the plastic bottom of the radiator. Stop leak just laughed at it. I'm thankful that she's aware of the importance of the temperature gauge, especially in southern Louisiana in July. This weekend I get the privilege of overhauling that turd to keep it going a little longer.
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Jul 3, 2012 03:11
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Smogged the bitch. Let the newb at the smog shop spend 3 minutes trying to find where the key was. < >
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Jul 3, 2012 03:12
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Paul Boz_ posted:Replaced the radiator in my wife's '02 Protege on the side of I-10 after work. The OEM radiator had a 2 inch crack in the plastic bottom of the radiator. Stop leak just laughed at it. I'm thankful that she's aware of the importance of the temperature gauge, especially in southern Louisiana in July. This weekend I get the privilege of overhauling that turd to keep it going a little longer. Be thankful the Stop Leak laughed at it... and go flush that poo poo before it clogs up your heater core. In Nissan's infinite wisdom, the sending unit for my temp gauge is... in the neck for the upper radiator hose. Which means if there's a sudden loss of coolant, the temp gauge isn't going to do jack poo poo until it's too late. At least if it was in the block, there'd be SOME coolant left (even if it's not circulating) and the gauge would do.. something.
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Jul 3, 2012 15:29
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Reunited her with a long lost sibling?   
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Jul 4, 2012 04:43
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StormDrain posted:Popped the valve cover and replaced the gaskets on the Saturn after, when about to check the spark plugs, found about 2oz of oil in 3 of 4 wells. Well I ran it today on the highway and ended up with oil all over the drat place. I was being ginger on the bolts, basically fully choked on the ratchet and using little force but getting them tight. Now I don't really know if I was too tight or too soft, I brought the ratchet back out and did the same dance and got about 1/4 turn on all bolts. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jul 5, 2012 |
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Jul 5, 2012 02:46
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StormDrain posted:Well I ran it today on the highway and ended up with oil all over the drat place. I was being ginger on the bolts, basically fully choked on the ratchet and using little force but getting them tight. Now I don't really know if I was too tight or too soft, I brought the ratchet back out and did the same dance and got about 1/4 turn on all bolts. Ideally you should use a torque wrench. Ideally, of course. In reality, about a quarter to a third turn past "can't turn it any further with bare finger holding a greasy socket, but haven't attached a ratchet yet" has worked for me. But I hold no responsibility if this strips anything. Of course, with my luck, this is likely 5x what's actually needed, but I'm also lazy (and broke my torque wrench over 2 years ago). Valve cover bolts are sometimes measured in in/lbs instead of ft/lbs as well, which eliminates your entry level torque wrenches. Also, make sure you didn't forget a PCV valve or breather hose... or oil cap.. or dipstick. Leaving any of those off will make a huge mess in a hurry.
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Jul 5, 2012 11:27
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some texas redneck posted:Ideally you should use a torque wrench. Ideally, of course. I've come to the conclusion that I goofed on the sequence. It was 89in-lb by the way, so I'm going with super light. The entire reason I fixed this was to continue driving this Saturn into the ground, no sense in speeding that process up with an overzealous ratchet. So I loosened the whole thing and let it free, then spun them until I felt any resistance, then about a 1/4 turn on all 11 bolts (in sequence). I'll find out over the weekend, tomorrow feels like a drive the pickup to work kind of day. edit: now after rereading that it sounds like way too much. Oh god what does 100 in-lb feel like??!? StormDrain fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jul 6, 2012 |
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Jul 6, 2012 04:49
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StormDrain posted:I've come to the conclusion that I goofed on the sequence. It was 89in-lb by the way, so I'm going with super light. The entire reason I fixed this was to continue driving this Saturn into the ground, no sense in speeding that process up with an overzealous ratchet. About 8 lb*ft. Basically pick up something that weighs 8 pounds; that's the force you should feel on the end of a 1-foot ratchet handle when it's properly tightened.
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Jul 6, 2012 05:24
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Stop taking unnecessary risks, just get a $10 inch-pound clicker torque wrench from Harbor Freight and call it a day.
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Jul 6, 2012 13:17
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Splizwarf posted:Stop taking unnecessary risks, just get a $10 inch-pound clicker torque wrench from Harbor Freight and call it a day. I would consider one of those torque wrenches an unnecessary risk honestly. I use mine for things like lug nuts and not much else.
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Jul 6, 2012 16:59
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I would consider one of those torque wrenches an unnecessary risk honestly. I use mine for things like lug nuts and not much else. They are easy to check for accuracy. Mine is still dead on.
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Jul 6, 2012 17:24
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StormDrain posted:So I loosened the whole thing and let it free, then spun them until I felt any resistance, then about a 1/4 turn on all 11 bolts (in sequence). I'll find out over the weekend, tomorrow feels like a drive the pickup to work kind of day. The bolts should be tightened in opposites. Best way to describe it - you know how when you change a tire, you don't tighten the lugs in a circle, instead you do the one furthest from the one you just tightened? But if it's not leaking after that, it should be fine. Back them off slightly if you're nervous. To contribue. Friend's 2005 Kia Optima has been running hot. Not slightly warm, but almost peg the gauge hot (and peg the gauge within a few minutes of turning on the a/c). I figured the thermostat was stuck shut, until I opened the hood.  Take care of your cooling systems damnit!  Wish I took a pic of the radiator itself, or the cap.Still drained the radiator enough to change the thermostat (it's on the lower hose on this car).. and it was more of an orange slurry instead of liquid. Then when I pulled the thermostat housing, there was no thermostat.  Has a thermostat and about 25/75 iron oxide slurry/water in it now - still running warm, but he said the gauge never got over 1/2 on his way home (it was almost in the red when we met up). I'm thinking the radiator is just so clogged that it can't do poo poo. We're going to borrow a friend's driveway in a few days and do a flush of some kind there - what's the best way to get all this crap out? Hopefully the water pump impellers aren't rusted into oblivion, but the temp now drops to a normal range when it's actually moving edit: did Kias use DexCool in 2005? I've never seen anything like this on a newer car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jul 7, 2012 |
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Jul 7, 2012 01:39
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some texas redneck posted:The bolts should be tightened in opposites. Best way to describe it - you know how when you change a tire, you don't tighten the lugs in a circle, instead you do the one furthest from the one you just tightened?  says since you're in TEXAS that what you have there is the result of him running straight water with no corrosion protection... Just because it never freezes down there people think it's still the 1930s and they can run water...What do you think? (Seriously, that's WAY too loving much sludge to have happened with coolant present. The lack of a thermostat ALSO means somebody hosed with the system previously... Anyone who thinks "Ehh, don't need no damned thermostat!" regarding a "newer" vehicle also probably thinks that water alone cools better than a coolant solution...) ... I MESSED WITH TEXAS! Come up here to PA and be a MAN. (Not you, some texas redneck. I'm referring to the rest of the Texan rednecks...)
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Jul 7, 2012 02:31
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He swears he's been topping it off with 50/50 premix... but he's also saying that it spitting orange sludge out of the overflow is a recent development. One look at the undercarriage told me it's been doing that for a long time, the entire drivers side of the underbody is covered in the poo poo. It actually does freeze here, just not often, and we rarely get below 20F. I'm hoping the water pump and head gasket aren't toast. It's also way, way overdue for both timing belts, but if the head gasket is gone, I'll probably advise him to try and dump it ASAP. It's in far worse shape than a 7 year old car should be - multiple codes (all emissions related, but the inspection expires at the end of this month) in the ECU, eats tires, body is fairly rough, motor mounts are bad, etc etc etc.
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Jul 7, 2012 03:29
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