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If you're at all going to consider the 2010+ Mustang, the 2011+ is even better still due to the engine changes - the V6 Mustang before 2011 is useless and should be ignored at all costs. The 2011 V6 Mustang is faster than a great many of the V8s that came before it and can actually be looked at as a legitimate option. Of course, if the budget can at all fit the 2011+ 5.0 and you like horsepower...
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 01:15 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 15:23 |
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Oops yeah, I meant 2011. I'm not super up on Mustangs and forgot that 2010 was the gap year that had the facelifted exterior styling but not the new, much improved engines of 2011+.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 01:16 |
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Yeah I was dumb for putting the 40,000. I apologize.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 02:23 |
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Ulysses S. Grant posted:Proposed Budget: 10k (15k at the most) The fit will be more of the issue. Nothing a test fit can't solve. I'm 6'4" and hate being in a prius, but other people about my height drive em and love them.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 02:33 |
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nm posted:A prius will easily get up the Cajon pass. Awesome! I'm gonna have to start checking them out. Most of the Prii (?) in my area seem to have over 100k miles - is there anything I should be looking for as far as maintenance that should have been done at that point?
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 02:40 |
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Ulysses S. Grant posted:Awesome! I'm gonna have to start checking them out. Most of the Prii (?) in my area seem to have over 100k miles - is there anything I should be looking for as far as maintenance that should have been done at that point? My mom had over 100k on hers when it got totaled and it was fine. The batteries are covered to like 150k mi or something and will last well beyond that. For 10-15k though, you should be able to drop below 100k mi. I'd recommend something as new as possible as they did some bug fixes, though my mom's was a 2004 and never had an issue. I would strongly recommend a PPO at a toyota dealer though.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 02:48 |
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nm posted:
Once I high centered my Evo on a snowbank - it was AWD and I had winter tires so I can literally drive over anything anywhere right? A guy in his girlfriend in a New Edge Cobra on summer tires stopped and helped push me out. It's me, I'm the guy in the IIHS report.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 07:57 |
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Throatwarbler posted:A guy in his girlfriend niiiiiiice Falcon2001 posted:[Focus] although it's approximately the same width which surprises me, as my Maxima doesn't fit in compact parking spots at all. The Veloster is the same width, and the Golf is 2" narrower. Turning circle is gonna matter more. Check out Edmunds' long term test of the Prius C, which is under way. It seems to suggest it wouldn't cut it for highway use.
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 08:38 |
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Guinness posted:last year I bought a car that was ~40k in 2004 with low miles and still in perfect condition, for 15k. The original owner babied it, and I've had it for over a year now and haven't had any issues at all. What car was this?
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# ? Jun 27, 2012 09:28 |
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Michael Scott posted:What car was this? A loaded 2004 BMW 330Ci with 55k miles (at the time). Depreciation is a bitch. Make it work for you. Wouldn't recommend one (or any other "premium" car) if you're on a tight budget or just looking for an appliance car since it does cost more to keep on the road than a Corolla or whatever, but if you're looking for something nicer/sportier/cooler/etc and are willing to spend a small premium on routine maintenance then it (or any other used entry-level luxury sport sedan/coupe) is a great deal for a fantastic car. Since that's what the previous poster said they were looking for, it's a much cheaper way to go than buying new. Instead of spending 40k on a new one, spend 15-20k on a used one and invest the difference. One that was taken care of is still essentially new and has a long life ahead of it, you suffer much less depreciation, and even if it, worst case, needs a few thousand dollars in repairs in the near term you still come out way ahead. Just don't take it to the dealer; find a good independent shop. Even better if you can learn to do the super simple stuff yourself, or at least know enough to talk intelligently with a mechanic. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jun 27, 2012 |
# ? Jun 27, 2012 17:29 |
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I'm going to take a look at a car this weekend at a small dealership that claims to have put the vehicle through a "pre purchase safety/mechanical inspection completed at Goodyear auto service center." How much stock should I put in the resulting inspection report? This dealership is located about an hour drive away from where I live, so taking the car to my local mechanic for a pre purchase inspection would be kind of a pain. In fact, how do these pre purchase inspections usually go down when dealing with a dealership? Do they just give you the car for an afternoon to take to your mechanic? If possible I'd like to take it to the auto shop my brother owns, to support his business if nothing else. Kefit fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jun 29, 2012 |
# ? Jun 29, 2012 03:43 |
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Guinness posted:A loaded 2004 BMW 330Ci with 55k miles (at the time). 330s sell for $45K? Was it loaded with an M5 is the trunk or did the first owner just really get taken for a ride by a dealer somewhere? I loved that AI thread a few years ago where someone took pictures of their sales agreement where they paid like $12000 over MSRP for some boring Honda and they were asking for help in getting the money back and everyone was just laughing their asses off at him. PUNCHITCHEWIE fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jun 29, 2012 |
# ? Jun 29, 2012 03:54 |
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Kefit posted:I'm going to take a look at a car this weekend at a small dealership that claims to have put the vehicle through a "pre purchase safety/mechanical inspection completed at Goodyear auto service center." How much stock should I put in the resulting inspection report? This dealership is located about an hour drive away from where I live, so taking the car to my local mechanic for a pre purchase inspection would be kind of a pain. quote:In fact, how do these pre purchase inspections usually go down when dealing with a dealership? Do they just give you the car for an afternoon to take to your mechanic? If possible I'd like to take it to the auto shop my brother owns, to support his business if nothing else. Depends. I bought by car from a subaru dealer about 1000mi away from where I lived (the car was a Subaru and a rare one at that, hence the distance). They gladly drove the car to the shop of my choice.
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# ? Jun 29, 2012 08:01 |
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PUNCHITCHEWIE posted:330s sell for $45K? Was it loaded with an M5 is the trunk or did the first owner just really get taken for a ride by a dealer somewhere? I don't see why not. While cars in the US are generally cheaper from what I've seen, a 330i coupe starts at like EUR 44k before you even touch the M-sport package or any of the other good stuff.
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# ? Jun 29, 2012 09:17 |
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PUNCHITCHEWIE posted:330s sell for $45K? Was it loaded with an M5 is the trunk or did the first owner just really get taken for a ride by a dealer somewhere? Yes, they did (and I said 40k not 45k). A base 330ci MSRP was $36800 in 2004, invoice was $33650. But no one buys base model BMWs. Pile on the sport, premium, cold packages, and optional "premium" OEM wheels and you're easily at 40k+. And and M5 cost almost double that. I know it's a bit apples and oranges since it's 2012 and not the exact same car anymore, but now a 335i coupe (the evolution of the 330ci) starts at 45k before any options or packages. Tack on the typical sport/premium/cold packages and you're looking at 52k+. Guinness fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Jun 29, 2012 |
# ? Jun 29, 2012 17:20 |
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Proposed Budget: ~$30k New or Used: New, preferably, but I'm not opposed to buying a used car that's only a few years old Body Style: 2 door How will you be using the car?: Very light commuting, as in every other week and only 2 or 3 days on the weeks that I do. Just getting around town besides that. What aspects are most important to you?: Just got out of college and landed a very well-paying job. I'm looking for something sporty that can still act as a commute car in DC traffic occasionally. Gas mileage isn't too important as long as the car isn't a guzzler. Reliability is fairly important, as well as an ease of being able to work on the engine myself. Any passengers beyond the first can deal with being cramped or find another ride. I was originally looking at the Accord until my friend recommended a Mustang and ever since the more I've thought about it the more I've been pulled toward it. Any insights or things I should be aware of for both cars? Other cars that I should look at? I'd be much more comfortable buying the Accord used, as it seems the only used Mustangs I can find are ex-fleet cars, which I don't trust. I'm also in no hurry to replace my current car just yet, but it's definitely showing its age. I plan on saving up money for a massive downpayment until either my current car finally dies or I feel like it's time to put her down. Necc0 fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 30, 2012 |
# ? Jun 30, 2012 06:08 |
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My only worry with the Mustang is that I am guessing that DC's roads are probably pretty bumpy. Ford has done amazing things with the live axle at the back of the Mustang, but it's still a live axle. Definitely test drive it first and make sure you can live with that. They're solid cars otherwise, and very hard to beat in a straight line for the money. Subaru BRZ / Scion FRS might be a good choice too, but I think they're nearly sold out for the year already.
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# ? Jun 30, 2012 17:54 |
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I wouldn't buy a v6 mustang until the current 300hp motor. The rest were woefully underpower and delivered worst gas mileage. The new one is nearly as fast as older GT mustangs and get 30mpg in automatic form. That said, the auto v6 is geared terribly, so I'd highly recommend a manual. Can't go wrong with the new 5.0 Gt either.
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# ? Jun 30, 2012 21:07 |
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Turns out the pre purchase inspection wasn't an issue. since I ran a carfax and the car I was looking at had a rebuilt title. Too bad I had already driven out there to look at it, since I was reluctant to spend the money before actually seeing the car. Oh well, lesson learned. After looking for a car for a few months I've got a better idea of what I really want and what I really can afford, so I guess I'll see if anyone has any suggestions I may have overlooked: Budget: $10,000, and this needs to include King County's incredibly obnoxious 9.8% auto sales tax. Body Style: Small hatchback, preferably four doors. I carry adult passengers in the backseat once or twice a week and would like room to haul things when needed. Condition/Age: Would like under 100k miles. I know that cars with higher mileage can be perfectly good and have long lives ahead of them, but I'm not really comfortable buying something that has been driven that much. Not picky about age so long as the car is relatively modern and has modern safety features. Other: I want a nice interior, and in particular I'd really like a sunroof and heated seats. I also want decent fuel economy, though I can live if it's not fantastic. A late model year MkIV Golf seems to fit my needs perfectly, but if I've overlooked something then hey let me know.
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# ? Jun 30, 2012 22:52 |
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Mazda 3 hatch.
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# ? Jun 30, 2012 23:19 |
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Necc0 posted:Proposed Budget: ~$30k If you've got a high paying job why are you bothering with a Mustang? Don't worry about all those AI bench racers and their Mustang obsession. I think you should buy an 2007+ SLK55 AMG. It fits all of your criterion and is a bit more fitting for someone of your social standing. The SLK has always been a very reliable model for MB and this one has the old 5.4l SOHC non-supercharged engine which was still decently powerful and didn't have any of the blower/intercooler issues that the supercharged versions had.
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# ? Jul 1, 2012 06:33 |
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I suspect what you think a high paying job is and what he does. Maintenance on a car that retailed that high when new will be a lot different than something in the high 20s, low 30s new. Also, a modern AMG, even without boost, will be a bit more complex to DIY than a Mustang.
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# ? Jul 1, 2012 06:53 |
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A bit more complex is putting it mildly. The target market for MB is the one that owns the car new, and utilizes the dealer for maintenance during the warranty period, and then moves on. Even if you're very "I want to work on it myself" minded, MB is not a company that makes that easy, and the community for the newer cars isn't really built with that mindset either. I'm not saying Ford or Subaru or anyone else is particularly building their cars to make them easy for the owner to work on...but they do at least acknowledge that their demographic is likely to do the work and/or modify them, and the community support for those cars is also much more DIY-oriented. If you want to split the difference, a used or CPO Infiniti G35/G37 may be a good choice.
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# ? Jul 1, 2012 07:12 |
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Proposed Budget:10-15k New or Used: Used Body Style: Preferably 4-door, but pretty flexible. How will you be using the car?: Commuting at least 50 miles roundtrip every day around Boston. What aspects are most important to you? I'd really like something reliable that will be cheap to fix and has decent gas mileage since I'll be driving it a good deal. Aesthetics aren't important to me, but I do like the looks of Ford Fusions.
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# ? Jul 2, 2012 05:45 |
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nm posted:I wouldn't buy a v6 mustang until the current 300hp motor. The rest were woefully underpower and delivered worst gas mileage. The new one is nearly as fast as older GT mustangs and get 30mpg in automatic form. Took one of the new v6 standards out for a test drive and I think I'm in love. I'll almost definitely be getting one.
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# ? Jul 2, 2012 22:23 |
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Tornado Laserfalcon posted:Proposed Budget:10-15k Mazda3 in either sedan or hatchback form. If you wanted to go new, they have the new Skyactiv Mazda3 which gets 38-40mpg on the freeway.
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# ? Jul 7, 2012 03:29 |
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Proposed Budget: 5k - 7k, paid in cash. New or Used: Used Body Style: Don't care How will you be using the car?: ~10 mile roundtrip weekday commute, plus occasional weekend trips outside my city (Houston) What aspects are most important to you? Reliability. That said, my attitude used to be "I don't like cars, I want something I never have to maintain." But after reading this this and other threads, I see that as probably an irresponsible attitude that ultimately is at my own expense. So, I'm not allergic to American cars, especially given my budget. As an additional note, I posted this thread yesterday about leasing a car vs. buying used. My cousin, who's in marketing and had worked extensively with car dealers, is trying to push me in the direction of leasing as opposed to buying, saying it's a greal deal right now. But the consensus in the above thread seemed to be that with leasing, you're getting a new car and that's ultimately going to be more expensive. But BFC/A/T is a different crowd, so if any of you have a comment on leasing vs. buying used, I'd be most interested.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 00:30 |
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So, finally got around to test-driving the Mazda 5 I was interested in. I like it very well. Excellent visibility, good driving feel, considerably roomy front and middle, and I don't expect to be hauling people long distance in the wee seats in the back. HOWEVER, I don't like the seats. Don't like the way the cloth feels, and I'm not sure I like the position/shape/padding either. Is this something I can address with aftermarket seat covers? or is "don't like the seats" a buy/no-buy decision? I don't see this addressed in any of the reviews I've read. Am I the only person who finds them uncomfortable? or is it just not something reviews talk about? For reference, I've never thought "I don't really like the seats" about my old saab, prius, or jeep. So I don't think I'm picky. I've not tried the leather trim GT version, but I don't really want to pay for the rest of the not-very-interesting gizmos on the top trim level.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 05:04 |
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After reading more of this thread, I have two questions. First, I see a lot about how the common wisdom regarding the reliability of Civics and Corollas is outdated, and now used domestic cars are as good or almost so. So...which ones? Any suggestions for domestic Civic/Corolla equivalents? I'm also concerned about the fact that apparently some years of otherwise good model years are lemons. What websites can I go to where I can look up a certain year and see if it's bad? edit: Blue Book, duh. Yeah, I'm new at this. Ramrod Hotshot fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jul 8, 2012 |
# ? Jul 8, 2012 18:31 |
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Crosspost from the AI questions thread. Should I avoid buying a car with alloy wheels if I'm parking outside overnight? My parking space is in an alley behind apartment buildings. Unfortunately no garages are there at all. I don't care about alloy wheels, but the car in particular I'm about to buy is the 2012 Subaru Impreza Sport Premium that comes stock with them...and seemingly all the other cars such as the Mazda3 and Honda Fit Sport(really bad theft prone I hear) have them as well. I know they make locking nuts but based on quick research they're more of a basic theft determent and pretty easily overcome. I'd make sure my new insurance covers it, but I'd still have to pay the deductible and major inconvenience. So should I only look at cars with steelies or am I being paranoid? wide stance fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jul 8, 2012 |
# ? Jul 8, 2012 19:28 |
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wide stance posted:So should I only look at cars with steelies or am I being paranoid? Paranoid. Almost everything except for the most poverty-spec economy cars come with alloy wheels nowadays.
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# ? Jul 8, 2012 20:16 |
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Guinness posted:Paranoid. Almost everything except for the most poverty-spec economy cars come with alloy wheels nowadays. Yes, and no one wants poverty spec alloys. The wheels getting stolen are higher end ones.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 07:03 |
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Slo-Tek posted:So, finally got around to test-driving the Mazda 5 I was interested in. I like it very well. Excellent visibility, good driving feel, considerably roomy front and middle, and I don't expect to be hauling people long distance in the wee seats in the back. Try the GT but seats are pretty integral to the whole experience of the car - if you can't get your rear end comfortable, that will never, ever stop bothering you. I'd never buy a car that I couldn't feel truly comfortable in after a short bit of adjusting the seats.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 07:11 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:After reading more of this thread, I have two questions. First, I see a lot about how the common wisdom regarding the reliability of Civics and Corollas is outdated, and now used domestic cars are as good or almost so. So...which ones? Any suggestions for domestic Civic/Corolla equivalents? The car that comes up most frequently as a substitute for the Civic/Corolla is the 2008-2010 Focus. It's nothing special, but cheaper and reliable. To your other question, I feel like if your budget for a used car is 5-7k, then buying a used car over leasing is probably the right choice. There is some risk in total cost to own over several years, but that total cost might very well be lower than the kind of depreciation you're staring down with a nice lease.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 07:37 |
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Slo-Tek posted:So, finally got around to test-driving the Mazda 5 I was interested in. I like it very well. Excellent visibility, good driving feel, considerably roomy front and middle, and I don't expect to be hauling people long distance in the wee seats in the back. I had a ride in one a while back and the seats were pretty bad, especially the back. It's not just you, it felt to me like one of those Chinese bread vans. Or maybe that's what they put in the Chinese model.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 09:11 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:After reading more of this thread, I have two questions. First, I see a lot about how the common wisdom regarding the reliability of Civics and Corollas is outdated, and now used domestic cars are as good or almost so. So...which ones? Any suggestions for domestic Civic/Corolla equivalents? This may be true for new cars, but if you are buying older cars nothing comes close to a Sentra, Camry, Corolla. What is also true is that since they are far more of them, junkyards are full of parts. Civics, and Hondas in general, still (20 years later) rust faster than other Japanese cars.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 09:43 |
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jackpot posted:Proposed Budget: around $20k [this ended up migrating from "around 20k" to "Absolutely no more than 20k," after doing the math. That ruled out a lot of cool poo poo hovering around the mid-20's] * I know it's risking disaster and ridicule to ask a mechanic for car recommendations (after all, the shittier my car, the more money he makes), but our guy earns far more money on referrals from me and my wife than he does on our repairs, and he knows it. I don't think he'd gently caress me on this, and he really has a thing against Mazdas. Guinness posted:Almost everything except for the most poverty-spec economy cars come with alloy wheels nowadays. "I love the car, but it's the wheels. It's those God. Damned. Wheels." It took me five minutes just to explain the difference between wheels and hubcaps to her ("So you mean it needs different tires, is that all?"), and when I was done she was left shaking her head and sighing, but damnit, I'm not gonna be one of those people who drives a car with missing hubcaps - and they always go missing, it's guaranteed. In the end I moved slightly up to a version with alloy wheels (and grey interior, which I like better than tan anyway). I keep telling her the alloy wheels get better gas mileage because they're more aerodynamic, but she just gives me the finger and calls me a liar.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 16:52 |
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Haha, I ended up bying a 2012 Sonata GLS and ended up buying the floor model that had all leather seats. The rear seats are UGLY and there was no way I was paying for the top tier just to get leather seats.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 16:59 |
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One thing I kept noticing and I'm curious about : does nobody buy after-market stereos anymore? I don't see how they sell, because practically every car I looked at had a gigantic dash system going on, with AC, stereo, GPS, etc built in, like this. To get a new stereo in this car you'd have to replace the entire cover plate, not to mention from the CD player down to the on/off knobs is something like 6 inches high. It's ridiculous. I feel like if the knob pops off of the stereo I'm gonna find out the entire thing is wired together and costs $2,000 to replace. Then again, I guess the kind of market I'm in isn't exactly the same market as the people buying nice aftermarket stereos.LorneReams posted:Haha, I ended up bying a 2012 Sonata GLS and ended up buying the floor model that had all leather seats. The rear seats are UGLY and there was no way I was paying for the top tier just to get leather seats. jackpot fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jul 9, 2012 |
# ? Jul 9, 2012 17:16 |
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# ? Apr 19, 2024 15:23 |
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So what's the consensus on Old Jeeps? I've always loved the brand and want to buy an Old Jeep beater someday.
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# ? Jul 9, 2012 17:27 |