|
Crap! One of my front wheels is stripped at the hex nut now. The wheel nuts keep coming loose every now and then (using new ones) and then the inside of the rim strips. Are 17mm wheel hexes the solution?
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2012 20:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
My brother and I used to race Team Associated electric cars about 15 or so years go (god its been that long). Anyway, he was talking with our father about maybe taking the old cars out of the attic and getting them running again. So, for his birthday that is coming up I went and bought him one of these Losi Micro Truck. Now, before you give me the whole poo poo about how its not that great (I have no idea if it is or isn't) he lives in an apartment with his wife so I figured it would be perfect for small spaces. I wanted to get him a little piece of nostalgia, please tell me I did ok.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 03:17
|
|
|
the losi micros are good fun indoors. i had the desert truck (identical to that one but with a different body and wheels) and it was a blast.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 07:23
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:Crap! One of my front wheels is stripped at the hex nut now. I had this problem on my SC10 4x4, and it was solved by going to good aluminum hexes with a set screw. You couldn't tighten the wheels enough on the plastic hexes without binding the hub bearing up. The aluminum hexes allows you to put a little more clamping force on the wheel nut without putting excess pressure on the bearing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 16:15
|
|
|
TotalLossBrain posted:Crap! One of my front wheels is stripped at the hex nut now. I've found the solution to be using the wheel nuts with the nylon lock ring in them (I got mine from the local hardware store for like 10 cents a piece). The ones with the flanged head on the nut that has lines cast into it to work as a locking mechanism always loosen up in my experience. I also run the rpm hexes, which fit a little tighter than the traxxas ones. Really the nylon ringed nut should fix it though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2012 19:23
|
|
|
I finally had some time to get into the Slash diffs to check them out and fill them with fluid. Good thing I did, because neither of them had any fluid, and only 1 had a bit of grease! I filled them up with 10k in the front, and 5k in the rear. Holy poo poo, the thing drives so much easier now. It was previously very hard to get into the throttle without the truck fishtailing or pulling wildly, and now I know that it was because the diffs were completely open! As a side note I'd like to add that while I had heard that getting into 4x4 SC racing was more "maintenance heavy" than 2wd, the Slash 4x4 is a breeze to work on. Both diffs slide out of their housings with the removal of only a couple screws, and generally every part on the truck is accessible with minimal effort.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2012 02:43
|
|
|
ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I finally had some time to get into the Slash diffs to check them out and fill them with fluid. Good thing I did, because neither of them had any fluid, and only 1 had a bit of grease! I filled them up with 10k in the front, and 5k in the rear. Holy poo poo, the thing drives so much easier now. It was previously very hard to get into the throttle without the truck fishtailing or pulling wildly, and now I know that it was because the diffs were completely open! Yeah told you the slash 4x4 was pretty easy to maintain, by the way as I have said previously consider upgrading the motor mount to one which use the big bearings because that bearing is already poo poo on my 2 months old slash and I clean it after each session. Once or twice the bearing was actually stuck and you couldn't rotate it by hand but soaking it in wd40 a few times fixed it for now
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2012 14:38
|
|
|
Rabble posted:My brother and I used to race Team Associated electric cars about 15 or so years go (god its been that long). Anyway, he was talking with our father about maybe taking the old cars out of the attic and getting them running again. So, for his birthday that is coming up I went and bought him one of these Losi Micro Truck. I just pulled out my RC10T that I bought new back in the early nineties. I pulled out all the electronics and installed a Traxxas TQI radio and 6000KV brushless system with 3s li-po's. I've just did the RPM 2.65 conversion, after I tore up the vintage Thorp diff gear by melting it. I found some RPM arms and just ordered a set of 3/16 bearings and MIP CVD's to beef up the drivetrain. This thing is ridiculous, even with the throttle limit set to 50%. It certainly never ran anything like this, even on 7s Ni-Cad's and a modified brushed motor. I'm sure I'll end up breaking and replacing evey part on it(and spending tons of $$$ in the process), but it's worth it. I even still have my Tekin BC210 peak charger and Novak Tempest speed controller from back in the day. Eventually I'll break out my 20 year old RC10L and give it the same treatment.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2012 22:59
|
|
|
Meathole posted:I just pulled out my RC10T that I bought new back in the early nineties. I pulled out all the electronics and installed a Traxxas TQI radio and 6000KV brushless system with 3s li-po's. I've just did the RPM 2.65 conversion, after I tore up the vintage Thorp diff gear by melting it. I found some RPM arms and just ordered a set of 3/16 bearings and MIP CVD's to beef up the drivetrain. This thing is ridiculous, even with the throttle limit set to 50%. 2 years ago at our local tracks, one of the local pros (he's sponsored by AE and Jconcepts) ran a vintage (gold tub) RC10 in the stock buggy class (with a few modifications and modern power plant) and still placed very high in the A main. It was cool seeing a classic car run with B4's and XXX's.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 02:02
|
|
|
Rabble posted:My brother and I used to race Team Associated electric cars about 15 or so years go (god its been that long). Anyway, he was talking with our father about maybe taking the old cars out of the attic and getting them running again. So, for his birthday that is coming up I went and bought him one of these Losi Micro Truck. You did fine. I have one just for when I want to run indoors (winter time) and it's a really, really fun little truck. All the parts are replaceable and cheap as hell but they're drat near indestructible anyway. Stock it's about 12mph, but upgraded they can be around 20. They're pretty highly reviewed, so I think he'll enjoy the heck out of it. The first upgrade for these though should be to buy the threaded axles. They're only around $10 and save HUGE headaches. The stupid little clips that hold the tires on are incredibly easy to lose and a pain in the rear end to put back on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 14:58
|
|
|
ColonelJohnMatrix posted:2 years ago at our local tracks, one of the local pros (he's sponsored by AE and Jconcepts) ran a vintage (gold tub) RC10 in the stock buggy class (with a few modifications and modern power plant) and still placed very high in the A main. It was cool seeing a classic car run with B4's and XXX's. Oh god, we still have a couple of these (one gold and one black tub) in running condition somewhere in the attic, plus a buggy & truck one generation newer. Maybe next time I'm back at home I'll take inventory and some photos. I feel so goddamn old when the hobby I had when I was a kid is now "vintage" Rabble fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jun 30, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 17:46
|
|
|
The RC10 Worlds Edition (black tub) was my first racing buggy after having a Grasshopper - every now and then I try looking them up on eBay but I haven't found one at a reasonable price yet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 18:38
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:The RC10 Worlds Edition (black tub) was my first racing buggy after having a Grasshopper - every now and then I try looking them up on eBay but I haven't found one at a reasonable price yet. I had one of those! Loved the poo poo out of it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2012 19:01
|
|
|
Got a guy who fancies a summit as he wants something with good speed and to crawl occasionally. I think he'll get bored with the summit. Any suggestions? (friend in work already suggested the scx10 with a motor upgrade.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 15:22
|
|
|
A bit of crossposting from the monster truck thread, but here are a few of the trucks we had for our Open House. A couple buddies did a nice r/c demo around the crushed cars. To answer your last question, I actually got to drive a Traxxas Summit (both full size and mini) over the weekend at the demo, and they are cool trucks. I loved being able to lock my diffs on the transmitter. I took it over a set of cars that we crushed, and it was quite fun trying to get across all the twisted steel and broken glass. If you want a cool basher that can do a bit of everything (and have quite a bit of dough to burn) it's a cool truck. He was doing cyclone donuts with it one second, and then was on a set of rocks. The CG is too high to be a great crawler, and it's too heavy to be an awesome jumper, but it can do a bit of each and it's fun. My buddy who owns the Summit tried the crush cars after me (he's not used to hardcore crawling) and snapped an axle shaft because he was going too fast and a tire got wedged. Anyways, yeah, they are cool trucks....of course the Axial SCX10 loving owns bones for everything not involving speed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 16:41
|
|
|
is that a lunch box? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 16:44
|
|
|
front wing flexing posted:is that a lunch box? Yeah, there are 3 lunch boxes there, actually. The van (which is a tribute to the old Rollin' Thunder monster van, look in the monster truck thread) with Clod tires, and the two yellow trucks are also lunch box chassis. My friend owns all of those trucks. He also has a few TXT-1s and Clods not pictured. His 6x6 custom semi clod is awesome. It actually has 6 wheel steering, where the back axles are tied together to steer the same way. edit - that blue fifties pickup truck with Juggernaut tires is a Midnight Pumpkin, which is the same thing as a lunch box. double edit - here are some shots of his other trucks  Custom Clod with Jumbo Kong tires.    This is a shot of his fleet from several years ago.  This is a Grave Digger replica, but he also has a garbage truck body for it for bashing. Here are a couple other replicas that another friend of mine has painted (he's the guy who did my awesome rusted out crawler body) -  
ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jul 2, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 17:03
|
|
|
Cool trucks right there. I decided to completely tear my Stampede 4x4 down a couple days ago. I figured it was time for new bearings all around after six months of abuse. One of the steering turnbuckles is bent and needs replaced. I found the differentials just about dry. Just enough oil/grease/sludge on the spider gears to work, but nothing else. The LHS is always hit or miss on some surprisingly common parts, so I didn't even try this time. I just ordered everything off Amain. I should get a new body, too - but I am a bit intimidated by painting.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2012 22:34
|
|
|
Since I revived my RC10T I've been thinking about getting something else to bash with. I love Team Associated for some reason, and found the Monster GT 8.0 and watched some videos. It looks like ridiculous fun, has tons of power, and you can get them all day long for under $500. Does anyone have experience with these? I haven't really seen anything else in that price range that tickles my fancy as much as the MGT. I already have an NTC3 that I bought when it came out(with an O.S. .18 CV-R), but I want something I can drive anywhere and won't break something every time I take it out. Plus nitro cars are cool, even if most of them are slower than modern brushless electrics.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2012 23:15
|
|
|
The Thunder Tiger version might be cheaper since it doesn't have the AE name attached to it. I can't remember what it's called off the top of my head, but IIRC they're identical trucks. e: eh scratch that, the first version of the MGT had a TT twin, not sure about the 8.0 version. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Jul 4, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 4, 2012 09:32
|
|
|
krushgroove posted:The Thunder Tiger version might be cheaper since it doesn't have the AE name attached to it. I can't remember what it's called off the top of my head, but IIRC they're identical trucks. Thanks krushgroove. I happened to be online today and saw a 1-day only 4th of July coupon at amainhobbies.com for 10% off, which I couldn't pass up. Ended up buying an MGT 8.0, 3 quarts of 20%. a stick pack for the starter and a receiver pack for $530 shipped to my door. Should be in within a week and then the break-in will begin. I have an enormous complex across the street with tons of grass, dirt, rocks, and a huge skate park to bash around in. I was fgoing to try to find a light;y used on on e-bay, but $439 for a brand new one sounded like th ebest bet.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 04:56
|
|
|
What is a good, affordable setup station for 1/10 Touring?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 05:51
|
|
|
Laserface posted:What is a good, affordable setup station for 1/10 Touring? Do you want an anodized aluminum/acrylic plastic setup, or one you can get together on your own? If you want to get your own, get these bits: - Droop gauge from your favorite company (personally I never saw the point of getting one that requires the Hudy-style droop blocks) - Camber gauge like the RPM one - For the actual setup board look for sheet acrylic in a size big enough for you (that will fit in your hauler bag) - I've seen people use sheets of glass from a DIY store (don't drop it) all the way to honeycomb woven graphite (if you know someone on an F1 team)...it just needs to be flat and sturdy
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2012 08:52
|
|
|
Some guys were wanting me to dig out the old r/c truck & tractor pulling sleds to get a pull going in a little bit. I've contacted the NRCTPA about becoming a charter club in St. Louis. The sled on the left is an early 90's Aristocraft Draggin' Waggon sled. The heavy duty truck pulling sled on the right was machined totally in house at our families machine shop to be very much like a real 1:1 sled. I used to run some truck pulling classes with t-maxxes and clods about 10 years ago. I'm going to clean her off, re-oil her, and get it ready for some more pulling. I'm going to figure out a way to set up a 2wd slash class with minimal mods needed. Stampede tires will fit on a Slash rear, yes? So many people have Slashes here that hopefully it will be a good starter class for many to try it. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 02:35
|
|
|
I've tried looking up how to build pulling sleds for various RC bash events, but never found any plans online. Is it literally a trailer chassis, with a pulley at the front, a track on top and a cable that goes around one axle?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 10:25
|
|
|
The dragon wagon more or less is, but it doesnt work well. My machined sled has a chain drive from the wheels connected to an idler pulley on a shaft. That shaft has a sprocket connected to the weight box drive train (chain on top). Ill post some detailed pics today. My brother and dad are both engineers and it took a couple days to map it all out. Real pull tracks are about 300 feet, so we designed the hear ratio on ours top out around 25 feet, so trucks are stopped around the 30 foot mark....thus being a perfect 1:10 scale to the real thing. Im going to disassemble it at work for cleaning, so it will make more sense in the pics.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 13:00
|
|
|
My latest toy. This thing is a hoot to drive man. My first short coarse(ish) type of model. put a VXL 3S in it (on 2S though)
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 19:41
|
|
|
edit - Nevermind, already sold.
TremorX fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jul 6, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 20:32
|
|
|
Is it as much of a pain to get at the insides of it as people say? I thought it looked really cool but it sounds like a pain to even get the battery out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 21:42
|
|
|
Evil Ash, that buggy is loving awesome! So I took the sled a part today, cleaned it off, re-oiled it, and mounted up some Slash wheels & tires with stiff foams...and it's ready to pull! Here are a couple detailed shots of what it looks like and how it operates.        I insert the pin into the chain (via a hole in the weights and box). It engages just like a roller coaster lift. As the truck pulls the box, it's geared to top out at about 26 foot. When it tops out, the pin pops out of the drive and "floats" at the front of the top sprocket. This keeps it directly on top without locking up the wheels. When the pull is done, just pull the pin and box slides back to rear pin. Push the sled back, reinsert pin, and go pulling again. The sled also has a thin lexan "mud guard" that isn't installed. My brother designed it pretty ingeniously on CAD, cut out the sides & pan on our CNC machine, and ordered the sprockets from McMaster Carr. It's going to be finished out in "Busch Beer" livery like a classic sled that was at all the local tractor pulls around the late 80's - early 2000s in St. Louis, MO.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 21:48
|
|
|
powderific posted:Is it as much of a pain to get at the insides of it as people say? I thought it looked really cool but it sounds like a pain to even get the battery out. It's not too bad, I left the interior out which greatly simplifies it. Not bad at all if you go through the front window 
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 22:54
|
|
|
Ah, cool. I don't care all that much about the interior myself. Ever since I finished the Dingo I've been looking for another kit to build and that one looked pretty fun.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2012 23:15
|
|
|
Well, after all the fun I've had in three weeks of owning a brushless 4WD Stampede, I'm bringing my T-Maxx out of storage and attempting to rebuild it after five years of having it sitting around. I've begun the process of ordering missing/broken parts online, and I've disassembled and regreased the transmission/differentials. Any special care I should be taking with the engine? I hope everything ends up working after all these years 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2012 23:11
|
|
|
illcendiary posted:Well, after all the fun I've had in three weeks of owning a brushless 4WD Stampede, I'm bringing my T-Maxx out of storage and attempting to rebuild it after five years of having it sitting around. I've begun the process of ordering missing/broken parts online, and I've disassembled and regreased the transmission/differentials. Any special care I should be taking with the engine? I hope everything ends up working after all these years You may want to pull off the air filter and put a little fuel/ARO/or some kind of thin lube in there and crak it over to lube everything before you attempt to fire it up. Maybe pull off the clutch bell and hit it and the shoes with some sandpaper. I'm sur there will be other suggestions, but once you get it running I'd take it easy for a little and make sure everything is working as it should(linkages, no slipping in the drivetrain, etc). Depending on how it was put away the carb may be gummed up. Every time I tire of my NTC-3 it sits for a year or two before I pull it out again, but I haven't really had any issues, even with fuel sitting in it and basically throwing it in the closet when I'm done with it. On another note, I've been running the 10T around at 50% power after the new tranny, RPM arms, and CVD's. Decided to turn it up to 100% this evening just for fun. It is holy gently caress fast and absolutely will not keep all 4 wheels on the ground, even at 30-40+ MPH. I have no idea how fast it goes, but its insane. After about ten minutes 3 teeth busted straight off the idler gear, so I've got a couple of extras on the way and reprogrammed the ESC to 50%. I can see why 4WD is almost a necessity with this kind of power, and I can see that I made the right decision to fit it with 3s power and a 6,000 KV motor. The MGT 8.0 will be here Wednesday, so I'll get to work on breaking it in and hopefully get to have some nitro fun next weekend.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2012 02:42
|
|
|
Anyone of you fine gentlemen have an Axial Ridgecrest? Got some $ and I need a fun trail/bash truck. I may also use it for a bit of truck pulling with my sled. It's between that and a Wraith most likely. I just want something RTR that can do some trailing/mudding/crawling without any modification. edit - I see the HPI crawler king is in stock at all the big online hobby shops, and it's only half the price. I may just go with one of those. As most of you know from me posting a million pics everyday, I loved my SCX10....but that drat truck is a money pit and I can't afford to have one while running my racing trucks. The Venom Safari looks like another option, but I'm a bit iffy on Venom products. ColonelJohnMatrix fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jul 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 15:43
|
|
|
I think the HPI Crawler King's super high body with relatively low chassis looks really weird, and I'd think it wouldn't be too kind on CG either. If you go venom you might need to do some extra water sealing before mudding—it seems like I've seen a lot of videos where they glitch out because they aren't as watertight as the descriptions claim. Why would the SCX10 be more of a money pit than a Wraith or Ridgecrest? Doesn't seem like the cost is that much different. Unless you're referring to all those bodies, ha.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 16:51
|
|
|
powderific posted:I think the HPI Crawler King's super high body with relatively low chassis looks really weird, and I'd think it wouldn't be too kind on CG either. Of course I'm referring to all those bodies (and wheels)! The scx10 was like expensive R/C crack for me. The other big thing that I like about the Wraith/Ridgecrest is that they have a higher ground clearance and seem to be able to go over more terrain. I'm not necessarily looking for a scaler this time around...more so a vehicle that I can bash over a couple jumps, go through a mud pit, and then do some rocks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 18:18
|
|
|
Fair enough there. I thought the UltimateRC review of the Wraith gave some good thoughts on how it handles as a basher on jumps and at speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjQTIgThVFY It's not going to crawl, but for jumping and boggin the Savage XS looks like a blast. Even the "rock racing" wraith doesn't look like it'd be that fun on jumps. I love crawling though, and non scalers handle way different--even my 1/18th Losi MRC can take on certain things that the SCX10 doesn't do great on.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 21:40
|
|
|
powderific posted:Fair enough there. Yeah, I checked out numerous reviews and message board postings over the last couple days. And the winner is....an AX10 Ridgecrest! Tower Hobbies was running a free shipping offer in tandem with $30 off orders over 270, so I just got the RTR for 279 out the door. That's a pretty drat good deal. I sold one of my r/c pulling sleds on ebay today for 200 (not the big blue one, it was the smaller black one) so I figure it's not much extra I have to kick in. The Wraith is just too expensive and top heavy for what I want. I mainly want to be able to crawl & run trails, so the AX10 should fit the bill perfectly...of course I will have to get rid of that uglier than sin body though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 21:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:13 |
|
|
ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Anyone of you fine gentlemen have an Axial Ridgecrest? Got some $ and I need a fun trail/bash truck. I may also use it for a bit of truck pulling with my sled. edit* bah missed your last post. It should be plenty of fun to drive man and parts availability shoudl be good. Glad you went Axial over HPI. Honestly I'd go Wraith. I love mine. The Ridgecrest is based on the same axles and tranny, but it's really just an attempt to compete in the crawler king market IMO. It just looks a little odd as well. Attempts to mod it have been mixed. The Wraith no matter what you do to it always looks awesome. It's a nice hybrid between crawling and bashing. spend the extra dough, you wont be sorry. heres my fun little project: 
Evil_Ash fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jul 10, 2012 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2012 22:14
|
|