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kimbo305 posted:The car that comes up most frequently as a substitute for the Civic/Corolla is the 2008-2010 Focus. It's nothing special, but cheaper and reliable. Any reason 2008-2010? Some research I did on my own between my post and your reply revealed that a Focus might be a good pick, and I found some 2006's at a local dealership for a reasonable price. On https://www.carcomplaints.com I didn't see any major problems with the post 2004 years. Any reason you know of to stay away from a Focus made pre-'08?
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Jul 9, 2012 23:11
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I've got an 06 3 door. As far as I'm aware no MAJOR problems, but the interior is all cheap plastic panels and lots of rattles. Some minor electric stuff. In fact, it's decent enough that despite the hassle of my 3 door being too small it's still running well enough that I can't really justify getting rid of it. I've always gotten under the expected mpg and I'm not a very aggressive driver.
Eglamore fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 10, 2012 02:15
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Any reason 2008-2010? Some research I did on my own between my post and your reply revealed that a Focus might be a good pick, and I found some 2006's at a local dealership for a reasonable price. On https://www.carcomplaints.com I didn't see any major problems with the post 2004 years. Any reason you know of to stay away from a Focus made pre-'08? 2008 was the year the new(er) body style came out. Crash test ratings were marginally improved over the 2001-06 generation and there are a bunch of new features like SYNC. The 2001-6 generation didn't get really reliable until after 2004.
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Jul 10, 2012 04:42
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Radio Talmudist posted:So what's the consensus on Old Jeeps? I've always loved the brand and want to buy an Old Jeep beater someday. To do what? Daily commuters? gently caress no. Rumble down fire trails on BLM land. gently caress yes! You should ask in the Jeep thread in AI.
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Jul 10, 2012 04:47
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Radio Talmudist posted:So what's the consensus on Old Jeeps? I've always loved the brand and want to buy an Old Jeep beater someday. Oxford Comma posted:To do what? Daily commuters? gently caress no. Rumble down fire trails on BLM land. gently caress yes! You should ask in the Jeep thread in AI. Also, a bunch of congressmen yesterday are asking Chrysler to investigate wobbling in Wranglers when moving at speed and hitting a bump. But it's just due to the off-road ready nature of the Wrangler. So now you've people who bought it but never take it off-road complain the trade off (off road capable vehicle vs standard road fare) sucks rear end so Chrysler is all  .The point is, get a Jeep if you will actually take it off roading. Otherwise, consider the choices and trade offs.
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Jul 10, 2012 14:44
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Ulysses S. Grant posted:Proposed Budget: 10k (15k at the most) I like the idea of people posting what they ended up buying - I test drove a few 2nd generation Priuses and seriously disliked it. I fit in the car fine, but there was something about driving it that really didn't click right with me. I ended up picking up a 2010 Honda Insight EX w/ navigation for $14k, and I love it 
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Jul 10, 2012 19:27
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This is a collection of questions. I'm looking to get my first vehicle(I have my license and pretty much everything I need except the car itself and paperwork.), because I'm in a social desert of a suburb outside Madison, and I've realized I pretty much need a vehicle if I want to do something. I've determined I can afford the general maintenance/gas/insurance fees fairly easily (All together, I'm betting on it being sub $300, and that's aiming very high, grabbing random quotes using commonly suggested cheapass vehicles. A 2008 Honda Civic demands $60 a month insurance from Progressive, in example. The other $240 is gas/tune-ups/savings for paranoia when it explodes) Problem is, of course, while I can afford the maintenance, I kinda need the vehicle itself, so here goes the planning and saving phase. Proposed Budget: $5k or Lowest reasonable. New or Used: Used Body Style: Any Will Do How will you be using the car?: Semi Regular trips into the city, which is a 10-20 mile round trip endeavor, let's say twice a week. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability more than anything else. I've no certainty that my financial situation will improve. The general question is, what's the most responsibly cheap rear end piece of crap that will reliably run for quite some time? I understand going for the cheapest possible thing is foolish - what's the point of buying something that will instantly break down? Scanning over the last 10 pages, there are a few requests for the $5k range, but they have higher demands(commuting), and I'm wondering if my situation alters it any. My gut leans towards throw money together to get to the $5k mark and get an aforementioned Honda Civic or likewise, but I figure it can't hurt to ask.
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Jul 11, 2012 00:12
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Proposed Budget: $25k New or Used: Either Body Style: RWD car. I prefer smaller vehicles. How will you be using the car?: 30 mile round trip daily commute plus occasional weekend autocross. What aspects are most important to you?: Must be interesting to drive. Either power and / or good steering & brake feel, with a decent manual transmission. I'm coming from a Miata with 170k miles on it, and my first candidate would be just a new Miata. I think I should give other options serious consideration, so point me to other cars to test drive. I'm going to seriously consider the 2011+ Mustang GT, but I'm worried about total cost of ownership as I'm planning to keep this car a long, long time. I worry that the 18mpg would hurt compared to the Miata's 25. I'm very open to strange used car suggestions, but I need the car to either be reliable OR straightforward for me to fix. My coworker with similar desires got a 2004 Lotus Elise last year, but after finding out it's a 5 hour job to change the coolant or air filter, I'm afraid of too exotic a car. The Miata is just incredibly appealing, why can't anyone else make a simple sports car? Especially because I really don't care about options or convenience features, and know I could get a new Miata very cheap by cross shopping several dealers and not caring at all about specific add-ons. Also, I'm curious about the best thing to do with my current car. I'm not looking to replace it immediately, but it's got some serious age on it and something major will likely go wrong in the next year. I'm afraid of a daily driver that's rapidly approaching 200k miles. Would it be better to try to sell it private party before something big goes wrong, squeeze every last mile out of it before the engine needs a rebuild, or just hang on to it, rebuild the engine, and drive it forever instead of getting a new car? It needs a rear main seal replacement, which I've been putting off until it needs a clutch as well, and the soft top leaks a little around the passenger window. Edit: What are the current car tips for getting the best deal on the financial side? I have pretty good credit, 750+ FICO, so I might qualify for 0% if I finance it, or I could just write a check and buy it cash. How big are the non-interest costs attached to financing? What's the downside, assuming I can get a very low APR? Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 17:03
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Weinertron posted:Proposed Budget: $25k Mazda RX-8 R3.You said you don't want extras and options, but the R3 has grippy leather lined Recaros, Bilstein shocks, stiffened front crossmember and forged BBS wheels which sound like the kind of thing you might like and will help with resale down the road. Hyundai Genesis V6, another. Looks good on paper with the Brembo brakes and all but boy there aren't many of these out there with the manual. Haven't heard of any major reliability issues with these, not with the manual anyway and it will still be under factory warranty. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 17:39
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Weinertron posted:Proposed Budget: $25k Scion FR-S / Toyota GT 86 / Subaru BRZ These are all the same car (joint venture) and pretty much match your expectations to a tee.
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Jul 11, 2012 18:44
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Proposed Budget: $5-10k cash New or Used: Used Body Style: Don't care. How will you be using the car?: City driving. Let's call it 250-300 miles a week. Occassional highway trips out of town, but I'm largely driving to work/having a social life. What aspects are most important to you?: Fuel economy and reliability. I'm driving a '81 C1500 right now. It's costing me $100/week in gas and $500+ in repairs every 4 months (just got a water pump. In December I got a new fuel pump). I also want a common vehicle so when it does break down parts are easy to come by. Bonus points for being incredible easy to work on (I'm no mechanic, but I change my own oil). I'm also in Canada, so if you could recommend a car that won't suck rear end on ice that'd be much appreciated. I'm naturally looking at Civics (early 2000s), but I'm open to any suggestions. If you can fit a bicycle in it + camping gear, I'll be overjoyed. I can't drive standard.
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Jul 11, 2012 19:06
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Ahz posted:Scion FR-S / Toyota GT 86 / Subaru BRZ Be sure to let us know what you get, and review it in the AI thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3446803
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Jul 11, 2012 19:42
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reflex posted:
Can't, or won't? Can't can be fixed, and manual transmissions tend to be vastly more reliable, cheaper to fix, and more fuel efficient in older used cars. Especially since used economy cars typically don't see very much preventative or scheduled maintenance, and a neglected automatic transmission is an expensive ticking time bomb. Guinness fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 21:04
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Guinness posted:Can't, or won't? Can't can be fixed, and manual transmissions tend to be vastly more reliable, cheaper to fix, and more fuel efficient in older used cars. Especially since used economy cars typically don't see very much preventative or scheduled maintenance, and a neglected automatic transmission is an expensive ticking time bomb. Moreso I won't be making it a priority in my life anytime soon. I don't have access to a car to learn on, I don't have anyone to teach me with any regularity and I don't really have the time/desire to learn anyhow. Can you just pop into a driving school and get lessons in standard? I plan on buying a used car from an actual dealership if that changes anything (Honda or whatever dealer, not GoAuto). Are dealership inspections generally trustworthy or should I still insist on taking the car to my garage before I buy?
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Jul 11, 2012 21:34
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reflex posted:Moreso I won't be making it a priority in my life anytime soon. I don't have access to a car to learn on, I don't have anyone to teach me with any regularity and I don't really have the time/desire to learn anyhow. Can you just pop into a driving school and get lessons in standard? You can buy a car that's stick and man up. Just give it a little more gas than you think it needs when you're completely new and try not to drive it home from where you bought it during rush hour. The worst thing you'll do is stall it a couple times.
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Jul 11, 2012 21:42
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Throatwarbler posted:Mazda RX-8 R3.You said you don't want extras and options, but the R3 has grippy leather lined Recaros, Bilstein shocks, stiffened front crossmember and forged BBS wheels which sound like the kind of thing you might like and will help with resale down the road.
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Jul 12, 2012 04:01
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About how much should I be paying for a 2005 Civic with 100k miles? It's listed at 7,500, but my cousin has some leverage with the dealer and might be able to bump it down some.
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Jul 12, 2012 16:11
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:About how much should I be paying for a 2005 Civic with 100k miles? It's listed at 7,500, but my cousin has some leverage with the dealer and might be able to bump it down some. Use kbb.com and nadaguides.com with your location to get an idea.
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Jul 12, 2012 16:16
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My wife and I are looking for a second car. We own/share one car, while I have a motorcycle and she has a scooter. We rarely "need" a second car but when we do it sucks (bad weather, hauling poo poo, passengers, etc) so we have decided to look into buying a second car as a 'backup' vehicle to be driven sparingly. Proposed Budget: $5-10k cash New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan or maybe a pickup if we find a great deal. How will you be using the car?: City driving, perhaps a highway trip every so often What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability I found a local dealer who is selling a 2003 Audi A4 quattro Turbo with 90k miles for $8,900. I have always liked A4s but don't know much about their maintenance requirements or long term performance. What price should I offer on this particular vehicle, or should I look for another make and model? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
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Jul 12, 2012 17:08
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Unzip and Attack posted:What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability Look for another car. If you want an affordable car that is going to be reliable, 2000-2005 Volkswagen group cars are the wrong direction.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:13
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:About how much should I be paying for a 2005 Civic with 100k miles? It's listed at 7,500, but my cousin has some leverage with the dealer and might be able to bump it down some. Depends on the trim level of the car. Too much for a base model stripper car, could be reasonable for a higher trim level vehicle. If I was buying that car I would want to make sure that the timing belt service has already been done properly, or else your looking at 600 to 700 dollar job almost immediately.
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Jul 12, 2012 17:20
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Unzip and Attack posted:What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability If reliability and affordability is your top concern, do not buy a 10 year old Audi, or any 10 year old European car for that matter. Audi/VW products from the late 90s and early/mid 2000s are especially notorious for bad build quality and shoddy electrics. I love me some Euro cars, I've owned a couple of BMWs, they're fantastic, but statistically they are just not going to be as cheap to own as a Japanese/American/Korean economy car. Everything from oil changes, tires, and brakes to major scheduled (or unscheduled!) maintenance is going to carry a premium of some degree. For instance, an oil change on my 2004 330ci costs about $60 to do myself (6 quarts of 0w40 synthetic at $9/qt + $5-10 for a new filter cartridge) compared to about $25 on my old 1995 Mazda Miata (4 quarts of 5w30 standard oil at $4/qt + $5-10 for a filter). Granted the change interval is twice as long on the BMW as on the Mazda... It also really depends on your definition of "reliable". If you're looking solely for an appliance car and reliable means "I expect everything to work even though I neglect all regular/scheduled maintenance and ignore problems/warning lights/funny sounds until something stops the car from being drivable", then DO NOT buy any European car, or any higher end car regardless of country of origin, because you will be in for financial pain when you ignore a few minor problems and they snowball into a huge problem. Neglecting maintenance on a Honda or Toyota will also result in failures and reliability problems, of course, but will typically cost you a lot less to fix. On the other hand, if reliable means "never leaves me stranded, but I keep up on routine/preventative maintenance and don't mind fixing a few problems here and there to ensure that" then it's a different story. But routine/preventative maintenance still costs money, but a whole lot less than fixing catastrophic failure. Most Euro cars require that you stay fairly on top of scheduled maintenance to stay reliable, or else it will come back to bite you in a big way. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 18:50
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:About how much should I be paying for a 2005 Civic with 100k miles? It's listed at 7,500, but my cousin has some leverage with the dealer and might be able to bump it down some. I've been looking at used cars in this price range for a while now. That isn't wildly overpriced but it isn't a great deal either. If you pass it up I doubt you would have a problem finding a better deal fairly quickly if you watch Craigslist like a hawk. The way I think about is that I could buy a brand new Civic for $17,000. A well built car probably has a total lifespan of about 200k miles if you take care of it well. $7.5k is a little under half the cost of the car, which has about half its lifespan left. But the second half of the cars life is going to be much more expensive than the first half and it won't have any resale value left at the end, so compared to buying new I don't know that this is a great deal. I'm not saying go buy a new car (I don't), it's just a metric I use to see whether I'm getting a good deal.
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Jul 12, 2012 21:06
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Never pay the asking price for a used car at a dealership. The list price is almost always a hilarious markup for idiots. It's expected that you will negotiate. Last time I shopped for a used car at dealerships, I went to about a dozen and in every case if there was a car I was vaguely interested in, one of my first questions was "eh it's OK, but can you work with me on this price?" and the answer was invariably "yes." Then you do your investigation, maybe do a test drive, and then leave without buying the car (no matter how much they sob and wail). Write down all the details, go home, and google the poo poo out of that car, maybe ask AI if you're confused, sleep on it, and in a day or four, you can call back and see if they've still got it and then go check it out one more time and if you're sure you like it, you can start negotiating price. Settle the price before talking about how you will pay. The best time to get a deal is in the last couple days of the month, because many lots/salesmen have quotas or incentives to sell x number of cars per month and they will be more willing to make a deal that gets them very little profit if it means meeting a quota. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 23:18
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One thing I learned a few days ago, which surprised me, is get ready for an attempted loving on the interest rate if you finance through the dealership. The first place I asked for a price quoted me 5.99%, and the second place told me 6.99%  . Jesus, my five year old niece has a credit rating worth better than that. The guy even had the gall to act indignant when we laughed at him; he came dangerously close to calling my wife a liar when she told him that her rate, three months ago when buying a used Sentra, was around 3.85%.
jackpot fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 19:12
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jackpot posted:One thing I learned a few days ago, which surprised me, is get ready for an attempted loving on the interest rate if you finance through the dealership. The first place I asked for a price quoted me 5.99%, and the second place told me 6.99% This should go without question whenever you go to purchase a car from a dealer. 1)Get a quote from your local bank and get a quote from a local credit union. 2)Take the better of the two to the dealer and keep it in your back pocket. 3)Offer to finance through the dealer if they can beat the bank/CU quote. 4)If they beat it, keep an eye on fees and make sure they don't gently caress you on that end. 4a) If they don't beat it/only match it, stick with the back pocket quote. Edit: Anecdote incoming! I've got good credit and my wife has only okay credit. Together, we were still able to qualify for a 2.93% rate through our main checking bank (as of last month). That beats almost all manufacturer special APR rates. Thwomp fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 20:43
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I have 1998 VW Jetta with pretty low mileage for its age, about 98K. I just got it back from the dealer after complaining of a slipping transmission. They said that it was leaking transmission fluid and they fixed the issue causing that, but they also said they found pieces of metal inside which can't be good. They said there's the possibility of a transmission replacement in the future because of that. Does my transmission sound doomed? They also said that my control arm bushings were getting worn and will need replacement soon? Is this the kind of thing that will cause my wheels to come off on the highway if I ignore it too long? I'm pretty sure the answers to these will make me get a new car sooner rather than later.
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Jul 13, 2012 21:37
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I'll be buying a car sometime in the next year or so. I just got a large raise at work and my 16 year old Subaru Legacy is getting a bit long in the tooth. I've managed to narrow my choice down to two cars, but I am open to similar recommendations. Base stipulations: It must be a midsize sedan with ~60k miles or less, $15-20k, AWD, fairly fast, good handling and preferably a manual transmission. The safe option: A Subaru Legacy GT from 2008 or 2009. Preferably in the 17-20k range and preferably a spec B if I can get it. Obviously I'd go a little higher for the spec B, and expect the price to be a bit lower for a limited. This is the safe option due to Subaru reliability and it being a slightly newer car. This is also the slightly more expensive option up front but probably cheaper in the long run. The riskier option: A Volvo S60R from 2006 or 2007. Again the preferred price range is about the same but should get me a slightly lower mileage car for a given price than the Spec B. On the plus side the S60R is a faster, better handling (I think?) significantly more comfortable car with a very nice sound system and the nicest seats I've ever sat in. The downside is that it doesn't have the Subaru's reliability, parts will be more expensive, and it gets slightly worse gas mileage. That said from what I've seen it's probably the best value on the used market when it comes to a fast comfortable midsize sedan with AWD and pretty good reliability. So please share your opinions. You're welcome to propose other cars, though I'm fairly certain it's going to be one of these two. I'd love any comparisons from people who have driven both as I have yet to get around to test driving the Legacy GT. Either way it will be at least 6 months before I'm ready to buy but I like to do my research. Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 22:26
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jerkstore77 posted:I have 1998 VW Jetta with pretty low mileage for its age, about 98K. This is exactly the sort of mechanics question that you'd ideally ask in the AI stickied stupid-questions thread. That said: you have a 1998 VW automatic transmission? Yes, it is ultimately doomed. However, if you keep it maintained, it could last for quite a while before it goes. Control arm bushings are not really a critical component in terms of "will the car kill me". However, once the bushings are shot, the moving parts wear against eachother more, and your suspension is also looser and more prone to damaging itself, not keeping aligned, and wearing out your tires. It is a good idea to get this fixed while it's still (relatively) inexpensive, rather than waiting until it's a much more expensive repair. Oh and... why on earth are are you taking it to the dealer? Do you prefer to pay between double and triple the going rate for mechanical service? Cars that are in warranty go to dealers for warranty service. Exotic and high-end luxury cars go to the dealer because you're rich and want the most luxurious of german lubricants or whatever. For everyone else, get a well-recommended local mechanic, unless you hate money.
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Jul 13, 2012 23:54
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On the new mustang:nm posted:That said, the auto v6 is geared terribly, so I'd highly recommend a manual. Can you elaborate on 'geared terribly'? I just experienced the DC traffic that i'll be dealing with regularly in person and while I'm still looking at getting standard, auto is looking more appealing.
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Jul 14, 2012 03:52
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Necc0 posted:On the new mustang: It is geared for fuel economy, which makes it less fun than the manual. Disgruntled Bovine posted:I'll be buying a car sometime in the next year or so. I just got a large raise at work and my 16 year old Subaru Legacy is getting a bit long in the tooth. I'm not sure I'd class either of these as reliable cars. These came out of my motor  Note however, that my car is tracked, but the subaru pistons are loving poo poo. That said, it ran at least 30k mi like that (and ran while driving into the shop)m it just burned oil. The good news is that the 6-speed in the spec-B is bulletproof and amazing, so you avoid the 5 speed issues:  (Your 6 speed will never do this.) The S60R. What doesn't break? My friend just got his shocks replaced. OEM they are $1000 per corner and cannot be replaced with standard dampers because they are some fancy electronic thing. Cheaper on the internet but not much. Every single fluid leaks and it isn't worth it to fix. The radiator is leaking. Shortly after a TB belt change, oil is leaking on the TB. Burns oil from somewhere. Angle gear leaks and if you don't check it, it fails. Diff fails on track days like clockwork Etc. . . . The Spec-B has one huge issue that can be fixed when it breaks (forged pistons). The Volvo will nickel and dime you and probably cost the same, maybe a bit more. I love my car, but it is hard to recommend for reliability. It is extremely fun, and they are much more tossable and light than you'd imagine. That said, you should say gently caress it, buy a 2005 Legacy GT wagon with a stick, put forged pistons, reinforced gears, and a good suspension instead. Sedans suck. (Also, Mazdaspeed 6s and S4s have a similar list of issues. Fast mid-sized AWD sedan? You're pretty much screwed.) nm fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jul 14, 2012 |
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Jul 14, 2012 04:09
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I'm helping my significant other shop for a new car. Her current car is a ~2004 Civic Hybrid and it's beginning to have some pretty serious transmission issues so she's ready to unload it before it dies completely. I'm not car-dumb but I also haven't kept up on what the most recommended newer models are. I drive an '05 Saabaru 9-2x aero. Proposed Budget: ~$25-40k New or Used: Either, preferably newer, thinking less than 30k miles Body Style: 4 Door, Wagon or smaller SUV preferred How will you be using the car?: primarily commuting in the city but also roadtrips and driving to the mountain for camping/snowboarding. We live in Portland so Subaru's are incredibly popular here for good reason. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, Good gas mileage, 25-30mpg ideal but not a deal breaker, she'd really like to have some nice gadgets since her old car has none. thinking really usable in-dash navigation, iPod interface stereo, and back-up camera would be great for her. I'm suggesting she takes a look at a Subaru Impreza and Legacy, a Volkswagen Touareg, Honda CRV... maybe even BMW 328i Sport Wagon for the higher-end, not sure what else is in a similar class? Thanks in advance!
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Jul 14, 2012 05:23
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Does she care how it drives? Because if she wants reliability, fuel economy, gadgets galore, in-dash nav, ipod integration, and a backup camera, and doesn't care about how it drives: Prius. No seriously, this is exactly what the prius does. It has more drat gadgets in the loaded models than anything short of an s-class. Better driving: Mazda 3 Skyactiv 2013 Impreza non-turbo Don't rule out Hyundai and Kia. They are amazing, basically all of them, for the price. The fuel economy is perhaps a bit more optimized for the EPA tests than others (somewhat lower real word numbers), but the cars are drat good. Oh and don't recommend a Toureg unless you want to be reminded every month that you recommended the car that is back in the shop, again.
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Jul 14, 2012 06:10
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nm posted:Does she care how it drives? I had confused the Touareg w/ the Tiguan (not sure if that makes a difference) she doesn't care how it drives I don't think, I mean she's been driving a first generation civic hybrid which doesn't (in my opinion) drive so great. the funny thing is we just borrowed her sister's Kia Sorento for a week and we were both really pleasantly surprised by how nice the car felt for being a Kia. Reliability-wise are they really on the up? She really doesn't care that much about brand status so if they're building reliable/fuel-efficient cars then she would definitely consider it. how about the Mazda CX-5? It looks like the grand touring edition would have all of the gadgets she'd want and be in budget w/ decent fuel economy... any reports of how it handles and how reliable it is? MMD3 fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Jul 14, 2012 |
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Jul 14, 2012 08:44
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MMD3 posted:the funny thing is we just borrowed her sister's Kia Sorento for a week and we were both really pleasantly surprised by how nice the car felt for being a Kia. Reliability-wise are they really on the up? She really doesn't care that much about brand status so if they're building reliable/fuel-efficient cars then she would definitely consider it. quote:how about the Mazda CX-5? It looks like the grand touring edition would have all of the gadgets she'd want and be in budget w/ decent fuel economy... any reports of how it handles and how reliable it is? It has the same drive train as a Mazda 3 skyactiv. Surprising light at 3200lbs, so it might drive ok despite only having ~160hp.
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Jul 14, 2012 09:01
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nm posted:
Well the 535xi does have a 10 year 120k warranty on the fuel pump now. How bad could it be? How bad was the last generation S6 with the NA V10?
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Jul 14, 2012 10:31
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Throatwarbler posted:How bad was the last generation S6 with the NA V10? Worse than the S4 2.7TT, if you can believe it.
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Jul 14, 2012 15:51
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Throatwarbler posted:Well the 535xi does have a 10 year 120k warranty on the fuel pump now. How bad could it be? My major concern with 3.0turbo BMWs is the comically long oil change intervals. I know they have magic voodoo sensors, but almost 20k mi on a group III oil on a turbo motor known for heat issues scares me. I can't help but think that because BMW provides free oil changes that hasn't been adjusted to lower costs. Once out of powertrain, it doesn't matter. That said, if you can find one that has been maintained more often imany BMW guys do), it might be a decent choice. Any idea if the cooling systems are better than BMWs of the past?
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Jul 14, 2012 18:46
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nm posted:I have a 2005 Legacy GT and a friend of mine has an S60R... *snip* Thanks for the information. Are either of your cars modded? I did know about the angle gear issue with the S60R as well as an issue with the master cylinder on the manuals. Also it makes sense that the shocks are expensive because of the 4C suspension. I'm surprised to hear that it handles worse than the Spec-B and is slower however. Your friend's S60R is a manual I assume? I don't plan to track the car whatever I get so maybe it will hold up a bit better.
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Jul 15, 2012 00:12
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Thanks for the information. Are either of your cars modded? I did know about the angle gear issue with the S60R as well as an issue with the master cylinder on the manuals. Also it makes sense that the shocks are expensive because of the 4C suspension. I'm surprised to hear that it handles worse than the Spec-B and is slower however. Your friend's S60R is a manual I assume? I don't plan to track the car whatever I get so maybe it will hold up a bit better. My car is quite modded, but again, in comparing the two, I'm taking stock for stock.
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Jul 15, 2012 00:16
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