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Daimo posted:It's an Nvidia made by Club (whoever they are). The system doesn't boot it just hangs before the POST with hard drives ticking slowly. Unfortunately I haven't gotten around to installing a pc speaker yet so can't check beep codes. There's also a possibility that the card is damaged as the postman dropped it through the letterbox Possible it's a BIOS-goof in enumerating your display adapters, but to figure out what exactly is broken, I'd: 1. Try booting system only with the x1 GPU inserted into the PEG slot (where your 460 normally goes) and see what happens. This'll let you know if the x1 is hosed up or not. 2. If that succeeds, maybe try different PCIe slots. I assumed this was a 5 or 6-series board, but it's still got an ICH so you can't run both GPUs off of the PEG port. I don't recall off-hand if there's an issue with trying to run a graphics peripheral off of one of the ICH's PCIe ports (shouldn't be).
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Jul 25, 2012 16:47
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, but it's fine externally. What do you think?
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Daimo posted:There's also a possibility that the card is damaged as the postman dropped it through the letterbox It's not sensitive to impact (absent manufacturing defects). He could have drop kicked it and the worst you'd risk would be a rattly fan (and even that's still unlikely, since the packaging cushions it).
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Jul 25, 2012 18:15
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So I followed the advice of this thread and got two dell u2412s and hooked them up to the retina MacBook pro with thunderbolt -> DVi official apple adapters. The picture quality, while definitely usable, seems to just be a tad blurry text wise vs. my pc setup upstairs with a crappier 23" dell non IPS panel. Text is just not razor sharp like I'm used to - its got more of an .jpg artifact look to it. There are literally no options under display that I can change under system preferences, it just defaults to the default resolution. Everything else looks and works great, the text is just not perfectly crisp like I'm used to. Any suggestions?
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Jul 25, 2012 21:38
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Absent the obvious (like making sure they're both set to output at the native res of the monitor) are you sure you're just not noticing the difference between Windows and Mac font rendering?
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Jul 25, 2012 21:40
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Yeah, Windows renders fonts optimized for screen viewing, trading some accuracy, compared to a printed or high-DPI display, for readability. Ex: Windows on right, Mac on left.  Top: Windows, no Cleartype Middle: Windows, Cleartype Bottom: OS X
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Jul 25, 2012 21:46
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Welp that is exactly what the text looks like. Guess I was just spoiled with the high res notebook display. (and ipad3). I'm guessing there's no tricks to make the text render more windows like? Thanks for the quick response - I feel better about these screens now
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Jul 25, 2012 22:08
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Quick question: how can I keep my secondary monitor from going black when I start a game? I don't want my game to extend to it, I just want it for media/internet while the game's running on the primary.
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Jul 26, 2012 00:10
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Haeleus posted:Quick question: how can I keep my secondary monitor from going black when I start a game? I don't want my game to extend to it, I just want it for media/internet while the game's running on the primary. Is it possible to run your game in borderless Windowed mode? I had this problem way back in XP and the only solution then was to just not use full-screened applications if you wanted to interact with the other monitor.
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Jul 26, 2012 00:32
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http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Monitors_Flat_Panel_Widescreen/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1&sku=320-2676 Dell U2412M on sale at dell.ca for today only, I have the deal reserved until tomorrow. I'm wondering about the warning in the OP about it stretching 1080p and referencing consoles, are they all that is affected? Could someone kindly elaborate on the implications of this issue?
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Jul 26, 2012 01:12
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Haeleus posted:Quick question: how can I keep my secondary monitor from going black when I start a game? I don't want my game to extend to it, I just want it for media/internet while the game's running on the primary.
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Jul 26, 2012 01:37
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Corte posted:http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/Monitors_Flat_Panel_Widescreen/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1&sku=320-2676 Basically the screen is slightly taller than a typical 16:9 TV which is what consoles are designed for so if you connect one the image will be vertically stretched. Not an issue if you have it connected to a PC because you can select a resolution that is the correct aspect ratio.
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Jul 26, 2012 01:50
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Just order the Dell U2412M but wondering if this might not be a better deal: http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=69432&vpn=PA238QR&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1261. I see another ASUS 23inch recommended in the OP and this one has IPS which is the only necessity I can think of.
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Jul 26, 2012 02:28
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Corte posted:Just order the Dell U2412M but wondering if this might not be a better deal: http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=69432&vpn=PA238QR&manufacture=ASUS&promoid=1261. I see another ASUS 23inch recommended in the OP and this one has IPS which is the only necessity I can think of. It's an inch smaller and 16:9 instead of 16:10. For only $30 more you take the u2412m any day, no question.
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Jul 26, 2012 02:48
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The old thread title was something like "if you use 16:9 you are literally subhuman," and I agree with this sentiment.
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Jul 26, 2012 03:25
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Chim posted:Welp that is exactly what the text looks like. Guess I was just spoiled with the high res notebook display. (and ipad3). I'm guessing there's no tricks to make the text render more windows like? Thanks for the quick response - I feel better about these screens now While I guess not more Windows like, I guess you should know about this if needed: http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20090828224632809
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Jul 26, 2012 05:16
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I can absolutely attest to the U2412M's quality; just installed seven of the glorious beasts at instructor podiums. If only we didn't have to run them at 1280x800 to match the stupid SmartBoards.
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Jul 26, 2012 17:46
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Okay, I think that's what I'll go for then. Cheaper is better for me at this point, especially as I'm saving for a new Mac. Appreciate the tips, everyone. Thank you.
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Jul 26, 2012 18:11
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Microcenter is now shipping the Auria 27" monitor for $400 + tax. For those of you who want to spend less than the Dell, HP or Apple, but don't trust those dirty Koreans. Also the base seems to be better than the Korean ones. http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0384780 VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jul 26, 2012 |
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Jul 26, 2012 18:54
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http://www.nixeus.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=5928 This is also going to be coming out soon, pre-order pricing next week apparently. Another apple/dell reject variant with multi-inputs/warranty.
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Jul 26, 2012 19:15
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What are the chances the Auria / Nixeus don't have the same input lag problems all the other korean monitors with more than just dual link DVI do?
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Jul 26, 2012 19:23
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I mean, don't the Korean monitors have holes for a VESA mount? Because a generic VESA-compatible stand will run you like $30-50 on ebay.
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Jul 26, 2012 19:44
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Cream_Filling posted:I mean, don't the Korean monitors have holes for a VESA mount? Because a generic VESA-compatible stand will run you like $30-50 on ebay. I bought a stand for my Catleap and then discovered that I'd have to pretty drat near disassemble the entire thing to attach it. Still working up the courage to do so.
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Jul 26, 2012 19:53
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Cream_Filling posted:I mean, don't the Korean monitors have holes for a VESA mount? Because a generic VESA-compatible stand will run you like $30-50 on ebay. This depends on the type you get. the QNIX ones just have a vesa stand, so it's 4 screws. Others, like crossover and catleap/etc. require disassembly ot leave an ugly nub of the previous stand on bottom.
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Jul 26, 2012 20:16
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Oh man, Jeff Atwood is on the Korean bandwagon!
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Jul 27, 2012 00:59
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Dammit. I caved and bought a Catleap from bigclothcraft.
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Jul 27, 2012 02:02
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298298 posted:What are the chances the Auria / Nixeus don't have the same input lag problems all the other korean monitors with more than just dual link DVI do?
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Jul 27, 2012 02:47
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So I ended up talking myself into ordering a U2412M. Figured that there is no point in cheaping out just to get something with crappy backlight bleeding and a stand made of balsa wood. In related news, anyone know of a mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable/adapter that doesn't cost a kidney and that is actually constructed properly? Most of the cables I see on Amazon have tons of cautionary reviews about how they gently caress up one of the pin connections and cause power/sleep issues.
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Jul 27, 2012 05:04
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https://www.monoprice.com You're welcome 
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Jul 27, 2012 05:13
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Factory Factory posted:https://www.monoprice.com Monoprice was actually the first place I looked. Their cables seems to cause the issue (according to reviews on both their site and Amazon). Apparently a lot of DP cables establish a connection between two pins that should't be connected, causing the issue described in the OP: SeventySeven posted:Basically if I turn the monitor off while my MBP is still connected via DisplayPort it won't turn back on again without disconnecting the DP cable AND the power, waiting a little while, plugging in the power, switching it on then plugging the DP cable back in again. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find anyone who actually comes out and say which cables DON'T do this. I guess I'll just stick with my mini-DP to DVI brick.
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Jul 27, 2012 05:21
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Well, there can't exactly be an uncool Kamina emote, but maybe an emote revealing that it's just a sad fat nerd cosplaying as Kamina. 
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Jul 27, 2012 05:24
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-30...=item4d0325d36a 30" Yamasaki Leonidas, only $669, free shipping, from dream-seller who seems legit. Worth it? Seems to be a lot of new 30" korean monitors, but youtubing/googling isn't bringing anything up but the ebay auctions. ARA LCD TRL-300WQ 30inch 2560 x 1600 IPS DVI-D Computer Monitor Free shipping $579. Can't find anything at all googling this. What the christ. Zero Dead Pixel FIRST FSM-300MJ 30inch WQHD 2560 x 1600 16:10 S-IPS Monitor $789. Everything I've seen about the korean monitors with zero dead pixel policy they've delivered on the promise. Is this too good to be true or am I a huge idiot who's about to get ripped off? $999 seemed to be the best possible price for a u3011, I'm assuming that's without tax though which would push it to $1,100, and some of these 30" are nearly half the price. The only thing I can find is that they're CCFL instead of LED? OP says they die faster than LED but at half the price does it really matter? 298298 fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 05:43
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If you really want a 30 over a 27 I say go for it. dream-seller is one of the known/popular sellers, and if a "Zero Dead Pixel" item carriers a $120 premium it's probably legit. The majority of complaints/negative feedback from any of the Korean sellers seems to be from people ordering non-pixel perfect versions and then complaining about dead pixels. frumpsnake fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 14:20
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So, I'm building a new high-end gaming PC and am looking to get a 120Hz monitor. Which ones should I be aiming for assuming I have an infinite budget? I would like near-IPS quality if possible, but I also know about the BenQ monitor which has a great rotation feature which I would probably use in a couple of situations.
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Jul 27, 2012 17:05
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120Hz not enough for your SLI 680s? ASUS is working on a 144Hz 3D monitor. It's a 27" 1920x1080 monitor (TN panel of course). http://vr-zone.com/articles/asus-readies-27-inch-3d-monitor-with-144-hz-panel/16836.html
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Jul 27, 2012 18:40
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I've got a machine with an I5 2500k with a nvidia 560ti that I'm looking to give a new monitor. Those parts felt pretty expensive 6 months ago, will I be doing a huge disservice to them playing Skyrim and Battlefield 3 on the Dell U2312HM recommended in the <24" category in the OP? Yes, I rely very heavily on the OPs of SHSC hardware threads. Thank you for making them.
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Jul 27, 2012 23:40
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Senethro posted:I've got a machine with an I5 2500k with a nvidia 560ti that I'm looking to give a new monitor. Those parts felt pretty expensive 6 months ago, will I be doing a huge disservice to them playing Skyrim and Battlefield 3 on the Dell U2312HM recommended in the <24" category in the OP?
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Jul 28, 2012 01:00
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 Can anyone who reads Mandarin tell me whether this is VESA mount compitable? http://www.lg.com/cn/computer-and-accessories/computer-monitors/LG-ips-display-IPS277L-BN.jsp I've tried to run the webpage through google translate but it doesn't seem to work. Is there a manual or something that shows you the rear of the monitor? Edit: found it - http://www.lg.com/cn/common/product...-IPS277L-BN.jsp God dammit, an anti-glare coating and no vesa mount. KingEup fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jul 28, 2012 |
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Jul 28, 2012 06:22
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Thinking of buying one of the 2560x1440 korean monitors and have a few questions. How much will it suck to game at 2560x1440 with a gtx 560 ti(not 448 edition)? How bad will games look scaled down to 1920x1080 on that screen?
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Jul 28, 2012 06:32
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TheRevolution1 posted:Thinking of buying one of the 2560x1440 korean monitors and have a few questions. I just got one (a Potalion), and gaming on it is pretty good with my 6970. Since you're at such a high resolution very few games need AA, and those that do work great with 2x. I don't know about the scaling, but any game that you have problems running could probably run in windowed mode at 1080p. It might be smaller but at least you don't have to deal with a stretched out image.
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Jul 28, 2012 08:41
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I have a desktop computer and a laptop - and a Dell U2411H. The monitor comes with some USB slots that I hook my peripherals to. To make the computer detect these peripherals, I need to connect the monitor to the computer with a USB-A to USB-B cable. (The USB-B goes into the monitor, of course.) M: Monitor D: Desktop L: Laptop G: General device (D/K) A: USB-A (male) B: USB-B (male) ~~~ [M]-B-A-[G] Now, I will have to switch between my laptop and desktop fairly often, so I don't want to bother hooking each up to the monitor through USB every drat single time. Instead, I thought I could hook up some USB extension cables from the monitor, so I could have a USB cable ready in each computer like this: [L]-A-A- [D]-A-A- This way, I don't have to crawl behind and under the monitor to switch the cable each time. Instead, I would have a cable for each device that could be hooked up to a female USB-A extension that can just get pulled out in seconds and connected to either device: -A_female-[Extension]-[M] The problem is, I haven't found any extension cables that allow this. The ideal would be a male USB-B (for the monitor) to female USB-A (to the devices). Or, failing that, a regular very short USB-A to USB-B (both male) hooked into a cable where both are male USB-A. I find it really weird that my cables pusher doesn't have something to support this configuration, and I wonder if some of the goons out there are using a much easier solution. What do you suggest? ufarn fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Jul 28, 2012 |
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Jul 28, 2012 13:55
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