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For cordless drills I'd also look at Hitachi. I have one that I've been using around the house and it works pretty good. Plenty of torque to round off whatever you throw at it and lithium ion battery power so it can do it for a while. I'd say don't get an impact wrench to use as a drill. My Dewalt cordless impact is 2-3x heavier than my cordless drill.
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Jul 29, 2012 23:16
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grover posted:Motors draw about 6x that for a fraction of a second on start-up, though. Circuit breakers and fuses have trip curves and won't open for it under normal conditions, but cheap timers built for a couple strings of christmas lights may not be able to handle it. What you want is a motor contactor. It's like a big relay. Use the timer to pull in the contactor coil, which will be a tiny load so you can use a simple, small timer.
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Jul 30, 2012 03:11
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TacoHavoc posted:What you want is a motor contactor. It's like a big relay. Use the timer to pull in the contactor coil, which will be a tiny load so you can use a simple, small timer. Also called a magnetic starter.
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Jul 30, 2012 04:30
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So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan.
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Jul 30, 2012 05:31
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rcman50166 posted:So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan. Some people will say not to get Harbor Freight brand. Well I left a car up on 4 of them for the better part of a year and had no trouble at all. I still use those same stands on every car I work on.
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Jul 30, 2012 05:51
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Black88GTA posted:Keep driving until you hit Sears or Home Depot. HF is good for some things, but power tools are not one of them. I have the angle grinder from there... 2 to be exact, 1 with a grinding wheel and the other with a cut off wheel. Mostly because I am lazy and don't want to switch wheels. So far they have held up pretty well. So if you need a cheap angle grinder, I can safely recommend them. But I am also using good wheels, I don't trust the wheels from HF. I have had pretty good luck with the jack stands as well. Though I take them out and give them a good inspection. As long as the welds look good, I have no problems using them. But I also keep the wheels under the car too... just as a safety measure.
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Jul 30, 2012 05:56
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I use the poo poo out of my angle grinders while doing metal fabrication so HF was right out, I don't want to have to keep spares on hand and most people I know who use them for actual fabrication (i.e. not sheetmetal and cutting random bolts) have nuked a couple. As for the HF wheels - I probably used over 100 of them before I actually read the warning label and noted that it says there's a cancer risk, i.e. they are probably using silicate abrasive or asbestos fiber somewhere in there. gently caress that noise, I have enough carcinogens around without knowingly adding more to save nothing, so I order mine online now from Heleta, which uses alumina abrasive and doesn't have a cancer warning on it, so the reinforcement fiber they use isn't a known carcinogen either (yet.) They're even around the same price as HF discs, and last way longer. I think I have at least 6 of the 6-ton HF jackstands, they're fine. No safety pin, but I'm extremely careful to make sure the ratcheting pawl is properly set before lowering a car onto them anyways.
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Jul 30, 2012 06:20
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rcman50166 posted:So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan. Avoid any that look like they're designed like this:  You want very thick steel, not something thin like that. I can't find them but I know I've seen a picture of a stand of this style where it looks like someone bent it in the middle like a drinking straw.
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Jul 30, 2012 06:30
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Anybody know of a decent sloped rebuild table I could recommend to my boss? We kinda need one at the shop (I'm tired of using up all of the workbenches with transmissions and poo poo). I'm considering just telling him I'll build one so that maybe he'll buy us a nice metal brake, which I would use a lot more than a stupid table.
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Jul 30, 2012 09:32
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For the earlier discussion about drills, for basic use around the house this is what I've been using since buying my new place: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-cordless-38-pro-lithium-ion-drilldriver-69360.html $32 (after 20% coupon) and it's done just fine for me over the past couple months. It's driven plenty of screws and drilled some holes here and there and still on its first charge. You can also order additional batteries too, unlike some of their models. e: Certainly not against a nice drill though. My dad had an 18 or a 19.2 (can't remember which) Milwaukee which was great to use, but I actually like the HF drill for most uses more since it's so much smaller and lighter to carry around.
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Jul 30, 2012 13:24
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kastein posted:Heleta 4.5" flap discs for $1.29 ($2.35 for Zirc)? Sign me the gently caress up.
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Jul 30, 2012 13:56
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sharkytm posted:How did I not know about these folks? They were even better back when it was Bullett Industries, but still pretty drat good. Hell I've used cutoff wheels that I left sitting on my porch in the sun for an entire year and they worked just as well, no disintegration and they didn't wear fast or anything, though I was wary enough to stay well behind the debris shield.
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Jul 30, 2012 17:30
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Sears has their Craftsman bottle cap wrench for $5: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944500000P?sid=IAx20050830x000545&aff=Y This is a seriously awesome bottle opener that has a nice heft to it and great lever action.
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Aug 4, 2012 19:16
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mod sassinator posted:Sears has their Craftsman bottle cap wrench for $5: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944500000P?sid=IAx20050830x000545&aff=Y Sweet I was admiring this the other day in-store. Just bought it.
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Aug 4, 2012 19:49
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Do we have a body work thread? In any case, I want to give a go at doing some of the body work on my e30 before I send it off to the body shop for a full paintjob. Along the side skirts, BMW applied a black rubberized texture paint and I want to grind it all off so that it can be painted smooth...would an angle grinder be ideal for this? I have one from HF that should work (vibrates like loving hell though) What about sanders for sanding bondo? I don't have an air compressor ...
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Aug 8, 2012 22:01
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You can just a random orbit sander. Its not as good, but will get the same results.
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Aug 8, 2012 22:18
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BraveUlysses posted:Do we have a body work thread? Just see my thread if you want a body work thread. It will give you an idea of what your are in for. If you have questions on DIY body work feel free to post pictures and ask there.... http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3439775
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Aug 8, 2012 22:26
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If it's an E36 believe it or not the body color is underneath that rubber poo poo. I've heard of people rubbing the coating off and then polishing the color back without a paint but I think you'd need to be a ninja to pull it off.
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Aug 8, 2012 23:28
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You are right about e36s but its an e30
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Aug 9, 2012 01:06
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I need a big boy air compressor. Something that can run a sandblasting unit. Preferrably something under 600 bucks.
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Aug 9, 2012 15:40
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veedubfreak posted:I need a big boy air compressor. Something that can run a sandblasting unit. Preferrably something under 600 bucks. How big a sand blasting unit? And GFL. I paid $500 on clearance for a C-H that puts out 15CFM. http://www.cpocampbellhausfeld.com/...hop-compressors You'll need that as a minimum to run even a small blaster. Keep a close eye on CL. 5HP minimum.
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Aug 9, 2012 18:25
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I have one of those 10 gallon blasting pots that are cheap on ebay. I run it from an 11hp petrol compressor with a 200l tank. It provides enough air to keep it going without any problem, but my smaller electric compressors won't even think about it
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Aug 9, 2012 18:56
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600 is just a soft limit, if I need to spend more I will. To have the entire car blasted I'm looking at around 1200 bucks. I figure if I just buy a good compressor and this http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/3203/ (oh poo poo, it dropped 60 bucks in price) when everything is done, I'll have a compressor that is actually useful.
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Aug 9, 2012 19:07
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veedubfreak posted:600 is just a soft limit, if I need to spend more I will. To have the entire car blasted I'm looking at around 1200 bucks. I figure if I just buy a good compressor and this http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/3203/ (oh poo poo, it dropped 60 bucks in price) when everything is done, I'll have a compressor that is actually useful. http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-95014.html With a sale and a 20% off coupon, its way cheaper than Eastwood. That's the one I've got. Plan on taking the entire thing apart and removing all the excess teflon tape, as well as installing a better water trap. DRY DRY air and DRY DRY media are the real key. I've got some bookmarks from GarageJournal that explain how to get it working. Its a real balance between pressure, flow, and media flow to prevent clogs, but be quick. I've sandblasted quite a few pieces with my HF unit, and run about 200# of Black Beauty from TSC through it. It works, but its miserable work. You won't be able to sand blast a car body, you'll warp the panels. You'll have to use walnut or plastic bead or something less aggressive. If you are talking about a frame, fire away with BB, its really cheap. Anyhoo, that 5HP/15CFM compressor is pretty much the minimum for that blaster. the 80 gallon tank helps a bit with heat control, as does my having 100' of 3/4 copper air lines with moisture drops and whatnot.
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Aug 9, 2012 21:24
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veedubfreak posted:600 is just a soft limit, if I need to spend more I will. To have the entire car blasted I'm looking at around 1200 bucks. I figure if I just buy a good compressor and this http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/3203/ (oh poo poo, it dropped 60 bucks in price) when everything is done, I'll have a compressor that is actually useful. That looks like the same one I have, except mine is orange. I just use copper slag and I've found that it works extremely well. I've used it on fairly thin stuff without a problem. I've only heard of the warping on small panels from the massive industrial blasters which use significantly bigger stuff. As said above, dry air is very important, as is keeping the media dry. Once you get the settings dialed in it is plain sailing.
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Aug 9, 2012 22:00
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Luckily I live in Colorado where the standard humidity is around 30%, so moisture shouldn't be as big of an issue. I was planning on going with crushed walnut as it will be done in my garage and at least with crushed walnut people can't bitch me out for sweeping excess bullshit into the yard. The car in question, if you have followed my build thread, is about 90% rust 10% paint. I could probably just as easily go to town with an orbital sander, but I want to be able to get to all of the nooks and crannies that I just know rust is lingering in. Back to the question at hand, I need a big air compressor. Not even sure what brands to look at. Anything I can get local gets horrible reviews about being Chinese junk, Craftsman, Huskey, etc. Oh right, it also needs to be 110v. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Aug 9, 2012 |
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Aug 9, 2012 22:21
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veedubfreak posted:Luckily I live in Colorado where the standard humidity is around 30%, so moisture shouldn't be as big of an issue. I was planning on going with crushed walnut as it will be done in my garage and at least with crushed walnut people can't bitch me out for sweeping excess bullshit into the yard. For sandblasting, any compressor that runs on 110v is going to be 5 minute blasting, 20 minutes waiting for the tank to refill. Assuming you can't get 220v wired up, would you consider a gas powered compressor?
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Aug 9, 2012 22:46
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If people are looking for good starter or general tool sets, I noticed Costco has their 200 piece Crescent brand set on sale for $79.97 (normally $99). There's also a Stanley black chrome socket set with like 125 pieces for $49.97 (normally $69 I think).
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Aug 10, 2012 04:34
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Brigdh posted:For sandblasting, any compressor that runs on 110v is going to be 5 minute blasting, 20 minutes waiting for the tank to refill. Assuming you can't get 220v wired up, would you consider a gas powered compressor? So what I'm hearing is that I should just invest in sandpaper and not bother having it blasted unless I plan to go show car with it?
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Aug 10, 2012 14:23
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veedubfreak posted:So what I'm hearing is that I should just invest in sandpaper and not bother having it blasted unless I plan to go show car with it? Sandblasting takes a shitton of air, and no 110v compressor I know of will be able to keep up. If it were me, I'd say gently caress it to spending more than 60% of my time twiddling my thumbs waiting for the compressor to catch up. I'd sand it the best I could, and POR15 any area I'm concerned about. It'll probably be 80% as good as sandblasting, for a ton less effort and time.
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Aug 10, 2012 20:32
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veedubfreak posted:So what I'm hearing is that I should just invest in sandpaper and not bother having it blasted unless I plan to go show car with it? Tough question. Do you have any pictures?
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Aug 10, 2012 21:03
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Brigdh posted:Sandblasting takes a shitton of air, and no 110v compressor I know of will be able to keep up. If it were me, I'd say gently caress it to spending more than 60% of my time twiddling my thumbs waiting for the compressor to catch up. I'd sand it the best I could, and POR15 any area I'm concerned about. It'll probably be 80% as good as sandblasting, for a ton less effort and time.
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Aug 10, 2012 21:08
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daslog posted:Tough question. Do you have any pictures? go nuts: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3492599
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Aug 10, 2012 21:11
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I see. Having some experience with rust, I'd say to go to Harbor Freight, get a 5 to 7 inch polisher/sander, a backing pad, and some 36 grit to go with it. For the deep stops, you can get a the small spot sandblaster.
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Aug 10, 2012 21:17
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grover posted:What's the duty cycle of a cheap 110v air compressor for sand blasting, though? How long would a 5 gallon pancake last vs how long it would take to build pressure back up? We talking 30 seconds of blasting every 5 minutes vs spending several hundred/thousand bucks more for a pro model and wiring upgrades? Most sandblasting equipment I've used requires 25-30 CFM. 25 CFM is about 187 gallons per minute, so a 5 gallon pancake would last about 2 seconds. My 5 gallon pancake at home which I use for filling tires and some occasional impact work takes probably 10 minutes to fill. It also has something like a 50% duty rating, ie after 10 minutes of running, it should remain off for 10 minutes. You'd probably be more productive sanding by hand with a one inch square of sandpaper than blasting for 2 seconds, and then waiting 20 minutes.
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Aug 10, 2012 21:18
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daslog posted:I see. Having some experience with rust, I'd say to go to Harbor Freight, get a 5 to 7 inch polisher/sander, a backing pad, and some 36 grit to go with it. I already have a 5" rotary sander with a ton of 80 grits ready to go 
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Aug 10, 2012 21:54
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veedubfreak posted:I already have a 5" rotary sander with a ton of 80 grits ready to go 80 Grit is fine for Paint removal, but I have found that 36 grit works faster. Either should be fine though. For those really pitted rusted areas, you really need to sandblast it or the rust comes back. Even a wire brush wheel won't get it all out. http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html
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Aug 10, 2012 22:13
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I hate using my electric compressed air supplies for running tools that need a lot of it. I have an air DA sander, which is great, but runs off after about a minute. The same goes for the cut saw and die grinder. It is the largest compressor I could get to run of a 13amp 240v socket. It runs a spray gun fine , but won't run that and my air fed mask at all. The petrol powered one is superb, it easily provides enough air to run a couple of tools at once. The only down side is that it does go through a fair bit of petrol when you're using it for a while. Sometimes I see decent sized petrol powered ones that were on the back of tyre fitters vans, going pretty cheap. Perhaps that is an option. If you can, sandblasting is a fantastic and convenient way to get rid of rust. Be aware though it does seem to throw grit all over the place. I tend to do blast outside, then just use a leaf blower to blow it away.
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Aug 10, 2012 22:15
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I think I'm just gonna go the sanding route as I have no plans to do the body work required to get a real paint job. Seems like blasting is just overkill at this point for a weekend roller. Need to save money for an engine. The more I search for air cooled engines, the more I'm thinking I might just do a subaru swap. Air cooled engines are stupidly expensive.
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Aug 10, 2012 22:46
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Brigdh posted:Most sandblasting equipment I've used requires 25-30 CFM. 25 CFM is about 187 gallons per minute, so a 5 gallon pancake would last about 2 seconds.
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Aug 12, 2012 02:40
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