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I was just curious if anybody has used the monoprice CAT6 keystone jacks? I just can't imagine that they aren't total poo poo when a good keystone jack is like $7 or whatever.
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Aug 7, 2012 17:06
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:I was just curious if anybody has used the monoprice CAT6 keystone jacks? I just can't imagine that they aren't total poo poo when a good keystone jack is like $7 or whatever. Nearly every drat thing Monoprice has is amazing quality. All their networking poo poo is amazing and costs 10% of retail.
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Aug 7, 2012 18:19
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Hiyoshi posted:Try Tomato on it just to rule out that it isn't DD-WRT being lovely. I've got two RT-N16's with Tomato on them and have never had any problems whatsoever. One of them is actually an AP with no DHCP, just like yours. Does Tomato use/have WDS? My goal is once I drop FIOS to connect a second AP to this using WDS.
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Aug 7, 2012 20:41
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:I was just curious if anybody has used the monoprice CAT6 keystone jacks? I just can't imagine that they aren't total poo poo when a good keystone jack is like $7 or whatever. I've used a couple dozen monoprice keystone jacks (though I bought the 5e ones) with no incident.
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Aug 8, 2012 00:53
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BoyBlunder posted:Does Tomato use/have WDS? My goal is once I drop FIOS to connect a second AP to this using WDS. I've never used WDS before but it seems to: https://www.google.com/search?q=tomato+wds
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Aug 8, 2012 00:54
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Devian666 posted:It sounds similar to the DHCP problem someone was experiencing with stock netgear firmware. Except you aren't getting a connection. It all depends how much you want to tinker around with this. I flashed the router, and set up static DHCP leases to the MACs of the devices in question. They're both now working, oddly enough. Thank you for your help!
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Aug 8, 2012 04:31
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No problem. In other news my modem is repeatedly making GBS threads itself and losing connection when my apartment is cold. Rather odd but I'm surprised my linksys adsl 2+ survived this long. Replacing it with a cheap very basic netgear modem. I'm hoping this won't turn into a problem. Update: A lot of the problems I've been having lately all seem to have been caused by my faulty modem. I was getting weird situations where my computers or connected devices would lose their network connection when the modem caused problems. I got a Time Capsule the other day which I ended using as a router to see if there was a problem with my 3700. For now I've left it in place. The only thing that I've noticed is the 2.4 GHz signal strength is lower than the 3700 but that has not affected performance in my apartment. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Aug 8, 2012 |
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Aug 8, 2012 05:14
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I'm running tomato on my Asus router, and usingi t as an access point for my desktop to my main wireless router provided by my cable company. Unfortunately, my desktop doens't show up on LAN so I cant use it to stream music or movies. Is there anyway aorund this?
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Aug 9, 2012 01:52
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Check your settings to make sure there is nothing set to segregate your wireless network from the lan.
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Aug 9, 2012 02:44
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So I'm building a new PC, but realized after ordering everything on newegg that I need a wireless card, since it's a pain in the rear end to string ethernet from one corner of my apartment to another (it'd probably only be 100-150 ft of cable, but I'd have to secure it to the corner of the ceiling along a hallway and never close two doors and etc etc). Any recommendations on network cards for desktops?
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Aug 9, 2012 03:45
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What should I be buying if I want an external antenna and dd-wrt? I need to build a bridge between two buildings so I can run backups at night. There's 75m between the two buildings. Router will have to go inside the window and the antenna outside. I'm hoping a pair of these will do:
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Aug 9, 2012 14:18
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alanthecat posted:What should I be buying if I want an external antenna and dd-wrt? I need to build a bridge between two buildings so I can run backups at night. There's 75m between the two buildings. Router will have to go inside the window and the antenna outside. I'm hoping a pair of these will do: Any particular reason why you can't use something purpose built for point-to-point links like a pair of Ubiquiti Nanostations or Mikrotik SXTs? You will get a faster and more reliable connection compared to some jury-rigged solution using hacked consumer routers and aftermarket antennas.
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Aug 9, 2012 14:52
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alanthecat posted:What should I be buying if I want an external antenna and dd-wrt? I need to build a bridge between two buildings so I can run backups at night. There's 75m between the two buildings. Router will have to go inside the window and the antenna outside. I'm hoping a pair of these will do: Definitely go directional. You could either get one of those fancy outdoor ones, or just do a simple Yagi-style antenna. The bonus is that it'll be way cheaper.
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Aug 9, 2012 15:59
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Devian666 posted:Check your settings to make sure there is nothing set to segregate your wireless network from the lan. I dont think there is - Is there a particular setting i should be lookign for?
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Aug 10, 2012 00:08
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The terminology varies: under dd-wrt I believe it's called AP Isolation. For netgear it's just a check box with Enable Wireless Isolation. It could be called Wireless Client Isolation or similar for ASUS firmware.
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Aug 10, 2012 00:13
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Not really a home networking issue but this seems to be a good gathering of knowledge. I travel with about 80 people for work and each person has at least two wifi devices. Each building we play gives us internet access via a piece of cat 5 that I assume is tied into their network. We have an airport extreme that is acting as a bridge and deals with the printer and NAS. The issue is if you aren't one if the first people in the building you aren't able to get on the network. Running an ipconfig shows that there is no gateway. My thought is that because we are not assigning our own IP addresses and we are using so many devices that we simply run out of addresses. When I log onto the network windows marks it as unidentified so I am unable to view other computers on the network or print. Using Bonjour I can see the printer but there is always an error when I go to print. Does that sound likely? Is there a way to configure an aiprot extreme to take the IP the building provides us but act as a DHCP for our group to gain addresses?
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Aug 10, 2012 01:46
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It should be set to do what you're described by default. If you use the airport app or software you should be able to see the ip address provided by "the internet" by tapping it's icon. Then tap on the airport extreme and in the details it should show a different subnet. In terms of IP address the default settings should allow for 199 IP addresses on the subnet. If 80 people have two devices that's 160 ip addresses. If some people have three or more you'd run out of IP addresses easily. You could try increasing the limit to allow for more devices but it's sounds like you're pushing things.
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Aug 10, 2012 03:07
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Not all people are using all the devices at once. They might set up for a bit with their laptop to knock out some emails and reports in the morning and the rest of the day just walk by and connect with a phone or tablet to check a facebook. Would having a shorter DHCP lease time help that once we have the airport assign IPs? By default do you mean taking it out of bridge mode? In the airport config software "If your base station or Time Capsule is connected to a router or other network device that's using Network Address Translation (NAT) to share a single Internet connection with multiple computers on your network, and you are using Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (DHCP) to provide private IP addresses, you need to turn off NAT and DHCP on the base station or Time Capsule. Most networks need only one device using NAT and DHCP to provide IP addresses."
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Aug 10, 2012 03:19
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I'm having a really strange problem with what I think is my modem. I have a Motorola SB6121 modem, a Trendnet 16-Port Gigabit switch and a Linksys E3000 router. When I upgraded to the new (DOCSIS 3.0) modem, it worked well for the first few days but then I started to experience interminent drops- essentially I would lose connection to the internet (but remain connected on the local network to other systems etc) for about 30-60 seconds, then everything would re-connect. This would happen anywhere from every 2 minutes to every 45 minutes, but more or less every 15. I have the second-highest tier of Cox cable in New Orleans (4MB/s down). I really can't explain this situation, and am basically unable to test anything (using the old modem doesn't work at all). The only idea that has been slung past me is that Cox incorrectly flashed the modem when I first activated it and that is what is causing the issues... and it's the only thing I have to go on right now. I might just purchase a new modem and move on with it, any ideas goons?
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Aug 10, 2012 03:36
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dox posted:I'm having a really strange problem with what I think is my modem. I have a Motorola SB6121 modem, a Trendnet 16-Port Gigabit switch and a Linksys E3000 router. When I upgraded to the new (DOCSIS 3.0) modem, it worked well for the first few days but then I started to experience interminent drops- essentially I would lose connection to the internet (but remain connected on the local network to other systems etc) for about 30-60 seconds, then everything would re-connect. This would happen anywhere from every 2 minutes to every 45 minutes, but more or less every 15. I have the second-highest tier of Cox cable in New Orleans (4MB/s down). I really can't explain this situation, and am basically unable to test anything (using the old modem doesn't work at all). The only idea that has been slung past me is that Cox incorrectly flashed the modem when I first activated it and that is what is causing the issues... and it's the only thing I have to go on right now. I might just purchase a new modem and move on with it, any ideas goons? I had a similar problem, although not as severe, and it would occur under heavy traffic loads. Basically the problem that solved it for me was changing the DNS on my router to OpenDNS instead of having the router automatically detect it. Since I did that I haven't had a single drop in connection, its definitely worth a shot.
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Aug 10, 2012 03:39
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Definitely take it out of bridge mode. You will probably get a warning via the airport utility software about another device on the network providing NAT and DHCP but that's how you want it to run. The problems should go away in theory once you do that as you'll have plenty of ip addresses available on your subnet.
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Aug 10, 2012 03:43
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Devian666 posted:Definitely take it out of bridge mode. You will probably get a warning via the airport utility software about another device on the network providing NAT and DHCP but that's how you want it to run. The problems should go away in theory once you do that as you'll have plenty of ip addresses available on your subnet. Awesome I'll give it a try next time we move.
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Aug 10, 2012 03:44
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Eh, stay away from these things, you should get one free with a tank of gas. They might help a desktop PCIE card if they have an antenna port but in practice I've found they suck for anything other than in-house reception. In my anecdotal experience most of the people who make these generic antennas skimp on something, either they use a cheap / weak ceramic magnet for the base, make the antenna from something too bendy, or make the pigtail (the wire that runs out of the antenna) from standard wiring and not special low-signal-loss cabling, making the antenna perform worse than it should. Fake Edit: I used to use these and other antennas on older Airport Extremes which did have a dedicated antenna port, but I found that it was best for me to find a good low-loss cable supplier and make my own pigtails and crimp my own MCX cable ends on them and attach them to the antennas while throwing away the vendor supplied pigtail. Every commercial antenna I purchased a while ago, including some of the older Hawking antennas, were poo poo. With Ubiquitis and good directionals available now, why even bother. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Aug 10, 2012 |
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Aug 10, 2012 04:07
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Porkchop Express posted:changing the DNS on my router to OpenDNS instead of having the router automatically detect it i'm pointing to google dns running tomato 
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Aug 10, 2012 05:03
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dox posted:i'm pointing to google dns running tomato Then DNS isn't your problem! Next time it fails try pinging 4.2.2.2 and see if the ping works or fails along with everything else.
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Aug 10, 2012 05:21
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The_Franz posted:Any particular reason why you can't use something purpose built for point-to-point links like a pair of Ubiquiti Nanostations or Mikrotik SXTs? You will get a faster and more reliable connection compared to some jury-rigged solution using hacked consumer routers and aftermarket antennas. The place I'm working for has gotten quotes for a professional setup and then not gone ahead with it. I need a new home router myself, so figured I'd buy one that might do the job here. If it works, great, I'm sure they'll pay, if not I'll just bring it home with me. I've already got a Linksys e3000 but it doesn't have a connection for an external antenna. Am I looking at G-only gear for this? manero posted:Definitely go directional. You could either get one of those fancy outdoor ones, or just do a simple Yagi-style antenna. The bonus is that it'll be way cheaper. Binary Badger posted:Eh, stay away from these things, you should get one free with a tank of gas. Thanks. I'll see what I can find once I figure out the router part! I was pretty much just going to throw the omni antenna out the window and hope it worked (I've had success with this in the past). alanthecat fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Aug 11, 2012 |
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Aug 11, 2012 19:32
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Kaluza-Klein posted:I am working with a sprawling house that has a single Linksys E2500 at one end that is providing terrible wireless coverage. I was going to buy another E2500 spread things out, but then I figure two wrongs don't make a right. This is from a few pages ago, but I've actually got the same problem. While my Macbook on the opposite end of the house (a ranch, but the router is in the basement, since it's the only place with an open cable outlet) and the wifi is fine, my phone can just barely connect from my room, and the room adjacent to it it can't really connect at all for more than ten seconds. The E2500 doesn't have external antennae, so I can't just upgrade those, either. I basically just need a super cheap repeater to put upstairs somewhere that hopefully won't kill speeds too badly. Any recommendations?
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Aug 12, 2012 10:23
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Does anyone know what the best possible router is (or anything with at least 64GB RAM and a decent CPU) that supports the original Tomato firmware (not the new Tomato USB)? Reason being is that I use this: http://fixppp.org/ for a MLPPP connection which is based off the original Tomato firmware and hasn't been updated since 2010.
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Aug 13, 2012 13:54
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Ninja Rope posted:Then DNS isn't your problem! Next time it fails try pinging 4.2.2.2 and see if the ping works or fails along with everything else. Fails like everything else. In the past four days I've called Cox three times-- every time they reset/reflash the modem, it starts to work for about ~12-18 hours without any issues. Then, after that time period, my internet starts to crash again for about ~2-4 minutes every ~10-90 minutes... completely hosed. I can't figure out what the root cause of this, but it must be the modem. I'm just going to buy a new one today and write off my other options. The only other option Cox is giving me is sending out a support technician, but I don't think that is going to bring a speedy resolve to this problem.
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Aug 13, 2012 19:32
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dox posted:Fails like everything else. In the past four days I've called Cox three times-- every time they reset/reflash the modem, it starts to work for about ~12-18 hours without any issues. Then, after that time period, my internet starts to crash again for about ~2-4 minutes every ~10-90 minutes... completely hosed. I can't figure out what the root cause of this, but it must be the modem. I'm just going to buy a new one today and write off my other options. The only other option Cox is giving me is sending out a support technician, but I don't think that is going to bring a speedy resolve to this problem. Try directly connecting to the modem if you can to see if there's a router issue. I suspect it probably the modem overheating and failing though. I was having similar connection issues recently until I replaced my modem.
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Aug 13, 2012 22:41
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Has anyone successfully used the Nanostations (or anything else) for around a mile of point-to-point bridging in a city? I live at the top of a hill, 150 feet elevation at my floor, and my brother lives 4000 feet away as the crow flies, at 30 feet elevation. I *may* have a direct line of sight, give or take a pile of trees. There's also five bajillion AP's along the way. He has cable internet and I have jack squat, so if I can get anything resembling respectable quality with a setup like this I'd split the bill with him. I'm an IT professional, but the farthest I've gone so far is maybe a thousand feet in the suburbs with Yagi wifi antennae.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:18
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For long range wireless I've only ever used the following gear. Though it says it's designed for 1 to 30 km range. We had a functioning network of around nine apartments on the wired network and point to point connection about 1.5 to 2 km away with line of sight. http://www.senao.com/English/default.aspx?TYPE=test.htm&PT=category_list&tv_TCAT_POS=0&CATNO0=B&IDX=2.4&CNT=1&CATNO1=B21 If you have trees or other obstructions they really will not help.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:30
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Hmm, thanks, I guess I'd better check into how much line of sight I really have, there could potentially be a whole lot in the way. The funniest point-to-point solution I've seen was my last job, I wasn't IT there, but the place needed to link one building to another across the street, and they couldn't run wires. They bought a fuckin' laser cannon to bridge the fiber, like this: http://www.digitalairwireless.com/outdoor-wireless-networks/point-to-point-wireless/laser-fso-links/geodesy-fso-laser-links.html The thing would lose connection in the summer around noon each day, my theory was that perhaps the heat outside was refracting the laser.
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Aug 14, 2012 06:40
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Zero VGS posted:Hmm, thanks, I guess I'd better check into how much line of sight I really have, there could potentially be a whole lot in the way. The funniest point-to-point solution I've seen was my last job, I wasn't IT there, but the place needed to link one building to another across the street, and they couldn't run wires. They bought a fuckin' laser cannon to bridge the fiber, like this: http://www.digitalairwireless.com/outdoor-wireless-networks/point-to-point-wireless/laser-fso-links/geodesy-fso-laser-links.html The more likely thing is why beam type smoke detectors have problems. Buildings move and creep as they change temperature. Doesn't take much to get out of alignment, especially when two buildings will have differential movement.
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Aug 14, 2012 11:32
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Devian666 posted:Try directly connecting to the modem if you can to see if there's a router issue. I suspect it probably the modem overheating and failing though. I was having similar connection issues recently until I replaced my modem. The same issue happens when directly connecting modem->computer. It's definitely the SB6121 modem, it's getting 6-9 level critical errors when it goes down.
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Aug 14, 2012 16:10
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I just got my Unifi UAP. Performance is just so-so. Just quick checking in samba (copying a file from NAS) I only get like 3.3MB/s (so about 26Mbps). That's on my Intel Ultimate 6300, connecting at 130Mbps (dunno why it won't connect at 300Mb, it's sitting 8 feet away line-of-sight and UAP is set to 40Mhz channels and max power, with no real interference according to inSSIDer). I checked with iperf and the throughput seems to be about 58.6Mbps, which isn't terrible considering the UAP only has a 100Mbps ethernet port. I can't figure why it seems that Samba has 50% overhead compared to iperf, but while connected via GigE, Samba's only about 10% slower than iperf. Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 01:40
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While it may seem counter intuitive try reducing the power and see how that effects the connection speed.
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Aug 15, 2012 04:24
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I bought a cheap wireless repeater to extend the wifi signal so that it went from constantly being dropped to being stable, even if the bandwidth gets lowered. Unfortunately it being cheap it constantly needs returning to the factory settings before having the network information along with various other problems. It was this repeater. Obviously going for the absolute cheapest was a mistake but can anyone recommend a stable repeater? Not having to reset it or have it temporarily drop the connection would be nice. I can't check at the minute but I think the router is a Linksys e3000 if that changes anything Jose fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 13:29
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Hey guys, I need a bit of help in trying to determine where some uncrimped cables are going to and how people normally figure this out. Below is a before picture of the mess I am working with, I've already removed the unnecessary extra switches and routers (Why there were two extra small switches when there was a large one with open ports already there and a wireless router I will never know  ) and have cleaned it up a bit. Anyway, my neighbor has asked me to see if I can get the rest of the house set up with internet for each room in the house (Probably looking at 7-10 rooms or so), which the wall jacks should already be set up, but they lead to the uncrimped cables that are circled in red. So how do I go abouts figuring out where each wire goes to and having them crimped properly?  Edit: Tools I currently have at my disposal are simple cable tester, crimping tool, RJ45s, etc. I can probably pick up anything else I need assuming it won't cost an arm and a leg. Etrips fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 13:52
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Etrips posted:Hey guys, Buy a patch panel, wire them all up, plug a computer into one room and change the patch cable from the switch to the panel until you get a light on the switch...rinse and repeat?
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Aug 15, 2012 16:47
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