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grover posted:That 5 gallon pancake isn't at atmospheric pressure, though, though, it's at 100-150psi. So would actually last more like 10-20 seconds, I guess... Assuming you regulate it down to the 90 psi most sandblasting equipment I'm familiar with, you might gain a couple extra seconds. Still not worth it in my opinion Brigdh fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Aug 12, 2012 |
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Aug 12, 2012 04:20
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 23:50 |
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Found an 18" prybar at Princess Auto for two bucks yesterday. 
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Aug 12, 2012 04:47
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I think I already posted this stuff, but I was kinda pumped about it anyway. I bought a 20 gallon compressor for 80 bucks off Kijiji:  Did this:  And then made this:  Works in a pinch, although I would absolutely never use a tank that small again. Runs out too quickly. thecobra fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Aug 12, 2012 |
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Aug 12, 2012 04:48
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rcman50166 posted:So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan. I think you are fine if it's pretty decent steel. I like US Jack, their lowest capacity model would be over kill but I like the design [double lock prawl, us made and the stands are individually rated] http://www.jackxchange.com/products/D-41608.cfm I use them on Humvees, military trailers, rv's, etc, but in those cases everything is 8,000 lb and up. On the other hand, you may need something that's a bit lower, those are pretty tall.
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Aug 12, 2012 16:49
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Recently got this Warner & Swasey #3 Turret Lathe. Haven't made any car parts yet, but it might be in the future if some decent ideas come along.
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Aug 13, 2012 01:31
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I'm jealous. How much was it?
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Aug 13, 2012 01:38
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$3K with a bunch of tooling. Lots of which I probably won't use, but it's good to have for later projects. It came from Arizona to the shop space I am renting in Denton, Tx which was another $1K. It's ~4000 pounds of 'Merikan glory from 1953. Recently reconditioned and I love it.
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Aug 13, 2012 03:34
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grover posted:That 5 gallon pancake isn't at atmospheric pressure, though, though, it's at 100-150psi. So would actually last more like 10-20 seconds, I guess... Except you're not emptying the tank, you're dropping pressure from 100-150psi to 80-90 psi. Below that and the sandblaster won't work right. Also the valves they use on those won't flow 25cfm.
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Aug 13, 2012 09:37
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daslog posted:80 Grit is fine for Paint removal, but I have found that 36 grit works faster. Either should be fine though. If you have seen the pictures of the car, there isn't really any "paint" to remove. It's mostly surface rust at this point. I'm going to hit it with the sander, por15 the poo poo out of it, then rattlecan it flat black. If rust shows up later, it gets resanded/sprayed.
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Aug 13, 2012 15:08
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veedubfreak posted:If you have seen the pictures of the car, there isn't really any "paint" to remove. It's mostly surface rust at this point. I'm going to hit it with the sander, por15 the poo poo out of it, then rattlecan it flat black. If rust shows up later, it gets resanded/sprayed. Don't Use POR15 on anything you plan on topcoating later. (Unless you don't care about the quality of your paint jobs, in which case go nuts) Edit: NM, you are going rattlecan I wouldn't do that, since you can do it pretty cheaply other ways.
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Aug 13, 2012 20:17
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daslog posted:Don't Use POR15 on anything you plan on topcoating later. (Unless you don't care about the quality of your paint jobs, in which case go nuts) Or, you know...use the appropriate mid-coat (POR-15 Tie Coat Primer) before your color coat.
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Aug 13, 2012 20:30
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daslog posted:Don't Use POR15 on anything you plan on topcoating later. (Unless you don't care about the quality of your paint jobs, in which case go nuts) Took it to my thread. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Aug 13, 2012 |
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Aug 13, 2012 20:47
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I don't even know where this belongs, but I just found it on a Toyota forum and some people seemed to be taking it seriously:Some Troll posted:HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH
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Aug 14, 2012 22:42
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Hahah. I think we're all guilty of that at some point.
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Aug 14, 2012 22:55
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So when changing the timing belt on a 3.4L 'yota the FSM tells you to remove the hydraulic tensioner, put it in a vice to compress it and pin it in place. Great, except you have to remove the AC compressor and bracket to do that and it's a major pain. Snap-On to the rescue:  You put that thing between the tensioner pulley and water pump pulley and crank it out. Except I don't have one of those. So I took did something that aparently no one at any of the Toyota forums had thought of as far as I can tell:  The pulley is off of the tensioner, but I left the (soon to be replaced) bracket. You just need to crank the vise clamp as much as you possibly can and use your man hands to get in on there. Then count to 30 as you watch the tensioner retract and stick a 2mm allen wrench in the hole. Suck it, Snap On.
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Aug 15, 2012 00:34
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Edit: Ok so brand new Stihl MS251. I got it started once before but it died after a second or two. Now it's very hard to pull, but pulls easily when the spark plug is removed. The internet tells me that I probably flooded the engine, but I don't know what to do now when it's flooded. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Aug 15, 2012 |
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Aug 15, 2012 13:03
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MrOnBicycle posted:Edit: Stick a rag on top of the spark plug hole, just on the outside not into the cylinder. Give it a couple of pulls to splash the fuel out then put the plug back in.
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Aug 15, 2012 16:56
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FatCow posted:Stick a rag on top of the spark plug hole, just on the outside not into the cylinder. Give it a couple of pulls to splash the fuel out then put the plug back in. I tried. Nothing was splashed out. From what I could tell the spark plug wasn't "wet" neither. The manual had a similar procedure that I tried, didn't help.
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Aug 15, 2012 17:53
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Motronic posted:
I approve of this use of brute force and vicegrips.  Brigdh posted:You'd probably be more productive sanding by hand with a one inch square of sandpaper than blasting for 2 seconds, and then waiting 20 minutes. Option one is for non-drinkers. Option two is for men who own coolers and lawn chairs.
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Aug 15, 2012 20:14
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MrOnBicycle posted:Edit: Did you read the starting instructions, you have to squeeze the throttle when you are clicking the ignition button down. It holds the throttle open and will flip up when it starts. Pull a few pulls on full choke then click it up one to run. Work the throttle when it starts so it doesn't stay on WOT. Other then that I don't know what is wrong.
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Aug 15, 2012 20:25
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ALL NEW!!! From Motronic Heavy Industries and Private Military Contracting, Ltd Too cheap and/or disorganized to get the proper SST for a Toyota crank? Getting it back to 217 ft/lbs of torque got you down? Try the ALL NEW "Bar Stockinator":   "Yes, those are Harbor Freight punches." (tm)
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Aug 16, 2012 00:32
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I used a similar setup to get the crank pulley off of my Honda.
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Aug 16, 2012 01:29
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Cowwan posted:I used a similar setup to get the crank pulley off of my Honda. Off wasn't much of a problem on this one, as I already had the bottom armor off and it's a straight shot to the garage floor from the pulley once you're at that point. I just used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe sitting on the floor and bumped the starter as my 1/2" air ratchet was too big to fit (even with the radiator already out). On is a different story......I don't think there's any way around holding it, and strap wrenches just aren't gonna cut it at those kinds of torque values.
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Aug 16, 2012 01:43
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Very similar to the crank gear pulley tool required on older Harley Davidson sportsters. Good show.
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Aug 16, 2012 04:25
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So since we're having compressor chat around here, can anyone tell me what to look for in a compressor that would be decent for painting? Right now I'm running off a 20 gal, 5hp craftsman, but even at the max it only puts out like 8 scfm, which is okay for small jobs or in bursts, but I'd like to upgrade. So what should I look for in terms of Gallons/engine size/HP? I'm guessing I'd have to go up into the 220V range for something that would work like that too?
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Aug 16, 2012 05:03
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Elephanthead posted:Did you read the starting instructions, you have to squeeze the throttle when you are clicking the ignition button down. It holds the throttle open and will flip up when it starts. Pull a few pulls on full choke then click it up one to run. Work the throttle when it starts so it doesn't stay on WOT. Other then that I don't know what is wrong. Yep. Followed the instructions to the letter. I did the "If the engine doesn't start" procedure as well. Must have put it on wrong setting by mistake and pulled. I dunno.
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Aug 16, 2012 08:12
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yep. Followed the instructions to the letter. I did the "If the engine doesn't start" procedure as well. Must have put it on wrong setting by mistake and pulled. I dunno. Its a new saw, bring it to the place you bought it. Did it ever run? Is it possible that you put straight gas in it?
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Aug 16, 2012 14:24
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ExplodingSims posted:So since we're having compressor chat around here, can anyone tell me what to look for in a compressor that would be decent for painting? Right now I'm running off a 20 gal, 5hp craftsman, but even at the max it only puts out like 8 scfm, which is okay for small jobs or in bursts, but I'd like to upgrade. So what should I look for in terms of Gallons/engine size/HP? I'm guessing I'd have to go up into the 220V range for something that would work like that too? Something to consider is an LVLP gun. I use the Warwick 904H.
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Aug 16, 2012 17:05
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If you're going to be painting you NEED a water separator / filter setup on the supply line to the gun, preferably on the supply line to all the tools. Unless you like massive numbers of fisheyes in your paint that is.
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Aug 17, 2012 02:56
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kastein posted:preferably on the supply line to all the tools Or at least have a dedicated hose for painting, which is what I do. My cheap poo poo water separator steals enough CFMs that it pisses me off for non-painting duties so I've gone to that setup. Those with more $$$ to spend on equipment won't have this issue.
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Aug 17, 2012 03:00
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kastein posted:If you're going to be painting you NEED a water separator / filter setup on the supply line to the gun, preferably on the supply line to all the tools. Unless you like massive numbers of fisheyes in your paint that is. I've actually got 2 Devilbiss HVLP guns, and a QC3 3-stage filter, and one hose for paint and one for tools, I'm just looking to get a larger compressor. I've been painting for a while now, but even with the HVLP guns, the compressor doesn't meet the minimum SCFM requirement. (Its something like 13 Scfm for the big ones.) I've had plenty of success using the smaller Kobalt guns, but anytime I use the HVLP guns I always end up having to wait for the compressor to charge after like a 30 seconds of spraying. I can get good results, but it just involves waiting a whole bunch.
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Aug 17, 2012 05:12
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You can get campbell hausfeld and ingersoll rand compressors at lowes/home depot. $800-1000 would set you up nicely. I'd stick with the name brands for easier parts availability down the road. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202889756 http://www.lowes.com/pd_337408-28309-SS5N5_4294795218__?productId=3354162
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Aug 17, 2012 05:34
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Are there any good hand tool websites that offer free US shipping? I need to pickup some Wiss 13.25" duckbill tin snips (~$28) and the larger bulldog tin snips(~$65).
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Aug 17, 2012 11:01
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MSC industrial supply has free shipping today. SHIP99W I don't know if they are good or not. You have to spend 99 bucks so you will need to add a filler. Elephanthead fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 15:32
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My jack broke. Sunk a wheel in soft asphalt and the frame twisted  Portability is important to me, so I don't want a 50lb hoss, but it needs to be safe and reliable. Seems to be rather slim picking among compact jacks, though. How's the Torin 2 ton jack Wal-Mart sells? How's it compare to Harbor Freight's?http://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jack-2-Ton-360-Degree-Jack-Handle/14560041 grover fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Aug 17, 2012 |
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Aug 17, 2012 16:35
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grover posted:My jack broke. Sunk a wheel in soft asphalt and the frame twisted I've had this one for a few years http://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-2.5-Ton-Low-Pro-Jack/14560042 . It doesn't do much other than lift the car long enough to change summers to snows and move my bug around. Comes with a case too which is pretty cool, and has room in the case for a foldup 4way. Had to get the low profile one because my last car only had like 4 inches of clearance.
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Aug 17, 2012 17:14
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grover posted:My jack broke. Sunk a wheel in soft asphalt and the frame twisted I have owned this one, and I gave it away. It's an OK jack (each pump lifts maybe 2mm, I swear), but it's not really any smaller than any other jack I've owned. I would suggest the HF jack I currently own, but evidently they've gone from $40 to $90, so, screw that.
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Aug 17, 2012 17:30
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Which HF aluminum jack is the jack to get these days?
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Aug 17, 2012 20:56
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veedubfreak posted:I've had this one for a few years http://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jacks-2.5-Ton-Low-Pro-Jack/14560042 . It doesn't do much other than lift the car long enough to change summers to snows and move my bug around. Comes with a case too which is pretty cool, and has room in the case for a foldup 4way. Had to get the low profile one because my last car only had like 4 inches of clearance.
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Aug 17, 2012 21:01
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 23:50 |
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Chiming in to say that I love my 100 pound HF full-size steel jack. Best tool purchase ever. It's portable enough if you eat your wheaties.
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Aug 18, 2012 00:55
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