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I don't know if anyone else here does wooden model ships but I got a "beginner" kit for my birthday; this one specifically http://www.amazon.com/Latina-Virgin...latina+virginia And looking at it I don't think I have the proper tools. Pretty much I have a bunch of tweezers, a lovely craft knife, and a sprue cutter. I'm seeing a couple tool sets on Amazon but I have no idea if any are worth buying. Can someone link me a tool kit that's worth buying?
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Jun 15, 2012 05:00
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Epi Lepi posted:I don't know if anyone else here does wooden model ships but I got a "beginner" kit for my birthday; this one specifically http://www.amazon.com/Latina-Virgin...latina+virginia And looking at it I don't think I have the proper tools. Pretty much I have a bunch of tweezers, a lovely craft knife, and a sprue cutter. I'm seeing a couple tool sets on Amazon but I have no idea if any are worth buying. Can someone link me a tool kit that's worth buying? I don't think thats a beginner kit, as it seems to have a plank vise specifically for it. Maybe email the seller of the kit and get some advise on what tools you need. you can always ask at http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/ as they should know what basics you need.
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Jun 15, 2012 05:37
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Wibbleman posted:I don't think thats a beginner kit, as it seems to have a plank vise specifically for it. Maybe email the seller of the kit and get some advise on what tools you need. you can always ask at http://modelshipwrights.kitmaker.net/ as they should know what basics you need. The description says for beginners and
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Jun 15, 2012 15:47
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Artesania Latina's kits are pretty straightforward from the only two wooden ships I've built both being made by them. That's honestly not a bad one to start with to see if you enjoy building wooden ship models. I couldn't since whenever I put the planks on the hull all the wood would split or wouldn't bend properly and it'd look terrible but hopefully you'll do much better than I did.
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Jun 16, 2012 05:20
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Hello chaps, I recently had a good day out at IWM Duxford for a Miltary Vehicle Exhibition. They also had an excellent display of scale models and were running some 1:6 scale tanks. The full album of the day is here for those who are interested: https://plus.google.com/photos/106287723240230652471/albums/5755053779519495105?authkey=CL_KqoaT0vS87AE Here's some pics of the 1:35 models:    and 1:6 radio controlled tanks: 
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Jun 18, 2012 21:42
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I love the King Tiger's weathered look that makes it look like it's been cobbled together from old junkyard parts.
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Jun 19, 2012 05:09
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I think all three of those tanks are made by "Missing-Lynx" posters. They're really nice, and these examples are excluded, but a lot of those AFV modelers get too into the "weathered" look and end up making examples that are more weathered than actual abandoned WWII tanks one occasionally sees in Russian scrapyards and forests these days.
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Jun 19, 2012 23:38
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I think "missing a wheel" counts as too weathered.
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Jun 20, 2012 00:44
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Arquinsiel posted:I think "missing a wheel" counts as too weathered. It's a thing that actually happened. German Mechanics sometimes would remove some of the Tiger tank's interleaved road wheels just to simplify maintenance.
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Jun 20, 2012 02:48
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Yeah but I'm talking about the IS2 where it's kind of a major section of track missing ground resistance.
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Jun 20, 2012 03:06
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That's also a thing that happened, road wheels are anything but impervious to cannon fire. But in reality, I bet his wheel fell off the desk and into a crack or something, so he had to improvise.
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Jun 20, 2012 03:23
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Boomer The Cannon posted:Can model train folk play in this thread, too? Please do!
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Jun 20, 2012 18:43
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Ensign Expendable posted:But in reality, I bet his wheel fell off the desk and into a crack or something, so he had to improvise. I'm thinking you're right. There are two little white spots on the track where the wheel used to be. I'd bet they're where the road-wheel made full contact with the track and the spray-paint couldn't get in there.
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Jun 20, 2012 19:34
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Alright, I've gotten un-lazy and decided to post some of my pictures. First up, we have the British: 1:72 Airfix Spitfire MkI, 1:48 Revell Spitfire MkII, and 1:48 Spitfire MkVb:  Next up, we have the Axis: 1:48 Tamiya Messerschmitt 109E, 1:48 Revell Pro-Modeller Messerschmitt 410:  Finally, we have the HO-scale model train rolling stock collection. As of right now I'm still in the armchair railroader ranks, but hopefully I'll have a small shelf/modular layout under construction by the end of the year. Most of these are Accurail, Proto 2000 or Athearn kits OOB, but the CP 40' car was built using Champ decals.    In a bit, I'll post some of the stock car models I've done and the stuff that\s currently on my workbench. Boomer The Cannon fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Jun 27, 2012 |
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Jun 27, 2012 01:23
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Arise for your grave, thread! I have a question. How the hell do you paint a straight line on a curved surface when tape isn't working?
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Aug 2, 2012 02:31
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Very carefully. Serious answer: try Silly Putty.
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Aug 2, 2012 02:46
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It's worth a shot. I bought a 1/700 scale submarine, and it has this bitchy waterline. I've put more work into the waterline then the rest of the kit put together, which has about 10 parts.
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Aug 2, 2012 03:53
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You want to try paint a waterline on it in some manner? I'm thinking carefully dipping it into a wash or taping up the entire underside to the point of the line.
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Aug 2, 2012 03:55
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You could try some liquid masking products. I don't have any personal experience with them, but I know a lot of aircraft guys swear by it.
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Aug 2, 2012 14:48
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:You could try some liquid masking products. I don't have any personal experience with them, but I know a lot of aircraft guys swear by it. I've tried this before, but my personal liquid mask sucks. What are the cool kids using to mask?
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Aug 2, 2012 16:41
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Nebakenezzer posted:I've tried this before, but my personal liquid mask sucks. What are the cool kids using to mask? I've used Micro-Mask with good results. I mostly have used it for masking areas that will be glued and haven't tried a large surface like the water lines on a boat. It says not to use it with water-based paint, but I haven't run into any problems using with acrylics applied with an airbrush.
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Aug 2, 2012 19:12
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I used Humbrol Maskol or whatever the gently caress they call it. It was... interesting. It worked, but I think I should have tried to do fewer layers of masking.
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Aug 3, 2012 01:16
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SkunkDuster posted:I've used Micro-Mask with good results. I mostly have used it for masking areas that will be glued and haven't tried a large surface like the water lines on a boat. It says not to use it with water-based paint, but I haven't run into any problems using with acrylics applied with an airbrush.
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Aug 3, 2012 02:53
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Hey guys here's some progress shots of a 1:48 scale A-10 Thunderbolt II I've been doing.   
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Aug 16, 2012 19:56
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Oh man, I love those shark faces on the front of planes. Every kit should come with shark decals.
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Aug 16, 2012 20:52
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh man, I love those shark faces on the front of planes. Every kit should come with shark decals. That model looks great.
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Aug 17, 2012 04:57
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Has anyone tried mixing Tamiya paints to get different shades? I'm looking at doing a GW tank in WWII French camo and wondering how I will hilight the thing.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:29
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Arquinsiel posted:Has anyone tried mixing Tamiya paints to get different shades? I'm looking at doing a GW tank in WWII French camo and wondering how I will hilight the thing. I use Tamiya almost exclusively for cars. They mix really well with themselves, but they don't really mix for poo poo with other brands. Some combinations will take a bit of work to get mixed well, but they turn out nicely.
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Aug 21, 2012 21:51
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I used four different colours on a plane kit a few months back and while three of them came ou tmatt, the green came out rather gloss. It was strange. I guess I'll pick up a pot of white tomorrow and see about mixing some slight hilight colours..
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Aug 21, 2012 23:10
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When you spend half an hour looking for a roadwheel that fell onto the floor only to find it glued to the inside of your sleeve..... You know it's time for bed.
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Aug 30, 2012 02:31
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You got lucky, I had a speckled carpet that made it practically impossible to find parts once you dropped them, especially ones in dark plastic. I find that a carpet under your workspace is a pretty bad idea.
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Aug 30, 2012 05:16
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I have a nice beige carpet that totally hides everything, because the slightest bit of hair, sock fluff or dust turns it into a mottled camo-net within seconds of hoovering. Also: I don't know why Trumpeter put so much effort into interior detail on kits that are going to be closed up. I guess you can make an arguement for the passanger compartment having detail, but the engine? Nobody will see that ever.
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Aug 31, 2012 00:09
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I finished this a few weeks ago: the sub turned out well. 1/700 Hobby Boss Akula class attack sub. Had all of ten parts and was marvelously simple to put together. Painting the waterline literally took more work than the rest of the kit combined. The masking stuff worked, once I gave it a proper time to dry.  e: oh, and it's been given a dull-coat since these photos.
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Aug 31, 2012 01:04
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Just finished this Airfix 1/72 Aston Martin DB-5: Fairly pleased with it, despite my lack of skills. Terrible kit though, and the instructions were awful.
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Sep 12, 2012 19:28
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I think you did a good job, especially considering the low quality kit.
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Sep 12, 2012 21:01
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Yay car models! I just put my final clearcoat on a '66 442. No pictures yet, but I'll try to get some and get them in here before long.
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Sep 13, 2012 01:54
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Hey guys, I'm pretty new to scale modelling. I've got a 1/144 AC-130A I want to scratchbuild a new nose with Fulton recovery arms for to make it resemble the MC/AC-130 they had in Metal Gear Solid 3. How do I go about doing this without terrible consequences to the model? 
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Sep 13, 2012 02:10
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Look what landed, after somewhere between 120-150 man hours! My Fw-200 Condor is done.  A late model Fw-200 C-8 with the extended gondola. I have to finish the missiles, but I felt like taking a few photos first. I bought a Big Ed super-detailing kit to go with it, which is the first time I've used lots of photoetch with airplanes. I can see why people consider them almost necessary for interiors and landing gear. Though it's kinda hard to see, the interior detail is astonishing.   The ring antenna has a funny story to go with it. The super-detailing kit came with a ultra-thin replacement for the radio hoop...and it got lost. I then used the one that came with the kit, which also got lost. So using some thin-gauge steel wire, I bent myself a replacement.  It will be some time before I build something else German and WW2, if only because the splinter camo I had to do twice to get it right. I love the variety in German ww2 camo, but it is just so much work!  The Flaps in the super-detailing set didn't work well, and in the end I left the hull part of them off.  The interior was great fun. Real looking instruments, metal everywhere.  Oh, and here's one of the reasons I love this hobby. The Fw 200 is very cramped inside, which I've heard before. What I hadn't heard before is the access hatch to the forward part of the Gondola opens directly between the door from the cockpit and the door to the aft part of the plane. Thus, ontop of everything else, crew had to worry about failing into the Gondola-pit while moving around! 
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Sep 13, 2012 20:05
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^^^^ Reminds me of one of the airliners I was on waaaaay back when. You had to slide the pilot's chair forward to get at the hatch into the cargo bay from the cabin. I'm having trouble painting Tamiya Olive Green over salt. Is this a known thing when brushing it on or is it just me having lovely luck?
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Sep 13, 2012 22:03
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Started my next build, a Revell 1/72 P-51D Mustang: Will be filling the joints and sanding it down tomorrow, then get it painted over the weekend. First time using filler, so should be interesting!
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Sep 13, 2012 23:06
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