|
RushMix posted:What are some mileage ranges I should be looking at for Camrys, Neons, Corollas, Civics, and Accords? What problems should I keep an eye out for below 70,000 miles? Dump the Neon from your list - there's no reason you should be looking at it with your budget. The others are perfectly boring and serivceable cars that will be cheap to run and generally uninteresting and you can't go wrong with them. The big thing for any used car is actual condition. Don't fuss too much on miles, unless there is a major maintenance that is due and hasn't been done. Worry only about year as far as it actually impacts the car (i.e. if a 2004 is a substantial upgrade over a 2003, sure; if they're the same car, don't sweat it). But do get picky on how well-kept the car is. Maintenance records, paint condition, interior condition, how things look underhood, how it test drives, Carfax results...there are literally millions of those cars on the road so if you see any one thing on one that makes you wonder if it's a good idea, pass and go onto the next one.
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2012 23:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 19:23 |
|
|
Proposed Budget: Under $30k preferably New or Used: Probably a used formerly fancy-ish car but wouldn't be opposed to a new car that's a good bargain. Body Style: Probably a compact sedan How will you be using the car?: Daily driver Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): Yes but understand I may have to compromise on this somewhat given budget if I buy new. What aspects are most important to you?: Comfort, fun, reliability. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: For practicality, I want a 4 seater with room in for stuff in the trunk, but recently all the cars that have gotten me excited have been coupes. I've been driving my Mom's old '98 Acura Integra for the last 5 years or so. The car has treated me really well but I feel like its time to upgrade. I commute a total of 20-30 miles/day for work and live with 3 friends so having a car that can fit 4 comfortably is probably a must. But as I mentioned above, the cars that have got me excited recently (think Subaru BRZ, Cadillac CTS coupe, Audi A5, G35/37, Porsche Cayman types) have all be impractical 2 seaters or 2+2s that wouldn't actually fit any adult humans in the back. As for sedans, I've thought about used A/S4 or 3series types but don't know what I'd be looking at for new cars in this price range. Pretty much, I'd love to go out and buy a new BRZ or used CTS-V coupe today because they're so drat sexy but I just don't know if I can buy something that impractical.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2012 23:47
|
|
|
I'd be looking at G35 sedans and the Acura TSX/TL.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2012 04:40
|
|
|
Captain Narwhal posted:Proposed Budget: Under $30k preferably You're in luck, because it just so happens that they make a 4 door Audi A5. You like the A5, this is an A5, our 3 roommates fit and each have their own door, this is the car for you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2012 05:16
|
|
|
So, I will at some point in the not-to-distant future be looking for a car to replace my '99 Corolla. I hadn't really considered a Prius since I wanted a hatchback (or ideally wagon) but after reading the comments in this thread and looking at the used Prius prices I'm seriously considering it. Reading some of the reviews, they're quite polarizing. Obviously the Prius wasn't made to run laps at Laguna Seca, but is the driving experience as bad as they make it seem? Coming from my current "driving appliance" (which is at least manual transmission) would I notice a huge downgrade?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2012 19:27
|
|
|
BeastOfExmoor posted:So, I will at some point in the not-to-distant future be looking for a car to replace my '99 Corolla. I hadn't really considered a Prius since I wanted a hatchback (or ideally wagon) but after reading the comments in this thread and looking at the used Prius prices I'm seriously considering it. Reading some of the reviews, they're quite polarizing. Obviously the Prius wasn't made to run laps at Laguna Seca, but is the driving experience as bad as they make it seem? Coming from my current "driving appliance" (which is at least manual transmission) would I notice a huge downgrade? It will drive pretty much like a 99 Corolla.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2012 19:31
|
|
|
nm posted:It will drive pretty much like a 99 Corolla. Even more floaty and disconnected than a 99 Corolla.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2012 21:02
|
|
|
quote:. I hadn't really considered a Prius since I wanted a hatchback The Prius is a hatchback?
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 02:26
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:The Prius is a hatchback? In a way, I suppose. It's somewhere between a hatchback and a sedan since it doesn't have the full space extending all the way to the rear door. I haven't really played around with a Prius to see how much that slanted rear door inhibits space so maybe it's not bad. I unfortunately discovered the existence of the Ford C-Max which is a little sportier and a full-on hatch. Pretty much out of my budget since it's only available new at the moment, unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 03:47
|
|
|
Proposed Budget: Variable. Maximum $20,000 if it's worth it. More concerned about monthly payments (EDIT: Yes, I know. But I've been un/underemployed for 6 years. I don't have a savings, and I need a vehicle.) -- starting a new career with a lot of job security. New or Used: Lightly Used or New. Under 50,000 miles. Body Style: Midsized Sedan. I am a cellist and need to carry my instrument easily. How will you be using the car?: I will be working from home. 80% of the time the car will be for pleasure and for hobbies. 15% of the time, it will be used to get me to and from rehearsals and performances. The other 5% it will be for work meetings and events, some of which could be up to 300-400 miles from home. What aspects are most important to you? In order of importance, starting with most important: - Room for my instrument - Manual transmission (Now that I know how, I'm addicted, and I'd like a 6-speed if possible) - MPG - Bluetooth and AUX input - Cost of ownership/maintenance I went from sitting idle and depressed on Wednesday to landing an interview on Thursday, my car breaking down for the 5th time in the 4 months I've owned it on the way to the interview on Friday, and getting the job the same day. For the first time, I'm going to have a big-kid salary, and drat it I want something that I'm not going to be patching back together every 6 weeks for once. That car failed me when I needed it most, and I'm not giving it another chance. Thus far, I'm looking at the Ford Fusion, the Mazda 6, and the Honda Accord. Of those three, just from internet-shopping, I am most interested in the Fusion. I would like suggestions, opinions, experiences, other vehicles to look at, etc. I haven't been keeping tabs on new vehicles for a while, so...anything you can tell me would be a help. Glorks! fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Aug 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 17:13
|
|
|
Thanks for all the car suggestions. I've decided on a 300c or srt8 due to the price, and how plentiful they are used in Vancouver. The phaeton is a sweet car, but even the v8 model there are way too many things to go wrong. Such as $10,000 shock replacement. I think the plan will be a 300c or srt8 with a supercharger, the quiet est exhaust possible and upgraded shocks, I guess bilsteins.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 19:27
|
|
|
BeastOfExmoor posted:In a way, I suppose. It's somewhere between a hatchback and a sedan since it doesn't have the full space extending all the way to the rear door. I haven't really played around with a Prius to see how much that slanted rear door inhibits space so maybe it's not bad. The prius is pretty big in the cargo area. If you can put the rear seats down, it is pretty good. I think you just need to test drive one. Note that you can rent one for a few days from Hertz, enterprise, Toyota rental cars, etc, which might be the best option. Glorks! posted:Proposed Budget: Variable. Maximum $20,000 if it's worth it. More concerned about monthly payments (EDIT: Yes, I know. But I've been un/underemployed for 6 years. I don't have a savings, and I need a vehicle.) -- starting a new career with a lot of job security. Have you considered hatchbacks and small wagons? That would give you more bang for the buck and would likely be more fun to drive/ Depending on price, I'd look at the Mazda 3 (maybe a Mazdaspeed) or even a fit (the Internet says they fit a cello). nm fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 26, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 19:50
|
|
|
nm posted:The prius is pretty big in the cargo area. If you can put the rear seats down, it is pretty good. Yea, I agree. I travel a lot for work so I'll call around next time I fly somewhere and see if they rent Priuses/Prii.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 20:51
|
|
|
nm posted:I don't want to go all BFC on you, but blowing $20k when you have no savings is a bad idea. Not really; assuming he has a decent down payment, a reliable car is just one of those things you have to get when you have a real job. I agree on the Fit. Good car in that price range. The Mazda, maybe not. Check out the hatch, but you're probably going to run up against that 20k limit. Truecar has the manual i hatchback at $19.1k... chances are tax and tags and fun stuff like "doc fees" would push that closer to $21k.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 23:46
|
|
|
Agronox posted:Not really; assuming he has a decent down payment, a reliable car is just one of those things you have to get when you have a real job. You can blow way less than 20k and have a reliable car. Jobs, especially new jobs, don't last forever, particularly in this economy. Even when it has a "lot of job security" I'd want to get out of the first year before I'm getting a sizable car payment. A used mid-2000s Mazda 3 hatch will be reliable and save him 10 grand.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2012 23:53
|
|
|
nm posted:I don't want to go all BFC on you, but blowing $20k when you have no savings is a bad idea. I am opposed to either a Prius or a Fit. I have spent time in both, and I hate being in them. I can't buy a car I don't enjoy spending time in. A cello does indeed fit across the back seat of a Fit, I can vouch for that. I just REALLY do not want a Fit. I have also thought about something like a Chevy HHR. They're ugly as sin, but I had one as a rental for about two weeks a couple years ago and I was impressed. However, fitting my cello in it required taking up half the rear seating AND half the rear cargo area. I would prefer something that would leave me either an entire back/trunk or an entire rear seat after the instrument is in there. My guess from going with a friend to buy a Mazda 3 in 2010 (hazy memory, granted) is that the Mazda 3 hatch would have the same problem. I'd rather have the 6, but since you suggested it, I'll look at the 3 also. Aesthetically, I also prefer sedans to hatchbacks, although that's not a super-strong preference. I don't disagree with you, nm. Here, however, is my counterpoint: I did say my budget was variable, and that $20,000 is a maximum. I didn't start out looking in that range, but after some research I came to the thought that by paying more for a new car, I'm also buying a warranty. If the difference between 0 miles and a warranty and 75,000 miles and no warranty is, say, $6,000-$8,000, the way I see it I'm more or less buying double the longevity out of the car and the guarantee that I won't have to pay for a major drivetrain repair in the first however-many-years-the-warranty-is-good-for. The difference in cost is likely worth it in that sense, not to mention in the sense that I can FINALLY stop worrying about it after several years of driving beaters that keep falling apart and costing me big unexpected expenses when my resources were already strained. That's a luxury I'm willing to pay for. I am having the car that broke down repaired, and I intend to sell it toward a down payment. I expect to be able to clear at least $3,000 just from that, and as my current housing/living expenses are FAR below what my means will be on this job, if I choose to save for a month or two before buying, I can easily accumulate a significant down payment. I have no problem in principle with used at all, and will certainly be looking at used cars. I will certainly not be looking at $20,000 used cars. If I buy used, I will probably cap out at $10,000-$12,000. I probably should have been far more clear on that part of what I said in my post.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 05:20
|
|
|
I'm kind of in a bind as my beater is at the point where it cannot continue to be driven without putting as much money into it as it's worth (200-300$). On top of that, my budget allows for a maximum of $250/mo. payment. I only have $350 saved up, and I am able to sell my beater to a friend for $200. That brings me to a $550 down payment. The next problem is I have a terrible credit score. Like 450-550~ range..so..here goes.. Proposed Budget: $5,000-$12,000~ @ no more than $250/mo. New or Used: Used, 70k or less miles Body Style: Sedan or Crossover, but I will take what I can get..I am a big guy (overweight and tall) so roomier the better. How will you be using the car?: Driving to and from work mostly. About a 24mi round trip. What aspects are most important to you? MPG, Interior room, Current Mileage Am I dreaming, or is this somehow possible? Am I going to be stuck going to a buy-here pay-here lot and paying 25% APR on marked up piece of crap?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 07:00
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Thanks for all the car suggestions. I've decided on a 300c or srt8 due to the price, and how plentiful they are used in Vancouver. So this is another one of those reccommend-me-a-cars where we all agree which car you should buy and you ignore it? <  >Nothing wrong with the 300 especially the SRT8, but the interior's not great and it's only availible as an automatic. Why not see if you can find a manual 5 series?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 12:07
|
|
|
Obscurity posted:I'm kind of in a bind as my beater is at the point where it cannot continue to be driven without putting as much money into it as it's worth (200-300$). With a 450-550 credit score, expect to get hammered on state maximum APR.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 14:21
|
|
|
If you can even get financing. 450 and no assets/income gets denied a decent percentage of the time. Even if you get financing, you'll pay out the rear end. Have fun! Edit: get a loan, make the payments on time and refi as soon as possible. Go through a CU. edit2: You could get 7500 on a four year term at 18.8% and be under your payment threshold, but I don't know what your state's max is. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Aug 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 14:50
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:So this is another one of those reccommend-me-a-cars where we all agree which car you should buy and you ignore it? < I specifically want an auto, I have an 18 speed manual at work and it gets tiring. Also I asked for other cars to consider, and most of those cars other than the phaeton don't meet the requirements. IE big, comfy and lots of horsepower. A 5 series BMW doesn't have much room. I'm 6'2" and my girlfriend is 5'10", so to fit more than 2 people comfortably requires a decent size rear seat.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 15:15
|
|
|
Speaking of financing, I was wondering if assets are treated the same as income. For example, if you have no income but sufficient savings (say 5x more than the car) could you still get the best APR? Because personally I'd rather have car payments at 2% APR then liquidate the entire car amount to avoid paying 7%. wide stance fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Aug 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 16:46
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:With a 450-550 credit score, expect to get hammered on state maximum APR. I figured as much :\ KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you can even get financing. 450 and no assets/income gets denied a decent percentage of the time. Even if you get financing, you'll pay out the rear end. Have fun! I actually thought about the loan through CU thing. I currently bank with a CU and have at least 3~ years tenure with them so I may be able to get one. I'll talk to them sometime this week. Ohio is my state -- the one credit booster car site I went to wanted to charge 25% so I assume that's the max?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 17:25
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:You're in luck, because it just so happens that they make a 4 door Audi A5. You like the A5, this is an A5, our 3 roommates fit and each have their own door, this is the car for you. Unfortunately, from what I can tell, the A5 sportback is not available in the US  Too bad, I do like the look.I'm going to look into g35 sedan and TL/TSX and used A4/S4 E: any thoughts on the new Altima? Captain Narwhal fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Aug 27, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 20:01
|
|
|
Glorks! posted:I have also thought about something like a Chevy HHR. They're ugly as sin, but I had one as a rental for about two weeks a couple years ago and I was impressed. However, fitting my cello in it required taking up half the rear seating AND half the rear cargo area. I would prefer something that would leave me either an entire back/trunk or an entire rear seat after the instrument is in there. Good luck with that, even with most SUV's that would probably be difficult, maybe it would work with with a minivan. That being said, I own an HHR and it's been a great car, I can fit just as much stuff in it than most SUV's with the economy of a smaller car. I think with the 60/40 split in the rear seat you should have been able to at least have part of the rear seat still available in the HHR.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2012 21:36
|
|
|
I fit a cello in a 1995 nissan maxima and a 2003 honda accord without folding the seats.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 01:14
|
|
|
jonathan posted:I specifically want an auto, I have an 18 speed manual at work and it gets tiring. Also I asked for other cars to consider, and most of those cars other than the phaeton don't meet the requirements. IE big, comfy and lots of horsepower. A 5 series BMW doesn't have much room. I'm 6'2" and my girlfriend is 5'10", so to fit more than 2 people comfortably requires a decent size rear seat. Check out the M35. I can sit in the front (6'4") and my brother (6'1") can sit in the back
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 01:40
|
|
|
Obscurity posted:I'm kind of in a bind as my beater is at the point where it cannot continue to be driven without putting as much money into it as it's worth (200-300$). Have you taken into consideration that you will be required to carry full coverage insurance with a loan as well? That will cost you ~$100/m right there. If you haven't budgeted for that you can forget it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 01:53
|
|
|
This is kind of a multi-parter. So I have a 2002 Suzuki Aerio which my dad bought for me in my last year of college for $2000 in 2009. 3 years later I've spent around a total of $3000 in repairs. I actually had the alternator and a different part (some kind of bracket for the belt) replaced for ~$1300, which I thought would let me save up for a bit longer (like a year) but today the drat thing broke down again, and wouldn't start. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow to have it looked at, but I'm leaning towards finally getting a new car. I've never done the car buying thing, so I've been reading a lot of the forum posts about buying cars, other sites + books about buying cars and so on. It seems like the best idea is to do as much of a downpayment as possible and if needed, get a loan from a credit union. I have about $18,000 saved up in cash, but I think I'd like to use $10,000 of that at most, and move the rest around for saving up for a house downpayment...but I digress. So here are my questions: 1) Would it be unwise to put more money into repairing the car? I don't really know when it's time to call it quits. 2) I'm not currently a member of a credit union. Is it difficult to join a credit union and get a sizeable loan almost immediately? My credit score seems to be decent, I checked at the beginning of this year, and it was between 700~725. If I were to get a new car, I'd like to get one asap. 3) Finally...if I were to get a new car, what's the best fit? Below are my answers to the template. Proposed Budget: max is $25,000 New or Used: Either works, but I'm ok with a used car. Body Style: Coupe is preferred, but a small+sporty sedan works as well How will you be using the car?: Daily drive, would like to have some fun with the car though. What aspects are most important to you? : Biggest thing is reliability. A close second is probably the looks (style + relatively small vehicle), and finally the cost of ownership (would like to avoid super high insurance) Sorry for the lengthy post, this is all new to me so I'm limited to what I've read and the small amount I've heard from people I know.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 05:53
|
|
|
a shameful boehner, do you mind sharing what you ended up going with or what's on your shortlist? I'm in an very similar situation to what you described (budget, height, commuting & usage) and having trouble narrowing down a list. For original content: Proposed Budget: $24,000 out the door is about the max I'm comfortable with. I realize monthly payments are a terrible way to figure out total price, but I can make $400/month happen with no problem (~$20,000 @ 48 months). I've got a 2004 RWD Ford Explorer with ~113,000 miles on it, aiming for $2,750 on a trade, but that may be pushing it. I have the cash for a down payment, but I'd like to put down between $1,000 and $3,000, with $4,500 as a hard upper limit. New or Used: Either would work, if new works within my budget, that's fine. Body Style: SUV/Wagon - I'm 6'7" and legroom has been an issue with smaller cars. I've also never driven a car on a regular basis. How will you be using the car?: 24 mile daily city commute. I seem to end up driving ~4 people more often than not. Weekend trips to the mountains in both summer and winter. Denver metro area, if weather matters. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability/cost of maintenance are both high, MPG of 18+ is fairly important. Import/domestic is unimportant. Style-wise, I like the look of my Explorer but I can come around for the right car. I'm strongly considering the Subaru Outback and a newer Honda Pilot at this point. I like the newer Grand Cherokees and the Xterra, but they both get terrible gas mileage. The idea of an Acura MDX appeals to me but a 2008+ model with low-ish mileage seems to be outside my price range.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 06:13
|
|
|
BeastOfExmoor posted:In a way, I suppose. It's somewhere between a hatchback and a sedan since it doesn't have the full space extending all the way to the rear door. I haven't really played around with a Prius to see how much that slanted rear door inhibits space so maybe it's not bad. You gotta specify which Prius these days, the c and v are definitely hatchbacks. http://www.autoinsane.com/2012/03/02/reviews/first-drive/toyota-prius-c/ http://www.motorward.com/2011/01/toyota-prius-v/
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 06:55
|
|
|
nm posted:Check out the M35. Is the difference between the m35 and 45 engine only ? Its unclear from wikipedia. Photos of the 35 interior seem to have woodgrain, while the 45 has some sort of brushed aluminum look. Are the rear seating area larger in the 45 ?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 06:56
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Is the difference between the m35 and 45 engine only ? Its unclear from wikipedia. Photos of the 35 interior seem to have woodgrain, while the 45 has some sort of brushed aluminum look. You could get either interior in either car. They also changed the powertrain up over the years with a facelift in 2009. There is a "Premium Package" that contained power reclining rear seats, it was quite expensive (like $9-10k).
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 07:37
|
|
|
Previous generation XJR/XJ8L. Do it. You know you want it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 13:25
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Previous generation XJR/XJ8L. Do it. You know you want it. I really like the look of these cars too, but the huge slab of wood trim on the dash kind of looks outdated. These had *all aluminum* bodies, so you'd think they've finally solved the British car rust problem, not to mention it was like ~800lbs lighter than a contemporary BMW 7 series, but they were held together by steel rivets, an apparently during the stamping process bits of steel were left in the press and got into the bodywork under the paint. http://dandmbr.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=bodywork&action=display&thread=297 http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=85&t=889637&nmt= So they actually managed to make a car *entirely out of aluminum* that still turns into a pile of oxidation barely out of warranty. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 14:10
|
|
|
Incompl posted:This is kind of a multi-parter. So I have a 2002 Suzuki Aerio which my dad bought for me in my last year of college for $2000 in 2009. 3 years later I've spent around a total of $3000 in repairs. I actually had the alternator and a different part (some kind of bracket for the belt) replaced for ~$1300, which I thought would let me save up for a bit longer (like a year) but today the drat thing broke down again, and wouldn't start. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow to have it looked at, but I'm leaning towards finally getting a new car. Generally, credit unions are happy to have your business. Just take the time to walk in and explain your situation and you shouldn't have any issues getting a member rate. As to your other questions: 1) Look at repairs as just another form of an auto payment. If you've put in $3k in 3 years, that's a monthly payment of $83 a month. Even with that extra alternator amount added in, it's still about $120 a month in maintenance costs. Compare that to possible monthly payments on a new car of at least that (if not much more) plus increased insurance costs. Is it worth it? It's really up to you so don't feel bad for wanting a new car. 2) I already answered above a bit but auto loan rates are at rock bottom prices. At the very least, get two loan offers from a CU and your local bank. Take them both to the dealer. Take the best deal between the three options. 3) You can either get a subcompact with all the bells and whistles (Sonic, Mazda2, Fiesta) for your price-range or get a sporty compact (Civic Si, Elantra Coupe, Mazda3, Veloster). If you really wanted to tap the budget, you could get a base model Mini or Veloster Turbo. Reliability in this range is a bit hard to say since so many of the available options are recently introduced models. However, you're just as likely to get a bad car from any automaker nowadays so have an open mind with all the automakers. Thwomp fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Aug 28, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 19:56
|
|
|
Proposed Budget: 10-15k Type of car: Used Truck To be used for: Hauling poo poo and as a second city driver. I previously asked about getting a much cheaper truck to just haul poo poo, but have thought about it for a while and decided that our current second car, which is a 93 Mazda sedan, is getting lots of rust and starting to show its age. We don't constantly use a second car, but we definitely want to have two. It won't be driven daily. We would still like something to haul poo poo in (nothing too heavy duty, mainly gardening stuff like dirt and mulch), and would like it to be reasonable gas mileage, so one of the lighter weight trucks. But we have upped the budget to make this a replacement for the Mazda. Previous a Ranger was suggested by multiple folks, but that was for a much lower budget. What would you suggest at this price range? I'd prefer something certified maybe because I don't want to have to worry about too many issues with the car.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2012 20:00
|
|
|
Chin Strap posted:Proposed Budget: 10-15k Your best bet for a small truck is going to be a Ford Ranger or a Mazda B-Series, which is a Ranger with another badge on it. The Tacoma is another good small-ish truck, but a used Taco will have a huge unwarranted price premium on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2012 02:11
|
|
|
^^^ yeah, the ranger is basically the solution to all cheap small truck problems. They made a million of them and they are cheap and durable. jonathan posted:Is the difference between the m35 and 45 engine only ? Its unclear from wikipedia. Photos of the 35 interior seem to have woodgrain, while the 45 has some sort of brushed aluminum look. You could get wood or brushed AL in both cars. Early on the AWD was wood only, but that may have changed. The M45 might have had some premium options only, but the interior size is identical. Throatwarbler posted:So they actually managed to make a car *entirely out of aluminum* that still turns into a pile of oxidation barely out of warranty. nm fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Aug 29, 2012 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2012 02:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 19:23 |
|
|
Looking at m45's now. The interior is nicer than the 300c and bixenons are a plus. On the downside, getting any more power out of it will be a pain in the rear end. The 300c's interior isn't bad either. And the exterior looks better to me. There are a couple m45's for sale in Edmonton for under $20,000. Too bad its a 300mile drive to see them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2012 09:57
|
|