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I'm not seeing that as an option anywhere I check, unfortunately. And sorry, let me clarify my setup a bit. All the computers in my house have no problem wirelessly connecting except the new one. The new one is a desktop with a Dlink 1320 wireless adapter. It will halfway connect, but it won't identify the network, so I'm never able to connect to the internet. It won't even let me access the router through its IP. Something I've noticed that may be completely unrelated. The IP address that the Dlink wireless connection manager shows at the top isn't the same as the ones I've found anywhere else. The IPCONFIG shows the same possibly incorrect one under Autoconfiguration IPv4 Address. Okay, more info that may or may not be relevant. I tried connecting to the internet from my laptop (which connects normally) through the new, nonworking desktop. It won't connect, and the diagnosis says the ip configuration is not right Conkrad fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Aug 28, 2012 |
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Aug 28, 2012 01:39
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So I'm kicking around this thread a bit and have a quick question. Sorry if this has been answered before but there is kind of a lot of information to sift though. I was looking at the Netgear WNR3500L v2 in the OP and it looked like a pretty good option for me (I guess  ). Would this router be alright out of the box or would it be necessary to put tomato on it. I live in an apartment complex and I think I currently have some problems with interference, would better off spending a little more money and getting a dual band router?Thanks. I am a bit of a muggle with this networking wizardry.
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Aug 28, 2012 02:40
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MycroftXXX posted:So I'm kicking around this thread a bit and have a quick question. Sorry if this has been answered before but there is kind of a lot of information to sift though.
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Aug 28, 2012 03:06
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grumperfish posted:I bought a dual-band 3700 and I like it very much. The 5ghz signal is great for our crowded apartment building, and I've just been using the stock firmware. I have a smoothwall box running so the 3700's just been acting as an AP though, so I can't really comment on the Netgear's routing functions. Thanks for the help! The 3700 is a little pricey, is the 3400 comparable (still having duel band and all that)? I mean, I can spend the extra 20 bucks but just trying to save a little cash.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:00
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The 3500L is what I usually recommend to my friends as it doesn't require any firmware fuckery and it works properly right out of the box. It may work in the crowded apartment environment, hopefully it will poo poo up other people's networks instead. I'm running a 3700 and people tend to avoid where it is on the 2.4 GHz spectrum as it's taken about 9 of the 13 channels for itself.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:03
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Conkrad posted:I'm not seeing that as an option anywhere I check, unfortunately. And sorry, let me clarify my setup a bit. All the computers in my house have no problem wirelessly connecting except the new one. The new one is a desktop with a Dlink 1320 wireless adapter. It will halfway connect, but it won't identify the network, so I'm never able to connect to the internet. It won't even let me access the router through its IP. This is one of those things that's easier to work one while operating the computer. I need a lot more information as it's not clear quite what's going on. It could be wrong settings somewhere or that the network card is in a bad position that won't let it connect. The next step is probably easier if you get a friend with some networking knowledge to visit you and have a go fixing the connection.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:07
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Devian666 posted:The 3500L is what I usually recommend to my friends as it doesn't require any firmware fuckery and it works properly right out of the box. It may work in the crowded apartment environment, hopefully it will poo poo up other people's networks instead. I'm running a 3700 and people tend to avoid where it is on the 2.4 GHz spectrum as it's taken about 9 of the 13 channels for itself. Thanks! I'm tempted to go for the 3700, but honestly I think I'm going to go for the 3500L because I don't have a whole lot of time to gently caress around with it. Thanks Devian666 and grumperfish helping a brother out.
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Aug 28, 2012 04:13
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Devian666 posted:This is one of those things that's easier to work one while operating the computer. I need a lot more information as it's not clear quite what's going on. It could be wrong settings somewhere or that the network card is in a bad position that won't let it connect. The next step is probably easier if you get a friend with some networking knowledge to visit you and have a go fixing the connection. Ah, I understand, I was worried about that. This things giving me so many different diagnosis for whats going on its ridiculous. I'm pretty sure I narrowed it down to an IP address/DNS discrepancy, so hopefully that will be able to help someone in person. Thank you for trying, though!
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Aug 28, 2012 05:12
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Question: my phone is on a spectacular data plan that allows tethering with up to 80GB/month before traffic shaping kicks in. I'd quite like to run my home broadband over this. Is there any way to set up a router so that it automagically begins tethering to my phone when it comes in range? If that's not possible, what's the next best option? I've a Galaxy Nexus, ~$100-$150 to spend if needs be, and I'm not afraid of code.
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Aug 29, 2012 10:30
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I'm gonna post here to ask. I'm building a home setup and I'm looking for reasonably priced racks. Does anyone know some resources to look at??
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Aug 29, 2012 18:46
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Illuminati by Nature posted:I've got an Asus RT-N56U on the way. Has anyone had any experience with this one? Welp... I have issues with this. I'm getting dropped connections every 30mins-1hr. If only lasts a second or two but it's always enough to kick me out of any game I'm playing. I've tried all the third party firmwares out there but none of them fix this. Is anyone able to decode this from my logs: code:
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Aug 29, 2012 21:34
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Is it beneficial or terrible or no big deal to be connected via LAN and wireless at the same time? My college apartment complex got a new ISP recently, and the new one offers wireless. I've never had wireless internet before (I know) and I've been trying to figure out how I can take advantage of this stuff to get a possibly better connection. I'm on a laptop with Windows 7 and familiarized myself with the network properties, and found out that I can disable my laptop's wireless chip. I guess my question is, would I benefit from disabling the wireless chip to save memory, or will I get some sort of connection benefit from using LAN and wireless simultaneously?
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Aug 29, 2012 22:25
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There is no realistic benefit, and could even cause a bit of a headache in some circumstances, but probably won't. If the wired connection is reliable, just stick with it.
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Aug 29, 2012 22:34
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Crunchtime posted:I'm gonna post here to ask. I'm building a home setup and I'm looking for reasonably priced racks. Does anyone know some resources to look at?? What's your definition of reasonably priced? How much room do you have? If it's just going in a basement and you can spare the floorspace, then you can probably find some surplus gear up on craigslist or similar. We bought two new 12U racks at work (to be placed in a room not suited to a full rack) a little while ago so we did some shopping in the 'low end' rack market and ended up with two Tripp Lite racks that were about $450ea + wheels as it wasn't going to be wall-mounted. Just be aware that as racks get smaller and cheaper they also start coming in shallow models which limits the maximum depth of your equipment. All that being said, you can get an open frame 2-post rack for cheap. edit: I can't vouch for these guys but they have hundreds of racks in all sorts of configurations.
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Aug 30, 2012 02:30
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I'm trying to set up a wireless bridge between two routers in my house, a WRT54G with stock firmware (primary) and an E1000 with DD-WRT (secondary). On the E1000, I set the wireless mode to be only G, but when I change that on the WRT54, I lose connection. It only seems to work on mixed mode. Is this just the standard Linksys firmware not communicating with DD-WRT right?
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Sep 3, 2012 22:31
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I'm pricing a network setup for a friend. They will be living in Nashville, TN and hooking into Comcast. It's been years since I've upgraded what I have. Would this modem and router setup be good for them? Linksys E2500 (from OP) Motorola Surfboard SB5101 (what I have - DOCSIS 2.0, any reason to go DOCSIS 3.0?) Estimated devices connected: - Desktop computer (Mac) - iPad* - Cellphone* - TV w/Roku or Boxee or some media device of that sort* - Whatever poo poo a roommate of theirs may end up having *wireless or could be wireless
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Sep 4, 2012 03:06
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Looked into this a little out of curiosity, and apparently you aren't alone on this one. There are some people who allegedly have flashed v3.0.x.x beta firmware from ASUS to resolve the issue. Take this all with a grain of salt as I don't actually own this router. http://forums.smallnetbuilder.com/showthread.php?t=7567 Illuminati by Nature posted:Welp... I have issues with this. I'm getting dropped connections every 30mins-1hr. If only lasts a second or two but it's always enough to kick me out of any game I'm playing. I've tried all the third party firmwares out there but none of them fix this. Is anyone able to decode this from my logs:
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Sep 5, 2012 02:08
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So I have a Netgear WNDR3700, and I want to use 5GHz wireless n for the bandwidth I can get out of it (8+MB/s when <10ft away). The problem is when I go more than about 10ft from the AP the signal degrades rapidly. Just one room over (about 20-25ft away) the 5GHz signal is not reliable enough to use, and I only get about 2MB/s using 2.4GHz -- maybe this is partially because I'm in an area where 2.4GHz is pretty saturated? I want to be able to get 8+MB/s wirelessly at a range of 50ft max indoors -- are there any good options for me? I guess I might be limited by the onboard WiFi on my Macbook Air as well... SynVisions fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Sep 5, 2012 |
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Sep 5, 2012 02:43
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Wireless at 5GHz doesn't penetrate or move around physical obstructions that well. It can be easily blocked. At 2.4 GHz the signal will penetrate better but multiple walls in between the router and the device you are using will cause the speed to drop. I would recommend moving the router to a more central location or use a wireless repeater. A wireless repeater will half the theoretical speed but you will get a better signal. If you are getting low speeds at less than 10ft in an open space you may want to look at changing the wireless card in whatever you are using to connect.
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Sep 5, 2012 04:34
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Devian666 posted:Wireless at 5GHz doesn't penetrate or move around physical obstructions that well. It can be easily blocked. At 2.4 GHz the signal will penetrate better but multiple walls in between the router and the device you are using will cause the speed to drop. Hmm, the router is already centralized; just penetrating through a few walls and the 5GHz signal drops out every once in a while. I guess I'm just a bit taken aback that doing 80+Mbps at 20ft indoors is not a given... It seems silly to even try to buy a repeater because I'd basically be putting it 10 ft away in that direction, not to mention going another direction (which I'd like to do). Just as a final question, say I was willing to spend $250+, there really isn't something on the market that can give me 5GHz omnidirectional-ish range of 20ft indoors (yes I realize you can't actually answer this accurately)...? I don't mind having to set up RouterOS or something else.
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Sep 5, 2012 04:59
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Totally TWISTED posted:I'm pricing a network setup for a friend. They will be living in Nashville, TN and hooking into Comcast. If you're buying a modem now, I'd go for docsis 3.0.
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Sep 5, 2012 05:10
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SynVisions posted:Hmm, the router is already centralized; just penetrating through a few walls and the 5GHz signal drops out every once in a while. I get speeds far greater than this from a 3700 at the 10ft range (you should have a connection speed of more than 200 Mbit/s with no obstructions). If you can't get speeds greater than this from a 3700 it's unlikely anything else would help. Again I recommend looking that the devices you're connecting with. If it's not device related then there's something to do with your wall construction or services inside them, or some sort of external interference. Note that I'm assuming that when you're testing your only have one active wireless device and you are connecting to a wired device on your local network. Note that it's difficult to comment on anything else as you haven't given much other information. Lots of people think wireless is wonderful, and it is under the right conditions. If you really need to ensure high local network speeds then use a network cable.
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Sep 5, 2012 05:58
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Hey, all. In the lovely ASCII diagram below, would the two switches benefit from being connected via a 1Gbit/s link rather than a 100Mbit/s link, assuming the two "devices" are transmitting at a full 100Mbit/s each? I'm pretty certain they would, but please let me know if I'm wrong. [First device]----| [Second device]---[First switch]---[Second switch]---[Connection endpoint] Let me know if you don't understand my question, I'll try to rephrase.
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Sep 5, 2012 07:42
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Would the devices benefit, yes, in terms of latency. You would also get a benefit in the speed of the transmission of the same data. When I switched my office from 100 mbit to 1 gigabit there was a minor but noticeable improvement. The improvement helped for general office use as well as when I clog up the network with the data I send across the network.
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Sep 5, 2012 08:34
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If there are only those 3 devices and 2 switches on the network, it would only help with transfers involving all 3 devices at once and only if the far right device is gigabit too.
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Sep 5, 2012 08:49
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diehlr posted:Looked into this a little out of curiosity, and apparently you aren't alone on this one. There are some people who allegedly have flashed v3.0.x.x beta firmware from ASUS to resolve the issue. Take this all with a grain of salt as I don't actually own this router. I've tried this before but they released a new version it seems, will try again. Cheers.
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Sep 5, 2012 09:20
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Am I an idiot for thinking that upgrading my ADSL2+ Netgear N300 (modem + router) to an N600 will improve my ping on TF2? My old 2wire used to hold a constant 25-30 ping to a server in Atlanta, since I had to start using this N300, it's holding at around 70-90 and occasionally spikes into the 140s. I called AT&T to see if they were having some sort of traffic issue but they said everything looks fine on their end. My wife has a Roku HD on the network too, will the N600 improve her streaming as well?
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Sep 6, 2012 13:00
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I'm not sure this is in the exactly right thread but hopefully I can be pointed in the right direction. I work for a University in a department that has access to sensitive information. Because of this our new head of IT for the campus has decided to lock down my department from web browsing. Now, he did this by saying "don't browse the web" and due to the number of users I'm not completely sure he's either got the ability or know-how to track each and every one of us. What I'm wanting to do is to bypass this restriction by using the already created connection to my home synology NAS. The problem with this is that I have certain websites that only function using "on-campus" IP address. When I try to access these websites using my home connection it is refused. I have tried a couple different ways including the "long way around the ocean" by trying to connect to the home VPN, then re-connecting to my work through the work-provided VPN...this didn't work. Since it's just web traffic I'm worried about I thought about a SSH Tunnel or even something as easy as a proxy to my Synology. From what I can catch on Google I understand there's also the ability to do a Split VPN where I could send certain traffic through my regular internet connection and other traffic through the VPN. I'm not sure how to do either and Google isn't being much help on how to set any of this up on my Mac. Has anyone got any ideas so I don't have to resort to using my iPad all day long?
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Sep 6, 2012 20:30
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For something that's just going to be used as an AP, does it matter at all whether I use DD-WRT or one of the TomatoUSB variants? I.e., does one generally offer better wireless performance over the other? I've got a Linksys E3000 that's currently running DD-WRT, but I've picked up some MikroTik gear for my wired network, so I really just need the E3000 for wireless. I'm perfectly happy with DD-WRT, but since I'm going to have to reconfigure it anyway I'm just wondering if there's any compelling reason to throw TomatoUSB (or something else) on there instead? Edit: Welp, I decided while I was futzing around with stuff last night to go ahead and throw TomatoUSB (Toastman RT-N-VLAN) on my E3000. I set up my wireless networks the same way they were in DD-WRT and turned off all the router features so it'd just operate as an AP. I'm not sure if it's just due to different drivers for the wireless chips or some lower level difference, but based on my initial testing I got much better performance from Toastman than I did DD-WRT. I'd get about 60Mbit/sec peak when transferring files over WiFi with DD-WRT, but doing the same transfers with Toastman I'd get about 100-110Mbit/sec peak. chizad fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Sep 7, 2012 |
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Sep 7, 2012 02:21
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I posted about this ridiculous issue with my home network a few weeks back, and even after trying literally everything under the sun to fix it, I am left pretty helpless... so I guess I'll try to explain and start from scratch to really hope someone with some knowledge can maybe chime in... the initial suggestion was replace the modem and that was done to no success. Router: Linksys E2000 w/ tomato (and used a old Linksys WRT) Switch: Trendnet Gigabit 16-port (and tried older ASUS 8-port Gigabit) Modem: Cisco DPC3030 (previously tried two different Motorola SB6121s) The problem is that I lose connection to the internet intermittently, and it is pretty random when it does happen and how long it happens. Anywhere from every 4 to 50 minutes I lose the connection for 45-180 seconds. I can't even begin to describe how frustrating this has been. The devices connected to this setup daily are three Windows 7 systems, 2 Macbooks, 3 iPhones, 2 iPads, a PS3, and an Apple TV. Even before this started happening, the router/setup has handled an additional 5 macbooks, 10 iphones. I also have a Synology NAS on the network. I never lose connection to the router during the drop, and my local network remains online and 100% stable... only the connection to the outside drops. Even after going through so much different hardware the problem persists- I've also disabled wifi on the router, disconnected all but one (and tried separate) devices (both Windows and Mac) to try to see if the problem persists, and it does. And to make all the previous points moot, the same exact problem happens when plugged in directly modem->PC (multiple systems). Considering the problem happens when directly plugged in with the modem, I don't really know what else to do but to point the blame at Cox, my ISP here in New Orleans (this has nothing to do with Isaac, it was happening before the storm). The only problem is their phone support has left me pretty much with low tiered techs the 2-3 times I've called about this- and only one was willing to call out a technician to come out to check out the setup/lines... but I'm not sure tha is even the issue? I'll go ahead and set it up tomorrow, but hopefully someone has an idea...
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Sep 8, 2012 02:57
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Yep I had the same problem with Cox. They had to replace our block's node because it was on the fritz and they ran a new line to the house at the same time.
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Sep 8, 2012 03:01
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Yep I had the same problem with Cox. They had to replace our block's node because it was on the fritz and they ran a new line to the house at the same time. What the gently caress, seriously? How do I get this done? Oh god, this is going to be impossible to get done after the storm. edit: my entire block is having the same issue?
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Sep 8, 2012 03:03
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I can't guarantee it's the same issue, but it sounds like something on Cox's end. Get a technician out there to do a line quality test.
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Sep 8, 2012 03:10
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dox posted:What the gently caress, seriously? How do I get this done? Oh god, this is going to be impossible to get done after the storm. If you have trouble getting help with phone support, try posting your problem in the Cox forum at http://www.dslreports.com/forum/coxhsi They have Cox network techs that frequent the site, and they've helped me in the past with an intermittent problem.
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Sep 8, 2012 03:38
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I just moved into a new place with a D-Link DIR-615 router, and I'm having some serious connection problems with my apple products. My windows PCs seem to handle the wireless just fine but my iPhone and my Macbook Pro will seemingly at random drop the connection. I thought it was only when I was taxing the connection, but the Macbook's been having connection problems when just browsing the net. Is there an incompatibility I'm not aware of or is this just bad luck? Also, should I decide to buy a new router for whatever reason, if I set it up with the same SSID & password, all machines familiar with the old router should detect the network seamlessly, correct?
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Sep 8, 2012 07:34
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suddenlyissoon posted:Has anyone got any ideas so I don't have to resort to using my iPad all day long? Do you have two network cards in the computer you're using? One wireless and one ethernet counts. Are you willing to boot into Windows? If so you may want to look into Force Bind IP. That way you can direct certain software programs to a particular connection. For example establish a shortcut that does: C:\full\path\to\ForceBindIP.exe 1.2.3.4 c:\full\path\to\app.exe Where 1.2.3.4 is the IP of the connection that you're using to hit your home VPN. I haven't had much luck getting Chrome or Firefox to bind, but your VPN program might, I know TightVNC (2.0.x) does well with it.
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Sep 8, 2012 23:03
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I bought a Buffalo WZR-HP-G450H, and so far, it is really poo poo. I am about one floor and one room over, and my signal is -75dBm with an SNR of 13 to 15. My reception is so bad, I'm getting anywhere from 30% to 60% packet loss. Admittedly, there are lots of other wifi points around - I am living in a city - but still, is that really the best that they can do? Should I return it and get a WNDR4500? Should I go a step above and get something with 802.11ac like the R6300, even though most of the laptops in the house (~6people, ~10devices) are still on g?
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Sep 9, 2012 04:24
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Is this an appropriate place to ask about ISP services or is there a better thread for that? I just moved to Seattle and wanted to know about CascadeLink?
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Sep 9, 2012 04:36
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Feenix posted:Is this an appropriate place to ask about ISP services or is there a better thread for that? I just moved to Seattle and wanted to know about CascadeLink? I don't think it's the wrong thread, but have you looked at the DSLReports forums? It's usually a great place to find info, although you have to have a pretty good BS filter.
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Sep 9, 2012 12:32
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EC posted:I don't think it's the wrong thread, but have you looked at the DSLReports forums? It's usually a great place to find info, although you have to have a pretty good BS filter. Thanks. I just looked and maybe I'm Doing something wrong but can't find any info on CascadeLink in Seattle. My issue is this: we're apartment hunting and found a really gorgeous brand new building. We're likely going to submit our rental apps today but the building has exclusivity with CascadeLink. I work from home 5 days a week, bit torrent, use newsgroups and play Ps3 online. I just don't want to get locked into a year of suck. 
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Sep 9, 2012 16:36
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