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Rhyno posted:God drat it. I hope your girlfriend has many other redeeming qualities, because drat.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:25
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nm posted:Problem is that Canada got wagons well after the US stopped getting them. Particularly if you want a turbo and/or a stick. "Well after"? Wasn't it just one year? The US market is much, much larger than Canada's where Subaru only sells 20k cars per year. For pretty much for anything other than a Dodge Caravan you're going to find more/better selection in the US. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 00:25
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Rhyno posted:I'm not that stupid. Oh nooo the crossflow 2.0 is way more reliable, though the 1.8T is a nice little engine. Make sure she puts premium in it, change the oil with synthetic only and make sure it has new coils done under the campaign. In fact, drop by your dealer and check to see if there are any open campaigns on it. Edit: That's actually really good advice for any of you buying a used car. If you get a PPI and everything checks out and you buy the car, drop by the dealer to see if there are any open campaigns on known issues. These will be fixed for free.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:42
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Rhyno posted:I'm not that stupid. Even though that is the less troubling transverse motor, never let non synthetic oil anywhere near it.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:48
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Throatwarbler posted:"Well after"? Wasn't it just one year? The US market is much, much larger than Canada's where Subaru only sells 20k cars per year. For pretty much for anything other than a Dodge Caravan you're going to find more/better selection in the US. Thought the lgt wagon made it to 2007 or 2008 up there? We only got a 2005 in the US. We have more of them in total possily, but way too many people.
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Sep 15, 2012 00:50
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nm posted:Thought the lgt wagon made it to 2007 or 2008 up there? We only got a 2005 in the US. We have more of them in total possily, but way too many people. It's 2007 in the US. I don't know what year they kept it for in Canada, I can't find any for sale in Canada anyway, but 2009 was the last year for the body style world wide. http://autos.yahoo.com/subaru/legacy/2007/2-5-gt-limited-wagon/
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Sep 15, 2012 02:00
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Rhyno posted:God drat it. Good luck bro. At least when poo poo breaks you can say "I told you so" and then do this 
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Sep 15, 2012 02:21
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leica posted:Good luck bro. Oh I'm ready to be smug as poo poo. I ran a Carfax, it checked out so that was a plus. The PPI was good, it'll need brake pads somewhat soon and I'll do an oil change as soon as we take possession. Thankfully I'm not dropping a dime on the car itself. The only thing that didn't work on the car was the driver side power lock switch. Every control worked flawlessly and the AC was so cold it was kind of annoying. In the end I hope she's happy with it and that we luck out on this.
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Sep 15, 2012 02:56
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Rhyno posted:The only thing that didn't work on the car was the driver side power lock switch.  electrical gremlinsHaha, you should be fine, maybe you're lucky and got one of the good ones.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:09
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leica posted:
Yeah, I've had pretty good luck with cars these days, just not selling them.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:11
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leica posted:Haha, you should be fine, maybe you're lucky and got one of the good ones. Throatwarbler posted:Remember that guy who had the thread with the thread titled "400+WHP GTI build" until AI ran him out of the forum and told him to go back to VWvortex? His craftsmanship was decent. He just wrote like a total scene kid. Maybe that grated me more than other people.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:29
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kimbo305 posted:Dude, she wants a Beetle, what more evidence do you need that he's unlucky? I'm sad now.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:31
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Sigh. I think we scrapped the idea of the 300c now. The one clean one that was unmolested has a bad dash rattle that I can't find and the dealer doesn't want to fix it for fear of labour costs. Whatever. So we've been having some discussions: My Rubicon is almost paid off, I think it has another $10,000 owing on it, I might just pay it off in one lump sum. I'm going to keep that vehicle because of love it. Anything I ever don't like about it I can always change, and maybe one day a hemi or LSx swap. However we're going to eventually need a tow rig and I figure a modern diesel pickup with a top interior trim could probably serve our needs for a nice highway vehicle. I don't think GMC/Chevy offers anything with spectacular interior, but the Ford F350 King Ranch really catches my eye. What year did the Ford Powerstroke troubles end, was it with the introduction of the 6.4L ? There is also the Dodge 3500 LongHorn, which can be had in Megacab configuration. I havent seen a longhorn in person, but from the pictures, the interior doesn't seem as nice as the King Ranch. Something about that baseball glove leather and stitching seems really nice. Both can tow well over what I need, but I really want duallie rear axle for the added stability when towing a travel trailer. The side winds we get here are no joke. Anyways, if anyone wants to weigh in on my ramblings. Maybe I should start a new thread asking about the powerstroke.
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Sep 15, 2012 03:47
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I would stay away from any Powerstroke, not worth the risk IMO. Get a Dodge or Chevy.
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Sep 15, 2012 04:17
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Proposed Budget: 10-15k New or Used: I'm leaning towards new, but if used is a better option I don't have a problem with that. Body Style: I'd like something 4 door that provides enough space for myself and a friend or two. My biggest problem is that I'm built like a linebacker and at 6'2 a lot of sedans don't have enough headroom for me to be able to sit up without grinding my head on the ceiling. How will you be using the car?: This will be my work car. Generally I've had ~1 hour drive commutes, but I'm actively looking for a new job right now so that could change. Also it's not uncommon to go places with a couple friends in one car to cut down on gas money. I don't need a lot of bells and whistles, but head room is a must. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) What aspects are most important to you? I'd like to get something that has enough room that I can sit up, is fairly cheap to work on, is reliable, and if possible gets >20 mpg. Also automatic transmission. Honestly I don't know cars that well besides conceptually how a lot of the general mechanics work, and if it gets me to work and back and survives the occasional road trip I'm happy. I can live with lovely acceleration and somewhat poor handling if the car is more reliable In full disclosure I originally learned on a 2000 Mazda MPV.
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Sep 15, 2012 06:02
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Throatwarbler posted:It's 2007 in the US. I don't know what year they kept it for in Canada, I can't find any for sale in Canada anyway, but 2009 was the last year for the body style world wide.
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Sep 15, 2012 11:53
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skipdogg posted:I'd start at 10,500 for that car with it's history. It's hard for me to give good advice on that car because I wouldn't want to buy it personally, but I think 10.5K would be a good starting point considering it's history. It's a former rental, and then the 2nd owner only had it 5 months and put 10,000 miles on it. Not sure whats up with that. Yeah, good points. Screw it, that other Toyota dealership has better deals anyway. I won't be financing though, I can pay in cash. I also found this other dealership that has a "true", "upfront" price for all their vehicles, like here: http://www.momentumvolkswagen.com/used/Toyota/2009-Toyota-Corolla-Houston-b80fe49a0a0d0649014c8c6e080d656b.htm . Any idea what this means? Does it mean it's non-negotiable? On a related note, how do I know what to price to ask for when I walk in? Most of the cars for sale are below KBB value (assuming excellent condition). So do I just offer $1,000 less just because I assume their price is inflated? I won't exactly have any leverage doing that, so won't they just say, "No, the price is x". I really hate bargaining...
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Sep 15, 2012 21:07
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Throatwarbler posted:Oh hello noted VW apologist Leperflesh. Is that a joke or do you seriously not recognize the 20v 1.8T? It was a joke of course. Probably not a good one. Most people (maybe?) assume 4 valves per cylinder, and VW put an I-5 into a lot of their newer small cars, so... eh, whatever it wasn't funny. But, for the record: I am not an unqualified VW fan. I think they often have the entire lineup tarred with the same brush, which isn't fair (there are good VWs and fair VWs as well as bad VWs), but they have made many turds and I have been a critic of the New Beetle since its inception. Hate that loving car. I didn't know they put the 1.8T in it till Rhyno posted that pic, though. Oxford Comma posted:Why does your house not have like 25 cars in various states of disassembly in front of it?! I'm married. Oh and I bought a house. I'm not allowed project car(s) till we fix the patio, the chimney, the garage door, insulate the garage, do some landscaping, update the wiring, remodel the bathrooms, remodel the kitchen, make some shelves, replace the A/C unit, remove the tree on the side of the house, and probably another half-dozen projects I'm blanking on. Oh and have you seen the S-10? It needs a complete teardown and rebuild of the front suspension and steering, some welding work on the drivers-side door, replace the brake master cylinder, flush the transmission, and probably some more stuff too. So in a sense I have a project car. But... yeah, someday I'm gonna have my project car (it will probably be a Scirocco: a good car made by VW!) Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Sep 15, 2012 |
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Sep 15, 2012 21:17
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Proposed Budget: 10-15k New or Used: Used (certified?) Body Style: 2 door preferable How will you be using the car?: hopefully less-than-daily driver, occasional weekend trips Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Nope, fairly basic is fine. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability After a year of getting around (Seattle) on just bicycle and bus, I think I am due for a car. I will be looking for a new job next month, and not having to bus to interviews will be nice. Even if I end up within cycling distance of the next job, it would still be nice to have one for weekend trips, and errands that don't work so well on bike. I enjoy snowshoeing, so something that can handle the Interstate mountain pass would be a plus. I think it is kept pretty clear, but there is always the chance of that freak snowstorm. I would prefer manual, but that's not a deal-breaker. Swarf fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 01:19
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Help, please? Current car situation: I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am with about ~130k miles on it. It's been paid off for about 2 years now (originally 7k when I bought it). I don't estimate that it's even work 1k but it is in good working order despite having a couple of physical flaws (two power windows currently do not work, paint is peeling and there is a part of the body that has been gouged in). Aside from spending about 1k in repairs every year around inspection time, I generally don't have to put in a lot of money into replacing/fixing things. I'm not sure if the 1k is excessive or worth it at this point for this car. New or Used: Used (certified pre-owned?) Proposed budget: I really have no clue -- is up to $15k feasible? I don't have much in savings because of other recent financially draining events but I can definitely afford about a ~$300 car payment. I know it's generally not wise to have a loan for a long amount of time (I'm talking about 60 months) but I expect whatever car I am looking at I will end up driving until I'm in this position again. How will you be using the car? This would be my only car and my work is an hour away so it would be heavily used day in and day out every day; I just wanted to point out that the traffic I encounter is very stop-and-go and Pittsburgh is full of hills and awful construction roads (not sure how much this matters) What aspects are most important to you? -Sedan (nothing compact; not a truck) -Extreme Reliability (want it to last 10+ years (or forever) -AWD (for snow in Pittsburgh) would be nice but not required -Cheap maintenance I guess I should be looking at a honda or a toyota... Let me know if I'm being unrealistic -- I really don't know where to start. Right off the bat from looking at cars (through USAA's car buying service) one of the questions I have is when do I avoid looking at a car when the mileage is too high, meaning do I stop looking at the car when it lists 75k, 100k miles…? LittlePea fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 01:28
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LittlePea posted:
Mileage is less meaningful that it used to be. However, if you want 10 years off of it, I'd aim for under about 120k mi or so, too keep you under about 250,000mi at the end. Many reliable modern cars will run into the mid-200s. That said, if you're financing, very few companies will give you a good deal on financing for a car with over 100kmi. Also, note that with current used car pricing being fairly high, with much, much lower rates on new cars (often 0% or nearby), it might not cost much to go new (and you'll get a full warranty). Also, don't look at payments.
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Sep 16, 2012 01:51
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nm posted:Mileage is less meaningful that it used to be. However, if you want 10 years off of it, I'd aim for under about 120k mi or so, too keep you under about 250,000mi at the end. Many reliable modern cars will run into the mid-200s. Thanks for the advice although I'm not sure what you mean by, "don't look at payments." I'm not sure how I wouldn't need to look at payments because if I'm having to pay $400-500 monthly, that would be a bit too steep for where I am financially and I want to make sure I can afford it.
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Sep 16, 2012 02:20
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LittlePea posted:Thanks for the advice although I'm not sure what you mean by, "don't look at payments." I'm not sure how I wouldn't need to look at payments because if I'm having to pay $400-500 monthly, that would be a bit too steep for where I am financially and I want to make sure I can afford it. There is a huge difference between 300/mo for 24mo and 300/mo for 60mo. Further, it allows the dealer to gently caress you over. If you're focused on the monthly payment, they will focus on that too. Thousands of dollars over the life of the loan are mere tens of dollars monthly, yet, that all that adds up. It gives them more flexibility to gently caress you on the trade and on stupid options.
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Sep 16, 2012 02:44
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Proposed Budget: $8k - 10k New or Used: Used Body Style: Compact two door/four door/ hatchback How will you be using the car?: Commuting to and from work and doing errands, 99% of my driving is less than 30 mile trips. When I carpool with others I'm usually driving so I'd like the option of carrying up to 3 passengers. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) Nope, but I'm not looking for a beater, either. What aspects are most important to you? Fun to drive, sporty, peppy acceleration and sharp handling, inexpensive to maintain. I'm especially interested in Mazda 3-series, Ford Focus, BMW 3-series, Subaru Impreza or any other car that you guys recommend. The thing is, I haven't actually driven any of these cars before, but from what I've read they all seem to be decent vehicles. Is it bad to go to a car dealership just to test drive a car, without having an intention of buying it? I'm trying to avoid honda civics/accords or toyota camrys, since I've driven those for years and they're boring as hell.
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Sep 16, 2012 04:34
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Turd Nelson posted:Proposed Budget: $8k - 10k I have a hard time recommending a subaru for you. The EJ255/2557 (turbo 2.5) have documented piston issues that have been unresolved. The fix is forged pistons, but that isn't exactly a solution until you blow them up. The NA 2.5s are slow. Both the NA impreza and legacy can be fun cars to drive, but they're slow as hell. That said a 2005+ NA subaru will be extremely reliable and low on maintenance. BMW has its own issues. Bad cooling systems. Expensive parts. I don't want a $10,000 BMW if low cost to own is a major concern. (Though they're not that terrible). The Mazda 3 is what I'd recommend. They're pretty reliable and the 2.5 has some grunt, though not that fast. Fun to drive. $10k sneaks you into 2005-2006 Mustang GTs too. They technically have seating for 3 if you have a short person. I know you nixed the Civic, but they're actually fairly good handling cars. Before the current generation they had some of the most sophisticated suspensions around. The Si, which is what I would have recommended though is a bit out of your price range though. How do you define peppy acceleration? nm fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 04:42
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nm posted:I have a hard time recommending a subaru for you. The EJ255/2557 (turbo 2.5) have documented piston issues that have been unresolved. The fix is forged pistons, but that isn't exactly a solution until you blow them up. While I don't want to admit it, I know you're right about BMWs and Subarus. I'm in the process of selling my parent's 98' outback and it's excruciatingly slow to get it up to freeway speeds. However, I will have to say that we have a mechanic who does subaru repairs for stupid-cheap prices. From what I've been reading, the Mazda3 excites me the most so I'm glad you recommend that above all others. For me, peppy acceleration would be 0-60 in under 8 seconds. I suppose that's not the deciding factor, but i don't want a car that struggles to make it up hills with two people in the car (like my subaru.)
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Sep 16, 2012 05:13
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Turd Nelson posted:While I don't want to admit it, I know you're right about BMWs and Subarus. I'm in the process of selling my parent's 98' outback and it's excruciatingly slow to get it up to freeway speeds. However, I will have to say that we have a mechanic who does subaru repairs for stupid-cheap prices. But yeah, I think the Mazda 3 sounds right. Hatch with a stick shift, ideally before redesign (just based on looks).
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Sep 16, 2012 05:31
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nm posted:There is a huge difference between 300/mo for 24mo and 300/mo for 60mo. I understand that, thanks! I figured for a 60 mo lease I could go to 15k for a newer car with less mileage and about 10k for a car with nearly 100k on it that's a bit lower at a 36 mo lease. Now to seriously consider my car options... [Edit] Leaning towards an 08 Honda Accord unless there's anything seriously wrong with it. LittlePea fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Sep 16, 2012 |
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Sep 16, 2012 13:08
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LittlePea posted:I understand that, thanks! I figured for a 60 mo lease I could go to 15k for a newer car with less mileage and about 10k for a car with nearly 100k on it that's a bit lower at a 36 mo lease. I'd recommend if at all possible, not having a note on a car after the powertrain warranty expires. Not always possible, but it would suck to still be making payments on car with a blown transmission. The problem with hondas is that they keep their value too much. This means you don't get that good a value for your money. I'd look at the Mazda6, maybe a ford fusion in that class. If you can go smaller, there's a bit more value down there given your price range.
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Sep 16, 2012 20:29
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LittlePea posted:I understand that, thanks! I figured for a 60 mo lease I could go to 15k for a newer car with less mileage and about 10k for a car with nearly 100k on it that's a bit lower at a 36 mo lease. If you don't have much of a savings cushion built up, I might keep the Pontiac for a bit.
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Sep 16, 2012 22:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If you don't have much of a savings cushion built up, I might keep the Pontiac for a bit. I think I'd agree with this. If you're considering a 60mo loan on a used car, you probably need to save more.
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Sep 16, 2012 23:01
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nm posted:I think I'd agree with this. If you're considering a 60mo loan on a used car, you probably need to save more. If there's something tragically wrong with the car and you don't have savings, yeah go ahead and get a 60mo note I guess. But if it just needs a grand worth of work to keep it up and running for the year, that's a car payment of 83 bucks per month. You're not gonna beat that.
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Sep 16, 2012 23:30
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Thanks for the advice guys but are you sure? I just feel like my 99 grand am seems to have more and more issues every year (specifically with the brakes)...I'm trying to get rid of it before I end up with a huge problem that would potentially "force" me into making a rushed decision because I need wheels. It also seems that every mechanic I've been with tells me that it's a huge pain to work on so I can't try to do any fixes myself. With 130k miles on it already I don't realistically see it lasting too long without needing major replacements. I'm probably naive because I don't really know how auto loans work (I'm still researching) but I figure I could pay more towards it when I am able to without penalties instead of having a significant downpayment/paying cash. Through a credit union (and as it turns out not through USAA) I know I can be approved at a 5% interest rate. If you think that my particular vehicle can make it substantially longer then by all means, I'll keep it. Just for the sake of looking, I can definitely go smaller, but how much smaller? I really do not want a coupe. LittlePea fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 17, 2012 |
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Sep 17, 2012 00:35
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Proposed Budget: $15k-22k New or Used: Used, but would do new if we can swing it. Body Style: Minivan/SUV. Needs 3 rows of seating basically. How will you be using the car?: Shuttling around town, couple small freeway trips on the weekends. Probably a 800+ mile trek out of state 2 or 3 times a year. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? I've become attached to the Ford Sync stuff, but it's not required. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability and utility. This will be the family car for the next 10+ years probably, we have a second car for commutes and long trips. We're looking to trade in one of our sedans for a new family hauler around February or March. We're looking at minivans and SUVs. Trips are mostly around town and to places like Costco, grocery store, etc. We'll be keeping one of our existing sedans for my commute and other quick trips. My wife will be also be visiting relatives out of town a couple times a year, probably about ~800 miles round trip. We'll be hanging onto this car for 10+ years so reliability is #1 priority. As far as Minivans, we've been looking into the Toyota Sienna and Honda Odyssey. These 2 cars seem to be fetching a premium however so most of the ones in our budget are over 75k miles or so, which isn't too bad but I'm just wonder what else is out there. The other 2 cars I've looked at is the Ford Flex and Mazda CX-9. My wife an I absolutely love the styling of the Flex, it's my wife's "dream car". The Flex is pretty pricey however, hitting the top of our budget. I also like the CX-9 but haven't looked too much into it, but it seems like it would fit our needs. We've got a natural aversion to GM cars and our mechanic uncle said the same, but nothing really appeals to us there anyways. We'll have a mix of approximately $8k down, $8k trade and finance the rest. We can wait another 6 months and get more down but with another kid on the way we'd like to get something going sooner rather than later.
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Sep 17, 2012 01:20
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Two questions: - Is it necessary to get even a CPO car checked out by a mechanic? - Is this a really good deal? Should I ask for less?
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Sep 17, 2012 01:51
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Two questions: - Yes - It is ok according to the price range. I'd try to get it down though. Remember, a new 2013 will leave the lot for only $3k more. A new leftover 2012 might only be $1-2k left.
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Sep 17, 2012 01:55
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nm posted:- Yes Really? From what I've researched, it looks like 2012 Corollas are going for about $16.5k. If you're getting a good deal.
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Sep 17, 2012 02:19
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Really? From what I've researched, it looks like 2012 Corollas are going for about $16.5k. If you're getting a good deal.
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Sep 17, 2012 03:18
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Proposed Budget: 10-15k New or Used: Used (certified?) Body Style: 4 door How will you be using the car?: Daily Driver, long moves every 3-4 years Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Nope, fairly basic is fine. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, gas millage not being too terrible, snow driving Hey thread, I currently have my very decent Nissan Cube, and after doing a 700 mile move, I realized something. It is small. Very, Very, Very small, and it fit all my things, after doing voodoo/magic and amazing packing. I want to upgrade to something bigger, that can drive in winter if needed, and still haul enough stuff to fit into a small bachelor pad. Thanks in advance!
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Sep 17, 2012 04:00
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As per this thread, I'm looking at this car: http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...onal&listType=1 Apparently the head gasket on this model WILL blow, given time. Will a mechanic be able to tell fairly easily if it has been replaced, if I can't drag the info out of the dealer? Are there any other problems you guys know offhand about this model/year? If I can get this car, and it works well for a long time, I'd be as happy as a clam.
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Sep 17, 2012 06:21
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