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Can someone reccomend me a decent torque wrench I could get at Sears or Home Depot?
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Sep 30, 2012 19:22
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Can someone reccomend me a decent torque wrench I could get at Sears or Home Depot? Husky tools are not a bad bang for the buck! But again, I am not very brand loyal, as I have a mix of HF, Craftsman, Husky and Kobalt in my tool box. Besides Snap On, my 1/4 ratchet is taking a poo poo... any recommendations? I know I could just replace it with the craftsman warranty, but quite frankly, I am sick of craftsman ratchets.
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Sep 30, 2012 19:36
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Can someone reccomend me a decent torque wrench I could get at Sears or Home Depot? I've had the standard Sears click style torque wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 for years and they are just fine as compared against recently calibrated wrenches.
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Sep 30, 2012 20:18
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Husky tools are not a bad bang for the buck! But again, I am not very brand loyal, as I have a mix of HF, Craftsman, Husky and Kobalt in my tool box. I like the HF extendable ratchet--it has a 3/8 head on one side and 1/4 head on the other side. The action is nice and fine, and you can get a decent amount of torque on it when needed. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-1-4-quarter-inch-dual-drive-extendable-ratchet-98802.html
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Sep 30, 2012 20:40
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Motronic posted:I've had the standard Sears click style torque wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 for years and they are just fine as compared against recently calibrated wrenches. Seconding this (if by "sears" he means "craftsman"), a friend of mine quit his job as a mechanic at a shop that supplied tools and had to borrow some tools from me when he started a new job. He compared my 1/2" drive craftsman against a coworker's snap-on and concluded it was every bit as accurate. TBH it seems clicker-type torque wrenches are well into the "pretty hard to gently caress up" territory.
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Sep 30, 2012 20:56
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Besides Snap On, my 1/4 ratchet is taking a poo poo... any recommendations? I know I could just replace it with the craftsman warranty, but quite frankly, I am sick of craftsman ratchets. Craftsman's thin profile ratchets aren't terrible, and I can't stand their regular ratchets also. For the price I'd look at gearwrench ratchets. I've got their older models (60tooth) and I'd recommend them. I've seen their newer stuff is 84 tooth and they have all the usual flex and handle models.
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Sep 30, 2012 20:57
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I have a Husky torque wrench for the high torque stuff and a Kobalt for the low torque stuff, since the first time I needed a torque wrench that went under 40 foot pounds I was closer to a Lowes than a Home Depot. I found another thing HF didn't manage to gently caress up:  That's a pinion nut rusted in place on a rearend, we simply couldn't break it loose with the cordless impact and didn't have a compressor handy. Ended up not getting it loose with the HF breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe, but I don't think anything short of an O/A torch, some penetrant, and an air impact was gonna do the job, since I was pulling up on the far end of the cheater pipe with everything I had and it didn't come loose. Near as I can tell it stood up to at least 500 foot pounds, probably more like 600 or 700 based on how my back felt the next day. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Oct 1, 2012 |
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Oct 1, 2012 04:30
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velocross posted:Craftsman's thin profile ratchets aren't terrible, and I can't stand their regular ratchets also. For the price I'd look at gearwrench ratchets. I've got their older models (60tooth) and I'd recommend them. I've seen their newer stuff is 84 tooth and they have all the usual flex and handle models. Thanks, I think I will pick up a gearwrench ratchet. I already have the ratcheting wrenches, and they work extremely well.
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Oct 1, 2012 04:40
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kastein posted:I have a Husky torque wrench for the high torque stuff and a Kobalt for the low torque stuff, since the first time I needed a torque wrench that went under 40 foot pounds I was closer to a Lowes than a Home Depot. I remember playing this game on my 68 bug trying to remove the axle nuts. Soak that fucker with pb blaster. I kept soaking the axle nuts on my 58 every couple days whenever I was working on the car, and they actually came loose with -just- the breaker bar and not even that much effort. I was amazed.
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Oct 1, 2012 14:54
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Heh, make a propshaft with a socket instead of a flange on the end of it! Or use a 3/4" drive bar, and jack the end of it up so you're using the weight of the truck.
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Oct 1, 2012 17:21
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kastein posted:I found another thing HF didn't manage to gently caress up: HF makes the best tools that have no moving parts.
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Oct 1, 2012 18:46
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I'm sure heating it up reasonably (read: at least cherry red) and then quenching it with PBblaster/deepcreep would get the job done, but realistically, it is a crusty chrysler 8.25 with 27 spline axle shafts and 3.55 gears. I have a chrysler 8.25 with a 29 spline carrier and 3.55s in it that a friend gave me for free, and he has spare 29 spline shafts and a set of disc brakes he wanted to swap on anyways, so we are going to put the new rearend together and install it tomorrow probably. It's just not worth loving around with the old axle when there's no real reason to keep it. Yep... he's got "well while we're in there... might as well upgrade!" just as bad as I do.
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Oct 1, 2012 19:00
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I'm sure this has been asked before, but what's the best low profile jack I can get at harbor freight? I'd prefer one of the lighter weight ones it at all possible.
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Oct 1, 2012 20:08
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What's the best vise I could ever hope to have, and then what vise should I actually buy? Priorities are weight, smoothness, and durability.
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Oct 2, 2012 01:25
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Anyone know of a store chain that carries this? Only one I've been able to find is Fastenal, but they only sell it in cases of 12 @ $12.50/can. I'm helping my father in law restore his doctor's C1 Corvette and this is going through the decades' worth of
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Oct 2, 2012 03:08
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Geoj posted:Anyone know of a store chain that carries this? http://www.blastercorporation.com/Where_to_Buy_Citrus_Based_Degreaser.html If you're going through that much you should be looking at liquids, not spray cans. Buy this, dilute to 5-10% and have at it.
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Oct 2, 2012 03:32
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Home Despot sells it also.
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Oct 2, 2012 13:12
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If they do its not on their website (same for Grainger, and I've never heard of the other three stores PBB lists on their website.)
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Oct 2, 2012 16:18
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Autozone, Advance Auto and O'Reilly's all carry it. Even my local Harbor Freight carries it.
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Oct 2, 2012 16:58
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McMaster has "Citrus Based Degreasers", $5.12/can (if you buy 12), $12.76/32-oz spray bottle, or $37.22/gallon. The website is awful and I can't link directly to the page, but just do a search for degreaser.
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Oct 2, 2012 17:30
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A Wilton bullet, or any machinists vise made on the USA in the past hundred years. I've got a 3" althol that's massively smooth, very tough, and looks new even though it was forged in 1936. Scour craigslist for a Prentiss, Wilton, Althol, Parker, Monarch, or any of a dozen other makers. Accept nothing with any structural damage (cracks, chipped jaws, bent slides, etc). You can find amazing amounts of info on the garage journal.
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Oct 6, 2012 02:34
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I have two 4" Parker vises that I was lucky enough to acquire that are in excellent shape. They are each as heavy as an 8" Yost is today. And the swivel base clamping arrangement is beautiful. One minor problem with Parker vises is the shape of the jaw insert seat. It is made in such a way that replacement inserts must be made with a custom ground tool or on a shaper. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 13:00 on Oct 6, 2012 |
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Oct 6, 2012 12:55
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What is the best place to get a pressure bleeder kit? I will be using it on a variety of American and Asian vehicles.
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Oct 6, 2012 20:06
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Does anyone make a fluid transfer pump that isn't a towering inferno of poo poo? I have three of them here, none of them work. The latest casualty was a piece of poo poo that lasted all of 5 minutes before dying spectacularly in a messy, smelly explosion of Amsoil 75w90 gear lube. I ended up gravity feeding the remainder of the fluid (about 80 percent of it) into the front diff through a broken syringe and a length of tubing.
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Oct 6, 2012 22:27
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PBCrunch posted:What is the best place to get a pressure bleeder kit? I will be using it on a variety of American and Asian vehicles. I've had a Motive power bleeder for years, they're widely available at online retailers. I got mine from Summit Racing mainly because I live within 10 minutes drive of their Ohio showroom and didn't want to wait for it to arrive. Amazon has the basic kit for $60, but if you're using it on multiple car types you'll need to buy their adapters. There's also the quick & dirty option of buying a cheap garden sprayer, cutting off the sprayer end and threading a barb fitting onto a spare brake fluid reservoir cap.
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Oct 6, 2012 22:43
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Black88GTA posted:Does anyone make a fluid transfer pump that isn't a towering inferno of poo poo? Motive makes one that I happen to like. Its kinda like one one of the brake pressure bleeders with a j-hook on the end.
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Oct 7, 2012 00:24
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Geoj posted:There's also the quick & dirty option of buying a cheap garden sprayer, cutting off the sprayer end and threading a barb fitting onto a spare brake fluid reservoir cap.
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Oct 7, 2012 02:10
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Lowclock posted:Hell, mine is even nicer, with a valve stem to use an air compressor instead of pumping it, and a pressure relief valve. What did you use as a base that came with a valve stem and pressure relief valve? Or did you just add them to a garden sprayer?
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Oct 7, 2012 02:36
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Geoj posted:What did you use as a base that came with a valve stem and pressure relief valve? Or did you just add them to a garden sprayer?
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Oct 7, 2012 15:40
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How much pressure do you need inside the pressure bleeder? Would a garden sprayer rated to 3 bars be enough?
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Oct 7, 2012 17:18
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As far as I know it only needs about 10psi which is about 0.7 bar.
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Oct 7, 2012 18:06
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bolind posted:How much pressure do you need inside the pressure bleeder? Would a garden sprayer rated to 3 bars be enough?
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Oct 7, 2012 19:17
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Brigdh posted:Motive makes one that I happen to like. Its kinda like one one of the brake pressure bleeders with a j-hook on the end. Do you have a link or a model #? I looked around, couldn't find much. I ended up getting two of the $3.99 specials at HF because I need one right now  . Got two because I know at least one of these will not work right.
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Oct 7, 2012 19:21
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The HF squishy-bulb-and-two-hoses transfer pumps work great on thin fluids like gasoline, water, ATF, and motor oil, but there's no way I'd want to use them on gear lube or 15W40. For that, you want something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/barrel-pump-45743.html IIRC that is the pump I bought to do the diffs on my M54A2, not sure where it is now. Pumping 10 gallons of 75W140 GL-5 simply wasn't going to happen with anything else.
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Oct 7, 2012 20:41
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Black88GTA posted:Do you have a link or a model #? I looked around, couldn't find much. I ended up getting two of the $3.99 specials at HF because I need one right now http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/POWER-FILL-PRO-1-gallon_p_79.html
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Oct 7, 2012 21:04
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kastein posted:The HF squishy-bulb-and-two-hoses transfer pumps work great on thin fluids like gasoline, water, ATF, and motor oil, but there's no way I'd want to use them on gear lube or 15W40. I'm not even bothering with the squishy bulb type pumps. I grabbed two of these since I had a coupon knocking them down to $3.99/each. They are the same type I had before though - one of them won't build pressure anymore, the other one the plunger all but seized in there. Both are now in the trash. The latest casualty was one of those ones that looks like a lotion pump that you screw onto the bottle. The barrel pump looks a bit overkill for me, the diffs / transfer case / transmissions I'll be using it for range from 1.5 - 5 quarts. If I could find something like that in a size small enough to fit under a car / be used with quart size bottles, I'd be on it. This looks pretty nice, kind of pricey though. I may pick one up if I can find a deal on it somewhere. Thanks for the link.
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Oct 7, 2012 23:52
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Yeah I hear you there. None of the cheap plastic junk ones really handle gear lube... I gave up and when I need to do a diff on a small vehicle I just put the unopened bottle of gear lube in a sinkful of hot water for a while immediately before using it to thin the lube as much as possible. It still sucks, but at least it isn't quite as bad. Another trick is to put the fluid in sandwich bags, chill them in the freezer, then stack them in the differential as quickly as you can and put the cover back on. When you start driving the car again the bags get torn to shreds and powdered by the ring and pinion. I am not sure I would use this trick on a limited slip diff or a torsen and it clearly won't work on a transmission/transaxle, but it works great otherwise. For transmissions in rwd/4wd vehicles, you can sometimes pop the shifter boot and shifter out and fill the transmission through the shift tower. I leave the fill plug off the side while doing this so I can see when it is full.
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Oct 8, 2012 00:46
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kastein posted:Another trick is to put the fluid in sandwich bags, chill them in the freezer, then stack them in the differential as quickly as you can and put the cover back on. When you start driving the car again the bags get torn to shreds and powdered by the ring and pinion. I am not sure I would use this trick on a limited slip diff or a torsen and it clearly won't work on a transmission/transaxle, but it works great otherwise.  Is this a thing people actually do?
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Oct 8, 2012 13:26
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It's a trick used by offroaders to avoid spilling gear lube when doing trail repairs on a diff, but I can't say as I know of anyone else using it. Obviously the freezer part can't be done offroad. I had the same reaction. Apparently a little very thin plastic bag simply gets shredded instead of clogging everything up like I would expect. Another trick: bring disposable aluminum baking pans to use as impromptu gear oil catch pans.
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Oct 8, 2012 13:54
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Got an old rubbermaid tub you don't like? Cut it down a little and it makes a great catch pan as well. I have one I can't find the lid for any more, and I couldn't find my regular catch pan. So out came the saw-zall and a couple of minutes later I have a catch pan.
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Oct 8, 2012 15:55
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