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Sigh, still having issues with my Asus RT-n16 with Tomato (Shibby mod 1.28 or something). With wired, I'm getting 30+ Mbps. On wireless across all my devices, I'm getting 2-4 MBps. What the hell is going on? This only just started happening today.  InSSider still looks the same as before (my router is Super Awesome, heh): 
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Nov 15, 2012 01:53
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Hmm, so this is in my routing table on the iMac now:code:So I tried adding a route to the iMac from my Air: code:Edit: I really appreciate all the help guys. I know there's a way to do this.
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Nov 15, 2012 02:03
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If the iMac can talk to the two networks already, you don't need to change anything on it except for enabling forwarding (which it sounds like you did). The routes you need to add are on the client devices. Is the air the same as the laptop? Can you make sure a device on 10.0.0.0/24 can ping a) the internet and b) the imac? Then do the same for a device on 10.0.1.0/24.
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Nov 15, 2012 02:23
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Yes the Air is he laptop. They can both ping A and B. Here's something interesting, from the laptop: code:Edit: Ah hah! Got it. Needed to add a route for 10.0.1.0/24 HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Nov 15, 2012 |
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Nov 15, 2012 02:31
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Okay, now, is there a way to have to iMac somehow broadcast these routes on each subnet so I don't have to manually add the static route to each client?
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Nov 15, 2012 02:38
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timb posted:Okay, now, is there a way to have to iMac somehow broadcast these routes on each subnet so I don't have to manually add the static route to each client? Not really. If the Time Capsules supported static routes you wouldn't need to add the routes to each client. Remember that a client doesn't need a special route for the network it's on, just the one on the other side of the iMac.
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Nov 15, 2012 02:41
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It looks like it would be easier doing this via the router method I recommended earlier.
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Nov 15, 2012 03:23
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I think so too. I've got a few old Linksys ones that would work. So, I'd just plug an ethernet connection from each Time Capsule to the Linksys and set the static routes and that would do it? Would I have to set each computer to use the Linksys as the gateway, or could they still use the Time Capsule?
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Nov 15, 2012 04:10
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The internet gateway would still be the time capsules. The router would be set up the same was as indicated in the link I provided earlier. Stock linksys firmware should have the same settings for routing as dd-wrt so you should be able to test this without too much hassle. You should then be able to access the other subnet.
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Nov 15, 2012 04:15
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Is there anything in the $500-range that can do failover between two links? We don't need load balancing, I just want to be able to switch from our cable modem to our DSL line without having to manually do anything. Right now we have a m0n0wall instance running on our ESX box. I thought about throwing another NIC in that server and plugging the DSL line into that, and then when there's an outage, shut the 'Cable Modem' m0n0wall box down and then start up another one configured to use the DSL line. Same IP etc. This would basically be for the hour or two when the cable goes out every 2 months. The other two requirements are that the router has an easy to use DNS forwarding setup - we have like 50 hostnames that we point to a local server for development so we need it to be simple enough for a web programmer to use, when they need to add a new hostname to test a local copy of a site. Also, we need some sort of a VPN capability - we're okay with VPN not working when the cable line is down (then again we can just make vpn2.foobar.com and point that to the DSL IP address) We have a Linksys RV082 or something, we used to use it but m0n0wall's traffic shaping made the 5mb DSL line actually usable. We have a 50mb cable line now so maybe it wouldn't matter.
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Nov 15, 2012 14:31
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Why didn't the RV082 work for your failover needs? I used to use one to failover from cable to DSL at my house.
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Nov 15, 2012 15:17
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fookolt posted:Sigh, still having issues with my Asus RT-n16 with Tomato (Shibby mod 1.28 or something). I mean look at your screenshot it tells you right there for god sake. You're overlapping with 6 other access points with less than -18db. Not to mention any other interference in the area like microwaves, cordless phones, etc. Switch to 5GHz or use wired because your wireless is not going to work well. At the very least turn your bandwidth down to 20MHz instead of 40 and use channel 3 to try and mitigate interference. Nitr0 fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 15, 2012 |
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Nov 15, 2012 18:55
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Bob Morales posted:Right now we have a m0n0wall instance running on our ESX box. You can try doing it with m0n0wall. Put something in cron that runs every minute to check if the link is down, and if so fail over. Something like: ping -c 6 4.2.2.2 || ifconfig $ETHERNET down If your firewall rules are complicated and reference $ETHERNET then you'd have to reload separate rules each time you fail over, etc, and then you start to get further away from using the GUI. It looks like pfsense supports WAN failover, maybe you should try that?
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Nov 15, 2012 19:45
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Nitr0 posted:I mean look at your screenshot it tells you right there for god sake. You're overlapping with 6 other access points with less than -18db. Not to mention any other interference in the area like microwaves, cordless phones, etc. Switch to 5GHz or use wired because your wireless is not going to work well. At the very least turn your bandwidth down to 20MHz instead of 40 and use channel 3 to try and mitigate interference. Well the weird thing is that this literally started happening that day; I looked at inSSider and there's nothing different from before. I was consistently hitting 30+ Mbps before that day. Oh well, I got an Asus RT-N66U and it's amazing. Any recommendations for a USB 5GHz adapter?
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Nov 16, 2012 06:02
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A friend is moving to China for a new job. He's been there before and uses Astrill VPN and has been pretty satisfied with it. He's thinking about getting a router from them so he can use all his devices with Astrill without a hassle: https://www.astrill.com/astrill-vpn-routers.php Is this a ripoff or a decent price for the value? He's not technically inclined.
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Nov 17, 2012 21:08
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Those routers are pricey if you just consider the hardware. Since he's not technical, it might be a decent value, unless he has a technically inclined friend who will set it up and support it for beer.
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Nov 17, 2012 21:32
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SamDabbers posted:Those routers are pricey if you just consider the hardware. Since he's not technical, it might be a decent value, unless he has a technically inclined friend who will set it up and support it for beer. Not in China.
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Nov 17, 2012 21:44
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Expensive for what it is but if he'd rather have the router work instead of dealing with technical headaches then he should just pay the price.
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Nov 17, 2012 22:39
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Thanks for the info!
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Nov 18, 2012 01:18
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I'm trying to get wake on lan working so I can connect to my Windows 8 machine from my iPad while away. It works fine when the PC is in sleep but when shutdown, nothing happens. I have a Gigabyte EP45-UD3P motherboard with the most recent BIOS. I checked and it has Wake on PME enabled, but as far as I know, there aren't any other options that I need to set in the BIOS. Windows has all wake on options enabled in the network settings. Router is running Tomato 1.28, if that matters. Any ideas? UncleGuito fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Nov 18, 2012 |
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Nov 18, 2012 21:23
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Has anyone seen any good router deals coming up in the sales over the next week or so?
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Nov 18, 2012 21:23
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I have a WRT400n running DDWRT (v24-sp2). The router has two antennas, one for the 2.4ghz band, and the other one for the 5ghz band. For a variety of reasons, I can't plug our cable modem directly to this router (or, more accurately, I could but due to its positioning the back half of the apartment wouldn't get any signal). I do, however, have a spare wrt54gs, and line of sight to the back end of the room the modem is in, which is enough distance that devices on the other side of the apartment can get a couple of bars. Is there any way to set up the router so that it will join a wireless G network only for the purposes of acquiring an internet connection? What I want to do is basically use the G-band as a sort of "wireless direct connection" between the modem and the wrt400n, but I want to avoid using the 54gs as the main router because then every N device would basically be throttled down to wireless G speeds. Sorry if this doesn't make any sense, late Sunday night was probably not the best time to write it. Just to get it out of the way, setting up ethernet cables is not an option, as much as I wish I could.
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Nov 19, 2012 05:26
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:Is there any way to set up the router so that it will join a wireless G network only for the purposes of acquiring an internet connection? Put the gs router in client mode and connect it to your dual band router. Bridge the gs wireless interface with the Ethernet interfaces. Disable the DHCP server on the gs. How to do so is an exercise left to the reader. Good luck!
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Nov 19, 2012 05:37
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So here is my current situation - I was looking to replace my 5-6 year old Buffalo router with a shiny new AEBS. I'm providing wifi for my htpc, a couple of laptops, and a couple of phones, all of which are usually within say 40 feet of the router, with the HTPC having direct line of sight to it. The old router was set on channel 1, and I've had no trouble with signal quality. However, I set up the new Airport, get my network up and running, everything works great... for about 10 minutes. Then my macbook drops the connection, the HTPC sees the network but can't access the internet, and I cannot reconnect either device. On the Macbook I get an error that a connection timeout occurred. I powercycle the AEBS, and I can connect to the network again, speeds seem ok... for about 10 minutes until it happens again. I try forcing the device to use channel 1, like my old router, but it doesn't change anything. I thought I may have just gotten a bad unit, so I exchanged it yesterday, and the new unit is having the exact same symptom. So I'm trying to figure out what I am doing wrong that would make Airports fail to function after 10 minutes or so. Any ideas?
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Nov 19, 2012 19:01
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Get everything running then use the utility on the AEBS and select restart from within the utility. For some reason they can be a bit quirky to get running when powered on.
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Nov 19, 2012 19:29
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Do you still have local network connectivity after the dropout? What's above the AEBS in your network (gateway, modem)? Are you running in share a public IP, bridge mode, what?
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Nov 19, 2012 19:32
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No, I appear not to have any connectivity to the AEBS when it decides to drop. Still have the green light on the AEBS, but I cannot connect to it, getting that timeout error. Above the router I have your run of the mill comcast cable modem, thats it. I'll have to look at the device again tonight to see what mode its in, but it should be the default. I'll give restarting from the utility a shot when I get home tonight.
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Nov 19, 2012 19:39
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How does this D-Link compare to some of the routers in the OP? It's $60 on Newegg today. I don't know of any other router deals right now. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-33127215-L015A It seems like most there are outdated and don't match the price tier they're listed under. I'd just like something that has good range for my long apartment (although I recently found out that you can just have two routers broadcasting on the same network which would allow for wide coverage). Stability during torrents and tomato or DD-wRT support would be nice too.
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Nov 19, 2012 20:59
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Mutar posted:No, I appear not to have any connectivity to the AEBS when it decides to drop. Still have the green light on the AEBS, but I cannot connect to it, getting that timeout error. Above the router I have your run of the mill comcast cable modem, thats it. I'll have to look at the device again tonight to see what mode its in, but it should be the default. Yeah the default would be the correct setting in that case if I recall correctly (or these days they might even detect the connection type themselves, can't remember). Anyway, the next step would be to try connecting one device at a time to it. Maybe it has a serious problem with one of your other devices...
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Nov 19, 2012 21:37
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KingKapalone posted:How does this D-Link compare to some of the routers in the OP? It's $60 on Newegg today. I don't know of any other router deals right now. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-33127215-L015A In comparable to a Netgear 3500Lv2. The v2 is another $5 but it's a better router in terms of firmware.
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Nov 19, 2012 21:39
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Dogen posted:Maybe it has a serious problem with one of your other devices... We have a winner?! I was able to keep my macbook and phone connected and streaming netflix/youtubeHD for an hour straight without issue. Then I connected my HTPC - within 5 five minutes I lose connection on all three devices, none of which even see the AEBS network as present. My HTPC is a Lenovo q150? I think is the model... its a POS but it is enough to run sabnzbd and MPC, which is/was good enough for me. I'm a fairly experienced guy with respect to basic network setup, and I've never seen anything quite like this before. Its a Nettop running win7, does anyone know what might cause this? I'm going to connect the HTPC to my old network and see if I can find a more current Wifi driver, but beyond that I'm not sure what I can do to figure it out... EDIT: According to Lenovo I have the only version of the driver for wireless adapter. poo poo. Now what? Altimeter fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 03:51
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The_Franz posted:Better yet, put in some ceiling drops and install a few ceiling mounted APs like the UniFi units. It will give far better coverage than a router stuffed in a closet or surrounded by a metal rack, particularly if you want to use 5Ghz. The next wireless unit I buy for home will be a Unifi AP of some kind. These things are made to work in the Enterprise, but they are inexpensive, and they have great range and features for an AP. I'll still probably run something as a separate router like an old Linksys or Raspberry Pi.
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Nov 20, 2012 04:09
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Mutar posted:EDIT: According to Lenovo I have the only version of the driver for wireless adapter. poo poo. Now what? Disable the wireless card and try another wireless card or usb wireless.
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Nov 20, 2012 08:42
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Fly posted:The next wireless unit I buy for home will be a Unifi AP of some kind. These things are made to work in the Enterprise, but they are inexpensive, and they have great range and features for an AP. I already have a single picostation that covers my entire apartment and halfway down the street but I'm moving to a bigger house soon so hopefully I'll have an excuse to play with UniFi and Airvision. 
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Nov 20, 2012 12:47
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Screw wireless. I'm going back old school, it just works.
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Nov 20, 2012 19:27
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Mutar posted:EDIT: According to Lenovo I have the only version of the driver for wireless adapter. poo poo. Now what? Don't listen to Lenovo, use one of those utilities that tells you what chipset and model number your wireless is.. as far as I can tell it uses a RealTek wireless controller. Once you get the model number, if it's a RealTek just go to http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/ and find the latest for your chipset/OS. It SHOULD be more up-to-date at least than what's on Leonovo's site. Also, I'd put all the Apple laptops/devices that can do 5 GHz on the 5 GHz channel and everything else on the 2.4 GHz channel, the network should feel much peppier on the 5 GHz side. KingKapalone posted:How does this D-Link compare to some of the routers in the OP? It's $60 on Newegg today. I don't know of any other router deals right now. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-33127215-L015A Skimmed over some of the reviews, it tends to get very hot, which means a lower lifespan; also not DD-WRT flashable and it's only 2.4 GHz. I agree with Devian666, I'd rather get the 3500v2 if it were a choice between the two, I see it for just $64 on Amazon. 3500 also has a honking fast 480 MHz CPU and 128 MB RAM, perfect for the onboard gigabit ethernet. Binary Badger fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 21:43
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Citycop posted:Screw wireless. I'm going back old school, it just works. I loving hate nothing more than going into a 5k sq ft mansion that has just been completed and find that there is absolutely no Ethernet run anywhere and they expect me to be able to set wireless up everywhere with just a single router in the basement.
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Nov 20, 2012 22:50
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timb posted:I've got two separate networks in the house. Two DSL modems and two Time Capsules.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:24
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CuddleChunks posted:Is there some pressing reason these networks need to remain separate? It would be simple as hell to flatten this network and put in a router that supports multiple WAN's. Then tie everything together at your new headend, unifi the client computers under a single dhcp range and ta-da, everyone talks together. Or just go to one modem. Unless the building is several city blocks large I doubt you're getting any redundancy out of the setup as it is.
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Nov 20, 2012 23:31
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I've decided to get the Billion BiPAC 7800N modem for our house. I get sick of running through routers every few months and reading over this, it seems like it will solve almost all of our networking problems. We have ADSL+ with PPPoE, and I know our settings pretty well at this point that setting it up shouldn't be a problem. Here's the thing; this product is made in Australia. Checking it out, thankfully it doesn't look like it force you to use their prongs (theirs are horizontal, Unites States is vertical). I was reading over the official site that for power it takes 12V DC 1.5A and I've been reading over Amazon for adapters. I want to make sure I buy the right kind of power adapter. If you search 12V DC 1.5A you see a few that range in voltage of 120 to 240... Will that kill the modem? Anyone happen to have this and could give me some more information? EDIT: Well gently caress, this is a stupid post because it turns out my switch had been screwing us over this whole time. 
Green Puddin fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Nov 21, 2012 |
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Nov 21, 2012 22:26
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