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So I have a few tiny mans that I want to try to sell. I have a question though--what is the easiest way to ship them? Most are unopened and still in blisters with the foam, but a few are partly assembled. I can pad it enough, I just don't know how much I should expect it to cost. I haven't shipped anything in quite a while; am I looking at something like $5 per box? [edit] I'm in the U.S. Aranan fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Nov 19, 2012 |
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Nov 19, 2012 02:51
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CyberLord XP posted:Progress on the Grey tide: They look straight out of a comic book. It's rad as hell
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Nov 19, 2012 02:58
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Aranan posted:So I have a few tiny mans that I want to try to sell. I have a question though--what is the easiest way to ship them? Most are unopened and still in blisters with the foam, but a few are partly assembled. I can pad it enough, I just don't know how much I should expect it to cost. I haven't shipped anything in quite a while; am I looking at something like $5 per box? Get USPS flat rate boxes. It's like 3 bucks.
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Nov 19, 2012 03:09
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Manifest posted:Get USPS flat rate boxes. It's like 3 bucks. This isn't really true, there are several sizes and the smallest is $5.35, the shipper doesn't have to pay for the boxes and you can stop by the post office and pick up as many as you need as long as you plan to use them to mail packages. here are the rates http://postcalc.usps.com/
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Nov 19, 2012 03:53
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Someone posted, although I can't remember the thread, some bases that are designed to look like wooden ship decking. I can't find them again, anybody got any ideas?
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Nov 19, 2012 04:49
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ineptmule posted:Someone posted, although I can't remember the thread, some bases that are designed to look like wooden ship decking. I can't find them again, anybody got any ideas?   Those are some I made out of Extra Firm Scuplty (Polymeric Clay), a straight edge and a mechanical pencil. I rolled out the sculpty on top of a sheet of my Baking Parchment (which i use for my wet palette). Then inscribed the parallel lines with a straight edge. Following this step I carefully used a xacto knife to cut out the shapes of the base. I would take a base, and press it, upside down, into the clay and it would give me the size I needed to cut. Then after cutting out the circles, you simply add in the board ends and the nail holes with the mechanical pencil, then bake it. Glue them down, and prime them!
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Nov 19, 2012 05:32
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CyberLord XP posted:Progress on the Grey tide: I love the use of colours on those.
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Nov 19, 2012 06:49
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dexefiend posted:
Erk. I'll keep that in mind... someone definitely posted some bought ones. I need quite a few though so maybe making them myself is the way to go. Thanks!
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Nov 19, 2012 12:14
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Buffalo squeeze posted:I love the use of colours on those. Thanks! The diorama you put together last month was amazing, so I take that as high praise. For the colors I decided to forgo the usual "one clan, one color scheme" that I would have typically done for an Ork army. Using Grey skin limits my color palette a good deal, but it does tend to make any other colors I use really pop.
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Nov 19, 2012 13:44
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ineptmule posted:Erk. I'll keep that in mind... someone definitely posted some bought ones. I need quite a few though so maybe making them myself is the way to go. Thanks! http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/wood-c-3_14.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25mm-Resin-Bases-30-Round-Timb-Decking-Warhammer-40k-/300412240503?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item45f1f70277 http://www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=20 There's some resin cast ones. Honestly though, dexefiend's look as good or better. You could also make some from wooden stirrer sticks. Just glue them on a base and drill some holes to look like nails.
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Nov 19, 2012 13:45
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Grey orks are a great change, you're right, it does force you to have brighter colors everywhere else. Has anyone seen/tried brown or red/brown (basically Uruk-hai from the Lord of the Rings moveis) orks?
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Nov 19, 2012 13:46
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ineptmule posted:Erk. I'll keep that in mind... someone definitely posted some bought ones. I need quite a few though so maybe making them myself is the way to go. Thanks! I made all those in like an hour or so, with a total cost of 2 dollars. It's like 50 bases, which would be like a hundred bucks!
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Nov 19, 2012 13:58
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Please send help. I've just ordered fake dirt, grass, bushes and weeds and am looking at tiny tiny plants with lust. For some reason I feel as if I need a textured paint that can simulate dirt and one for pavement.
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Nov 19, 2012 14:07
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Mix your own textured paint with cheap house paint and sand!
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Nov 19, 2012 14:15
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Hellbeard posted:For some reason I feel as if I need a textured paint that can simulate dirt and one for pavement. Vallejo Black Lava strikes the right balance of effort, quality, and price, at least for me.
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Nov 19, 2012 14:20
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So i thought i would share what i have slowly been working on between my two jobs and blowing all my money on a pile of plastic crack that builds up in the corner of my room. This squad ive been using to re-learn how to paint, and to learn techniques i never really used like dry brushing - using new paints, like the citidel dry brush range and also playing with cutting things. I hate duplicate models but my laziness will only allow me to do the bare minimum on models i dont see any particular value in, like these cultists. Anyway what do you all think? Comments and criticism much appreciated    Sorry for the rubish lighting and camera. Ive only got a phone drat the cruel harsh unforgiving nature of close up photos.
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Nov 19, 2012 15:09
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Dominion posted:Vallejo Black Lava strikes the right balance of effort, quality, and price, at least for me.
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Nov 19, 2012 15:13
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Those actually give me some ideas for conversions! Good job
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Nov 19, 2012 15:13
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Crowleraptor posted:So i thought i would share what i have slowly been working on between my two jobs and blowing all my money on a pile of plastic crack that builds up in the corner of my room. I really really wish I could paint that cleanly and evenly.
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Nov 19, 2012 15:14
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Thanks for the tip. Here's the update for now. Note the difference in the position of the rifle. It broke off accidentally.     
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Nov 19, 2012 15:51
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Combat Hug
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Nov 19, 2012 16:26
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omnibobb posted:Combat Hug
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Nov 19, 2012 16:42
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One time I caught an insurgent this big!
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Nov 19, 2012 16:46
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God I hate painting skin, guys I got some questions on it though, here: Lips and finishing the eyes, how can I go about this? mix flesh with a lipstick tone for the lips? I'm a bit afraid of doing the black dot on the eyes as I'm trying to avoid that whole O_o look. Glad I got an hour or two to sit down with this mini again though.
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Nov 19, 2012 17:57
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Flipswitch posted:God I hate painting skin, guys I got some questions on it though, here: The way I can get eyes to look ok is to take the eye in 3 steps. First do the eye color. Wait for that to dry and then put the whites to the side of it, covering up the original dot of color until it's the size/shape you want. Let the white dry. Then cover the white with your flesh tone until it's the size/shape you want. Oh what Forza has taught me Too bad I still can't shade for crap to make the rest of it look good
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Nov 19, 2012 18:00
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I find doing a thin vertical line for the pupil is easier, and you really cant tell the difference
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Nov 19, 2012 18:28
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Sweet, thanks guys. I'll play about with a spare miniature and some paper and see what works out for me. I'm giving the lips a shot now.
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Nov 19, 2012 19:27
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Flipswitch posted:Sweet, thanks guys. I'll play about with a spare miniature and some paper and see what works out for me. I'm giving the lips a shot now. Remember to always paint just the bottom lip to avoid clown-face.
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Nov 19, 2012 20:48
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Flipswitch posted:God I hate painting skin, guys I got some questions on it though, here: Use dark brown for the pupils and your flesh shadow color for the bottom lip. You can add a small white dot to the upper corner of the pupil and a small flesh midtone highlight to the center of the lip if you're feeling fancy.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:30
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That seems to work a lot better than I was initially thinking. Thanks Silhouette. Will post it up once it eventually gets finished. I've got two weeks away training now though so I won't get chance to see it til the end of that. e: Yeah, I was wary of having a slap face Sushi, I think I'm avoiding it so far though.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:22
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ineptmule posted:Someone posted, although I can't remember the thread, some bases that are designed to look like wooden ship decking. I can't find them again, anybody got any ideas? It's a little late, but I asked a while back about making dock-looking bases for my Warmachine pirates and was pointed to these guys which I wound up using; http://www.forgecraftgames.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=37
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Nov 20, 2012 00:25
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So I'm slowly catching up on my two year absence from the hobby... and apparently Devlan Mud / Baddab Black are gone? Oh god, how do I paint?! Has anyone found a quick substitute for these, or has everyone started making their own washes now?
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Nov 20, 2012 00:55
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Aranan posted:So I'm slowly catching up on my two year absence from the hobby... and apparently Devlan Mud / Baddab Black are gone? Oh god, how do I paint?!
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Nov 20, 2012 00:57
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Aranan posted:So I'm slowly catching up on my two year absence from the hobby... and apparently Devlan Mud / Baddab Black are gone? Oh god, how do I paint?! I make my own - works out much much cheaper, especially if you do lots of terrain, vehicles or like to dip-wash. Here's what I use, it's the Lester Burley (apparently a famous pro painter) set of recipes: Liquitex Flow Aid Matte Medium Distilled Water FW Acrylic Inks: sepia, black First mix 450ml of distilled water with 50ml of Flow Aid (10:1 ratio) In 1 ounce bottles: fill halfway with Matte Medium fill rest with premix lightly shake ink bottle Softbody Black - add 20 drops of black per ounce (35 per 50ml) Heavy Body Black - 40 drops of black per ounce (50 per 50ml) Dark Sepia - add 40 drops of sepia per ounce (50 per 50ml) If you want more recipes I can post them, I saved all the recipes and pictures from the Dakka Dakka thread where he posted them 'just in case'
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Nov 20, 2012 01:06
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krushgroove posted:I make my own - works out much much cheaper, especially if you do lots of terrain, vehicles or like to dip-wash. LOL, I'm doing the same thing with Les's washes. Anyway, if you don't want to make them, the current equivalents are Army Painter Dark and Strong Tones for Badab Black and Devlan Mud, respectively. EDIT: For more of Les's recipes, he posted them on DakkaDakka. VoodooXT fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Nov 20, 2012 |
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Nov 20, 2012 01:09
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Using just sepia ink is not quite as dark as Devlan mud, it's more like...well, sepia. His recipe for "armor wash" is pretty close to devlan, though, a mix of black and brown.
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Nov 20, 2012 01:31
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Dominion posted:Using just sepia ink is not quite as dark as Devlan mud, it's more like...well, sepia. His recipe for "armor wash" is pretty close to devlan, though, a mix of black and brown. I thought Sewer Water was the equivalent (for 1/2 oz., 60 drops burnt umber and 20 drops black).
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Nov 20, 2012 01:34
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VoodooXT posted:I thought Sewer Water was the equivalent (for 1/2 oz., 60 drops burnt umber and 20 drops black). Could be, I dont remember the recipes exactly.
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Nov 20, 2012 01:39
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Does anyone have any air compressors or mini-compressors to recommend? I'm thinking of getting into airbrushing, and while someone gave some tips a few pages back (and posted this handy video) I'm still sort of at a loss as to what kind of compressor to get. I simply cannot find the Atlantis PT-350 in that video anywhere online, and that would be about perfect for what I need, so something roughly equivalent would be good.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:18
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I bought this compressor not too long ago and it seems pretty decent: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_i=507846 Although, I can't give a proper review because I cannot find a hose that will connect it to my Iwata Eclipse.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:34
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