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So Im running a JL 10W7 off a JL 500/1 in my miata. I have two issues. First, with no boost on the amp, bass turned all the way down on the stock head unit, and my phone in bass reduction mode, the base can be overpowering. Only way to fix that is a new more adjustable head unit right? Second, the miata battery doesn't seem up to task for powering the set up. At slightly loud volumes the lights dim and idle drops. If im having a good time with the top down on the highway, the lights seriously dim and you can tell its having an impact on the sound quality. A friend recommended a capacitor, would this fix my problem? Or is my battery the issue here?
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Dec 11, 2012 04:30
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Turn down the gain on your amp. A capacitor will help considerably, you may want to consider a beefier alternator as well - from what I could dig up Miata alternators don't put out a whole lot of power.
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Dec 11, 2012 04:54
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OneStopShop posted:Dumb question, I have a Compustar remote start system with this remote: You'll need to provide the model of your system, that'll tell you what remotes are compatible with it.
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Dec 11, 2012 19:56
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Sadi posted:So Im running a JL 10W7 off a JL 500/1 in my miata. I have two issues. First, with no boost on the amp, bass turned all the way down on the stock head unit, and my phone in bass reduction mode, the base can be overpowering. Only way to fix that is a new more adjustable head unit right? Not your battery, your alternator. Buy one with more output capacity. A capacitor is a bad band-aid, especially for the issue you're describing.
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Dec 11, 2012 19:58
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I'm looking for a new deck I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. It has the "Premium" sound system which is: MyGig deck (Harmon Kardon touchscreen, double DIN) Which goes to a factory amp under the dash. This amp has 8 output channels The amp hooks up to 7 Infinity brand speakers 2 dash tweeters (unsure if these are crossed via a small crossover inline or attenuated at the amp) 2 dash speakers lower down 2 speakers in the rollbar above the last 2 amp outputs go to a subwoofer in the rear of the vehicle, I think it's an 8" sealed unit. I don't like the deck because the interface is counter intuitive. Browsing music is hard, you can't browse by artist then album, only artist OR album. The deck and amp are both hooked to the vehicle CANBUS interface. The amp actually recieves firmware updates etc via dealer services. The deck runs some form of *nix, as can be seen when doing a firmware update, but I cant find much in the way of custom software. What I want: Is there a double din touchscreen deck out there that has smartphone-like functionality, Maybe something that runs on android ? I want DVD playback while in motion, as well as blue tooth, navigation, and media streaming. I'd like it to hook up to a wifi supplied by my phone for youtube/email/music streaming services etc. Is there anything out there like this ?
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Dec 11, 2012 21:56
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I have been out of the game for some time and need a set of 6.5" Component speakers for my weekend/fun car. I have a Alpine CDA103-BT head unit and I think I still have a 4 channel amp (4x75w RMS) kicking around. Since my last set of old school Rockford Fosgates got stolen, I am wanting to keep this fairly cheap, like some Infinity Kappa CS's. Any other brands I should consider? I have a small 8" infinity sub to toss in the hatch off the other 2 channels.
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Dec 12, 2012 00:41
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 goddamn those CS's look nice, but we have very different definitions of "fairly cheap". I may have to pick up a set of those soon. I currently have some MB Quart components, but MB Quart is part of Maxxsonics now (Hifonics, Crunch).. which I didn't know before buying them.  Check to see if you can bridge 2 channels of that amp before you decide to use it for the sub, that's about all I got.
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Dec 12, 2012 00:50
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jonathan posted:I don't like the deck because the interface is counter intuitive. Browsing music is hard, you can't browse by artist then album, only artist OR album. I don't have any suggestions for you, but yeah this is infuriating, Kenwood did this too on their USB input. I tried to hook up an external drive and the browsing was a god drat nightmare. It's like the people writing stereo software don't actually like music or use stereos. the spyder posted:I have been out of the game for some time and need a set of 6.5" Component speakers for my weekend/fun car. I have a Alpine CDA103-BT head unit and I think I still have a 4 channel amp (4x75w RMS) kicking around. Since my last set of old school Rockford Fosgates got stolen, I am wanting to keep this fairly cheap, like some Infinity Kappa CS's. Any other brands I should consider? I have a small 8" infinity sub to toss in the hatch off the other 2 channels. The Polk db6501 is a great speaker set for the price, very good sound quality and with a good door enclosure, quite good for midbass. They won't be as bright and harsh as the tweeters on the Kappas will be. I've been running a set for 5 years now, no complaints at all and I get compliments on sound quality from people who ride in my car.
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Dec 12, 2012 05:36
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Just wanna throw this out here. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/ I've ordered from these folks a bunch. Always had great transactions. Hell They were out of a pioneer model I wanted and upgraded me to the premier version (added features! Woot!) for free. A++ and what not. EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 12, 2012 05:45
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LloydDobler posted:The Polk db6501 is a great speaker set I can at least vouch for Polk's subwoofers, I've had a DXi-124 for over a year with zero complaints. Hits drat hard and handles a lot of power without a hiccup, and it was pretty cheap (open box from Cowboom.com). I'm pretty out of the loop with speakers in general though - hence my thinking MB Quart was still German when I bought this set.  Nope, US owned now, made in China. 
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Dec 12, 2012 05:46
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Sadi posted:Second, the miata battery doesn't seem up to task for powering the set up. At slightly loud volumes the lights dim and idle drops. If im having a good time with the top down on the highway, the lights seriously dim and you can tell its having an impact on the sound quality. A friend recommended a capacitor, would this fix my problem? Or is my battery the issue here?
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Dec 12, 2012 06:00
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jonathan posted:I'm looking for a new deck Google "carputer". That's probably the only thing you're going to find that will be able to fit that list. Kenwood/Alpine/Pioneer all have nav units that will do MOST of those things, although you'll have to "hack" the deck to do DVD in motion though (and you should be watching the road instead of watching "Fast and Furious" while you're driving), but I don't think there's really anything aftermarket out there right now with the level of integration to do Youtube or e-mail (some will do Pandora and such native if you have the right phone, and most will allow music streaming over bluetooth).
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Dec 12, 2012 06:38
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I'm replacing the stock radio in my 2004 F150 regular cab and I want to add some bass. I'm going to put in some kind of simple powered sub behind the seats, what's a good one? Will 8" sound good or will 6.5" sound better with the stock speakers? This looks pretty nice to me http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_30860_MTX_RT8PT.aspx aventari fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 12, 2012 07:13
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jonathan posted:What I want:
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Dec 12, 2012 07:39
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aventari posted:I'm replacing the stock radio in my 2004 F150 regular cab and I want to add some bass. I'm going to put in some kind of simple powered sub behind the seats, what's a good one? Will 8" sound good or will 6.5" sound better with the stock speakers? This is coming from my experience in a 1980 F-150 regular cab, but should carry over a bit since well, truck is truck - and an 04 will have a bit more room in general. I used an 8" in it, followed by a couple of 8" Bazooka Tubes, followed by two 10's. 6.5 won't do poo poo - in fact, 6.5 is the size of many stock speakers in a lot of cars. You will get zero bass from a 6.5 unless it's in a perfectly designed box, and even then it'll be just enough to make you want more. An 8" tube like the one you linked will give a little bit of a rumble, and still make you want more. And the tubes tend to be very "boomy" - they're fine for, say, gaming speakers on a PC, but for music they really don't sound good. My opinion, obviously.. not everybody will agree with me. I'd really suggest a 10 in a tall/wide/shallow sealed box with a dedicated amp, maybe with some poly-fill. If you listen to bass heavy music (rap, dubstep, etc), you may prefer the sound of a ported box instead, but for rock I really prefer the sound of a sealed enclosure. There's nothing like an amazing drum solo with a box pressed up against the back of your seat cranked to 11  e: mainly, I'm suggesting skipping the tubes because they usually just make you want more bass, which results in you spending more money and selling the tubes at a loss. They're fine for a small rumble, don't expect anything else from them. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Dec 12, 2012 |
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Dec 12, 2012 08:25
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Tubes are a waste of volume from a what-I-have/what-I-get ratio. Get a truck box, and if you need to make it function as a larger volume, put stuffing in it. You get a bit of theoretical volume acoustically when you stuff a box.
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Dec 13, 2012 03:02
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Lowclock posted:Just screw a Nexus 7 case/dock into a dash kit, and get a decent crossover/preamp and you have a better deck then pretty much anything else. That's a really good idea. Is there any examples of this being done that I could look at ?
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Dec 13, 2012 22:35
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jonathan posted:That's a really good idea. Is there any examples of this being done that I could look at ? My question about that as a viable setup would be appropriate software (would have to be something purposed designed for this as the requirements while driving are much different than those while using it "as designed"), the ability to send A2DP to it/through it (play things off of your phone or iPod), and if there's any possibility of bluetooth handsfree integration. I've not paid much attention to what's going on in the tablet-as-a-carpc space (if the even exists) so I wouldn't know where to look. Is there someplace where that breed of nerd hangs out?
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Dec 13, 2012 23:53
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Motronic posted:My question about that as a viable setup would be appropriate software (would have to be something purposed designed for this as the requirements while driving are much different than those while using it "as designed"), the ability to send A2DP to it/through it (play things off of your phone or iPod), and if there's any possibility of bluetooth handsfree integration. The Nexus 7 (and similar low-priced tablets) would make a so-so choice for ICE because they lack external memory and you'd be tied to the tablet's limited internal memory (at least without doing a major workaround with adapters and a full-size USB hub.) Otherwise pretty much everything else you asked about is either available out of the box or can be done with apps...not 100% on sending files to the device via bluetooth, however with the correct file manager its possible to view shared files on a computer network if you know how to set things up on the server side via a wireless network. Apparently there are Android powered headunits in the works that would make this a lot easier (ie, gently caress fiberglassing a 7" tablet into your dashboard.)
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Dec 14, 2012 03:18
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Motronic posted:My question about that as a viable setup would be appropriate software (would have to be something purposed designed for this as the requirements while driving are much different than those while using it "as designed") Motronic posted:the ability to send A2DP to it/through it (play things off of your phone or iPod), and if there's any possibility of bluetooth handsfree integration. Motronic posted:and if there's any possibility of bluetooth handsfree integration. Geoj posted:The Nexus 7 (and similar low-priced tablets) would make a so-so choice for ICE because they lack external memory Geoj posted:Apparently there are Android powered headunits in the works that would make this a lot easier (ie, gently caress fiberglassing a 7" tablet into your dashboard.) That article posted:"running Android 2.3" Fiberglass isn't that hard, especially on something that size. Make a small buck out of wood and a double din dash kit and lay a couple layers down. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Dec 14, 2012 |
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Dec 14, 2012 03:45
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Lowclock posted:Not really. You can connect whatever through USB, but you need an app or a hack and a USB OTG cable, not a normal one. Geoj posted:(at least without doing a major workaround with adapters and a full-size USB hub.)
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Dec 14, 2012 03:48
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Geoj posted:.not 100% on sending files to the device via bluetooth, however with the correct file manager its possible to view shared files on a computer network if you know how to set things up on the server side via a wireless network. No normal person wants to do this. I'm talking about pressing a button that allows the audio from my A2DP paired device to output audio to whatever the tablet is attached to. Lowclock posted:There's 8 bazillion different skinnable interfaces and poo poo for this. So what would one look for to find these apps? Do you have a name of one? Because I have drat near every android handset as well a couple of nexus 7's and a few other android tablets on shelves at my office. If it's really not poo poo-level "I don't get what people who don't see operating their car stereo as a hobby" type apps that actually just make things happen properly it might be worth it.
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Dec 14, 2012 04:07
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Blah quote is not edit.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Dec 14, 2012 |
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Dec 14, 2012 04:07
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Geoj posted:(at least without doing a major workaround with adapters and a full-size USB hub.) E: VVV Nice. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Dec 14, 2012 |
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Dec 14, 2012 04:32
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Lowclock posted:Well you only have to do it once, but I also don't know if you can somehow switch between charging and USB OTG. Something like that would be easy to make but good luck buying one. My Galaxy Note with Android 4.0 supports usb OTG, but when I plug the OTG cable into a powered hub (USB M-M cable) it also charges. I didn't think it would, but it does. Pretty snazzy.
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Dec 14, 2012 04:33
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How about something stupidly simple? I have a 2012 f-150 with a stock system in it. I like to turn the radio up loud from time to time. I've also already had to replace both tweeters and the front passenger door speaker. I don't really need anything to be louder nor do i really care to replace the head unit(Sync system). I just want speakers that I can turn up and not break.
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Dec 14, 2012 07:24
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Uhg, so a deck as good as a tablet isnt here yet. Seems like there is a market for one. Subwoofers: Which ones are accurate/fast, and also go below 20hz ?
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Dec 14, 2012 11:54
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jonathan posted:Subwoofers: Which ones are accurate/fast jonathan posted:and also go below 20hz ?
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Dec 14, 2012 18:08
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Lowclock posted:This is more up to the enclosure, unless you get some really really awful subs. If it's properly designed and tested, you can make any style of box (and dare I say, sub) sound great. lots of content down there in movies, and some songs. I love sub 20hz. Feels like you're drowning ! If I can do 10hz in my theater room (-3db at 14hz) which is 3000 cubic feet, and have the sub sound crisp and great up to 80hz why can't I do that in a vehicle ?
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Dec 14, 2012 20:34
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I don't know about movies and stuff. Every car I've ever done focused on sound you can hear. I'm interested what these sub-20hz songs are.
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Dec 14, 2012 21:15
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Lowclock posted:I don't know about movies and stuff. Every car I've ever done focused on sound you can hear. I'm interested what these sub-20hz songs are. Sub 20hz you can't hear, but you can feel it and it's also linked to making a song sound good due to psychoacoustics. Any good home theater sub setup will dig down below 20hz, with a lot of setups going below 10hz. Since. I do a 12 hour trip to the coast from my work place fairly often, I'd like to have a home theater type sound system since the old lady watches movies while we do the drive. And sometimes we listen to really loving silly music, like 2 hours of C&C Music Factory
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Dec 14, 2012 21:37
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jonathan posted:And sometimes we listen to really loving silly music, like 2 hours of C&C Music Factory Things that make you go Hz. v  vYou audiophiles who drive screaming jimmys confuse me.
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Dec 14, 2012 22:05
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Danley DTS-10 strapped to the top of the roll cage.
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Dec 14, 2012 22:26
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Motronic posted:I'm talking about pressing a button that allows the audio from my A2DP paired device to output audio to whatever the tablet is attached to. If you want to stream audio off of your phone it would be a lot easier to just install a bluetooth capable headunit and pair the phone to it instead of going through the trouble of custom-mounting a tablet in your dashboard.
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Dec 15, 2012 03:17
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Honestly, it might be easier to get a non-touchscreen headunit with bluetooth and then put in an arm mount or something for the tablet. Treat the HU like the receiver in a home theater, and the tablet like an HTPC. It'd get you pretty much everything on the list except the dvd playback.
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Dec 15, 2012 03:38
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What's the default recommendation on adding a subwoofer to a factory deck? I had an '07 Civic Si that I disconnected the factory woofer on, ran the sub speaker wire as a speaker level input into an amp, and got one of those boxes that acts as a remote wire from a key switched +12v line. I think I had it hooked to the power antenna. From there it was just power and ground. Pretty much the same? I'd love to have a single 10 or 12 in a small sealed box, but may not be able to convince the wife :-) the Civic was totaled and I sold all the stuff in the trunk to some dude off craigslist. Really wish I had kept it all now.
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Dec 15, 2012 03:55
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Geoj posted:If you want to stream audio off of your phone it would be a lot easier to just install a bluetooth capable headunit and pair the phone to it instead of going through the trouble of custom-mounting a tablet in your dashboard. You're missing the point I'm making: I'm looking for it all. If you're saying a tablet can do that then tell me what I run on it. I get that if I have only that requirement a production head unit is a better choice. I'm a geek. I get it. But when other-discipline-geeks tell me something is doable like this I'm gonna ask questions to see how it fits at east basic functionality while adding more for the pain it will likely take to make it work. I'm not seeing how it works out.
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Dec 15, 2012 04:58
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jonathan posted:Sub 20hz you can't hear, but you can feel it and it's also linked to making a song sound good due to psychoacoustics. I think bottom line is you want a big loving speaker and a big loving amp. Most car speakers cut off around 20-25 hz and most car amps have subsonic filters, just because you can't drive them with 220V like you can in a home theater. You're pushing 14v at around 60A realistically. The head accountant at my work is a home theater freak and he has 2 subs wired to 220 at 30 amps, each on their own breaker, and he's thrown the breakers before. So yeah, home is not car. The most you're going to get out of a car without adding extra alternators is around 600 watts, so that super super super low poo poo you want is probably not ever going to really satisfy. You can try though. That's why tuning is really important.
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Dec 15, 2012 05:56
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I hadn't thought of the electrical limits of a car. Good point. So, in that case, what could I do to get accurate tight sounding bass ? I think the easiest setup would be to toss the factory sub, and run the speaker level signal to an amp to power a sub. There is good aftermarket support for sub boxes that fit a jeep, however I have no idea which ones are actually good. I think the loudest I ever listen is about 95db, and even then it's not for very long.
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Dec 15, 2012 06:50
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The flattest response will come from a small sealed box. If you have the space, a nice beefy 12" in a 1 ft³ box will do you right. A 15" will go deeper but you give up more cargo space. Ported boxes and band pass boxes have peaks that are tuned in. I would stay away from any box that forces you to use a shallow mount sub, those tend to be a compromise. Like I plan to use one in my daily driver wagon, but I'm already satisfied with the bass I get out of 4 6.5"s in the doors. I just want a little more. In my convertible I'm unsatisfied with a single 12 in the trunk, because it's too hard to hear it while driving. Each car has its own problems and advantages.
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Dec 15, 2012 08:16
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