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It's heavy and expensive (new) but it's a good engine otherwise. DSG only on the VR6 though.
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Dec 24, 2012 15:08
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Throatwarbler posted:Have they fixed all this poo poo yet? If so then I only have to worry about the defective piston rings/oil consumption and the intake carbon build up then? I know they had oil pump issues.
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Dec 25, 2012 05:38
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I read the manual transmissions on these are poo poo too, defective throwout bearing/clutch fork or something. If I want a good looking 2.0T FWD with a manual I'll take a Buick Regal.
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This thread can be the embodiment of the parable of the goon in a hole who insists on digging his way out, despite the pleas of other goons.
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Dec 25, 2012 05:54
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Next year I will be in the market for roughly a 25k used or 30k new sports car. I don't 'need' anything, as in luxury. If I could get a quality super 7 for that I'd be all over it. I was thinking an elise or BRZ (new), but honastly I'm up for anything. Comfort is of no concern. I already have a family CUV and a muscle car. Handling, RWD and light. What would you do with 25k?
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Dec 25, 2012 06:23
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goodfuldead posted:Next year I will be in the market for roughly a 25k used or 30k new sports car. I don't 'need' anything, as in luxury. If I could get a quality super 7 for that I'd be all over it. I was thinking an elise or BRZ (new), but honastly I'm up for anything. Comfort is of no concern. I already have a family CUV and a muscle car. Handling, RWD and light. What would you do with 25k? Do you need to park it on the street at all? If so, the Elise does not have real bumpers. Anyone bumping the car can cause serious chassis damage. Otherwise, a pretty awesome choice. I've driven the FR-S in anger, and it really just felt like an RX-8 with a less fun engine. The RX-8 has some engine issues, but honestly a newer one that you actually check the oil (they consume oil by design, it is not a flaw) on will be fine. Other decent choices would be an S2000 or a boxster/cayman. Will you be tracking or autocrossing the car?
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Dec 25, 2012 06:44
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Is there a best (for the loanee) way to go from one car with a payment to another car that will need a payment? I'm 6k away from the end of the loan on my current car, and I'm considering it as trade-in. If I'm aggressive, I can pay it off in 3 or 4 months. But if there's financial advantages to trading it in with money left on the loan, I would consider that. destructo mentioned seriously good rates through PenFed, and that got me thinking about whether it'd be possible to soften the blow of the trade.
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Dec 25, 2012 10:04
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nm posted:Do you need to park it on the street at all? If so, the Elise does not have real bumpers. Anyone bumping the car can cause serious chassis damage. Otherwise, a pretty awesome choice. Nah, I have a dedicated garage space for my fun cars. I own a bodyshop, so kits/whatever doesn't scare me. I want an absurd car. I want to drive something that feels/is a race car. And, yes, I will autox/track. I've owned wrx's, mustang gt's (new edge, fox, s197's, sn95's and a couple first gens. I rock a 65 merc comet cyclone 289hipo in the summer/fall/spring. I am tired of body roll/understeering. Also the 'delicateness' of a car doesn't matter I'll have full coverage on anything i get.
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Dec 26, 2012 03:01
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Elise, Spec Miata, Cayman S, or an NSX.
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Dec 26, 2012 03:21
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I don't think any 30k new car will be aggressive enough for you. There'll be too many compromises.
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Dec 26, 2012 03:48
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goodfuldead posted:Nah, I have a dedicated garage space for my fun cars. I own a bodyshop, so kits/whatever doesn't scare me. I want an absurd car. I want to drive something that feels/is a race car. And, yes, I will autox/track. I've owned wrx's, mustang gt's (new edge, fox, s197's, sn95's and a couple first gens. I rock a 65 merc comet cyclone 289hipo in the summer/fall/spring. I am tired of body roll/understeering. You're getting a Lotus.
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Dec 26, 2012 03:58
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goodfuldead posted:Nah, I have a dedicated garage space for my fun cars. I own a bodyshop, so kits/whatever doesn't scare me. I want an absurd car. I want to drive something that feels/is a race car. And, yes, I will autox/track. I've owned wrx's, mustang gt's (new edge, fox, s197's, sn95's and a couple first gens. I rock a 65 merc comet cyclone 289hipo in the summer/fall/spring. I am tired of body roll/understeering. Can you get a lotus 7/caterham kit over here? Cause those are crazy and seem like the definition of what you're looking for. No idea on prices, but I'd think a kit would fall in there. Flyin miata had some wacky body reduction kit for the miata that looks sort of like one. Or you could drop an ls3 in a miata. edit: the caterham kits look like they'd be outside the price range, but Flyin Miata's Westfield kit looks like it could be pretty cool. The kit makes them weigh something like 1300 lbs, so even a very mild turbo would turn it into a rocket. powderific fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 04:30
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goodfuldead posted:Nah, I have a dedicated garage space for my fun cars. I own a bodyshop, so kits/whatever doesn't scare me. I want an absurd car. I want to drive something that feels/is a race car. And, yes, I will autox/track. I've owned wrx's, mustang gt's (new edge, fox, s197's, sn95's and a couple first gens. I rock a 65 merc comet cyclone 289hipo in the summer/fall/spring. I am tired of body roll/understeering. Spend an extra 25k and get an Ariel Atom or Caterham if you want a true race car. Otherwise, a used Lotus or Porsche Cayman S is as good as it'll get.
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Dec 26, 2012 07:02
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Proposed Budget: Up to $1300. Used Body Style: 4 Door Style: It would be nice to have a car with a hatchback and four doors for moving and buying big things without needing to have it hauled- I'm even kind of tempted by trucks that I see for cheap, willfully ignoring how much the low mpg would cost me. My current car has been crapping out for a while though, and only getting around 15 mpg even though it's a compact, however, so maybe I wouldn't notice a huge difference. Car usage: I drive 13 miles on the highway to work every day. and now that it won't accelerate beyond 50 mpg or switch into higher gears, I need to get a different car asap. Like, within a few days. It would be nice to have a car reliable enough to take the nearest big city, about 100 miles, every so often. It's either me or one other person most of the time. What aspects are most imortant to you? Reliability, and cost of repair and maintenance. Other: I don't think that it would be financially responsible of me to commit to car payments considering how much money I have free from other obligations per month. I was looking at a 1996 Saturn SL2 on Craigslist, and I'll be calling a couple of junk yards too. The tone of the saturn guy seems to be that of someone who's meticulous about repair and maintenance. Is there anything specific type of repair that is likely to be needed on a high-mile Saturn that I should ask if he's had done already? Same question for a 2002 Ford Focus for suspiciously cheap that does not have any pictures or information at all, really. Edit: I don't drive stick at the moment, but my father or my boyfriend can teach me. Hopefully it won't take more than a few days to learn. Pester fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 20:03
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Proposed Budget: Not to exceed $25,000. Ideally 20,000. Used or New Body Style: 4 door Crossover or Sedan Use: Daily driver Most important aspects: AWD, reliability, good MPG I've got a 2003 Mazda 6 w. 80k miles that has been non-stop problems this year. I need to ditch it and get something else before I have to dump more money into it. I've been looking at getting either a used Murano or Rogue, or possibly a new Rogue. I don't really have that much attachment to those Nissans, I just think they look pretty. Basically if it has AWD, doesn't look like rear end, gets good MPG and won't break all the loving time, I'm interested in suggestions.
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Dec 26, 2012 22:12
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nm posted:You're getting a Lotus. Eh, I dunno, I think Lotuses are kind of played out these days. Every comparison on the C&D lightning lap has the Elise/Exige posting track times that are basically around that of a base model C6 Corvette. A C6 Z06 is significantly faster while also having "comfort " features like carpets and adjustable seats and a cabin that normal people can fit in. The Elise isn't really a real "fast" fast car, so much as "pretty fast for a car with a Corolla engine". It might make more sense in European countries where you have to pay significantly more money to get a 7.0l engine and foot-wide tires, but in the US it's just a shoddily built (There was an AI poster that had his Elise's rear suspension come apart on the highway because some parts weren't installed with the right torque at the factory and almost did him in. He made a thread about it a while back) Lucas parts bin that isn't very fast for the price.
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Dec 27, 2012 00:07
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Pester posted:Proposed Budget: Up to $1300. No one is going to reply to this because there is nothing anyone can help you with on a $1300 car. The make and model won't matter because for that amount of money you're looking at a very questionable proposition no matter what kind of car it is. There are people in AI who successfully buy and own very cheap cars because they know what they are doing and can at least do some minor repair work themselves. Either you can become one of these people (pick a model, find some forums and other internet resources and learn it inside out, assuming you already have a basic knowledge of how cars/internal combustion engines work), or car ownership isn't for you right now. How do you even get insurance when you only have $1300 to spend on a car? Vasudus posted:Proposed Budget: Not to exceed $25,000. Ideally 20,000. The Mazda6 isn't AWD, why do you suddenly need AWD now when you didn't before? In any case you can click my post history in this thread and see a bunch of posts I made about roguhly the same kind of car. For sedans under $30k with AWD you're basically just looking at Subarus. I mean you could look at Suzuki Kizashis or Mitsubishi Lancers but those are really not good cars for people posting in this thread. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 03:25
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Throatwarbler posted:Eh, I dunno, I think Lotuses are kind of played out these days. Every comparison on the C&D lightning lap has the Elise/Exige posting track times that are basically around that of a base model C6 Corvette. A C6 Z06 is significantly faster while also having "comfort " features like carpets and adjustable seats and a cabin that normal people can fit in. The Elise isn't really a real "fast" fast car, so much as "pretty fast for a car with a Corolla engine". It might make more sense in European countries where you have to pay significantly more money to get a 7.0l engine and foot-wide tires, but in the US it's just a shoddily built (There was an AI poster that had his Elise's rear suspension come apart on the highway because some parts weren't installed with the right torque at the factory and almost did him in. He made a thread about it a while back) Lucas parts bin that isn't very fast for the price. The problem with corvettes and the like is that when you track them, the consumables on a heavier car (3300lbs is heavy for a track car) get expensive. I track a heavy car myself.
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Dec 27, 2012 03:37
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I just think that Lotus has been way oversold by Top Gear and the like. Cars like the Elise are (for the US market at least) clearly taking the "add lightness" mantra far past the point of diminishing returns, and it's just all self-flagellation at that point because for even with all the lightness added they really aren't that fast and certainly not very well built. Not that self flagellation isn't a perfectly legitimate reason to buy a car of course.
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Dec 27, 2012 03:49
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Yeah, dream car would be a used s7 or a used factory five cobra. I'm sorry I forgot to mention no vettes or camaros. Not a chevy fan. My old car isn't what you'd call 'big power' by todays standards, but I'm cool with less power for lower weight. So is the elise not well built? I mean I'd like to put about 6-7k a year on a car I can drive balls to the wall constantly. I live in ky. I'd hate to have something that my dad would bitch about. He's old and believes we should all drive first gen mustangs (or sn95's for some god awful reason) for all our performance needs. Can an Elise handle 100k miles or do they wear out quickly? I can service the car my self, on a constant basis, if thats what it needs. goodfuldead fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 04:39
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I am looking to buy a car! Proposed Budget: 15,000 max, preferably. New or Used: Either - prefer an OK new to a Great-but-worn used. Body Style: I quite like Hatchbacks. How will you be using the car?: Daily use, doesn't need to go on long treks often. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Don't care, manual is fine with me. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, handling, and aesthetics. It doesn't need to be super sporty, but less-boring cars are preferred. Thanks! edit: Just some additional info: The cars I've had my eye on specifically are the Ford Fiesta, Honda Fit, Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit, and Mazda2/3. That's roughly in order of preference, but I don't really know enough about them specifically to choose a car from those, and I'm very open to suggestions of other cars I may have missed. It should probably be noted that this is for a first car. Sarcophallus fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 05:35
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nm posted:The problem with corvettes and the like is that when you track them, the consumables on a heavier car (3300lbs is heavy for a track car) get expensive. I track a heavy car myself. A Z06 is probably midpack in terms of cars that show up on the average track day. It's 3150lbs or so. But yes, the rotors are prone to cracking if you brake hard frequently, and tires are no joke. That said, the Z06 doesn't feel like a race car. Its seat is ridiculously bad. It has no steering feedback. It's fast and handles well, but I would call it a muscle car, not a race car. A race car is one that is sorta painful to drive (your knees banging into bare metal on every turn) and live with but has extremely direct and meaningful operation in all of its controls. I don't think lap time is a factor. goodfuldead posted:So is the elise not well built? I mean I'd like to put about 6-7k a year on a car I can drive balls to the wall constantly. I live in ky. Based on what you've said, you would probably do ok with an RX8 or S2000. Still a ton more refined than an Elise, but raw enough. I wonder if an RX8 or Elise is cheaper for each year of ownership.
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Dec 27, 2012 05:51
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goodfuldead posted:So is the elise not well built? I mean I'd like to put about 6-7k a year on a car I can drive balls to the wall constantly. I live in ky. I'd hate to have something that my dad would bitch about. He's old and believes we should all drive first gen mustangs (or sn95's for some god awful reason) for all our performance needs. Can an Elise handle 100k miles or do they wear out quickly? I can service the car my self, on a constant basis, if thats what it needs. There is some issue with the suspension coming apart but apparently someone with a few hours and handy with a torque wrench can solve it.
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Dec 27, 2012 08:11
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Sarcophallus posted:What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, handling, and aesthetics. It doesn't need to be super sporty, but less-boring cars are preferred. The only vehicle I would nix from your list is the VW. It is just inferior to the Mazda3 in every aspect. Personally, I would get the Mazda3, but the Fit is a solid choice too. The 3 is the fun-to-drive one of the two, while the Fit is the more economical option. I personally hate driving cars with so little horsepower.
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Dec 27, 2012 08:22
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oRenj9 posted:The only vehicle I would nix from your list is the VW. It is just inferior to the Mazda3 in every aspect. Personally, I would get the Mazda3, but the Fit is a solid choice too. The 3 is the fun-to-drive one of the two, while the Fit is the more economical option. I personally hate driving cars with so little horsepower. The Mazda3 is probably going to be a bit on the expensive side for me - there just aren't many used nearby [that I've found], and most are sedans. I'll certainly keep an eye out for them, though. There is a used 2009 Honda Fit Sport nearby with 53000 miles for $12,900. That particular model had a recall out in 2011 ['A FAILURE OF THE SPRING ASSEMBLIES MAY CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO STALL DURING OPERATION INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.'], but I'm not sure if this car has had the issue fixed. Kelley Blue Book puts that model around $12,750, and I figure I could've haggled at least that low to begin with. The Fiesta is beefier, fancier and better looking though, and that would be for a new 2013 model. It'd be more on the expensive side at around $15,000, but I'm not sure if the difference between it and the Fit is worth 3000 or not. The warranties for purchasing new [and likely APR savings I could get] do appeal to me, though. Will heed your recommendation with regard to the Golf, especially given the price point.
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Dec 27, 2012 08:50
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If the car still has an open campaign, you can take it to the dealer and get it fixed for free.
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Dec 27, 2012 14:49
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So my $500 car needs a $500 repair, thus, I'm on the market. Proposed Budget: Still working out what I can afford here. Thinking 60 month, trying to keep my payment manageable. I currently have 300-400 blocked out for a payment. Estimate my credit score between 740-800, so that should put me at a pretty good interest rate, and let me afford something between 15k-20k. New or Used: Either - been driving beaters so long that i don't know the difference Body Style: Something sporty, 4d slightly preferred How will you be using the car?: Daily use, occasional long trip. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Doesn't hurt. Bluetooth audio would be rad but not a deal breaker in the least. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, handling, and aesthetics. It doesn't need to be super sporty, but less-boring cars are preferred. Update: Here is a list of things I have been eyeing, that I think are cool. Years are flexible. 2010 Mazda 3 (Cheaper than I anticipated, and people seem to rave about them) 2010 Mazda RX-8 (The styling on these makes me rock hard, but I don't know much about them) 2010 Subaru Impreza WRX (Pricy, but awesome) Nissan Sentra (Currently have a 94. Test drove a newer one, 09 i think. Liked it, but it's boring.) Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 15:43
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Proposed Budget: $25,000 or less (no financing) New or Used: Likely new Body Style: Small / Crossover SUV How will you be using the car?: Mostly daily driver (60 mile round trip commute to work), rarely may be called upon to tow smallish things. What aspects are most important to you? MPG, reliability I currently drive a 2000 Chevrolet Tracker which my family has owned from new (my mom bought it, then I bought it from them about 5 years ago). It's just rolling over to 100K miles, and I've been pretty happy with it (it's been very reliable for me), but I think I'm ready and have the savings for a new car. My biggest issues with my current are that it's not really designed as a highway / interstate car which is 95% of all of my driving - it has a hard time getting up to speed and maintaining speed, especially if it's windy - and that it has just a single CD player which works but is not my ideal. However, I like that it's high off the ground (I live in the Midwest so it keeps the underside from getting so rusty with the snow plus I have a steep driveway that would scrape the hell out of a car) and that it has a lot of carrying capacity for its small size so I've been looking for something similar. Basically anything I find built in the last few years is going to have some kind of mp3 or Bluetooth capability, I believe, so even though that's important to me I'm not as worried about that. So far I've been looking mostly at a Ford Escape or a Mazda CX-5, with some thought to a Honda CRV, but given how little I know about cars I thought it might be good to get some goon recommendations. My dad is a great mechanic and can help me understand and deal with a lot of things, but he's not incredibly familiar with specific car models. I'm not opposed to a used car if I found one I was comfortable with, but given my lack of car acumen (even with my dad's help in shopping) and the fact that I plan to drive it for 8-10 years, the depreciation hit isn't as important to me as the warranty / knowing the history aspect. Thanks for any input / advice / help! I've already seen in the last couple of pages that Escapes might not be the most reliable. A couple of my family members have Edges that they really like, but that's slightly out of my price range and maybe Escapes are a lot crappier.
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Dec 27, 2012 17:14
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If you don't need financing, you might still think really hard about a used car—especially since your dad is a mechanic. While the depreciation might not matter that much to you, wouldn't you rather have that cash still in your savings instead of in a car? You can still get a very nice used car that'll last a long time used. You could even just start by looking for Mazda CX-5's or the Edge that your other family members have used to see what they're going for. Nothing wrong with getting a new car if that's the way you want to go, but if you're happy with the old tracker you'll probably be able to find something you'll be even happier with and save a lot of money going used. Especially with your dad's help. Just check around at Edmunds or wherever when you see something you like to make sure it has a decent reliability report.Deviant posted:Update: Here is a list of things I have been eyeing, that I think are cool. Years are flexible. You could look for the sportier Sentra SE-R Vspec or whatever if you like those, it should at least drive more interesting. Nothing wrong with any of your options, really, but the 3 is going to be the most economical of them. If you were willing to go a bit older you could get a G35 coupe in your price range and I think they're great. RX-8's are great cars too, just read up on them a bit as the rotary is a little different to take care of. Nothing at all crazy, you just need to be a little more proactive.
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Dec 27, 2012 17:44
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Well, poo poo, I guess we're talking about financing.
Bank fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Dec 28, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 18:35
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Deviant posted:So my $500 car needs a $500 repair, thus, I'm on the market. On the finance aspect, focusing on payment is only viable if you are walking in with a pre-approved interest rate in hand and know the exact term you want to sign up for. Negotiating with dealers on payments is roughly equivalent to begging them to fist you with no lube. Even if you have your rate pre-approved, negotiate on purchase price only (I always go with 'out the door' numbers so that any variances in dealer doc fees are mitigated when comparing dealer A with dealer B). On the two cars above: I have an '07 Mazdaspeed3 and love it, despite the fact that it hasn't exactly been the world's most reliable car. Most of the reliability issues I've had are directly related to the turbocharged MS3-specific engine, anyway; the regular Mazda3 seems to be decently reliable. However, I would stay away from the RX-8 solely from the aspect of "you don't know much about them". It's a good car but it's a rotary engine. That comes with many benefits (like a funny exhaust note, very good power for the weight / size of the engine, and a ridiculously high redline) but some considerable downsides since rotaries have some unusual care and feeding compared to piston engines. They consume oil by design - anyone who ever says their RXwhatever doesn't burn any oil is lying, stupid, or both. They actually do better with regular oil instead of synthetic because of this. They need to be flogged regularly. Avoid automatic RX-8s at all costs. An RX-8 that has only ever been driven like a grandma, especially if it's an automatic, will likely need a rebuild (if it hasn't had one already). On top of this, the fuel economy is pretty poor for a car of that size with that power level; it gets 3MPG worse than my larger, heavier, and more powerful Mazdaspeed3. They are good cars, but the rotary engine is something best suited to those who know and love the rotary engine. If you decide to jump into it with both feet, you may in fact love it in spite of / because of its foibles. If you want something like the RX-8 but without the rotary, there's always the Miata 
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Dec 27, 2012 18:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:On the finance aspect, focusing on payment is only viable if you are walking in with a pre-approved interest rate in hand and know the exact term you want to sign up for. Negotiating with dealers on payments is roughly equivalent to begging them to fist you with no lube. Even if you have your rate pre-approved, negotiate on purchase price only (I always go with 'out the door' numbers so that any variances in dealer doc fees are mitigated when comparing dealer A with dealer B). Yeah, I'm definitely not going to approach them with the payment number first, that's simply a conversation for this discussion arena. The list was more of a guideline of things I like, I'm not averse to suggestions outside it. Given that I've always driven beaters, I'm not up on new features like 'airbags' and 'anti-lock brakes' that the kids are going on about. The RX8 I was eh on, I do like the look, but I wasn't married to it by any means. I've had Miata's suggested to me, but my understanding was that they were pretty bad in crashes. I am heavily leaning towards a 2010 Mazda 3, local dealer has a few in the 15k range, with some haggling, I could probably do quite well. Here's an example: http://www.classicmazda.com/used/Mazda/2010-Mazda-Mazda3-Orlando-FL-492d72c30a0a00de009f8ac15c5792ed.htm
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Dec 27, 2012 19:06
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powderific posted:If you don't need financing, you might still think really hard about a used car—especially since your dad is a mechanic. While the depreciation might not matter that much to you, wouldn't you rather have that cash still in your savings instead of in a car? You can still get a very nice used car that'll last a long time used. You could even just start by looking for Mazda CX-5's or the Edge that your other family members have used to see what they're going for. Nothing wrong with getting a new car if that's the way you want to go, but if you're happy with the old tracker you'll probably be able to find something you'll be even happier with and save a lot of money going used. Especially with your dad's help. Just check around at Edmunds or wherever when you see something you like to make sure it has a decent reliability report. Thank you for taking the time to reply and for the advice! I'm not looking to actually buy until March or so, just starting to think about the process, so I'll definitely spend some time looking around for used versions of what I ultimately decide I'm looking for. In the end I'm sure it's going to depend on what is out there and what the price is vs. a new one.
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Dec 27, 2012 21:06
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I wouldn't go 60 months on a used car UNLESS there were no early repayment penalties and I was getting a significantly better rate than a 36/48mo loan.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:01
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I wouldn't go 60 months on a used car UNLESS there were no early repayment penalties and I was getting a significantly better rate than a 36/48mo loan. I'm going to look into doing a 36/48. What sort of interest rates should I be asking for, nay, demanding, with a 740-800 credit score?
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Dec 27, 2012 22:14
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Credit unions usually publish their rates. If you pick a couple near you it's pretty easy to get everything approved through them before going to a dealership. Mine is around 2-3% with a similar score.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:21
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Penfed is advertising 1.49% on used cars and anyone can join for a $15 donation, it looks like.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:22
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powderific posted:Credit unions usually publish their rates. If you pick a couple near you it's pretty easy to get everything approved through them before going to a dealership. Mine is around 2-3% with a similar score. Now how exactly does this work, because don't they typically want to know what you're buying before they agree to finance you? Seems kind of chicken-and-egg at first glance.
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Dec 27, 2012 22:28
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I only had to tell my credit union in general terms what I was planning on buying and how much I wanted to be pre-approved for. I ended up buying what I generally told them so their estimated APR was the exact same as what the final APR was when I went back to get the loan finalized after finding the specific car I was going to buy. For a new car it shouldn't really vary much in the first place, and for used cars they usually have different buckets of estimated rates based on age, miles, and brand/segment. They're usually pretty broad categories. Really not a lot to worry about unless you get an estimate APR based on telling them that you're going to buy a 3 year old Lexus with less than 40k miles but then go buy a 10 year old Chevy with 150k miles. Guinness fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 22:45
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Guinness posted:I only had to tell my credit union in general terms what I was planning on buying and how much I wanted to be pre-approved for. I ended up buying what I generally told them so their estimated APR was the exact same as what the final APR was when I went back to get the loan finalized after finding the specific car I was going to buy. Ok, that works, I have an idea what I'm going to get. I really do like the look of the Mazda 3.
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Dec 27, 2012 23:44
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Deviant posted:Now how exactly does this work, because don't they typically want to know what you're buying before they agree to finance you? Seems kind of chicken-and-egg at first glance. "I'm looking for a used-car note, X term, about 17-20k principal. What kind of rate would you give me?" If they can't tell you what rate they'll offer, approximately, how do they entice you to use their financing not another lending institution's?
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Dec 27, 2012 23:44
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