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Centzon Totochtin posted:So maybe I'm a complete idiot... but this modem should be compatible with this router, correct? I have to get that router because Time Warner is a little bitch, but I'm just looking for a nice reliable router that'll work with it. Modems generally shouldn't give a gently caress what's plugged into them.
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Jan 5, 2013 04:05
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So I had been posting in here awhile ago about my new WNR3500L in my bedroom and the weird fluctuating wifi speeds. Maybe click the ? under my name to see my posting history in this thread? I got busy before the holidays so I gave up on messing with this, but now I'm back and want to figure it out. The last recommendations were to mess with the DTIM Interval and RTM Threshold and I was doing that, but I'm not sure how far to go when changing them. I was up to DTIM = 50 from 1 and down to RTM = 2000 from 2347. From the posts here, I couldn't tell if there's any hope for this to work. Is there just too much interference? The main page in Tomato says Interference Level: Severe. Changing the channels hasn't seemed to do much. It's really annoying trying to use my tablet or phone when the speeds are so sporadic. I don't remember how much I tested this last time, but the speeds coming in on the other wireless router in our living room (other end of apartment) seem to stay steady. They are still about half our wired speeds at 11Mbps, but at least they're above 1.0Mbps. The Wifi Analyzer app even shows that there are more networks coming in stronger around the old WRT54GS. When do I think about this router just having a faulty Wifi antenna?
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Jan 5, 2013 08:37
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Going to go get an AirPort Extreme tomorrow to " go with" my (this gen.) Airport Express. Gonna make the extreme my wireless router and keep the express to boost signal/expand coverage. This can be do e moderately easy, right?
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Jan 5, 2013 09:28
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Feenix posted:Going to go get an AirPort Extreme tomorrow to " go with" my (this gen.) Airport Express. Yeah, if they're both configured with the same wifi settings except for different channels, one will just extend the network and your devices should hop between them seamlessly. Just make sure to turn off DHCP and routing on whichever one is just going to be a wireless access point and not a router (probably the express).
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Jan 5, 2013 13:34
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Looking to upgrade my network, here is my situation. Problems: I live in a 2 Story Townhouse, and cannot get good signal in the upper floor. Consistently get speeds of 2 mbps or less down. Today I ran a speed test and got 2.84 mbps down, .74 mbps up CenturyLink Internet - 7mbps down, 986kbps up. Speedtest gives me nowhere close to this which, while expected to an extent, I want to try to get closer to advertised. Before I call CenturyLink to complain/upgrade service plans I want to eliminate all possible issues. FWIW I'm in contract with them for one more year. Here is my planned upgrade path: Separate my router from my modem by buying a Asus RT-n66u. This should help with range and hopefully take stress off of the modem. I'm currently leasing a modem at $5/month, so I want to buy a basic modem (under $60, new/used, and better than the current Zyxel q1000zI'm leasing). Here's where I need some help. I can't find any reliable info on most of the supported modems or what to look for. Any experience with these or what to look for/compare? Here's the list from CenturyLink: ActionTec: PK5000, M1000, 1520, 1524, ga701, gt701wg Zyxel: PK5000Z 2Wire: 2700hg, 2701hg Motorola: 3347 savesthedayrocks fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jan 6, 2013 |
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Jan 5, 2013 20:04
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So after around 14 months, the 2.4ghz band on my 3700v2 finally died.  Fortunately, the 5ghz band still works fine, and I have a backup 3Com AP for 2.4ghz stuff, so I don't have to rush out and buy a new one just yet. Thinking that it might be better to look into a mikrotik setup instead, given that I just need a reliable AP to attach to my smoothwall box. Just posting to confirm that yes, it appears that 2.4ghz band reliability over time may actually be a thing with that particular model.
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Jan 6, 2013 02:13
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Trying to set up QOS on my router to prioritize Dota 2 over people dl'ing or streaming. I set the UDP range to the specific dota port (27015), and set priority to highest. I have no other QOS entries, will this singular dota2 entry be sufficient to prioritize Dota or will I have to go configure all the other traffic users like torrent etc. to low? I have no idea what I am doing.
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Jan 6, 2013 03:26
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Progression Please posted:Trying to set up QOS on my router to prioritize Dota 2 over people dl'ing or streaming. I set the UDP range to the specific dota port (27015), and set priority to highest. I have no other QOS entries, will this singular dota2 entry be sufficient to prioritize Dota or will I have to go configure all the other traffic users like torrent etc. to low? I have no idea what I am doing.
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Jan 6, 2013 07:14
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I have: Windows firewall turned off (temporarily) ESET NOD32 turned off (temporarily) UPnP Device Host service started SSDP Discovery service started What am I missing here? Edit: Duh, no sooner posted, I realise I hadn't set XBMC to share them 
HauntedRobot fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Jan 7, 2013 |
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Jan 7, 2013 10:59
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My fancy APC surge protector has a couple of ethernet passthrough ports on it. Should I actually be using that? I'd rather not add things to the chain that might slow my wired connections down.
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Jan 9, 2013 19:37
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Minidust posted:My fancy APC surge protector has a couple of ethernet passthrough ports on it. Should I actually be using that? I'd rather not add things to the chain that might slow my wired connections down. I usually only hook up surge protection for phone lines (I had to replace a lot of modems back when I was on dial-up thanks to lightning). I figure if my wiring is all indoors and all of the switches and computers are surge protected, there's not going to be a need to surge protect my network unless Zeus is visiting.
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Jan 9, 2013 19:45
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Rexxed posted:I usually only hook up surge protection for phone lines (I had to replace a lot of modems back when I was on dial-up thanks to lightning). I figure if my wiring is all indoors and all of the switches and computers are surge protected, there's not going to be a need to surge protect my network unless Zeus is visiting. Big thing is to examine the ingress points of your house and go from there. My dad lost an HDMI port on his Soundbar from a surge that came in over cable and fried the STB. So, I would be SLIGHTLY worried about current jumping from a cable/dsl modem and screwing up the next upstream component on the network. But that doesn't mean you need to protect the ethernet itself, just the cable coming into the house.
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Jan 9, 2013 20:28
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Rexxed posted:I usually only hook up surge protection for phone lines (I had to replace a lot of modems back when I was on dial-up thanks to lightning). I figure if my wiring is all indoors and all of the switches and computers are surge protected, there's not going to be a need to surge protect my network unless Zeus is visiting. bull3964 posted:Big thing is to examine the ingress points of your house and go from there.  v
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Jan 9, 2013 20:31
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So I'm about to head over to my company's CEO's huge house to try and figure out a solution for improving the wireless out there. The house has very thick concrete walls and is absolutely massive. I doubt money is of any concern to him - he just wants it working better. I think he's just basically got a crappy consumer grade wireless router shoved in a closet (literally) somewhere. A) Would a good router + range extender(s) get through concrete? If not, would using powerline ethernet adapters to provide connectivity to range extenders in difficult to reach areas be a half way decent solution? B) What combination of hardware do you guys recommend for this application? To do this right I assume I would want to bring in an electrician and get cat6 to the difficult to reach areas. Thanks in advance. goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jan 10, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 22:45
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If you're running cat6 already I'd consider Ubiquiti unifi gear via PoE. Unifi stuff is rather inexpensive and so are the ToughSwitches to drive them (if a PoE supported switch isn't in place already). Ubuquiti is commercial grade at consumer cost. I dislike powerline ethernet.
mcsuede fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jan 9, 2013 |
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Jan 9, 2013 23:18
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mcsuede posted:If you're running cat6 already I'd consider Ubiquiti unifi gear via PoE. Unifi stuff is rather inexpensive and so are the ToughSwitches to drive them (if a PoE supported switch isn't in place already). Ubuquiti is commercial grade at consumer cost. I dislike powerline ethernet. Seconded. Ubiquiti Unifi will allow him to seamlessly roam from one access point to another. Range extenders are almost always a bad idea. They're flaky and cut the bandwidth in half. A CEO can afford to have cat6 running to each access point.
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Jan 10, 2013 01:05
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There are so many recommended options in the OP  I've got an old D-Link DGL-4100, and it's been mostly pretty decent except that sometimes devices like my Playstation 3, Vita, and iPad lose connection when I restart them, and they cannot re-establish a connection to the router until the router gets a hard reset/power cycle. Meanwhile my Desktop and Laptop maintain a perfectly fine connection to them even if they reset. This does not always happen, but it happens occasionally. Another separate problem I get sometimes, is that some days the signal gets finicky. The signal strength is fine, but I'll start losing packets for a couple seconds at random intervals through the day, and sometimes not random intervals (like every 30 minutes). This isn't a big deal when surfing web pages, as each interval is usually separated by at least an hour hopefully, but is quite problematic when playing games. Then most other days the connection is completely fine. A power cycle may or may not solve the issue sometimes. I'm sort of tired of these problems and I would hope that a new router would solve my woes if not at least make them even rarer. Plus having WRT or Tomato so I can be on the same page as everyone would be nice for troubleshooting. So are all the recommended options in the OP still valid? Some of those links seem to be dead. I remember the WRT54GL was like 50 or 60 bucks, but now the OP is saying that ideally I'd spend over $100?
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Jan 10, 2013 01:19
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I was playing an online game, and the little internet speed statistics in the lower left corner of the screen showed that I had packet loss of up to 75% (which went down to 50%, then to zero, than it jumped up and down). What exactly is packet loss, and how can I fix it?
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Jan 11, 2013 02:58
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Farecoal posted:I was playing an online game, and the little internet speed statistics in the lower left corner of the screen showed that I had packet loss of up to 75% (which went down to 50%, then to zero, than it jumped up and down). What exactly is packet loss, and how can I fix it? It means that there's data not getting from you to their server and/or vice-versa. It's pretty much the most debilitating internet problem since it will gently caress up everything, although the 50-75% number is very high and may not be entirely correct. To fix it you generally need to determine where the packet loss is starting (which can be somewhat difficult). In general I haven't found a new/better version of the old UOTrace utility around anywhere, though I'm sure there is one that hopefully someone can recommend. What it would do is run a traceroute to the Ultima Online servers, then it could ping the routers on the route to see where the packet loss started. If someone can suggest a decent utility for this it should let you see where you're losing packets. If it starts happening in the first couple of hops, it'll be your internet provider having issues. Somewhere in the middle will usually be some routers on a backbone somewhere, and towards the end usually means it's an issue with the game server or their provider. Once you know where the packet loss starts you know who to email about it (or what to fix if it's happening on your own equipment). Sorry I don't have more detailed advice but fortunately I haven't had too much packet loss in the last few years.
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Jan 11, 2013 03:21
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I like MTR for finding latency or packet loss. (Sounds like the UOTrace tool Rexxed mentioned is similar, though MTR is still developed and perhaps more generally useful.) The Windows equivalent is WinMTR. You can enter an IP address, let it run traceroutes for a while, and it'll collect latency and packet loss stats for each hop. Honestly, if it only happened once, it's going to be hard to track down the cause. But the good news is you don't need to, because it only happened once.
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Jan 11, 2013 03:38
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Movac posted:I like MTR for finding latency or packet loss. (Sounds like the UOTrace tool Rexxed mentioned is similar, though MTR is still developed and perhaps more generally useful.) The Windows equivalent is WinMTR. You can enter an IP address, let it run traceroutes for a while, and it'll collect latency and packet loss stats for each hop. It happens in other matches of the same game (though usually its never more than 7%), and I've seen it when using Pingtest.
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Jan 11, 2013 04:28
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So after skimming the OP, I think I've settled on the router I need/want, but just need some feedback to make sure I'm making a reasonable/the right decision. Currently I have WRT600N, purchased back in March of 2008, back when this was a Draft N router, paid $250 for it. Can't believe I've had this router this long. The reason I'm needing to upgrade my router is that the WRT600N doesn't support my 3TB HDD, My current needs: 4+ Gigabit LAN ports Simultaneous 2.4GHz & 5GHz (most devices I have support 5GHz, though still have a few that don't) USB Port (must support 3TB HDD) Time Machine backups over network (don't care if it's HFS, ext3, ext4. I know gently caress all about the benefits of different file systems, I know that ext3/4 are journaled [better for data recovery or something] and HFS is what Mac's use.) Wants: Bandwidth usage graph (history by month, broken down by day. Similar to DD-WRT functionality) VPN support (need to get around to setting up a VPN for home access on the go) Network printer support (don't care if it's wired, though would prefer wireless) Would like to also be able to also use the 3 TB drive as a NAS for additional file storage in addition to the TM backups. I don't necessarily care about 3rd party support (DD-WRT, Tomato, etc) but if it offers some improved functionality that the stock firmware doesn't, I'm totally fine with flashing whatever I need to. I guess with my needs/wants this pretty much narrows it down to the ASUS RT-N66U and I don't feel that this is entirely overkill for what I'm looking for. If there is a cheaper router of similar quality I'm not opposed to that either.
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Jan 11, 2013 04:30
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I've seen people mention powerline networking on here a bit, but not in a ton of detail. I wanted to get some more input. Essentially, I need to extend the internet access in our house from one corner (where the modem is, and don't tell me I should move it; I know I should, but it's not up to me), to the other (where two bedrooms are). The modem is about 65 ft away from the rooms in question, and wireless doesn't reach. It seems like powerline is the easiest solution; the wiring in one corner is from about 1950 and 1985 in the other, and they are on separate sub-panels. Is that a problem? Additionally, does anyone have suggestions on what sort of equipment to pick up? E: and running cord between the two is not viable, either.
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Jan 11, 2013 07:23
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So, I went out and bought a Netgear WNDR3700 and I think it's a brick. While I followed the 1-5 step stuff (turn off modem, turn on modem, connect to router etc) I noticed when the router powered up that the lights would flash on, the power light and internet light would change from amber to green for a few seconds, then all the lights would blink and it would go back to the power button and the internet button as amber with nothing else on. I've spent a good amount of time this evening trying to figure out what is wrong with it. I've swapped out ethernet cords, changed power outlets, reset to factory settings, even tried to connect with multiple computers, but it never stops doing the stupid cycle of lights. It seems like (I know absolutely nothing about wireless) that it's trying to finish startup and keeps resetting back to the initial power up state. Anyone got ideas or do I need to take this back?
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Jan 11, 2013 07:35
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Can somebody recommend some resources to get into basic VLAN in general and on DD-WRT? There’s some stuff in the wiki but none of the samples fit my use case, so I’ll have to learn it myself. I’ve got two WNDR3700s running DD-WRT, one as the Router+AP with DHCP/DNS and one as a simple AP with DHCP-forwarding for wireless range extension.  Black lines are CAT6. Right now I’m running everything as one network with one SSID, but I’d like to split the network into two (red and green) LANs because I don’t trust Client 2 and Phone 2 anymore. Both Client 1 and Client 2 need to be able to access their respective network and the Internet via WLAN at both locations, which makes it pretty hard for me because I have no idea how VLANs really work. //edit: can I even use two VLANs over one ethernet port (the one connecting the two WNDR3700s)? //edit2: Made it work via bridging VAPs on each router with a tagged VLAN. Took me a while, but it works perfectly fine! eames fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jan 11, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 12:32
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My parents have a big, reasonably new (14 years or so) 3 story house which is an absolute bitch to get WiFi around (mostly the walls hate wifi, and the kitchen which takes up a good portion of the center of the middle floor absolutely eats them). For years they've had my old WRT54g v4 running tomato at the cable modem, which is as far away from their office as possible, down a flight of stairs at the wrong end of the house. The cabe modem, you see, has to be next to the cable box, because the coax sucks (there's literally like 10000 feet of coax between outlet and street) so they both have to share a signal booster; A few years ago I solved this by grabbing a lovely later-model WRT54g v8 or something, which can run a micro build of dd-wrt and does WDS just fine. I set up WDS and aside from a hiccup now and then, it's been working great for years... until they got ipads for christmas. Ipads get lovely wifi reception compared to everything else, I've discovered and they do not get reception in the office at all. So the question is, what are the quick/easy solutions> - I discussed powerline kits with my dad, but having read here about the losses due to long power lines I advised him not to do it unless he can borrow a set first. It's am easy question to answer if you already bought the drat thing. but if the power is probably going through 10km of convoluted wires in the walls - I tried those cutout tinfoil parabolic reflectors and they did less than nothing : : - Is this something I could maybe address with a bigger antenna or something? - Are any newer standards than b/g that would likely be able to punch through those walls? This would require several upgrades on the end-user side to support the new protocol iin accition to the new routers. Is there any reason not to just get a second dedicated WDS and daisy chain it to the end of the house? My parents play no games, probably don't undersatnd the meeaning of latency poverty goat fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jan 12, 2013 |
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Jan 11, 2013 17:18
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BeefSupreme posted:the wiring in one corner is from about 1950 and 1985 in the other, and they are on separate sub-panels. Is that a problem?
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Jan 11, 2013 22:32
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CuddleChunks posted:Run ethernet or die trying. Powerline networking is not for you. drat. Doesn't matter that they're on the same main? And if the best solution is to run ethernet, am I going cat6 as I've seen some people mention on here?
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Jan 12, 2013 00:18
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savesthedayrocks posted:Looking to upgrade my network, here is my situation. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825109010 http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-GT701D-Ethernet-Routing-Capabilities/dp/B001IYCUM8 then bridge them and have that router handle the PPPoE login. I deal with a lot of CenturyLink clients; this is the best way.
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Jan 12, 2013 06:46
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BeefSupreme posted:drat. Doesn't matter that they're on the same main? And if the best solution is to run ethernet, am I going cat6 as I've seen some people mention on here? Is there coax in the house, and if so, do you have cable (not satellite) service? Could look at MoCa instead, if you really can't run CAT6.
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Jan 12, 2013 06:59
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Maneki Neko posted:Is there coax in the house, and if so, do you have cable (not satellite) service? Could look at MoCa instead, if you really can't run CAT6. Cat6 is a last resort, and would be highly, highly work intensive. We'd probably have to go through slab to make it happen. MoCa sounds like a possibility; we do have coaxial, and we have cable service. My question: can that support splitting the signal? As in, could I run a cable box and the MoCa adapter off of one coax line?
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Jan 12, 2013 08:58
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Tapedump posted:Ditch the lease and buy either of these ~24Mbps modems: Perfect. Before you posted this, I ended up getting an Actiontec M1000 from ebay. Looks like similar specs (and I got it for $15). Ordered the giftcards for my router, so I should be setting up shop in about a week. Thanks for the help, I may bug you again once I try to get everything set up.
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Jan 12, 2013 18:14
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BeefSupreme posted:could I run a cable box and the MoCa adapter off of one coax line? Yes. The idea behind moca is to let you run your network and cable TV over the same coax. This won't work with satellite though, because of the way the cables are ran and the higher frequencies in use.
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Jan 12, 2013 18:35
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I'm setting up my first network. The OP and some links and articles have told me what I'll need in general terms, but I could use some help with specifics. I want to connect:
I know I need a router and some cables. My cable setup is going to be simple, because everything is going to be in one 20-foot line in a single room: Desktop > couch where the laptop could be > XBox > bed where the laptop could be. Not 'one cable' simple, but I won't be needing to drill holes or run conduit. First off, should I even be considering this setup now, or should I wait until I actually have the laptop and modem in hand? Otherwise: Do I need anything else? One of the articles left me with the feeling like I might need an extra NIC or some sort of adapter for the XBox. Do I really need something with Wi-Fi capability? I only have a DS and no real plans to get more Wi-Fi things. Is there going to be any drawback to just having a loose CAT5 cable stuffed in the couch cushions, so I can transfer the laptop between the bed and the couch without navigating a cable through the potted plants every time? And finally, is this going to be easy enough that I won't be in danger of setting things on fire when I plug them in?
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Jan 12, 2013 20:42
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Why not use wifi for the laptops as well?
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Jan 12, 2013 20:55
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Dareon posted:I'm setting up my first network. The OP and some links and articles have told me what I'll need in general terms, but I could use some help with specifics. It sounds like a very simple set up and should be very straight forward. If you want to wait and see if the modem comes with a router built in, it might. I had a client's new DSL2 modem include a little router inside it recently, but even if it does you'd then need a switch, and if you're doing that it might be worthwhile just to get your own router anyway so you have better control over it. Nothing should catch on fire, ethernet cables don't run much power and shouldn't have issues lying around disconnected (well don't get the end wet). Most modern routers have wifi so it doesn't hurt to get it with the router just to avoid having to buy a wireless access point or another router later. I didn't have it set up until I got a smartphone so I could use it without data plan use at home. The main thing to check is that the router you buy has enough ethernet lan ports for everything you're plugging into it. Some only have one LAN port that you need to hook to a switch, but most home routers will have 4-8 ports to plug your devices into.
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Jan 12, 2013 21:53
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So I'm thinking of getting a new router as our devices on the old netgear WNR1000 we have running now will lose connection to the wireless and won't get it back until the router is power cycled. One of my new computers in particular (asus ux31a with Centrino 6235 adapter) does not like it. I was looking at the netgear 3700 since it has some things I like (dual band, gigabit ethernet) but most of all I'm looking for stability. Is there a model in particular that I should be looking for reliability? I know the 3700 doesn't support DD-WRT but I'm unlikely to need or want any of the more advanced features that brings anyways.
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Jan 14, 2013 03:59
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So I've been trying to improve Wi-Fi quality in our 3 1/2 story house. Currently, we have a single Linksys WRT160N running tomato v. 1.28 on it, and reception is absolutely horrid. In everywhere except the office where the router+modem is located, everyone is getting about 2 bars or less (RSSI of -50-70?). I tried a repeater in the basement level (D-LINK DIR-505), and it seems to be causing havoc for everyone that isn't me. My cousin's MBP, iPad Mini, and iPhone as well as my mom's iPad 2 and my dad's Phillips GoGear thing will all randomly drop connections and refuse to connect, being assigned an IP that isn't within the router's range. I tried a PowerLine setup (the house is maybe 8 or so years old) but I routinely get disconnected and I only get about 50mbps down within our LAN. Today, while clearing out a crawlspace, I found this thing, which I can only assume is some sort of networking dealio:  But I've got no idea how to make heads or tails of this thing nor do I know what I could do with it. The Motorola thing is labelled "Broadband Drop Amp", the black bar on the top right says "CAT5e Patch Panel", the silver dongle beside the Motorola thing is called a "2 Way Splitter/Combiner", and the mess of wires in the middle is what I assume to be ethernet cables connected to thingies labelled with various rooms. Did whoever come to set up our Internet goof and not use this horrendously complicated contraption when they were supposed to? Can I use this to help alleviate our Wi-Fi problem?
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Jan 14, 2013 06:48
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If you find out where those wires from the patch panel go, you can move the modem/router to that box, then wire up access points around the house. Depending on how many wall jacks you need to use, you may need a switch too.
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Jan 14, 2013 07:00
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Inspector_71 posted:If you find out where those wires from the patch panel go, you can move the modem/router to that box, then wire up access points around the house. Depending on how many wall jacks you need to use, you may need a switch too. Hmm, the labels on the patch panel more less matches the labels on the middle cable bunble, and both go right into the wall, so I'm not really sure where it's going? Is there a good way to tell? Assuming that it is a networking thing and it works as intended, where would I put the modem? Just grab one of the free coax cables in the box and plug that in?
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Jan 14, 2013 07:22
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