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wargamerROB posted:This is only my second batch, so apologies if this is totally normal for beer. I brewed the white house honey ale yesterday and 8 hours after I pitched the yeast it was already fermenting pretty actively. This morning there the glass I'm using for a blow off assembly was almost full to the brim; a bunch of liquid had been forced out of the carboy by the escaping guess I gas. My first beer only ever had gas come out of the tube. Is it normal for some liquid to get pushed out during the start of fermentation? 
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Jan 7, 2013 08:55
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wargamerROB posted:This is only my second batch, so apologies if this is totally normal for beer. I brewed the white house honey ale yesterday and 8 hours after I pitched the yeast it was already fermenting pretty actively. This morning there the glass I'm using for a blow off assembly was almost full to the brim; a bunch of liquid had been forced out of the carboy by the escaping guess I gas. My first beer only ever had gas come out of the tube. Is it normal for some liquid to get pushed out during the start of fermentation? Yeah, it's normal if you've got a vigorous ferment and/or not huge amounts of headspace in the fermenter.
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Jan 7, 2013 09:06
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digitalhifi posted:It's me. Glad you enjoyed them. Many thanks, and keep up the great work.
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Jan 7, 2013 13:34
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Am I correct to assume that if I use my fridge as a temperature control for fermentation that by keeping the temperatures on the low end and slowly raising to desired temperatures that it will avoid any potential of a super vigorous fermentation? Also, I recently had a Belgian beer by a brewery called River Horse. It was a total banana bomb. Is there any other way for the beer to become a banana liquor flavored beer without fermenting at too high of temperatures? I'm assuming it was the yeast fermenting too high causing the esters which made this taste like banana.
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Jan 7, 2013 15:22
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Pitch 2-4*F below your intended fermentation temp and it'll slowly ramp up and your fermentation will be great as long as all your other factors are right (yeast health, pitch rate, aeration, etc). Some yeasts throw a lot of banana, so they didn't necessarily ferment too high. Generally speaking though higher fermentation temps will give you more banana.
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Jan 7, 2013 16:01
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wargamerROB posted:This is only my second batch, so apologies if this is totally normal for beer. I brewed the white house honey ale yesterday and 8 hours after I pitched the yeast it was already fermenting pretty actively. This morning there the glass I'm using for a blow off assembly was almost full to the brim; a bunch of liquid had been forced out of the carboy by the escaping guess I gas. My first beer only ever had gas come out of the tube. Is it normal for some liquid to get pushed out during the start of fermentation? The batch I brewed on Jan. 2 had first-order and second-order blowoff; that is, it made a mess when it blew the airlock off the carboy, and then after I rigged a blowoff tube, it made a mess when it blew crap out of the half-gallon growler I was using as a catch jar. Blowoff is completely normal. I get it mostly on bigger beers, but it can happen anytime you have a vigorous ferment or limited headspace. Some yeasts (Wyeast 1007 German Ale) and some ingredients (wheat) seem to contribute to the phenomenon. There's a video somewhere of Bigfoot fermenting at Sierra Nevada - it shows kraeusen cresting the wall of the coolship and just pouring onto the floor in sheets.
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Jan 7, 2013 16:28
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n/m
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Jan 7, 2013 16:39
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Anyone ever use a heating pad as a ghetto way of heating up a bucket/carboy? Need to get my bucket up 6-8 degrees to finish up and am wondering if that would put out enough heat.
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Jan 7, 2013 16:43
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Sirotan posted:Anyone ever use a heating pad as a ghetto way of heating up a bucket/carboy? Need to get my bucket up 6-8 degrees to finish up and am wondering if that would put out enough heat. Yeah I've done this and it works fine.
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Jan 7, 2013 16:52
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Sirotan posted:Anyone ever use a heating pad as a ghetto way of heating up a bucket/carboy? Need to get my bucket up 6-8 degrees to finish up and am wondering if that would put out enough heat. I would be worried that it would scorch the bottom or possibly kill the yeast. I've seen lots of cheap carboy warmers though, they're designed to keep the carboys/buckets around 70*F. Something like this should work.
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Jan 7, 2013 16:59
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That basically is just a heating pad, with the added nicety that it surrounds the whole thing I guess. I just duct taped my heating pad to one side. I also gave myself a safety net by plugging it into the temp controller I normally use for my keezer. You just move one wire and then it will shut off power when the probe gets too hot instead of when it's not hot enough. That way I wouldn't forget to check on it one day and have it race off to 90 degrees.
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Jan 7, 2013 17:03
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If you get a cheap heating pad just make sure it doesn't have an auto-cutoff feature. I got a cheap one from walmart last year and it doesn't run for more than an hour or so before it cuts off.
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Jan 7, 2013 17:10
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Awesome, thanks guys. Knowing this will probably make me check my blowoffs and avoid a giant flooded mess at some point in the future.
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Jan 7, 2013 17:19
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I'm in the process of building a keezer. 
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Jan 7, 2013 17:22
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Midorka posted:Am I correct to assume that if I use my fridge as a temperature control for fermentation that by keeping the temperatures on the low end and slowly raising to desired temperatures that it will avoid any potential of a super vigorous fermentation? Some yeast/OGs will result in blowoff no matter what precautions you may take with temperature control and fermcap, but you're definitely right that good temp control will keep the yeast from really spinning out of control. Banana flavors to some extent are expected from most Belgian "abbey/trappist" yeast, it's a part of the character of those beers. However if a brewery is putting out a "banana bomb" of a beer they probably could stand to tweak their fermentation temps or even yeast choice to get a bit more balance/subtlety... not that there's anything categorically wrong with a beer that is intensely banana.
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Jan 7, 2013 17:48
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I guess my palate has become super sensitive to the banana or something. I am starting to absolutely hate banana in most beers because it comes off as artificial and cloying. Then again the River Horse beer in question tastes like banana Laffy Taffy's melted down with a touch of cloves and alcohol.
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Jan 7, 2013 18:55
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Rhizome sale now at MoreBeer! I picked up a Cascade, Centennial, and a Hallertaur to add to my 5 year old Brewer's Gold Rhizome. I am going to be cranking some hops out in the coming years!
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Jan 7, 2013 19:14
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ScaerCroe posted:Rhizome sale now at MoreBeer! I picked up a Cascade, Centennial, and a Hallertaur to add to my 5 year old Brewer's Gold Rhizome. I am going to be cranking some hops out in the coming years! Thanks, just snagged some Centennial, Hallertau, and Willamette. How many years does it take before I get hops worthy of brewing?
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Jan 7, 2013 19:20
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internet celebrity posted:Thanks, just snagged some Centennial, Hallertau, and Willamette. How many years does it take before I get hops worthy of brewing? I got a lovely pot-bound Cascade plant late in the season last year and grew it in a bucket and got at least an ounce or two of hops out of it. Do it right and I'm sure you'll get something this year. Washington doesn't allow importing rhizomes so I have to stick to state stores. Does anyone have recommendations for suppliers in Washington? e: HopsDirect is based in WA but has no rhizomes listed on their site yet. I used their contact form to ask about 2013 rhizomes. Cpt.Wacky fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jan 7, 2013 |
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Jan 7, 2013 19:45
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Midorka posted:I guess my palate has become super sensitive to the banana or something. I am starting to absolutely hate banana in most beers because it comes off as artificial and cloying. Then again the River Horse beer in question tastes like banana Laffy Taffy's melted down with a touch of cloves and alcohol.
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Jan 7, 2013 19:51
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internet celebrity posted:Thanks, just snagged some Centennial, Hallertau, and Willamette. How many years does it take before I get hops worthy of brewing? My Brewer's gold produced about an ounce its first year. On it's third year, it produced 2.5 pounds. Most commercial growers say they are fully mature at 2-3 years. If you fertilize and water them, they will produce more hops.
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Jan 7, 2013 20:00
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Has anyone had much luck growing them in buckets? I'll be moving in June and would like to be able at least start it in a bucket if I can.
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Jan 7, 2013 23:07
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Cointelprofessional posted:Has anyone had much luck growing them in buckets? I'll be moving in June and would like to be able at least start it in a bucket if I can. It can be done but you have to be on top of watering and fertilizing since containers dry out faster and there isn't as much soil to provide nutrients.
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Jan 8, 2013 00:13
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Going to brew an all grain stout this weekend, would appreciate suggestions. Thinking of going with this left hand milk stout clone: 7 lbs 2 row 1 lb roasted barley . 75 lbs caramel malt 60L .75 lbs chocolate malt . 75 lbs Munich malt . 75 lbs flaked barley . 5 lbs flaked oats . 35 oz Magnum 60 min 1.00 Kent goldings 10 min 1 lb lactose Safale s-05 Single infusion mash, 14.20 qts of water at 162 to get to 151 Thoughts? Opinions on better recipes i could be doing?
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Jan 8, 2013 00:43
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YASD posted:Going to brew an all grain stout this weekend, would appreciate suggestions. Thinking of going with this left hand milk stout clone: Your recipe reminded me of this which is a Yeti clone: http://www.byo.com/stories/article/indices/25-cloning/1486-tasting-double 15.25 lbs (6.9 kg) American 2-row malt 1.0 lb (0.45 kg) crystal malt (120 °L) 12 oz. (0.34 kg) chocolate malt 12 oz. (0.34 kg) black patent malt 10 oz. (0.28 kg) roasted barley 8.0 oz. (0.23 kg) flaked wheat 8.0 oz. (0.23 kg) flaked rye 14.3 AAU Chinook hops (60 min) (1.1 oz./31 g of 13% alpha acids) 7.2 AAU Chinook hops (30 min) (0.55 oz./16 g of 13% alpha acids) 5.3 AAU Centennial hops (15 min) (0.50 oz./14 g of 10.5% alpha acids) 0.5 oz. (14 g) Centennial hops (5 min) Wyeast 1056 I did a split batch and put half on coffee and the other half with oak. So far, the coffee portion tastes wonderful.
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Jan 8, 2013 02:18
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Anybody ever order (or pickup on site) hop plants from High Hops? Wondering what their prices are normally like and when they might start taking orders?
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Jan 8, 2013 02:53
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1. Mashing for the first time with a bazooka tube. Thanks for the pro-tip I'll never look back. 2. A while back I made a stupid argument that IPAs age well and I was basing that off of things like 120 and I was totally wrong re: hop flavor and presence and just wanted to officially apologize. 3. Need mead guidance. Too dry, killing the yeast with campden and adding more honey, but still want to bottle carbonated. What's the best way to do this?
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Jan 8, 2013 03:01
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fullroundaction posted:3. Need mead guidance. Too dry, killing the yeast with campden and adding more honey, but still want to bottle carbonated. What's the best way to do this? Keg, force carb, fill under counterpressure.
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Jan 8, 2013 03:04
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fullroundaction posted:
Or if you don't have a keg, edit: looks like wine conditioner has potassium sorbate so it might kill your yeast. internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 03:17
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Explain to me why invert sugar and priming would work if I already campden'd the yeast. (And no I don't have any kegging equipment  )
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Jan 8, 2013 04:20
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Sadly, it wouldn't, unless you pitched additional yeast, in which case the backsweetening you added would also become food. You could also ferment it out again, then add both some unfermentable backsweetening, such as sucralose, together with your regular priming sugar.
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Jan 8, 2013 04:40
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Hypnolobster posted:I just got done with disassembling, cleaning and starting to soak 8 corny kegs and now I'm much more determined to actually do some research on keg/carboy/line cleaners. I did one out of copper a while back using an amazon sump pump that has a spike, two corny outlets and a "utility" barb with a ball valve. I used a rubber reducer fitting from the plumbing department of the hardware store to put the kegs/carboys/buckets on. It works well for cornies and carboys and not horribly for buckets either if you put a cinder block on top so it doesn't blow the bucket off the cleaner. I did not have stellar results with quarter slim sankes used as primary fermenters, it would usually miss some of the krausen. You need to rinse the gunk at the bottom so it doesn't recirculate and occasionally change the water. I generally do one pass with PBW, two clear water rinses through the recirculation, then a quick rinse with the hose before sanitizing. Unless you're doing 4+ kegs at a sitting it probably isn't worth it. I tend to clean my kegs one or two at a time as they kick so it doesn't get much use. Overall I'd give it a B since it does its job but is kind of a pain in the rear end. If I was to have a utility sink I would probably modify it to be used in there instead of the bucket, I think the advantage of a larger reservoir of cleaning fluid would make it better. I give my Sanke CIP method a F. I looked at a few commercial keg washers that don't require removing the spear and figured "hey, i can do that". I took a tap, removed the check valves, put the biggest barbs I could find on, and hooked it up to my cleaning pump with hot water and PBW. With the kegs upside down water would go in the tap, up the spear, hit the bottom, and exit out the gas in. It worked pretty well with the garden hose to purge most of the yeast and primary fermentation residue but even recirculating for hours it couldn't get the krausen ring. The exit is too restrictive even with a big barb. I suspect that the taps used on cleaning machines, contrary to what you read, are modified for higher flow. 
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Jan 8, 2013 16:52
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My first beer ever was a raging success (an extract porter kit with a pack of beverage grade vanilla), and am currently fermenting out an all grain pumpkin dubbel from the Brooklyn Brew Shop book. It smells like heaven. I think if this turns out well, I'm going to just do all grain all the time.
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Jan 8, 2013 16:59
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Anyone have a proven session Amber ale recipe? I brewed a Flanders Red last weekend and I'm still out of homebrew so I need a recipe with a fast turnaround.
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Jan 8, 2013 18:14
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I was asked to brew a keg for a fishing trip. Me and my father in law are serious beer drinkers, everyone else there (I think) is more the bud light type. I'd like to give them an accessible beer that is still good. I threw together this amber recipe this morning: want a nice red color and a good balance. HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Amber Ale Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: American Amber Ale Boil Time: 90 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 7 gallons Efficiency: 65% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.058 Final Gravity: 1.014 ABV (standard): 5.85% IBU (tinseth): 36.74 SRM (daniels): 16.53 FERMENTABLES: 8 lb - American - Pale 2-Row (64%) 2 lb - American - Vienna (16%) 0.5 lb - American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (4%) 2 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 90L (16%) HOPS: 1 oz - cluster for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 7, IBU: 28.68) 0.5 oz - Cascade for 10 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 7, IBU: 5.2) 0.5 oz - Cascade for 5 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 7, IBU: 2.86) MASH STEPS: 1) Temperature, Temp: 153 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 15.6 qt, Water Temp: 170 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 23.5 qt, Water Temp: 183 YEAST: White Labs - California Ale Yeast WLP001 Starter: No Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 76.5% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temperature: 68 F - 73 F NOTES: Ferment at 67 Dry hop in secondary with 1 oz cascade Secondary for 12-14 days at 67, move to 34 degrees for 3-5 days thoughts? another style I should try? back off a bit on this one?
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Jan 8, 2013 19:58
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Why are you doing a 90 minute boil? And your hop additions don't start until 60 min. Not hating on it, just curious, because I've never seen a recipe like that.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:03
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global tetrahedron posted:Why are you doing a 90 minute boil? And your hop additions don't start until 60 min. Not hating on it, just curious, because I've never seen a recipe like that. actually that was something I forgot to change from the recipe I copied it from. will do this for 60.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:12
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Longer boils can promote denaturing and clearing of the beer, particularly if your heat source can't give you as hard as a boil as it should, so some people always do 90 minute boils of the wort. Edit: that beer is still going to be a massive step up from bud light. Maybe try a cream ale? baquerd fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 8, 2013 |
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Jan 8, 2013 20:27
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Seems like a lot of crystal malt for 5 gallons to me. I usually stay more in the 1 pound/5 gallons range, myself. I'd do a little 40L crystal or something, maybe 8 ounces, and maybe 1 or 2 ounces of black patent for color - but dink around with the amount of patent malt to get a color you like as it is easy to overshoot. Lots of amber or red beers are just pale beers with sinamar or black malt added.
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Jan 8, 2013 20:35
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Agreeing with Josh, 20% crystal malt is a shitton. Dial it back to around 10%
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Jan 8, 2013 20:39
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