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Sir Tonk posted:Mark VIII's seem to be holding their value worse the Mark VII's around here, so if you ever want an VIII let me know. There's typically a dozen for sale around here. Clean Mark VII hold their value well.... The Mark VIII is a better car but god drat it seems like every single one has been beaten on.
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Jan 16, 2013 22:26
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Are those flares made out of play dough?
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Jan 16, 2013 22:30
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I have a car for sale but I can't bother brushing the leaves off of it, giving it a wash, or cleaning jizz off the console. At least it is silver.  
Viggen fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 16, 2013 |
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Jan 16, 2013 23:17
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Sir Tonk posted:Is this your first car ever, or first project car? Either way, that Fury is a mountain of work if you aren't already great at body work . Unless you plan on keeping the paint that way, you'd be better off buying a restored one for a few thousand more. You can get a decently restored 70's two door for under $10k (maybe not in Canada), while you'd easily spend over that restoring that Fury. Paint and body work is terribly expensive. the engine/transmission stuff is the easy part. First car ever. I just intended to ride it into the ground over the next year or three. So long as it can pass safety, little touches like cracks in the dash or rust on the trim don't overly concern me. The whole appeal of the car is it's just a grand or so and with all the critical systems in working condition I might only need a little more cash to kick it up to road-worthy. Is there anything in particular visible on the car that'd need fixing? The paint I like as is, and while the interior is pretty rough the only thing that strikes me as a real safety concern is the seatbelts.
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Jan 16, 2013 23:38
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Sagebrush posted:Any time I see a car in that particular shade of blue, it just screams "I have been repainted to cover something up." Yeah....Earl Scheib $99 blue.
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Jan 17, 2013 00:03
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Dolash posted:First car ever. I just intended to ride it into the ground over the next year or three. So long as it can pass safety, little touches like cracks in the dash or rust on the trim don't overly concern me. The whole appeal of the car is it's just a grand or so and with all the critical systems in working condition I might only need a little more cash to kick it up to road-worthy. Is there anything in particular visible on the car that'd need fixing? The paint I like as is, and while the interior is pretty rough the only thing that strikes me as a real safety concern is the seatbelts. It's a horribly unsafe car on many levels. Even if he has replaced the brakes, it's unlikely that they've been upgraded at all. The brakes will lock up very easily and they take some getting used to. The steering is also very vague, but easy enough to fix if the pump goes out (assuming it has power steering). He may have fixed the suspension, but I'd be surprised if he replaced all the control arm bushings. Those are a headache, depending on the car, but it's really cheap for basic rubber replacements. Labor is gonna be high and it can be quite the ordeal removing them and the ball joints. You could always update the seat belts with a set from a wrecked 90's car from a junkyard, they're typically very similar, but it's already got shoulder belts so you're fine as long as the tensioner is still good. But that's kind of irrelevant as that car will not take a hit very well. The interior looks good enough and it's loads better than the exterior. Just throw a seat cover on there and give it a good vacuum. The engine looks pretty decent in the picture and if you want to learn about carburetors this would be a good place to start. Rebuild kits are ~$20 most of the time and it's an interesting thing to figure out in case the carb fails, which it will if it sits for too long. Also, I'm not sure if Canada has high levels of ethanol in the gas, but it's a headache for carbs down here. Lucas makes an additive that'll help cut the ethanol, as it burns at a different temperature and apparently will gum up a carb after time. And the 318 is a good motor, probably one of Chrysler's best V8's. Just keep in mind that the 318 had less power than a modern Civic and I'd be impressed if it's close to those levels at this point. Oh and good luck getting a bumper if he doesn't have the original. The big three were notorious for changing the bumper every year and often for different trim levels in the same year, which makes it very annoying to track down a replacement. You'd probably need one to pass a safety inspection and I can't tell if the mounting hardware is still there. You can get by without the grille, but the bumper is rather important in a wreck. If you're not looking to restore it, then go nuts. It looks like he has all the trim stuff that was removed, if that includes the bumper then it's an ok price. If he doesn't have the bumper, knock $500 off of the price unless he can produce one. Then find an old-school mechanic that has a bunch of years working on old Detroit iron and budget another grand or so for things that might need replacing and maybe new tires. It would also be helpful to set aside a month to really go through it and check for rotten hoses and blown bushings, you want to catch all that stuff before you start driving it as it'll just cause you problems. It helps if you already expect to spend a few weeks doing that kind of stuff. Here's a nice example of a two-door: http://www.powerful-cars.com/php/plymouth/1973-fury-gran-coupe.php Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 00:16
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I wish I had money to blow on something stupid..... http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/3548595107.html http://imgur.com/a/7tgI2 TheGoonspiracist fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 01:51
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the Mods, they knew!
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You could blow near 7 grand on a Lada apparently... http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3401373658.html quote:Lada russian car - $6600 (Harrisburg, PA) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q6vijgxh99pdmrj/5Bd-AUVlyS 
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Jan 17, 2013 02:46
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I'm more interested in the bobcat in the garage than that.....thing.
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Jan 17, 2013 02:49
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West SAAB Story posted:I have a car for sale but I can't bother brushing the leaves off of it, giving it a wash, or cleaning jizz off the console. I've seen used cars at dealerships that were dirtier than that, honestly.
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Jan 17, 2013 02:50
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oddspelling posted:I've seen used cars at dealerships that were dirtier than that, honestly. Inside?
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Jan 17, 2013 02:59
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West SAAB Story posted:Inside? Yep! Content:  $5,200 for an 11 year old Civic with over 130k on the odo seems a tad high to me, but then again it is South Texas.
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Jan 17, 2013 03:17
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oddspelling posted:Yep! Old Civics routinely go for $6,000 and up around here, mostly because of the ricer crew. Fun fact: did you know the insurance on an early to mid 90's Civic is slightly less than a STi?
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Jan 17, 2013 03:51
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West SAAB Story posted:Inside? The Miata I looked at last week appeared to be a crime scene inside.
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Jan 17, 2013 04:16
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Tusen Takk posted:Fun fact: did you know the insurance on an early to mid 90's Civic is slightly less than a STi? From all carriers, in all regions, for all people?
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Jan 17, 2013 04:34
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Sir Tonk posted:It's a horribly unsafe car on many levels. Even if he has replaced the brakes, it's unlikely that they've been upgraded at all. The brakes will lock up very easily and they take some getting used to. The steering is also very vague, but easy enough to fix if the pump goes out (assuming it has power steering). He may have fixed the suspension, but I'd be surprised if he replaced all the control arm bushings. Those are a headache, depending on the car, but it's really cheap for basic rubber replacements. Labor is gonna be high and it can be quite the ordeal removing them and the ball joints. You could always update the seat belts with a set from a wrecked 90's car from a junkyard, they're typically very similar, but it's already got shoulder belts so you're fine as long as the tensioner is still good. But that's kind of irrelevant as that car will not take a hit very well. The interior looks good enough and it's loads better than the exterior. Just throw a seat cover on there and give it a good vacuum. Thanks for the advice! You make a lot of good points here with lots of information I wouldn't know to look for. I'm pretty sure he replaced the bushings since he mentioned them to me when I asked about the suspension, although I can ask him again to be sure. He has the bumper and grill, and just took them off to do work on the car - he's said he can put them back on before selling it. As for mechanics, my cousins know a few good candidates (and learned quite a bit themselves when working on their Camaros). I know less than I should about a carburetors, but this is the chance to learn I suppose. My big concern at the moment then is learning what process I'd have to follow to take the car from where it's sitting right now to safetied, insured and roadworthy. It's plated and permitted but the safety and insurance has expired, and I'm not entirely sure what the first step is to getting it checked out (first time car buyer and all).
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Jan 17, 2013 04:37
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kimbo305 posted:From all carriers, in all regions, for all people? **For me and my parents in the state of Michigan with Allstate. Results may vary as expected based on various conditions.
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Jan 17, 2013 05:04
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Dolash posted:Thanks for the advice! You make a lot of good points here with lots of information I wouldn't know to look for. I'm pretty sure he replaced the bushings since he mentioned them to me when I asked about the suspension, although I can ask him again to be sure. He has the bumper and grill, and just took them off to do work on the car - he's said he can put them back on before selling it. As for mechanics, my cousins know a few good candidates (and learned quite a bit themselves when working on their Camaros). I know less than I should about a carburetors, but this is the chance to learn I suppose. How far does it need to go? If it's running, you could rent a trailer, drive it on there, and tow it back (assuming you have access to a pickup), or get it towed for what would likely be a couple of hundred dollars. I'm not sure how insurance works up there, but in Texas you can buy insurance for a day/month to cover moving a recently purchased vehicle to your residence. And I would hope it would be relatively easy to find out what the safety requirements are to register and inspect the vehicle, if it's anything like the states. See if he'll drive it to your place, that would also put it on him if it suddenly broke down. You could even offer to cover the insurance, I guess. And there's alot of parts to replace in even the simplistic suspension of the 70's. You've got control arm bushings, shocks/struts, ball joints, wheel bearings, springs, panhard bar bushings, and the steering stuff like tie rod ends. These parts are typically very inexpensive, don't bother with polyurethane if you're not going to keep the car, but take some serious time to replace if you don't have the right tools around. I doubt it's as bad as my Galaxies, the ball joints had half inch rivets holding them in, as I guess Ford didn't intend on the car outlasting them. Had to buy an air hammer for that job. Tusen Takk posted:Old Civics routinely go for $6,000 and up around here, mostly because of the ricer crew. Civics seem to go for alot around here because they have a perceived status as "bulletproof" and get good mileage. And really, the domestics didn't have a whole lot in the 90's that could compete other than the Prizm. Whenever gas goes up, the prices on old economy cars follows it. But yeah, the import racing scene certainly didn't help either. edit Man, I'd buy that Mark IV right now if I could find a company that made headers that'd fit. All the 460 headers are for F-150's. Why would I want a truck when I could have the ultimate example of 70's personal transportation? Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Jan 17, 2013 |
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Jan 17, 2013 05:52
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Fuuuuuck! 1 of 781, what up? Looks like the dude has an HHR SS too. Committed.
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Jan 17, 2013 17:17
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"additional soft top"? So it has a tarp that you can stretch over the roof instead of the targa top? I don't remember that being an option.
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Jan 17, 2013 17:53
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I'm not much of a Benz guy, is this as awesome as I think it is? http://louisville.craigslist.org/cto/3552203980.html
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Jan 17, 2013 17:56
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Throatwarbler posted:"additional soft top"? So it has a tarp that you can stretch over the roof instead of the targa top? I don't remember that being an option. A foldable soft-top that you can stow in the car. Calling it a "tarp" makes it sound more crude than it is.
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Jan 17, 2013 18:02
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Expensive gold. Basically a tuned M3 with Rolls Royce Leather for 200k http://www.dupontregistry.com/autos/search/DRauSearchDetails.aspx?itemid=1514173#.UPi2CKkbL4M.facebook quote:2011 BMW M3  
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Jan 18, 2013 04:04
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Preoptopus posted:Expensive gold. That interior looks like poo poo.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:18
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Dolash posted:First car ever. I just intended to ride it into the ground over the next year or three. So long as it can pass safety, little touches like cracks in the dash or rust on the trim don't overly concern me. The whole appeal of the car is it's just a grand or so and with all the critical systems in working condition I might only need a little more cash to kick it up to road-worthy. Is there anything in particular visible on the car that'd need fixing? The paint I like as is, and while the interior is pretty rough the only thing that strikes me as a real safety concern is the seatbelts. If this is going to be your first car and you dont really need it for driving around and instead want a project, continue. If you actually intend on driving this car and depending on it for work or school, you need to find something else. A big 70's mopar with a 318 was the first car in my name, but i was driving a honda to school and work. You can learn a lot of the basics of old american v8 RWD cars. Working on mopar suspensions avoids a coilspring, but the torsion bars are sometimes hard to remove. Something this old might have some serious seized up parts, requiring a torch to get parts out. I had my 79 chrysler on a lift and used a cutting torch to cut out the engine sub frame bushings, no way i couldve done it in my driveway. For the price i doubt the owner has replaced all the bushings and parts of the steering and suspension. Idler/pitman arms are $60ish, tie rod ends $30, ball joints $30 x 4 shocks $50 x 4, it goes on and on. A car with bad paint but few to no dents or rust is much better than a patched hacked up partially assembled car. A $600 paint job looks pretty good on mine. 
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Jan 18, 2013 04:29
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oddspelling posted:That interior looks like poo poo. Same color as baby poo poo. Baby been eating lots of carrots.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:37
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I wish I had a place for this in my life.http://iowacity.craigslist.org/cto/3543960085.html posted:I have for sale a 73 coronet wagon. 54,000 original miles. Car needs a little TLC but very good car and worth the money. 400 big block and 727 trans. New fuel line from front to back, new fuel pump, carb rebuilt, new coil, new battery, and tank been dropped and cleaned out. Main issue is brake work, I believe the rear brake line broke on way home. Will look into it more when it warms up a bit. Front brakes still stop it. Little surface rust in spots, but solid. Slight scrape by right rear tire that scraped molding but no dent. Interior is drat near perfect. Plastic panel next to driver seat on b pillar is cracked. 3 row seat has a a tear and rear carpet by 3rd row seat is intact but not the best. Rest is good. Make good resto project or drive it. Right now asking $2600 obo. If I fix stuff the price will go up. If it don't sell probably just keep it so no low ball offers. I don't need help selling and no scammers! 
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Jan 18, 2013 04:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Fuuuuuck! slidebite fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 05:56
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I sat in one of those once and the experience was like sitting in a tank. Not the kind with a gun, more like a sensory deprivation tank. Not pleasant.
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Jan 18, 2013 06:02
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I sat in a convertible one at an auto show once, i looked cleanly over the top of the windshield. I could have driven it but i would have needed goggles.
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Jan 18, 2013 06:37
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oddspelling posted:That interior looks like poo poo. Is it just me or does the RR leather look like clay in the photo? Such a weird color.
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Jan 18, 2013 08:37
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slidebite posted:They're rare no doubt, but is there a big benefit of the ragtop? Much more rigid?
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Jan 18, 2013 08:48
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Throatwarbler posted:those things were designed from the ground up as a vert, so probably not. Probably more trunk spaCe? Looking cool, being a 2 door RWD hatch. Sagebrush posted:I sat in one of those once and the experience was like sitting in a tank. Not the kind with a gun, more like a sensory deprivation tank. Not pleasant.
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Jan 18, 2013 11:44
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The Solstice GXP was the only trim they made hardtops in if I remember right, I have no idea why you would want to put a ragtop on it when a hardtop is a whole lot safer. Those things are wicked fast though; we had one with the GMPP stage kit making 290hp for the weekend, and since the hardtop weighed something like 2700lbs it was stupid quick and lots of fun. If I was going to get a fun 2 seater though I'd rather drop the $30,000 on a C6 Z06 
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Jan 18, 2013 17:10
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Throatwarbler posted:those things were designed from the ground up as a vert, so probably not. Probably more trunk spaCe? You could say the same thing about the Z3mcoupe but it was stiffened significantly over the M roadsters. But then again, this is a GM product.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:06
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BraveUlysses posted:But then again, this is a GM product. I don't remember there being any panel gap, so that's a plus! According to this it's a pretty reliable car, and I know that the LNF and the 2.4L (LTE I think it's called?) motor that's in it is, overall, very reliable and a great engine. The link is obviously extremely biased, but Edmunds seems to like it too so  .
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Jan 18, 2013 19:23
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You can find tons of coupes, but the GXP coupes are harder to find. 2009 is the only year for the targa top which makes the numbers low. They only sold 15k a year anyway so it is not like any particular year has a ton of gxps anyway. lovely GM interior ruins the whole car. One steering wheel for every GM car so says parts bin inc. Being championed by Bob lets bankrupt GM Lutz is not something to be proud of. Save yourself a ton of grief and buy a miata instead.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:29
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http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3473623954.html Anyone want a convertible Mark from the late 70's? Pretty sure this wasn't factory, so no telling how solid it is. I've never heard of any coach shops doing this job on the Mark V, but who knows. 1950 Dodge Coronet - Easy Project! - $3900 (Houston)  And another "this could be the car" one with extra ridiculous description. Lightbulb Out posted:I wish I had a place for this in my life. That's beautiful. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 21:48
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BraveUlysses posted:You could say the same thing about the Z3mcoupe but it was stiffened significantly over the M roadsters. Yeah, when they did the M coupe they kept all the convertible stiffening, and then added the roof. It made it 3 times stiffer.
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Jan 19, 2013 01:13
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Crustashio posted:Yeah, when they did the M coupe they kept all the convertible stiffening, and then added the roof. It made it 3 times stiffer. The M Coupe was clearly a mad scientist project, though. Someone in management (likely newly promoted) threw his career away to get that one produced. They should have made it the logo of the SAE because it encapsulates the hopes and dreams of car builders worldwide.
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Jan 19, 2013 04:57
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