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I think we should all switch over to what my friend has: a four ring beast of a burner that he calls the Global Warming Device. Really it is by far the most amazing burner I've ever had the pleasure to help brew with. Four independently adjustable rings lets you get a good even heat and if you need to you can just use the inner ring(s) to give you a very low heat. The only downside is the frame is very short but it is sturdy as anything.
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Jan 17, 2013 23:16
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I want to save up a little more money then go get this thing: http://www.bayouboiler.com/
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Jan 18, 2013 00:22
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Jo3sh posted:Also, some of those flat castings will blow themselves out with too much pressure - I have the fairly standard cup-shaped casting, and it does great at high throttle, but allows me to dial it down once the boil starts. I would never recommend the big flat banjo burners, they have awful control and love to blow out or have flame lift issues. The high pressure BG-10 burners are absolutely fantastic, put out enormous amounts of heat, and they run at any pressure, unlike the flat burners. http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-BG10-Cast-Iron-Replacement/dp/B0009JXYSW https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzdo9cgDGJw I use a 40 PSI regulator, crank it up to probably ~30 psi for starting the boil or bringing water up to temp, but the control well at low pressure too.
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Jan 18, 2013 02:32
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Okay guys, give me some advice on what to do with Sorachi Ace and Nelson Sauvin? I've got a pound of each I got for a song. They're 2012 harvest so no rush to use them up.
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Jan 18, 2013 03:24
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Hypnolobster posted:The high pressure BG-10 burners are absolutely fantastic, put out enormous amounts of heat, and they run at any pressure, unlike the flat burners. Those are the exact castings I use, and they run fine at 20PSI with the needle valve at any setting between full closed and full open. Angry Grimace posted:Okay guys, give me some advice on what to do with Sorachi Ace and Nelson Sauvin? I've got a pound of each I got for a song. They're 2012 harvest so no rush to use them up. SA has some fans and some anti-fans. I like it, and I sometimes do an all-SA IPA. I find it has a great lemon-peel/lemon-oil aroma and flavor. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 03:24
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Angry Grimace posted:Okay guys, give me some advice on what to do with Sorachi Ace and Nelson Sauvin? I've got a pound of each I got for a song. They're 2012 harvest so no rush to use them up. Brooklyn Brewery's brews their saison with Sorachi Ace hops, it's called Sorachi Ace and I think it's wonderful.
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Jan 18, 2013 03:25
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Midorka posted:Brooklyn Brewery's brews their saison with Sorachi Ace hops, it's called Sorachi Ace and I think it's wonderful. It's true, and just about one of the only worthwhile beers Brooklyn Brewery puts out. Planning on doing a sour-mash Berliner in the very near future. Anyone personally brew it both ways have a pro/cons and or prefer either? Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 03:30
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Jacobey000 posted:It's true, and just about one of the only worthwhile beers Brooklyn Brewery puts out. I don't think that's fair, their Lager is a great vienna lager, their brown ale is a fantastic and complex brown ale (admittedly I love the style), I love Black Ops and their Local 1 and 2 are pretty great. Their year rounds aren't very glitzy, but are all well done and great examples of the styles.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:00
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Midorka posted:Brooklyn Brewery's brews their saison with Sorachi Ace hops, it's called Sorachi Ace and I think it's wonderful. Meh, I don't like Saisons pretty much at all. I suppose that's really only leaving me with IPAs and such, but I've heard you can overdo SA.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:11
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Thank you Mr. Docjowles! The beers are in the fridge and the hops are in the freezer. Never used Chinook or Ahtanum, need to read up on the latter. I'll whip something up and post results, likewise for your beers...they sound friggin delicious! Angry Grimace posted:Okay guys, give me some advice on what to do with Sorachi Ace and Nelson Sauvin? I've got a pound of each I got for a song. They're 2012 harvest so no rush to use them up. I've done a pair of SA-focused saisons, both have come out well, but you have to give it time to calm down. Real lemony to start. If you wanted to dance with the devil though, use them as a bittering hop in an imperial red, or do a Nelson sauvin IPA and dry hop the poo poo out of it with sorachi ace. Comedy option: Stoutrachi Ace. That would be...interesting. Fake edit: use them both in big doses in a Humulus-esque lager. I'd drink the poo poo out of that.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:25
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almost fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 04:28
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wattershed posted:Thank you Mr. Docjowles! The beers are in the fridge and the hops are in the freezer. Never used Chinook or Ahtanum, need to read up on the latter. I'll whip something up and post results, likewise for your beers...they sound friggin delicious! As for that Sorachi, I'm going to sit on them until after I do some more experimental brews after the Bar Exam. Probably just gonna do a Rye IPA in the meantime...what's the consensus on a good Rye Malt percentage for a Rye IPA? My wife seems to want a Rye IPA and I'd rather it come out somewhat heavier rather than lighter on the Rye character.
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Jan 18, 2013 04:34
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Jo3sh posted:Those are the exact castings I use, and they run fine at 20PSI with the needle valve at any setting between full closed and full open. Very similar to what I have on mine as well. I think that the burner on mine may have slightly bored out vents to give the higher btu number (or they could be exaggerating) Wlp029 really smells awful when fermenting. Does anyone have suggestions for clearing out the sulfur and bread smell from my apartment?
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Jan 18, 2013 05:32
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almost fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 09:05
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Ill be starting a mead experiment in June when a couple of my carboys will free up. Here's what I'm thinking Cinnamon bun mead 2 gallon batch. 1 gal dry 1 gal sweet Cotes de blanc yeast Champaign yeast 3 lb orange blossom honey 3 lb blackberry honey 1.5 cinnamon sticks 1 vanilla bean 3 oranges zested 3 oranges juiced strain pulp 1/3 - 1/2 lb cara aroma malt heat water to 150-170 and steep malt zest and juice (25 min). Dissolve in honey and bring to pitching temp. Add must to separate 1 gal carboys and pitch respective yeasts. Ferment and rack onto half vanilla bean and age as desired. This is technically a Braggot since its a mead using malt and or hops but I'm also using fruit and spices so I'm not sure. maybe it's a Meloglinmal Braggot Any mead classification pros care fill me in? What do you guys think? Edit: Also I'm bottling my Oktoberfest this weekend so it should be drinkable by the Superbowl, I'll have pics that Sunday.
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Jan 18, 2013 16:07
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wattershed posted:Thank you Mr. Docjowles! The beers are in the fridge and the hops are in the freezer. Never used Chinook or Ahtanum, need to read up on the latter. I'll whip something up and post results, likewise for your beers...they sound friggin delicious! Yay, glad everything made it intact 
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Jan 18, 2013 17:45
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Shifty Pony posted:Very similar to what I have on mine as well. I think that the burner on mine may have slightly bored out vents to give the higher btu number (or they could be exaggerating) What temperature are you fermenting at? WLP029 does put out some sulfur, during the ferment, but never so much that I've objected to it or really noticed beyond poking my head in my fermentation closet during high krausen. I always keep it around 64*F while fermenting and there's 0 trace of sulfur by the time it's racked into the keg. Anyhow as far as the smell you could always crack a window, or if it's too cold out for that you can just boil some cinnamon sticks or spray some febreeze around or what have you.
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Jan 18, 2013 18:11
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Hey y'all, felt like sharing my Christmas beer recipe from this last year, a beefy wit beer with lots spices. The spices came out really balanced, which is a thrill.quote:Christmas Beer 2012, Spicy Wit Marshmallow Blue posted:This is technically a Braggot since its a mead using malt and or hops but I'm also using fruit and spices so I'm not sure. maybe it's a Meloglinmal Braggot I found an old 19th century book mostly about bottling, but had some beer and mead recipes (link) and I'm trying out the "Scotch Mead" recipe. It's not what it sounds like. It's half honey, half brown sugar, with hops, lemon peel, and ginger. I used dark brown sugar and this mead is BLACK. My brewing software tells me it's too dark to be a specialty mead, which cracks me up. Still fermenting after 2 months, but really looking forward to it.
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Jan 18, 2013 18:14
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almost posted:If I'm not planning to age my cider, am I taking a risk by adding campden tablets 24-48 hours before bottling? I've heard that the sulfur smell can stick around longer in cider. Campden (sulfite) will slow down the active yeast and potassium sorbate will keep them from multiplying, hence restarting fermentation. So you should use them together before bottling. You can still rack it after adding the sulfite. It acts as prevention against oxidation by binding up any oxygen that is introduced. Cold crashing is worth trying but it won't interfere with the sulfite/sorbate. Aging is really a matter of taste and process. Some processes (or lack of) are going to produce things you don't want. Some of those will age out and some won't. You try to control as many of the factors as you reasonably can (like fermentation temperature and sanitation) and hope for the best. Marshmallow Blue posted:This is technically a Braggot since its a mead using malt and or hops but I'm also using fruit and spices so I'm not sure. maybe it's a Meloglinmal Braggot The BJCP guidelines might have more to say about it but my tendency is to call it by whichever type is most dominant. If I make a mead with 10 pounds of blackberries and a little spice then I'm going to call it a melomel, not a metheglin.
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Jan 18, 2013 18:17
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BerkerkLurk posted:
I might try a small batch of this, but use like half the brown sugar and use Buckwheat honey which has brown sugary / molasses qualities in the flavor department. My apple cider mead is dark brown but clearing nicely. Should look really nice in October. Okay, so the cinnamon bun mead is a braggot since I'm the most malt with a bit of fruit and spices. I may use more malt, im just not sure how much to use on only a 2 gallon batch. Anyone think I should bump it up to 2/3 or a full pound?
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Jan 18, 2013 18:26
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Cpt.Wacky posted:The BJCP guidelines might have more to say about it but my tendency is to call it by whichever type is most dominant. If I make a mead with 10 pounds of blackberries and a little spice then I'm going to call it a melomel, not a metheglin. I entered a rose hip mead into competition once and I wrote "rose hips are fruit I guess, not sure if this is a metheglin or not?" and the judge wrote back in his notes "good question."
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Jan 18, 2013 18:27
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Super Rad posted:What temperature are you fermenting at? WLP029 does put out some sulfur, during the ferment, but never so much that I've objected to it or really noticed beyond poking my head in my fermentation closet during high krausen. I always keep it around 64*F while fermenting and there's 0 trace of sulfur by the time it's racked into the keg. The fermentation fridge is set at 68, so the primary was fermenting at around 69-70. It wouldn't be much of a deal except I'm in a fialy small place and the fridge is centrally located. Now that fermentation has dropped off the smell is starting to dissipate but I'm planning on doing a cider this spring and those normally reek. Cinnamon sticks would probably cover it up nicely (and make my house smell like pie  )
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Jan 18, 2013 18:56
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Any thoughts on this quad recipe are greatly appreciated. Going to cook it tomorrow. HOME BREW RECIPE: Title: Quadrupel Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Belgian Specialty Ale Boil Time: 90 min Batch Size: 4 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 5.5 gallons Efficiency: 65% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.095 Final Gravity: 1.021 ABV (standard): 9.72% IBU (tinseth): 24.82 SRM (morey): 34.91 FERMENTABLES: 6 lb - United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale (41.4%) 5 lb - Belgian - Pilsner (34.5%) 1 lb - Belgian Candi Sugar - Dark (6.9%) 0.5 lb - Belgian - Biscuit (3.4%) 0.5 lb - Belgian - Cara 45L (3.4%) 0.5 lb - Belgian - Special B (3.4%) 0.5 lb - Belgian Candi Sugar - Clear/Blond (3.4%) 0.5 lb - Honey (3.4%) HOPS: 0.5 oz - East Kent Goldings for 90 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 5, IBU: 10.7) 1 oz - Styrian Goldings for 15 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 5.5, IBU: 10.92) 1 oz - Hersbrucker for 5 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil (AA 4, IBU: 3.19) MASH STEPS: 1) Infusion, Temp: 133 F, Time: 30 min, Amount: 15.5 qt, Water Temp: 147 2) Temperature, Temp: 152 F, Time: 45 min, Amount: 5.5 qt, Water Temp: boiling 3) Temperature, Temp: 158 F, Time: 20 min, Amount: 2.5 qt, Water Temp: boiling 4) Sparge, Temp: 167 F, Amount: 11.5 qt, Water Temp: 188 OTHER INGREDIENTS: 0.2 oz - Coriander seed, Time: 10 min, Type: Spice, Use: Boil 0.25 g - Grains of Paradise, Time: 10 min, Type: Spice, Use: Boil YEAST: White Labs - Abbey IV Ale Yeast WLP540 Starter: Yes Form: Liquid Attenuation (avg): 78% Flocculation: Medium Optimum Temp: 66 - 72 F Fermentation Temp: 68 F Pitch Rate: 1.0 (M cells / ml / deg P) NOTES: 2L starter required Primary Fermentation: 10 Days @ 68-70f Secondary Fermentation: 45 Days @ 68f, 14 days @ 36f Bottle condition, cellar forever
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Jan 18, 2013 19:32
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Knowing this thread, you're gonna get yelled at to use Candi Syrup as opposed to Candi sugar.
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Jan 18, 2013 19:34
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YOU SHOULD USE... Wait, sorry. But yeah, syrup is way easier to use than the crystallized stuff. And I think you should be using more of it, too. The quad from rage-saq is 15-18% or so dark candi syrup, and there's no color malt in it. I'd go 7 pounds Belgian pils, 7 pounds Belgian pale ale malt, and 3 pounds of dark candi syrup, myself. Here's my interpretation of rage-saq's recipe: http://hopville.com/recipe/546097
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Jan 18, 2013 20:32
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Jo3sh posted:YOU SHOULD USE... Keep in mind it's not saq's only quad - he also has a new world version with a bunch of specialty malts in it. But agree that you absolutely should NOT use clear candi syrup or sugar - it's a waste of money. If you're going to spend money on expensive candi syrup, use it on what will actually give you flavour.
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Jan 18, 2013 21:13
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Jo3sh posted:Here's my interpretation of rage-saq's recipe: I have read only high praise from saq's quad. Also reiterating that using clear candi is simply just buying a bag of store 'white' sugar and putting it in a different package. also bewbies, you may consider dropping the spice additions to 5min instead of 10.
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Jan 18, 2013 21:32
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Changed Candi sugars to 2 lbs of 180 syrup. Thanks for the input! All that crap was like 70 bucks, this had be one hell of a beer....in August, when it is finished.
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Jan 18, 2013 21:44
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bewbies posted:Changed Candi sugars to 2 lbs of 180 syrup. Thanks for the input! Primary for four weeks, bottle for two weeks then start drinking that poo poo. It'll be good to age but just as good in six weeks, just in a different way.
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Jan 18, 2013 22:54
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Kegging Question: Does anyone have experience with these conversion kits to turn Sankey into Ball Lock? http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=64 Seems pretty easy and straight forward, but I'm a newb.
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Jan 18, 2013 23:26
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Dumb noob question time! I bottled up my first batch of terrible Mr. Beer (It tastes like beer, so that did well at least!) and found my local homebrew shop and got some stuff. I now have a variety of ingredients and am unsure how best to proceed. I have some unhopped malt extract, some hops, some various spices, a bag of..something? I think it's Honey Malt? I was in a tad bit of a hurry at the shop and didn't ask all the questions I should have. But with a MrBeer keg, what's the procedure? I have a "ProMash" recipe printout that's not giving me steps, just ingredients and boiling times and such. Anyone point me at a "do these steps" page or something?
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Jan 18, 2013 23:48
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Dohaeris posted:Dumb noob question time! I bottled up my first batch of terrible Mr. Beer (It tastes like beer, so that did well at least!) and found my local homebrew shop and got some stuff. Umm, so you have a specific recipe? Edit: what kind of beer are you trying to make and how many gallons of it? Also how much of each ingredient would also help us help you. bengy81 fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jan 18, 2013 |
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Jan 18, 2013 23:55
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bengy81 posted:Umm, so you have a specific recipe? 2.5 Gallons I have: 3.3 lbs Briess LME-Weizen .25 lbs Honey Malt .19oz Goldings-E.K. .24 oz Czech Saaz .04 oz Corriander Seed .12 oz Bitter Orange Peel and a packet of yeast in the fridge. Is this as simple as combine water and malt/malt extract, boil for an hour, put in keg, add spices/yeast, wait till done? edit: Oh, and the recipe is listed as a 16-A Hoegaarden White. I've got more specifics on this page if needed.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:01
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Mikey Purp posted:Kegging Question: It'll work fine but the problem is there's no good way to clean a sanke keg at home.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:24
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Read in a couple placed that CO2 being released during dry hopping can carry away a good deal of the hop aroma with it. I'm brewing a big IIPA tomorrow and I'm wondering if I should wrack to secondary to degass it after primary finishes or if a a few big swirls of the carboy will get the job done before I add the dry hops. Any wisdom on this topic?
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Jan 19, 2013 00:35
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Did somebody order some cold break?
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Jan 19, 2013 00:42
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Mikey Purp posted:Kegging Question: That doesn't really turn a Sankey into a ball lock - what it does is give you a Sankey fitting with flare connections on the gas and beer connections, so you can remove the ball lock fittings from your existing lines and serve commercial beer. No reason it would not work for that, it's just a keg coupler, but meh. I have enough beer around already.
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Jan 19, 2013 00:46
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Dohaeris posted:2.5 Gallons stupid simple thing to do with this: Prep the yeast by putting it in a sanitized, covered bowl with some room temp purified water and a few drops of the LME. Mix with a sanitized spoon or something. Boil the malt and lme in 2 gallons of water for 60 minutes, chuck the hops in when there's 30 minutes left. When the 60 minutes is up, pull it off the stove, put it in an ice bath, and chuck the coriander/peel into the pot. When it gets down to ~80 degrees, pour it into the sanitized mr beer keg, top it off with cold purified water, chuck the yeast in. Wait. While you're waiting, go to your local brew store and buy some upgraded equipment. Bottle with priming sugar Wait some more. Drink.
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Jan 19, 2013 06:43
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fullroundaction posted:Read in a couple placed that CO2 being released during dry hopping can carry away a good deal of the hop aroma with it. I'm brewing a big IIPA tomorrow and I'm wondering if I should wrack to secondary to degass it after primary finishes or if a a few big swirls of the carboy will get the job done before I add the dry hops. Any wisdom on this topic? I generally only have heard this from attempting to dry hop in active fermentation. However, dry hopping in the primary when its reaching the tail end of active fermentation is becoming very popular recently due to the belief that it prevents oxidation of the beer due to the introduction of the dry hops. I don't know though, oxidation is a huge bugaboo in the home brew world, but I've made a billion mistakes like letting the cap of my secondary fall off, dropping the into the secondary from up high, rough splashing, you name it and I've never had a beer encounter serious (or even really noticable) staling due to oxidation.
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Jan 19, 2013 09:28
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almost fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Jan 19, 2013 12:39
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