|
Uthor posted:I bought one of those a few months ago and am curious: can I use the any generic leads with it? This linked HF one? http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html If so, my Extech leads work with it fine. Those same leads also work on my Fluke, so maybe that's what's considered "generic". Mine were ordered specifically as Extech leads so I'm not sure.
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 00:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 11:43 |
|
|
Yeah, that one. I was looking around at Lowes and Amazon and see many leads with similar plugs. I just wasn't sure if the plugs are a standard or manufacturer specific. Sounds like they are all standard. Good to know. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 02:00
|
|
|
grover posted:I have everything up to a full $10,000 Fluke 435 at work, but just use a $20 wal-mart special for myself at home. Even that's probably about $15 more than you need to spend for residential/light hobby work, and even cheap digital multimeters are surprisingly accurate. Make sure it does AC and DC volts and ohms and you're in pretty good shape.  Just bought this one last week. My first multimeter! I'm going around checking voltage on everything!It did successfully tell me that there is, indeed, a parasitic draw on my car when it's off. Now just have to narrow it down. It's pretty cool.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 03:36
|
|
|
Uthor posted:I bought one of those a few months ago and am curious: can I use the any generic leads with it? Astroman posted:
 Do be aware there's always a tolerance/margin of error on these meters- you can look on the package for the specs on yours, but it's generally something like "0.1 +/-2%" but it can vary, especially on the fringes of it's range. For instance, I can't accurately measure currents less than 1A with my 1000A ExTech clamp ammeter- just letting it sit there on my desk, it'll say there's 0.8A flowing, which clearly isn't true. But it'll read a couple hundred amps within 0.1A of a really high-dollar calibrated fluke.grover fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 03:41
|
|
|
Some meters have slightly smaller plugs which make it harder to push the leads in, but I doubt you will find any that won't fit at all.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 04:20
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:True rms is key too. Is this true for mostly automotive stuff? I'm still not clear on when it will be needed, but it seemed like non-car AC stuff. At first, I was looking at 2 that had True RMS. $54.98 Extech EX430 True RMS Autoranging Multimeter with K Type, Capacitance, Frequency, and Duty Cycle http://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX430-Autoranging-Multimeter-Capacitance/dp/B0000WU1AC/ $62.96 - Amprobe AM-530 TRMS Electrical Contractor Multimeter with Non-Contact Voltage Detector and Temperature http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-AM-530-Electrical-Non-Contact-Temperature/dp/B007FZFE9K/ Then I kept reading how most people are happy with their cheaper meters for basic needs. I think I'm going to go with this: $30.99 Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-Digital-Manual-Multimeter/dp/B0050LVFS0/ It seems like I'll be needing to save some cash for leads anyway. Are there any useful leads that are often bought separately?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 06:29
|
|
|
Alligator clips if your meter doesn't come with them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 14:15
|
|
|
E30User posted:Is this true for mostly automotive stuff? I'm still not clear on when it will be needed, but it seemed like non-car AC stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 15:45
|
|
|
True, but you have a house/apartment, right? That Extech for $55 is a pretty good deal if you need TRMS. If not, a cheap piece of HF crap will be fine if you just need "~12v, or continuity here" and "Nope, no voltage/continuity here". I've got a 20 year old Craftsman that I use in the garage, and a set of Milwaukee TRMS/Amp clamp meters for the house.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 16:15
|
|
|
If you are doing all automotive work a Power Probe might be a better solution. My mechanic friends use theirs about 20x as much as they use their multimeters. The new Power Probe 3s have a voltage gauge built in. http://www.powerprobe.com/pp3.php
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 18:43
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:If you are doing all automotive work a Power Probe might be a better solution. My mechanic friends use theirs about 20x as much as they use their multimeters. The new Power Probe 3s have a voltage gauge built in. Power Probes are awesome. Expensive, but awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 19:47
|
|
|
Astroman posted:
Assuming that you're not driving a 48 Chevy, the parasitic draw you detected might be your radio or PCM retaining power. Try this method: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133226 camino fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jan 17, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
~20-30 milliamps is usually considered acceptable in a modern car.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 01:16
|
|
|
I should have asked here instead of the stupid questions thread. Is the 14point7 AFR kit the best value for money still? I'd really like one for diagnostic purposes on lots of things.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 01:45
|
|
|
stevobob posted:~20-30 milliamps is usually considered acceptable in a modern car. And 600-800 in many luxobarges. And that's after an hour of being shut off. Many cars will draw quite a bit more for 10/15/20/30 minutes or more before various systems end up in "sleep" mode. So be sure of what you're looking at before you drive yourself crazy trying to find a problem that might not be there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 02:19
|
|
|
I had a battery drain issue with a brand-new battery at 250. How in the world could a car take 800ma parked in sleep?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 11:37
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I had a battery drain issue with a brand-new battery at 250. How in the world could a car take 800ma parked in sleep? All I can say is....Cadillac.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 16:42
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I had a battery drain issue with a brand-new battery at 250. How in the world could a car take 800ma parked in sleep? Something probably keeping one of the computers awake. Start pulling fuses while watching your meter and see which makes the draw drop.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 22:27
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I had a battery drain issue with a brand-new battery at 250. How in the world could a car take 800ma parked in sleep? Key off drain. Edit: Do what the post above me said. Also check to make sure the battery and terminals are properly secured. If you see corrosion, you can wash it off with coca cola. Lastly check your alternator by running your car and looking at the meter. It should read somewhere around 14 volts.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2013 22:44
|
|
|
Motronic posted:All I can say is....Cadillac. Yep. This is the god drat truth. I actually fixed the god drat leak in my car. Turns out it was a relay that had been causing my issues. It was just enough to not cause another system to go to sleep. And then that in turn cause another system to stay awake. So yes, check your relays as well. Some times poo poo wont sleep correctly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 00:37
|
|
|
I fixed the issue, see my E36 thread. The point was that 250ma was enough to drain a brand new battery in 1-2 nights. I refuse to believe ANY car can draw 8/10 of an amp sleeping and not drain the battery.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 00:48
|
|
|
Did anyone else buy an obdII scanner from that newegg deal? The pin wasn't on the cd, and so far 0000, 1234, and 6789 haven't worked. I'd check the newegg comments but they took down the product page.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 22:29
|
|
|
revmoo posted:I fixed the issue, see my E36 thread. The point was that 250ma was enough to drain a brand new battery in 1-2 nights. I refuse to believe ANY car can draw 8/10 of an amp sleeping and not drain the battery. Yeah...I just looked back and post wasn't very clear. 800 before going to sleep. 800 ma draw will drain a 650/750 CCA battery under what it will take to start again in about 3 days.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 22:35
|
|
|
thebigcow posted:Did anyone else buy an obdII scanner from that newegg deal? The pin wasn't on the cd, and so far 0000, 1234, and 6789 haven't worked. I'd check the newegg comments but they took down the product page. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2013 22:56
|
|
|
I tried it again after work and 1234 worked fine. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
thebigcow posted:I tried it again after work and 1234 worked fine. Some of them only stay in pairing mode (or sometimes even discoverable) for so long after being powered up. Maybe it had passed that amount of time when you tried before.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2013 16:57
|
|
|
So multimeters are a new thing to me. I've had a really lovely $5 one that I got for free that I use to check "does it have voltage?" on the lemons car. Right now I badly need to diagnose my parasitic drain on my german luxobarge. I imagine it's things not going to sleep, but I need an idiot-proof multimeter that I can hook up to the battery and it will say, "here's your current flow!" Or at least comes with a manual that tells me how to read that. Looking through all the one's you guys just happened to be discussing earlier in the page, I can't really tell one from the other. I'd like to spend less than $50, closer to $30? I think the main thing that confuses me is all the symbols, my free one never came with a manual  .
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 05:52
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:So multimeters are a new thing to me. I've had a really lovely $5 one that I got for free that I use to check "does it have voltage?" on the lemons car. Right now I badly need to diagnose my parasitic drain on my german luxobarge. I imagine it's things not going to sleep, but I need an idiot-proof multimeter that I can hook up to the battery and it will say, "here's your current flow!" Or at least comes with a manual that tells me how to read that. Looking through all the one's you guys just happened to be discussing earlier in the page, I can't really tell one from the other. I'd like to spend less than $50, closer to $30? I think the main thing that confuses me is all the symbols, my free one never came with a manual The one you have would appear to be able to do just that....to the extent that any other one can. It looks like it has a DC amp setting. Just google "how to test for parasitc draw", watch some youtube videos and ask if you need more information. You have a knowledge deficiency, not a tool deficiency. And you can fix that for free.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 05:56
|
|
|
Found a video, feel a lot more confident now. The worry is if the tool is up to the draw of the bigger circuits. Now I understand what more of the numbers and symbols mean too! Once I find the drawing circuit, I get to open up my 2" thick E39 Bentley Electrical manual.....
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 09:20
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:Found a video, feel a lot more confident now. The worry is if the tool is up to the draw of the bigger circuits. Now I understand what more of the numbers and symbols mean too! Once I find the drawing circuit, I get to open up my 2" thick E39 Bentley Electrical manual.....  Just don't try and measure starting current and you're most likely gonna be fine. Worst case, you're out a $5 multimeter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 00:46
|
|
|
Yup don't try to start it or use a power window/sunroof and you should be fine. Avoid the locks to be safe also.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 01:44
|
|
|
Anybody have any experience with Blue Point stuff? Considering getting a roll cart this week. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=allll&item_ID=743162&group_ID=681837&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog (Snap-On guy wants to unload it on me for 350) I know its China and everything and that tool storage is never an investment. But somehow I want to believe its better quality than Craftsman for basically the same price. I also want a cart I can sit on for obvious reasons.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 06:31
|
|
|
grover posted:
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 09:18
|
|
|
Just bought myself this set: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/combo-kits/2696-29 And a 240v charger because the kit i bought from the US is 110v... paid $1195 for the kit, $80 for the charger, and the RRP of the kit in Australia is anywhere from $1600 to $1800!
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 10:38
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:Anybody have any experience with Blue Point stuff? Considering getting a roll cart this week. Get the HF cart. Seriously. It is incredibly well built, and sells for $150. You can add a better side table or can storage for a lot less than $200. Or get the BP, it'll sell for more money if you want to sell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 18:31
|
|
|
nmfree posted:The fuse on that multimeter is 10A; AFAIK the only thing that's going to be too much is the starter, although I'm sure I'll get a dozen other things on an auto that routinely draw more. Usually the 10A is unfused. Kick it too hard and it's dead. I grabbed one of these when it was $9. It works for tracking down parasitic draw just as easily, and if I pop the fuse, I just need to replace the fuse.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 19:29
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Get the HF cart. Seriously. It is incredibly well built, and sells for $150. You can add a better side table or can storage for a lot less than $200. The US General they have at HF feels like it will fall apart once I drag it over the drain that runs down the middle of the shop. I dont know if the display model is just built like poo poo or if its the actual quality... Either way Im scared to trust it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 20:53
|
|
|
I have been pleased with my HF carts. Maybe you need to tighten up the bolts? I swapped all mine to lock nuts and never had a problem since then. Also the normal price of 700 for Snap-On cart and the drat thing isn't assembled? That's crap.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 21:13
|
|
|
West SAAB Story posted:Usually the 10A is unfused. Kick it too hard and it's dead. I grabbed one of these when it was $9. It works for tracking down parasitic draw just as easily, and if I pop the fuse, I just need to replace the fuse. That actually looks pretty handy. I used min yesterday and got about 2/3 of the way through when i had to stop. Only thing is I think the scale is messed up, or I have a 30 Amp parasitic draw.... It went down to 6 after I pulled the fuel pump fuse, but then didn't go back up after I put it back in. It needs more work. I bought the $30 one someone linked earlier on amazon. looks to be the exact same as the $45 HF one. That being said I may also pick up this fuse tester at my local HF tonight...
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 11:43 |
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:That being said I may also pick up this fuse tester at my local HF tonight... Make sure you get the right one. They were selling the ATM as the ATC for a long time (its a smaller fuse). E: They're now offering a 30A ATC one as well for the same price, guess they never got their staff to figure out the difference between the two 20s. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 21:55
|
|