|
Dude posted some pics of the '99 with the "blown motor" http://imgur.com/a/ayRDR#P5sRmKm I should probably just offer via email to pay his asking price tomorrow assuming it matches the photos/description. I have the cash I just wasn't expecting something like this to show up.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 00:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:17 |
|
|
grumplestiltzkin posted:July 26-28th is the Miatas at the Gap event at Tail of the Dragon. I'm already on taking some vacation time and driving up from Florida. Any other AIgoons plan on going? Apparently last year there were over 400 Miatas spreading the Shameless plug..... http://www.aforwardmotion.com/miatas-at-the-gap-xvi/ I've been going for awhile now. I recently moved away from the gap  but I make a run every 3 months or less.Nodoze posted:Are d2's any good on miatas? The reviews I've read people seem to like them There's lots of setups I would consider before D2's. FM's Vmaxx, Koni/GC setup, Tein Flex, and the answer to any suspension for a miata, Xida's from 949racing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 03:07
|
|
faced love at the gap.
|
I took the 2 up to the gap, it wasn't as much fun as the Miata.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 03:11
|
|
|
grumplestiltzkin posted:July 26-28th is the Miatas at the Gap event at Tail of the Dragon. I'm already on taking some vacation time and driving up from Florida. Any other AIgoons plan on going? Apparently last year there were over 400 Miatas spreading the I probably will maybe go. Id like to see how people are fitting seats.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 03:37
|
|
|
Nodoze posted:Someone here has done a 1.8 swap before right? Is it as easy as people make it out to be? There a 1.6 for sale with a hard top at a good price and my friend has an extra 1.8 set up with a torsen that I could probably buy off him. Externally they are the same motor. Only thing you need to do is make the engine controls work. Not sure if you can swap sensors around so a 1.6L ECU runs a 1.8L motor. I'm sure it could be done but it wouldn't be ideal and would need band aids like a FPR to not run lean as poo poo. Aftermarket ECU would be the "easiest" way to solve that but then you'd have to tune it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2013 04:12
|
|
|
Flyin' miata sells a 1.8 swap kit. Seems easy enough.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 01:31
|
|
|
I hate my goddamned Miata. I have a slight misfire in the car. It's most noticable at very slight throttle, basically when maintaining speed on the highway, or driving slowly in parking garages and such. Every time I think I've had the issue fixed, it takes about 20 minutes of driving for it to come back again. I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, and Ignition coil, every time I replaced these it drove fine for about 30 minutes, then the misfire came back. I've also replaced the TPS and Fuel Filter for unrelated reasons. When I replaced the ignition coil, I noticed a lot of carbon in the spark plug towers on them. Tonight I'm going to go home and make sure all of the other stuff didn't foul my plugs since I replaced them first. In addition to this I think something on my coil pack may be getting too hot since I've replaced it, as the car has an unusual odor coming from the back of the engine bay now. Awesome. I'm also going to clean two ground points tonight, one under the brake MC and the other by the throttle body and see if that resolves anything too. Does anyone else have any thoughts as to what it could be, or what other checks I could do to try to diagnose this issue? It's incredibly frustrating, why do the ignitions on these cars suck so much rear end. edit: Car is a 1996 with 108k miles on it, and probably a less-than-stellar prior service history. edit2: No codes unfortunately. Korwen fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jan 24, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 23:05
|
|
|
Any codes? I put injectors in a friends Miata that was misfiring from a leaky injector. We decided on that after going through most of the ignition system.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2013 23:36
|
|
|
I had a very similar issue that wouldnt die, and it was fixed by a better-quality valve cover gasket (and wires, for me). I had oil and water getting into the spark plug "chamber" (?) and causing rough running. An ebay one started the issue, than a local auto parts store one, when i bit the bullet and went to mazda for the part, the issues stopped. Check for signs of oil and water on top of the plugs, and change if you see anything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 00:10
|
|
|
Going to check out the $1500 '99 with the "blown engine" on Saturday. The guy told me the best offer he has is $1250, which is a strange thing to say. It tells me it's either in much worse condition than he leads on, or there is no one around here not scared off by the "blown engine" line in the posting. Other than the usual Miata stuff, is there anything specific I should look out for on an NB? Is there anything I can do to get an idea of what kind of damage the engine suffered by being ran without oil?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 03:17
|
|
|
 It works! Or it boots, flashes firmware, and talks to TunerStudio, anyway. Now all I have to do is jumper it to the connector board, add a few more odds and ends, replace injectors, switch out the O2 sensor (curse it), IAT, run a vacuum hose for the MAP sensor, some odds and ends of wiring, and settle down with a good book on tuning. If only it was warm enough to go work in the garage...
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
Korwen posted:Does anyone else have any thoughts as to what it could be, or what other checks I could do to try to diagnose this issue? It's incredibly frustrating, why do the ignitions on these cars suck so much rear end. It's very possible that you got a bad plug. Or the fuel pump could be acting up. The ignitions aren't that bad, it just needs to be maintained. On my next Miata I'm gonna do the Toyota COP swap and fuhgeddaboudit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 06:41
|
|
|
I'm never going to pass a broomstick test, am I? This is with an inch of foam removed already.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Style bars are a waste of time. Sell it and get a full roll bar. My current car came with one and I was able to get 200$ for it in like 24H, if you're fine with sitting on it for a while 300+ isn't out of the question either.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 18:02
|
|
|
You only need to be under the bar for track. That is a real rollbar. Boss Frog iirc
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 18:18
|
|
|
Phone posted:You only need to be under the bar for track. It is indeed. I had plans to take it out to Mid-Ohio Raceway this year. I'm only 6', but I guess I must be all torso or something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 19:15
|
|
|
saint gerald posted:It is indeed. I had plans to take it out to Mid-Ohio Raceway this year. I'm only 6', but I guess I must be all torso or something. Bolt another seat to the floor, you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
I have a 2006 Miata with 41000 miles on it. What maintenance should I perform, if any? I've had this done so far:
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2013 23:46
|
|
|
destructo posted:Bolt another seat to the floor, you'll be fine. This. I had an even worse problem than him, i was probibly an inch or two OVER the bar on the stock seat and rails, so i bought a used Sparco sprint V, a pre-fabbed seat bracket, and wielded 2 90 degree steel brackets to bolt the seat to. Got me well below the bar, but with the helmet on im not as low as i'd like.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 00:19
|
|
|
Dominoes posted:I have a 2006 Miata with 41000 miles on it. What maintenance should I perform, if any? I don't think you really have to do anything, but this is recommended for pre-FL NBs by ~40k miles, if you feel like it:
Last year I did most of these on my NBFL which has similar mileage but obviously is a bit older. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 00:51
|
|
|
Dominoes posted:I have a 2006 Miata with 41000 miles on it. What maintenance should I perform, if any? Look in the owners manual - do services at mileages it recommends.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
MattD1zzl3 posted:This. I had an even worse problem than him, i was probibly an inch or two OVER the bar on the stock seat and rails, so i bought a used Sparco sprint V, a pre-fabbed seat bracket, and wielded 2 90 degree steel brackets to bolt the seat to. Got me well below the bar, but with the helmet on im not as low as i'd like. How's the Sprint V for longer trips? I know it's not going to be as comfy as stock, but as long as it's bearable for a few hours at a stretch I should be able to get out to Lexington.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 01:18
|
|
|
saint gerald posted:How's the Sprint V for longer trips? I know it's not going to be as comfy as stock, but as long as it's bearable for a few hours at a stretch I should be able to get out to Lexington. I find it better than stock. Stock seats in a '99 are the worst though. In the stock seats by back would kill after a few hours, with the sprint v my rear end goes a bit numb but my back is fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 02:53
|
|
|
saint gerald posted:How's the Sprint V for longer trips? I know it's not going to be as comfy as stock, but as long as it's bearable for a few hours at a stretch I should be able to get out to Lexington. Unless Lexington is where you event is swapping out seats takes ~15-20 minutes per seat once you do it a handful of times.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2013 04:35
|
|
|
saint gerald posted:How's the Sprint V for longer trips? I know it's not going to be as comfy as stock, but as long as it's bearable for a few hours at a stretch I should be able to get out to Lexington. Another opinion: It's not great. The bottom is paper thin and if you're mounting to the floor you'll probably be feeling the floor pan. It's very upright and you have to mount it with a decent angle for it to be even remotely comfortable. I was not a fan.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2013 00:16
|
|
|
So tax return time! I plan on buying some Koni shocks with some tax money and wanted to know what springs people recommend? I plan to do some autocrossing this season.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 16:22
|
|
|
So, now that the rollbar, sparco buckets, and 6 points are in, I'm torn on what to do next. The plan eventually is: -RB 1.125" hollow front swaybar -9" wide 6UL's with 225/45/15 rubber -Xida clubsports with dual springs or FCM's, I'm torn between the two. Likely 700/400 spring rates. The thing is, I can likely only do suspension or wheels this year, but not both. The sway bar is likely going to be done this year. Is there something I'm missing in terms of easy performance, or that should really be done before the above?
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 19:58
|
|
|
Do you have an NB? Grab a 2001-2005 header.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 20:02
|
|
|
Yeah sorry, '99NB. E: from what I'm reading, that's about a 2-4hp & a 2-4ft-lbs increase? TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 20:03
|
|
|
It's cheap, like $50.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 20:39
|
|
|
I'm in Canada, so it's harder to find. I'll keep my eyes open. I believe I'd need gaskets + EGR tube + some modifications for an O2 sensor if I'm reading things correctly?
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 20:48
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:So, now that the rollbar, sparco buckets, and 6 points are in, I'm torn on what to do next. The plan eventually is: Cant wait to hear what you think of it. This is exactly what I want on my car.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 21:03
|
|
|
Sadi posted:Cant wait to hear what you think of it. This is exactly what I want on my car. I drove a friends setup that is exactly that, except on an NA. I can confirm it is incredible. Honestly it's what sold me on spending that much money on suspension. Turn in was precise, accurate, balanced, there was so much feedback, it was great. Basically what convinced me that blowing that much money on suspension was worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:So, now that the rollbar, sparco buckets, and 6 points are in, I'm torn on what to do next. The plan eventually is: I'd consider doing all of the suspension bushings, they're also pretty cheap but the labor is intense. Might make more sense to install those and the coils at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 21:31
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:So, now that the rollbar, sparco buckets, and 6 points are in, I'm torn on what to do next. The plan eventually is: I have that suspension setup now, except I have the RB hollow swaybar with the thicker wall. I'd HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend the Xidas, the make my car for sure. FCM's ride great,but for performance the Xidas can't be beaten. That being said the ASTs swallow up(lolz) the 700/400 spring-rates, rides better than my dad's 91 with FM 2.5 suspension(KYBs). I would consider getting the support blocks with your sway-bar, otherwise that bigass sway ends up flexing the mounting brackets around. Bushings is a great way to freshing up the car, but it's pretty drat time consuming. You'll pick up the most speed/fun with the wheels and tires. I ran the 15x9s and 225 RS3s with my stock r-package suspension for awhile, it was a lot of fun. Edit: I see you've driven on the setup, I didn't need to say anything lol. flier129 fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jan 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2013 21:55
|
|
|
Any idea what suspension this is? He just calls it Flyin Miata Improved Handling. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/3573992685.html
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2013 01:51
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Any idea what suspension this is? He just calls it Flyin Miata Improved Handling. Looks like KYB AGX adjustables with FM springs and top hats.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2013 02:06
|
|
|
Suggestions where to find a 01+ Header for my 99nb?
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2013 02:07
|
|
|
They're pretty bad shocks, arguably worse than the factory ones.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2013 02:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 09:17 |
|
|
the spyder posted:Suggestions where to find a 01+ Header for my 99nb? I can sell you mine, but shipping is not going to be cheap.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2013 02:43
|
|