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Cakefool posted:Someone repost that melted Volvo valve cover, gets me every time. On the Volvos it's actually more of a cam cover since the cover houses the top half of the camshaft bearings  and therefore uses no gasket (only anaerobic sealer)They're all aluminum, IIRC it was the coil sight cover that melted on the Volvo. Still an awesome picture nonetheless
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Jan 27, 2013 16:28
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Here you go: Source. "Out of Coolant Error! Redo From Start." It's the cosmetic coil cover, yeah. The metal valve cover is visible above and below it. As far as I know Volvo valve covers are still all metal, the idea of a plastic one seems... weird. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jan 27, 2013 |
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Jan 27, 2013 17:20
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I'm so tempted to send that to my dad, make him worry what I've done to his car  Except for the whole heart attack thing.
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Jan 27, 2013 20:18
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You Am I posted:So? If the manifolds were mounted the other way, it would be the exhaust copping the damage. Can't see why the intake taking the damage to be any worse, either way the car is hosed. I hit a deer a few years ago in my Zetec Focus (front exhaust/rear intake) and the top half of the radiator got pushed back into the header. Aside from some plastic from the radiator fan melting upon contact with the hot exhaust there wasn't any actual damage to the header/cat or engine (still runs fine today.) Regarding the metal vs plastic valve cover debate, my Focus uses a plastic cover, and AFAIK every Ford I4 since the early 2000s has as well - the 2.5 Duratec in my company car (2012 Fusion) at my last job used a plastic cover. Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 27, 2013 |
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Jan 27, 2013 20:59
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What's bizarre is that the toyota passenger cars still use alloy covers (well they did as of early 2011), yet the diesel vehicles like hilux, land cruiser, hiace etc have plastic covers.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:06
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Geoj posted:I hit a deer a few years ago in my Zetec Focus (front exhaust/rear intake) and the top half of the radiator got pushed back into the header. Aside from some plastic from the radiator fan melting upon contact with the hot exhaust there wasn't any actual damage to the header/cat or engine (still runs fine today.) The SPI had an aluminum valve cover.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:27
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Godholio posted:The SPI had an aluminum valve cover. ...and also dates back to the early 80s.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:37
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Re: PVC Intake Chat Who says you can't use PVC for proper intakes? rcman50166 posted:Update (finally): This was from the now dying SAE thread. To be fair, it was not meant to be anything but a prototype.
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Jan 28, 2013 02:08
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Is that a CBR600 engine?
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Jan 28, 2013 02:19
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The 2.0 dates to 1997. The top end is physically different from the 1.9 and smaller that go back further.
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Jan 28, 2013 02:38
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Slavvy posted:Is that a CBR600 engine? Why yes, yes it is. More specifically a 2007 model.
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Jan 28, 2013 02:39
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rcman50166 posted:Re: PVC Intake Chat Haha, we make Venturi flow meters for use in systems, pretty much exactly like that.
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Jan 28, 2013 04:10
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rcman50166 posted:Re: PVC Intake Chat Science is fun!
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Jan 28, 2013 08:46
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Slavvy posted:What's bizarre is that the toyota passenger cars still use alloy covers (well they did as of early 2011), yet the diesel vehicles like hilux, land cruiser, hiace etc have plastic covers.
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Jan 28, 2013 08:54
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Ferremit posted:My 100 series has a plastic cover over the valves, with a layer of foam sandwiched between it and a steel outer cover! The reasoning behind this was thus: plastic cam cover is cheaper and lighter and better, so we'll use that>need foam to silence those tappets and injectors because the market is moving upward for landcruisers and people expect it!>poo poo better put a steel cover over this, it might get damaged if anyone uses this thing seriously!
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Jan 28, 2013 09:07
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Slavvy posted:The reasoning behind this was thus: plastic cam cover is cheaper and lighter and better, so we'll use that>need foam to silence those tappets and injectors because the market is moving upward for landcruisers and people expect it!>poo poo better put a steel cover over this, it might get damaged if anyone uses this thing seriously! I think it is more like: The price of plastic glued to steel is less than a thick steel one itself, and it still looks nice from the outside. Occam's Discount Razor - the simplest explanation usually triumphs, as long as it is the cheapest.
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Jan 28, 2013 10:34
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[edit] Wrong thread.
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Jan 29, 2013 07:03
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The LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6, LS7, L99, L92 and all of its normally aspirated family use plastic intakes.
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Jan 29, 2013 07:33
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Stolen shamelessly from PYF
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Jan 29, 2013 08:01
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Don't tell anyone but AFR, Edelbrock, and others make performance plastic intake manifolds as well.14 INCH GRANDPA posted:Stolen shamelessly from PYF Holy hell. Pissed off ex?
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Jan 29, 2013 08:02
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Devyl posted:Don't tell anyone but AFR, Edelbrock, and others make performance plastic intake manifolds as well. picked off axe 
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Jan 29, 2013 08:06
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Those are just speedholes. They make the car go faster.
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Jan 29, 2013 14:16
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Armacham posted:Those are just speedholes. They make the car go faster. If we're going to be stealing lines from the PYF thread, I'm gonna go with "It used to be manual but they installed an auto-mattock"
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Jan 29, 2013 17:38
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Does everyone know what time it is?  
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Jan 30, 2013 03:18
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Binford tools is proud to present- ...oh.
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Jan 30, 2013 03:41
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So does that mean the car is ready to stop being an unreliable bitch and function normally?
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Jan 30, 2013 04:00
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Geirskogul posted:Binford tools is proud to present- 
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Jan 30, 2013 07:21
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Root Bear posted:Does everyone know what time it is? I was hoping peanut butter jelly time!
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Jan 30, 2013 18:09
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I get extremely paranoid when the temp needle goes a single millimeter above "normal."
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Jan 30, 2013 18:22
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ultimateforce posted:I get extremely paranoid when the temp needle goes a single millimeter above "normal." You'd be happy with a GM. They're just dummy gauges in the recent ones. By the time they go over 'middle', your head is (likely) already warped. They work real well for finding stuck-open thermostats, though.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:23
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ultimateforce posted:I get extremely paranoid when the temp needle goes a single millimeter above "normal." Driving a BMW has done this to me as well.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:39
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Rover makes it even worse. Its just waiting for the next set of head gaskets on the engine.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:49
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I've never seen the coolant temp needle go anywhere above 90°C on the gauge in my car, but the oil temp needle goes all over the place depending on how hard I drive. It's nice to know that it works. Actually, I kinda like how the normal operating temperature range is marked out on the gauge. So oil needs to be between 90°C and 140°C, while the coolant needs to be between 70°C and 90°C. 
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Jan 30, 2013 20:21
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I think there's a layer of abstraction between the needles / lights and the related sensors on the Fairlane but the temperature gauge has definitely been calibrated so normal range is acceptable more or less but as soon as the needle crosses that line in to the H lands you're poo poo out of luck. But there are two kinds of hot. The needle getting up in there and when the light at the top of the H illuminates. That light is usually accompanied by a bone chilling alarm tone and the roar of coolant violently escaping form somewhere. I have to go for a drive today. Hopefully there won't be any mechanical failures. I always do a pre-drive check. I'll be giving it it's first hopefully problem free run on petrol in a long time.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:03
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Rover makes it even worse. Its just waiting for the next set of head gaskets on the engine. I've popped heads with the gauge sitting dead. loving. center. as soon as the gauge gets 2/3s of its sweep there is *something* under the hood that is already boiling its tits off. Gauranfuckingteed. I *really* hate land rover temp gauges. also BN: the first white bar is 170* Found that out this morning.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:25
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ultimateforce posted:I get extremely paranoid when the temp needle goes a single millimeter above "normal." I blame you for the trend of gauges which always point to a single reading no matter what the actual reading is! Well, OK.. maybe not you but instead those who would take their car into the dealer to complain about it overheating when the gauge goes ever so slightly up when they are running A/C at idle on a hot day. My VW temperature gauge stays pointed at 190F when the actual coolant temp can be anywhere from 175-210 (that's as high as I've seen it go since getting my scangauge mounted, I'm sure Texas summers will make new records). That is pulling off of the OBD-II connector so the engine knows the right temperature but just isn't showing it 
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Jan 30, 2013 21:51
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cursedshitbox posted:also BN: the first white bar is 170* Found that out this morning. Its been so loving cold I am pretty sure I could run it out of anti freeze and still drive around just fine. Seriously, this wind and poo poo sucks.
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Jan 30, 2013 21:56
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cursedshitbox posted:I've popped heads with the gauge sitting dead. loving. center. Anything is better than the idiot lights in my impala. All you get is a red light and smoke, plus the smell of coolant through the vents. There is NO warning.
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Jan 30, 2013 22:24
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I had a caddy hearse with 2 gauges. speedo and fuel. It had the same drat "overheating" lamp.
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Jan 30, 2013 22:32
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This picture here is exactly the same dashboard I have, only in the color that I plan on painting my someday. 
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Jan 30, 2013 22:49
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