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Dick Diggler posted:Are any of the cheap harbor freight multimeters any good? I'm probably only going to use it once in a blue moon so it doesn't have to be real durable.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:35
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Dick Diggler posted:Are any of the cheap harbor freight multimeters any good? I'm probably only going to use it once in a blue moon so it doesn't have to be real durable. I use a $3 red one for everything automotive, fuse or home related.
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Feb 1, 2013 22:39
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Cool. Thanks fellas
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Feb 1, 2013 22:46
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Dick Diggler posted:Are any of the cheap harbor freight multimeters any good? I'm probably only going to use it once in a blue moon so it doesn't have to be real durable. Definitely worth "free with coupon" for most uses in the home and garage.
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Feb 1, 2013 23:21
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Hypnolobster posted:Who's used the dale adams bone creeper? I've always used either nothing, or the standard 6 wheel creepers with the little 1 1/2" wheels that suck. My garage floor is cracked and not great, and the driveway is much worse. I usually end up with the nothing option because it's easier to just wear a junk shirt and a pair of bibs than to get all frustrated with a standard lovely creeper. They're awesome. A guy in my old shop ran over one with an IHC ProStar and it was still repairable. Plus they're comfy and they'll even roll pretty decent on dirt or gravel as long as it's not too soft.
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Feb 2, 2013 00:37
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Meant to post this earlier but HF has their $25 3 ton jack stands on sale for $13 (pair). I've never had any problems with mine and I think I'll pick up another set for redundancy. In def in the same boat as tool cabinet organizer guy. Fianc bought me a massive 3 part set of drawers and I've come to realize I don't have enough tools to fill it. 
Shachi fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 3, 2013 10:59
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Does anyone have any experience/opinions on wideband air/fuel ratio stand alone setups? I am considering this one: http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Moto...=I2J9F7CSND977U I want it to tune the 1976 BMW 2002 I just bought. It was swapped to the 2002 tii mechanical fuel injection, and I think it might have a cam, and I want to make sure the fuel delivery is correct. I can't think of a better way (sniff the exhaust and look at the plugs I guess?).
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Feb 4, 2013 14:46
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What about using a Colortune?
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Feb 4, 2013 14:56
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InitialDave posted:What about using a Colortune? I had never heard of Colortune before, thanks for the tip! It is neat, but it doesn't look to helpful for off-idle tuning. At $70, I think I would prefer real-time hard numbers (unless there is some issue with the wideband standalone systems).
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Feb 4, 2013 16:21
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CatBus posted:Does anyone have any experience/opinions on wideband air/fuel ratio stand alone setups? I am considering this one: I installed one in my Scirocco.  I had an Innovate LC-1 on my old Scirocco with Megasquirt. When I got this new Scirocco, I installed the MTX-L wideband with the CIS system, using the MTX-L's narrowband simulated output. What I saw on the gauge thoroughly impressed me - the Bosch CIS was pretty damned good at maintaining a 14.7 air fuel ratio. Tuning with it was laughably easy. Warm up the car, and make adjustments to the airflow metering plate. Done. Then I installed Megasquirt again. The Bosch LSU-2 sensor itself with the correct mk4 VW connector for the innovate is fairly cheap from the local auto parts store. Get one for a 2004 VW New Beetle 1.8T.
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Feb 4, 2013 16:35
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CatBus posted:Does anyone have any experience/opinions on wideband air/fuel ratio stand alone setups? I am considering this one: I bought the AEM UEGO because it doesn't need calibration. The innovate has "ability to calibrate" as a feature, but to me, thats a failure. The manual for the innovate says "must be calibrated often" and "must be in free air" in that you have to take the sensor out. Pass.
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Feb 4, 2013 20:46
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blindjoe posted:I bought the AEM UEGO because it doesn't need calibration. The innovate has "ability to calibrate" as a feature, but to me, thats a failure. The manual for the innovate says "must be calibrated often" and "must be in free air" in that you have to take the sensor out. Pass. I helped a close friend install a Ford Mustang 5.0L EFI and all in his 1970 Ford Bronco. Since his eventual plans involved either supercharging or turbocharging, I urged him to install a AEM UEGO and a fuel pressure gauge. He used it to identify 3 major problems with his installation right off the bat. First a major vacuum leak from an unseen/forgotten open port that could not be seen without mirrors and flashlights. Then he identified a fueling issue using WB02 together with the fuel pressure gauge. It turned out to be the custom fuel pump pushed too close to the bottom of the custom tank blocking the inlet/sock. Lastly it along with the fuel pressure gauge identified a bad adjustable fuel pressure regulator spring. Kirban sent him another FPR right away and gave him the option of returning the other in an included prepaid pouch on the honor system. The use of the WB02 for a few months intimately acquainted him with the normal behavior of the fuel ratio under varying engine operating parameters. He recently installed a larger set of injectors, a C&L MAF, and a Kenne Bell supercharger. It was invaluable there as well as it allowed him, without a dyno, to tune the motor using nothing more than the MAF, AFPR, and an FMU.
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Feb 4, 2013 22:53
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Hmm, lots of good info to digest. This isn't an EFI, it is a mechanical injection, so some of the good uses may be negated. Blindjoe's point about the calibration is interesting, and I will check into that. It sounds like there are some potential worthwhile benefits to a wideband system. I just have to decide if it is worth the $170 vs just looking at the plugs (it probably is).
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Feb 4, 2013 23:24
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I just got done cleaning a bunch of poo poo out of the garage, which means it's time to get some proper tools so I can do some of my own maintenance. I am in desperate need of a floor jack and some jack stands. What brands should I be looking at? What brands should I avoid? I need tools that are going to last me a long time through fairly infrequent use (ie every 3000 miles for oil, when my brake pads go to poo poo, etc). Edit: Also, I'm on a bit of a budget. Also, in case it matters, the only cars these tools will be touching are a Mazda Tribute, a Chevy Blazer, and a Nissan Rogue. Luminous Cow fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 23:33
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Luminous Cow posted:Edit: Also, I'm on a bit of a budget. It'd help to know what you expect to use them on. I have the $60 Harbor Freight 1.5ton SUPAR SPEED SPESHIAL, and it works better for me than the 2.5 ton 'pump till it hurts' that I replaced.. and a pair of $15 3 ton stands (currently $13)..
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Feb 4, 2013 23:36
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West SAAB Story posted:It'd help to know what you expect to use them on. I have the $60 Harbor Freight 1.5ton SUPAR SPEED SPESHIAL, and it works better for me than the 2.5 ton 'pump till it hurts' that I replaced.. and a pair of $15 3 ton stands (currently $13).. I just edited, but Mazda Tribute, a Chevy Blazer, and a Nissan Rogue
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Feb 4, 2013 23:37
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If you're working on SUVs, check where your jacking points are, as really cheap, small jacks can simply run out of height if you need to jack up from the chassis rather than under an axle. Don't forget to take the droop of the suspension into account in addition to the height at rest.
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Feb 4, 2013 23:49
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As mentioned, see how high you need your jack point. The el-cheapos only go up to 18.5"-19.5". If you need more, the only half decent HF one is not going to do it.
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Feb 4, 2013 23:56
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I had no idea how stupidly difficult it is to find specific information for a Tribute/Escape. I can't find a solid number for anything. I've found plenty of instructional videos and poorly typed posts on forums, but no specific info. The only solid things I know are where the jack points are. So basically I have no idea how high I'll need to jack the damned Tribute, and have found that a lot of people just use the scissor jack that comes with the car. As far as the Blazer, it apparently needs 20+ inches. I keep seeing 21 inchers recommended. The Rogue is low to the ground, and regular old 18 inch jacks are fine. Honestly, I'm about to say screw it to the Blazer, as it looks like the only one that needs a bigger jack. The Tribute isn't that big, and it's the car that's important, because it's mine.
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Feb 5, 2013 02:10
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Luminous Cow posted:The Tribute isn't that big, and it's the car that's important, because it's mine. It looks like it's not that big of a deal. If a 4x4 gives you extra clearance, and you have decent stands, I wouldn't sweat it. poo poo, the new one only goes 15". Mine goes to 19". Nevermind. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 02:38
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Luminous Cow posted:The Tribute isn't that big
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Feb 5, 2013 11:15
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I need a place to spray paint, but I live in an apartment and the weather outside is a cold turd with a windy turd on top and a wet turd on top of that. The basement I have access to is dusty and very much non-ventilated. I could paint down there, but lose about a billion brain cells in the process and end up with a bad finish due to dust, as well. That leaves the laundry loft, which is a definite no-no. People don't want flecks of paint on their clothes for some reason. So yeah. Where to spray paint during the winter?
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Feb 5, 2013 17:53
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Luminous Cow posted:I had no idea how stupidly difficult it is to find specific information for a Tribute/Escape. I can't find a solid number for anything. I've found plenty of instructional videos and poorly typed posts on forums, but no specific info. The only solid things I know are where the jack points are. So basically I have no idea how high I'll need to jack the damned Tribute, and have found that a lot of people just use the scissor jack that comes with the car. As far as the Blazer, it apparently needs 20+ inches. I keep seeing 21 inchers recommended. The Rogue is low to the ground, and regular old 18 inch jacks are fine. Honestly, I'm about to say screw it to the Blazer, as it looks like the only one that needs a bigger jack. The Tribute isn't that big, and it's the car that's important, because it's mine. Get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/Low-Profile-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-25-Ton-Heavy-Duty-Steel-68049.html Then get a few 12" sections of 4x4  You'll be able to handle anything that clears a speed bump and passes your state's bumper height restrictions. Grab four jack stands instead of just two, it will allow you to do stuff like transmission and differential fluid changes and makes four corner work like suspension and brakes much easier.
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Feb 5, 2013 20:00
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 They finally turned up. After the loving courier couldnt be arsed to drive up the hill to my work and made some bullshit story bout us being closed at 2pm in the afternoon... Havent used any in anger yet, but drat this package has travelled- Washington to San Fran to Honolulu to Sydney to Adelaide to my house!
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Feb 6, 2013 11:15
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drat, you think for buying all that they coulda threw in a shop radio for you.
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Feb 7, 2013 00:25
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Anyone have a botique-ish brand for 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet/socket sets without hilarious pricing? http://www.amazon.com/Teng-T1424-Socket-Metric-Piece/dp/B004UEHCMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360192495&sr=8-1&keywords=Teng+T1424 Kinda liked that but you can't get them in the US.
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Feb 7, 2013 00:30
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Does anyone know of some good crimpers for large gauge wires (down to 1awg)? If it's available for rent then even better since all the pairs I'm seeing are in the $200 range. I'd be willing to pay up to $100ish, but $200 for a tool I'm only planning on using once is a bit much.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:13
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Ferremit posted:
I got the cordless impact for Christmas. Feels nice, my first job is going to be an LCA on my WRX. One bolt is 185ft/lbs, so it'll get a chance to cut it's teeth. I'm going to have air for back up, just in case.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:13
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Does anyone know of some good crimpers for large gauge wires (down to 1awg)? Check your local area for "tool supply rentals"
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Feb 7, 2013 01:15
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Luminous Cow posted:I just got done cleaning a bunch of poo poo out of the garage, which means it's time to get some proper tools so I can do some of my own maintenance. I am in desperate need of a floor jack and some jack stands. What brands should I be looking at? What brands should I avoid? I need tools that are going to last me a long time through fairly infrequent use (ie every 3000 miles for oil, when my brake pads go to poo poo, etc). When it comes to jacks (especially when you need good lift height), don't discount old used stuff.  We picked up that big Viking 5 ton for $15, gave it a $40 rebuild and it's awesome. The 2 ton behind it is my dad's from some time in the 70's. We've got a gigantic long frame Weaver 5 ton in the barn, too. I think that one was $20. Old jacks are cheap, and have a LOT of lift height. Here's a size reference for the big Viking jack.  As for stands, get stands that are bigger than you need. The lowest height on a 3 or 4 ton jackstand isn't very high at all, and they're stronger, bigger and more stable. You want this design:  and not the terrible pin-style stands. Pick up some jackstand pads/adapters/covers if you can find them as well. Some cars don't do well with the steep angle and you'll have the stand sitting on floorpan instead of jack points. 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:31
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So, coming hat in hand looking for advice because I am a right the gently caress dumbass. I took the TPMS sensor out of my bike wheel to change the battery since I am doing the tires. They typically last about 4-5 years on my bike so I figured I might as well since I have the rubber off. Took it out, had a gently caress of a time splitting the case apart. But, I percerviered and succeeded. Only to realize there was a screw under the label.  I swear, I felt for one because I have done similar gently caress ups like that before, and didn't feel anything.. so I kept prying.  ANYHOW, I now have it apart (hope I didn't gently caress it, PCB seems OK) but I need to get it back together. I need away to keep the two halves together without flying apart on the inside of the rim. Thoughts? I'm thinking, if I can do it, a slightly larger dia screw that will (hopefully) clear the PCB but still bite in the bottom half of the case. Maybe a couple of dabs of silicone around the edge as well, that way if 5 years from now I need to remove it, I should be able to by cutting the silicone and unscrewing. Other ideas? It's a $200 sensor so I'd rather not buy a new one (the screw is top of frame). Edit: I know this isn't exactly the best thread but I thought it wasn't thread worthy on its own and this was closest. slidebite fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:37
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Just glue the snapped-off divot of plastic back in place?
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Feb 7, 2013 01:40
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Epoxy into the messed up hole, let it dry and drill it out to the point where the threads of the screw can re-bite works for me. A small drill press and a drill press vice help a lot so the bit doesn't just wander. Or stick one of those really big pieces of heat shrink tubing around the whole thing. e: I didn't see the broken off piece, I thought it just pulled the screw out of the bottom. Glue that piece back and and then epoxy/drill, or use a longer screw and a washer that grabs more of the case. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:41
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KozmoNaut posted:I need a place to spray paint, but I live in an apartment and the weather outside is a cold turd with a windy turd on top and a wet turd on top of that. The basement I have access to is dusty and very much non-ventilated. I could paint down there, but lose about a billion brain cells in the process and end up with a bad finish due to dust, as well. Use the basement and buy a respirator. Is there a window? Buy a box fan and some plastic drop clothes and you can create a wind tunnel up to the window and keep the bulk of the fumes out.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:42
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slidebite posted:Other ideas? It's a $200 sensor so I'd rather not buy a new one (the screw is top of frame). What about just stacking washers?
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Feb 7, 2013 01:43
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InitialDave posted:Just glue the snapped-off divot of plastic back in place? I could, but it is very small and worry about the strength due to the centrifugal force. Not a crazy idea though. Hypnolobster posted:Epoxy into the messed up hole, let it dry and drill it out to the point where the threads of the screw can re-bite works for me. I've done that on things. A small drill press and a drill press vice help a lot so the bit doesn't just wander. I like the way you think. The heatshrink tubing is a good idea, but I might have a tough time finding it big enough. The battery is a CR2032 and about the size of a quarter. However, I like the thought. That way, even if it were to fail, the tube will keep it together.
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Feb 7, 2013 01:45
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Does anyone know of some good crimpers for large gauge wires (down to 1awg)? If it's available for rent then even better since all the pairs I'm seeing are in the $200 range. I'd be willing to pay up to $100ish, but $200 for a tool I'm only planning on using once is a bit much. Try Harbor Freight's 8 ton... I have it. It's not the best, and the dies are pretty poo poo (don't expect the gauges marked on them to be anywhere near accurate, use the one that looks right, then go down a size if it doesn't seem to crimp tightly enough, and you'll have to rotate the terminal 60 degrees and crimp it again to get rid of some flashing/ridges it leaves on the crimped portion, but it works for crimping battery cables for me.
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Feb 7, 2013 02:09
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slidebite posted:I could, but it is very small and worry about the strength due to the centrifugal force. Not a crazy idea though. There are probably easier options than heat shrink, but if you go that route, Insultab HS-105 is probably the standard very big line of 2:1 heatshrink. Gets up to something like 4". Sort of hard to find in short lengths, though. The assorted kits usually only go up to 1" or 3/4"
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Feb 7, 2013 02:13
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Fill that little cylindrical area with some JB Weld, wait for it to dry completely, then drill a new hole through the center. kastein posted:Try Harbor Freight's 8 ton... I have it. It's not the best, and the dies are pretty poo poo (don't expect the gauges marked on them to be anywhere near accurate, use the one that looks right, then go down a size if it doesn't seem to crimp tightly enough, and you'll have to rotate the terminal 60 degrees and crimp it again to get rid of some flashing/ridges it leaves on the crimped portion, but it works for crimping battery cables for me. I was going to give those a go if I couldn't find anything better. I have a 10 ton hydraulic press, perhaps I could use it with one of the anvil/hammer type crimpers?
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Feb 7, 2013 02:27
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Does anyone know of some good crimpers for large gauge wires (down to 1awg)? If it's available for rent then even better since all the pairs I'm seeing are in the $200 range. I'd be willing to pay up to $100ish, but $200 for a tool I'm only planning on using once is a bit much. Harbor freight sells this: http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html Decent reviews, but never tried it for myself.
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Feb 7, 2013 05:27
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