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I recently purchased a 2005 Honda Accord LX Coupe(No Nav). I am seeking out options for getting some ipod integration. Preferably without getting an aftermarket head unit. The person who previously owned the Accord already drilled a hole and has a wire for a navigation system located below the factory radio. I was hoping it would just be a standard Aux plug and would work with my iPod. I was wrong. After browsing Crutchfield, I stumbled across this. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? $150 seems a bit steep.
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Feb 6, 2013 04:37
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It's only steep because it's far more than just an audio in. It fully interfaces with the car so you can hide the ipod and control it all from the head unit, with song display and steering wheel controls if you have them. Most interfaces that do that are around that price, and from reading the reviews it's probably worth it. If you want to just add an aux in, you have to find some sort of small harness that patches in to a cd changer plug or something in the back of the head unit. Incidentally I love reading the reviews for things like these because if it's a good product you can kind of tell that the people giving it low ratings are really just morons. Like one guy rated it low because when he pulled the bezel off the stereo he dropped the clips. And one guy clearly ruined the connector by not being careful, so he's bitching about how he has to jam the connector together a couple times to make it work. Everyone else says it's awesome.
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Feb 6, 2013 15:41
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I am quite curious as to how the controls would work with my stock radio. There are no 'folder' buttons. The only controls that would make sense are 'seek' and 'tune'. Not sure how I would select playlists and artists with controls like that. Maybe I will go to a local car audio shop and inquire how the controls would work with my exact car. For $150, I could probably get a pretty nice aftermarket head unit with iPod integration. I just don't like the idea of aftermarket. All the installations I have seen for the 2005 Accord look pretty ugly. You either need to buy a whole new dash plate or have both stock and aftermarket installed.
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Feb 6, 2013 17:50
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So Pioneer's AppRadio 2 is $150 on Crutchfield now. I've heard great things and I've heard awful things. I have an iPhone4 and will be switching to Android later this year. Any thoughts on this headunit?
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Feb 6, 2013 19:02
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blk posted:So Pioneer's AppRadio 2 is $150 on Crutchfield now. I've heard great things and I've heard awful things. I have an iPhone4 and will be switching to Android later this year. Any thoughts on this headunit? Link? I posted about the DA100 I installed in my car not too long ago. The main issue is that there's a limited number of apps that will work with the touchscreen interface, everything else is locked out unless you root/jailbreak your phone and buy an app that will allow you to mirror your phone. It's also a little slim on features (no aux, cd, dvd, 2 pre outs) but it works for my needs. I have a back up camera installed, the BT mic is in the factory location, ipod and MHL cables have been run and the external gps antenna hidden. Sonys mirror link does everything that the AppRadio 2 should out of the box but it only works with the SGSIII.
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Feb 6, 2013 19:20
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blk posted:So Pioneer's AppRadio 2 is $150 on Crutchfield now. I've heard great things and I've heard awful things. I have an iPhone4 and will be switching to Android later this year. Any thoughts on this headunit? That's the AppRadio, not the AppRadio 2. Don't be confused by Pioneer's bizarre model numbering system. The DA-02 is the AppRadio; the DA-100 is the AppRadio 2. If it works with what devices you have right now, and what you plan to buy (the AppRadio does not have Android support), and has the features you need for the audio you want, then awesome. But it's priced that way because it's pretty barebones and Pioneer's basically given a giant "gently caress you" to AppRadio owners with regard to continued support. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 20:19
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Molten Llama posted:That's the AppRadio, not the AppRadio 2. Don't be confused by Pioneer's bizarre model numbering system. The DA-02 is the AppRadio; the DA-100 is the AppRadio 2. Ah, gotcha - thanks!
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Feb 6, 2013 23:16
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Noni posted:2001 Honda Accord DX, Pioneer DEH-4400HD Here you go.
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Feb 7, 2013 02:58
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Thanks! Just bought it. I did contact Pioneer, but they offered the part for $15 plus $10 shipping. Oh well, it's not their fault.
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Feb 7, 2013 15:53
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Geoj posted:Wire an amplifier directly into the car's wiring harness, and then plug the tablet into the amplifier with a 3.5mm stereo to RCA cable. Depending on how much you spend on the amp you could actually have better sound quality than with a headunit of the same price. My head unit in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee is dead (it's not the factory head unit; the previous owner installed it), and since I'm only interested in listening to music/podcasts on my iPhone I thought I might try my hand at just plugging my iPhone directly into my speakers. I know a little about electronics but haven't ever replaced a head unit in a car or anything. I'd like to learn more about car audio in general, so I thought this would be a good project. If I were to attempt this, what kinds of things do I need to be aware of with respect to wiring up the amp? I've seen some posts mentioning trying to match up the RMS on the speakers to the output on the amp, but how do I figure out what the RMS on my speakers is? Do you have any recommendations for a cheap amp? I don't want to spend a ton because I could just buy a decent head unit if I were going to drop a bunch of cash on this, and to be honest I don't really care about the sound quality at all since I'm mostly just listening to podcasts anyway.
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Feb 7, 2013 22:22
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davertron posted:My head unit in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee is dead (it's not the factory head unit; the previous owner installed it), and since I'm only interested in listening to music/podcasts on my iPhone I thought I might try my hand at just plugging my iPhone directly into my speakers. I know a little about electronics but haven't ever replaced a head unit in a car or anything. I'd like to learn more about car audio in general, so I thought this would be a good project. When you consider the fact that a basic head unit that will do what you need is probably $60 - $80 and will drop right in with an hour's worth of (easy) work, doing all this runaround poo poo trying to reinvent the wheel for far reduced functionality just isn't worth it. Just get a replacement HU and be done with it, IMO. If not spending money is your goal, this is the cheapest / easiest way to do it, plus it'll make the car a lot easier to sell on when you're done with it. e: installing an aftermarket amp will require running all new wires (power, ground, turn-on, speakers), probably all new speakers (the factory crap in that car is probably good for about 15w RMS or so) and running a feed cable to the amp somewhere accessible. You may be able to limp by with OEM speakers on an extremely low power amp, but you'll likely pop one or more of them as soon as you turn it up to get over expressway road noise. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 00:37
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Black88GTA posted:When you consider the fact that a basic head unit that will do what you need is probably $60 - $80 and will drop right in with an hour's worth of (easy) work, doing all this runaround poo poo trying to reinvent the wheel for far reduced functionality just isn't worth it. Just get a replacement HU and be done with it, IMO. Yeah, I had a feeling "buy a new HU" was going to be the answer  I was hoping I could rip out my current HU, buy a cheap amp and just wire it together in a couple hours, but I didn't realize I would have to run new wires etc.I'm not really concerned about reselling it because I plan to drive it into the ground. Thanks for the advice, I'll probably just end up picking up a HU with bluetooth and be done with it.
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Feb 8, 2013 04:13
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davertron posted:Yeah, I had a feeling "buy a new HU" was going to be the answer To be fair, you could get away with wiring the outputs of the amp directly to the existing speaker wires in the dash harness behind the existing head unit, but this is a really goddamn ghetto way to do it, plus you'd have to either put the amp somewhere in the dash  or extend the wires to wherever you decide to mount it. No way around running a new power / ground wire though, even the shittiest aftermarket amps require at least 12 gauge wire.
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 04:32
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Black88GTA posted:To be fair, you could get away with wiring the outputs of the amp directly to the existing speaker wires in the dash harness behind the existing head unit, but this is a really goddamn ghetto way to do it, plus you'd have to either put the amp somewhere in the dash I'm not opposed to a ghetto solution but I would like to avoid blowing out the cheap factory speakers and then having to replace those and this turning into a much more expensive/time-consuming project than just buying a head unit.
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Feb 8, 2013 14:17
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This isn't so much a question as much as wishful thinking - but gently caress I wish this was available 13 years ago when I cut the dash of my GMC.
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Feb 8, 2013 23:32
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I bought a 2001 pre facelift Honda Civic Type-R about two years ago which is totally great and I'm very much in love. THAT BEING SAID.... The stock stereo sucks and I want to replace it. The dashboard has space for a double DINN stereo but if I'm honest I've not got a clue about what a good DD stereo is. I've got about £300 ($500) to spend on a new one and there's a few things I want to get out of it. I've got a Galaxy SII and not an iPhone or iPod so ideally I would like a stereo that supports Bluetooth audio streaming and hands free. I'm also an unashamed gadget whore so it would be pretty great it the stereo could do cool stuff too (I know that's a really vague and somewhat childish statement to make.... but I guess I'm childish) but I'm not too bothered about GPS as I've got a Tom Tom. Playing MP3 DVDs would be a bonus, as would a full colour touch screen. Since you guys have a lot more experience with cars and by extension car stereos can you help me out?
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Feb 10, 2013 08:01
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Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 The price is right, and I don't really care if the quality is garbage as long as sound comes out since I pretty much only listen to podcasts anyway. Could I just wire that directly into my current speakers if I removed my head-unit? I know I still need to get power to it somehow (running a new wire, or maybe taking the current PS and re-wiring it with a cig lighter instead, etc.) but otherwise this kind of thing seems like it would work.
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Feb 10, 2013 17:23
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davertron posted:Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 You could wire it into TWO of your speakers. Most head units are 4 channel to run the read deck/back seat speakers. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it is a complete and total hack job that will take some time to make work (extending speaker lines, mounting, etc) so unless you value your time at absolutely nothing and have the wire and connectors laying around......but a new (or used) HU.
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Feb 10, 2013 17:27
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Chaostime posted:I bought a 2001 pre facelift Honda Civic Type-R about two years ago which is totally great and I'm very much in love. I don't know what the UK equivalent is but Crutchfield.com is a good place to do research. Anything that has Bluetooth will most likely do handsfree and A2DP as well. Video might push you past your budget though, JVC offerings for example: http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/category.php?cat2=12 http://www.jvcmobile.co.uk/category.php?cat2=13 davertron posted:Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 http://jalopnik.com/5298493/confound-thieves-with-a-camouflaged-car-stereo-for-under-20 Real answer: They have a similar style amp for motorcycles that run on 12V. Hook up the speaker leads, power, ground, and accessory off the factory stereo harness. Connect your aux cable and you're done. Or just buy a head unit off craigslist.
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Feb 10, 2013 17:53
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quote:http://jalopnik.com/5298493/confound-thieves-with-a-camouflaged-car-stereo-for-under-20 See I like that setup from jalopnik: cheap, not too much work, and it's its own security system Under $20 is exactly what I'm looking for.
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Feb 10, 2013 18:15
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I have a different kind of car audio question. What's the best application for a 122db loudspeaker I pulled off an old squad car? I've been looking at dash mounted siren modules, but those will probably get me in trouble and only make the siren noises. I'm throwing around the idea of installing some kind of synthesizer that could play a whole manner of sounds and at different volumes even. Basically I want to make my truck make farm animal noises in the city and otherwise mess with people because I am literally still a child and that still amuses me. Any thoughts?
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Feb 12, 2013 01:23
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DrPain posted:Any thoughts? Get an old CB, an amp, and use it as a PA?
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Feb 12, 2013 01:27
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I recently bought the following for a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee and have no clue how to install. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDCX896/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X896-CD-Receiver.html http://www.crutchfield.com/p_220SXV200/SiriusXM-SXV200V1-Satellite-Radio-Tuner.html Crutchfield said I needed this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1206502NAV/Chrysler-XSVI-6502-NAV-Chrysler-CAN-bus-Interface.html Any tips? The fitting and such, I can do. I just don't wanna blow a wire or some poo poo.
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Feb 13, 2013 05:33
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Hopefully you're certain about your vehicle's equipment. The Metra harness will only work if you do not have the Boston Acoustics package. As there's no badging for that package, many people don't realize they have it until they go and install an aftermarket stereo and get... nothing. When the sun's up, go pop your liftgate and look in the vents on the left (driver) side of the cargo area. If you see a silver box with some heat sink fins, you need to call Crutchfield back and get the CAN adapter harness instead. If you see a vast empty expanse, you should be fine with what you already ordered. Beyond that, just follow the instructions Crutchfield sends you. (You can actually download them as a PDF right now from your order details.) Their guides are well illustrated and easy to follow. There's nothing particularly tricky in your interior, and the adapter harness makes things basically foolproof assuming you can competently connect pairs of wires together. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Feb 13, 2013 |
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Feb 13, 2013 07:39
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davertron posted:Ok, I know the advice so far is "buy a new HU", but what if I picked this thing up? http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 I have that amp (or at least another Chinese amp that looks externally identical) plugged into alternatively a netbook or my phone in the garage. It actually sounds really drat good to me, especially for the price.
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Feb 14, 2013 00:17
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Tax refund should be showing up soon...ish. Which means it's time to rip out the stock garbage. Suggestions for component speakers for the front doors? They'll be going into a Saturn Ion coupe, so 5.25" or 6.5" speakers. Crutchfield doesn't seem to think I need shallow stuff, just a mount kit for most speakers along with an adapter harness to plug into the existing wiring. Ideally I'd like to spend around $150-$200. I had a MB Quart ONX216 set in my old car (didn't realize MB Quart was no longer made in Germany when I got them), and they were.. okay, a bit on the bright side at times. Something that sounds a bit better without breaking $200 would be awesome. I'm not that familiar with what's good and bad with speakers these days. Also going to have my Pioneer DEH-6400BT listed in SA-Mart shortly, so suggestions for a double DIN head unit with a removable face would be awesome. Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, and Clarion are all brands I'm familiar/comfortable with. About the same price range. The only real must-haves are full Bluetooth (including A2DP), customizable lighting, and subwoofer control (crossover, level, etc built into the HU).
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Feb 14, 2013 00:56
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Molten Llama posted:Hopefully you're certain about your vehicle's equipment. The Metra harness will only work if you do not have the Boston Acoustics package. As there's no badging for that package, many people don't realize they have it until they go and install an aftermarket stereo and get... nothing. You are fantastic.
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Feb 14, 2013 03:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have that amp (or at least another Chinese amp that looks externally identical) plugged into alternatively a netbook or my phone in the garage. It actually sounds really drat good to me, especially for the price. I'll be installing that amp this weekend, I'll post how it goes
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Feb 14, 2013 13:52
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So, does anyone have a car computer? I was browsing around mp3car and looking at the stuff they have, and it seems like I can build a custom setup to do what I want, it looks like there is a way to do Sirius, Navigation, and even radio if I felt so inclined. Am I crazy for thinking this might be a viable setup?
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Feb 15, 2013 05:19
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Porkchop Express posted:So, does anyone have a car computer? I was browsing around mp3car and looking at the stuff they have, and it seems like I can build a custom setup to do what I want, it looks like there is a way to do Sirius, Navigation, and even radio if I felt so inclined. Am I crazy for thinking this might be a viable setup? I used to run a computer in my truck about 10+ years ago. I ran what's called an SBC (Single Board Computer). It had spdif audio output that I had connected to a Sony XES setup. The SBC had an LCD output as well. I made an enclosure for the console that housed the 10.4" LCD. I just did audio and some video with it at the time but it worked well since there weren't a lot of options for playing MP3s at the time. On a separate, yet vintage audio note, I have a set of Image Dynamics IDQ5 Midrange speakers on Ebay if anyone is looking for some high end old school audio: http://r.ebay.com/p0MUUB
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Feb 16, 2013 00:22
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Porkchop Express posted:So, does anyone have a car computer? I was browsing around mp3car and looking at the stuff they have, and it seems like I can build a custom setup to do what I want, it looks like there is a way to do Sirius, Navigation, and even radio if I felt so inclined. Am I crazy for thinking this might be a viable setup? I've done it. I kept mine very simple though. I left the original radio/sat radio in the car and use the carputer for nav/music/etc. The music from the computer is piped through the original stereo via bluetooth. I really enjoyed putting it together but I enjoy playing with electronics so your experience may differ. Here is a picture. Car is a 2012 Ford Focus. 
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Feb 16, 2013 16:49
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Recommend me a subwoofer! The factory Bose sound system in my 2003 Escalade kind of sucks, so I'm doing a half rear end upgrade. Speakers are taken care of, but now it's time to do something about the factory sub. The problem is, I need something with rather specific requirements. Losing cargo space is not an option, so I managed to get a good deal on a used MTX Thunderform to fit in the rear side panel. This is a sealed enclosure with 0.8 cubic feet of interior volume and a cutout for a 10" speaker, max mounting depth 4-13/16". I already have a JL Audio 10W6V2-D4 sub I picked up years ago I was going to use, but it needs 6-15/16" of depth. Not going to work obviously, so I need to find something that will and toss the JL on Ebay I guess. I'll be running it off of a Cadence IA7 amplifier which will do 600WRMS at 2 ohms. I'm not trying to rattle windows, looking more for tight controlled sound. Tl;dr - Sub requirements: 10" Mounting depth no greater than 4-13/16" Optimized for an 0.8 cubic ft sealed enclosure, or at least in that ballpark Ability to handle in the 600WRMS range Ideally, the ability to run at 2 ohms - so, either a single VC at 2 ohms, or dual 4 ohm VCs. 1 ohm would be OK as well, 4 ohm only if I couldn't find anything else. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 16, 2013 20:23
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Black88GTA posted:Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 16, 2013 23:38
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Lowclock posted:Might as well just mount the JL with the motor out. (Not kidding) You mean mount it facing inwards? That won't work - the whole thing has to sit behind a side panel. I would guess there's only an inch or two of clearance. I found a couple pics that show what I'm dealing with (it's a Tahoe, same thing). Still don't know where I'm going to put the amp either, but that shouldn't be too hard to figure out. I'm guessing I've got some space behind the panel on the other side.  
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Feb 17, 2013 00:45
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I haven't heard thin woofers yet, but here's the thin version of what I'm using: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-t10/. The thin ones are a lot more expensive than I was expecting, Jesus. Edit: Sorry, that one was 4-ohms. I'm using two of these from a previous generation, 500-watts RMS each: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-10d2/. Edit2: I think it was 500 watts RMS. Or was it 1000. I don't really care. Kachunkachunk fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 02:40
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Kachunkachunk posted:I haven't heard thin woofers yet, but here's the thin version of what I'm using: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-t10/. Yeah, kind of pricey.  Those SWRs look nice, but wouldn't come close to fitting.Most of the shallow subwoofers I'm finding seem to be either underwhelming or expensive as poo poo. I think the Sundown SD-2 is probably what I'm going to end up with. I can't find much about it in terms of reviews, but what little I have found has been overwhelmingly positive, it seems to come at least close to what I'm looking for, and it should (barely) fit. I'm still on the hunt though.
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Feb 17, 2013 07:36
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Yeah that should be better than that alpine at least. If you're set on using that amp and only 1 sub, might as well get the dual 2 ohm version.
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Feb 17, 2013 09:23
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I'm not even that sure if Alpine SWR gear is even all that great, either. I have zero problems with mine, and they have handled some pretty good thumping over the last four or five years. The newest generation of them also seem to the same as the previous SWX (Type-X) gear, interestingly (some comments I've read on Crutchfield suggested that as well). I've never heard these 1000-watt RMS subs, and not sure if it's worth replacing one or both of the 500-watt ones I have. And I'm not sure if JL Audio's current W7 subs might be worth changing over to as well. They have this weird resistance rating of 3 ohms, but I think my PDX-1.1000 will handle two of them fine regardless. Does anyone perhaps know if the W7 series (10" in particular) are worth their price, maybe when compared to cheaper high-ish end Type-R offerings from Alpine?
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Feb 17, 2013 19:51
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Illusion Audio makes the C10 that would fit the enclosure but it is 4 ohm single voice coil and only 300 watts rms so it doesn't really make use of the amp you're using. I haven't heard the newer C10 but Illusion Audio used to make an ND10 that looks very similar and they were very good SQ subs. I ran a single 10 for awhile about 12 years ago. Coincidentally in an MTX thunderform. I think you'll find that most of the shallow mount subs aren't going to have the power handling of your traditional basket subs.
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Feb 17, 2013 22:14
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So I wired up my amp this weekend and...it works! I haven't actually mounted it in place yet because there is a high-pitched whine when driving (none when the car is off) when listening to audio. I've searched around and sounds like it could be a bad ground? I'm going to try moving the amp and see what happens. If that doesn't work I'll try a different ground on the chassis somewhere. Any other tips?
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Feb 18, 2013 01:15
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