|
Help me out here goons. If I had to pick 4 photos that best showed off my skills as a painter using GW only models, and at least 2 had photos of units in them, what should I use? (all of my stuff is viewable if you click the little question mark under my avatar at the bottom of this post) Edit: Im going to rephotograph anything I pick so its not the quality of the photograph I'm after, just what you think is a model that shows off my ability best. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Feb 13, 2013 |
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 17:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 18:23 |
|
|
Lumbering Troll, what are you uding to design this stuff? I've been wanting to start creating terrain like this.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 18:18
|
|
|
Feeple posted:Lumbering Troll, what are you uding to design this stuff? I've been wanting to start creating terrain like this. Sketchup, time and a lot of imagination. For the actual production, 1/8" Hardboard from Home Depot, and a CNC Laser Cutter/Engraver, having it done at a local shop for now, but I plan to buy my own.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 18:21
|
|
|
Acetone-free nail polish remover WILL damage plastic models if you leave it too long. Fortunately my test didn't damage anything too critical, but yeah... As a quick clean-up or anything like that it works fine though. Definitely don't scrub for too long and don't even think about leaving it for some time. EDIT: OneTrueBru posted:Managed to jam an old 0/3 brush in behind the sergeant's icon and gave him his 3rd Company stripe: These look so nice. How do you manage that really smooth look? They look almost polished. I love it and mine look nothing like that 
Monday Averted fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Feb 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 18:55
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:Help me out here goons. If I had to pick 4 photos that best showed off my skills as a painter using GW only models, and at least 2 had photos of units in them, what should I use? You do know Waffleimages died like 6 months ago right? You'll need to rehost.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 19:43
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:You do know Waffleimages died like 6 months ago right? You'll need to rehost. All my stuff has been rehosted and rephotographed on imgur, last page that poo poo my friend.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 20:47
|
|
|
Anyone here use Liquitex acrylic inks for their glazes and washes? Are they good substitutes for the GW/Vallejo inks?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 21:15
|
|
|
Paolomania posted:Anyone here use Liquitex acrylic inks for their glazes and washes? Are they good substitutes for the GW/Vallejo inks? I do, and yeah they work great. Transparent Burnt Sienna is a decent match for the old GW Chestnut Ink.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
Cataphract posted:I finally got a chance to do some work on my Death Guard. here's the fruits of my labour from the past week or so. These are fantastic, the greens you've used complement the rusted wargear nicely. I really like the Prince's base as well. Hellbeard's sculpting is awesome as always, too! Monday Averted posted:These look so nice. How do you manage that really smooth look? They look almost polished. I love it and mine look nothing like that The green basecoat is airbrushed on, which is a massive help. I gloss varnished, then matte varnished them, too, which probably results in them looking a bit cleaner than they really are. The gloss varnish provides a nice smooth base for the matte.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:Help me out here goons. If I had to pick 4 photos that best showed off my skills as a painter using GW only models, and at least 2 had photos of units in them, what should I use? I know it's "GW models only", but you seriously need to include a pic of that phantom titan, it's completely awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:13
|
|
|
That's certainly a GW model, it's just not a Citadel model. FW is GW in the same way Black Library and Citadel are.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:29
|
|
|
Hey, do any of you goons know where I could find hockey sticks that are the same scale as Warmachine/Hordes? I looked around the internet a bit and didn't find much, but I don't normally sculpt or use bits that don't just come with the models and I figured some of you might have ideas on where to look.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:52
|
|
|
EnjoiThePureTrip posted:Hey, do any of you goons know where I could find hockey sticks that are the same scale as Warmachine/Hordes? These are 28mm http://www.impactminiatures.net/index.php?option=hockey They have a stick-only sprue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:57
|
|
|
EnjoiThePureTrip posted:Hey, do any of you goons know where I could find hockey sticks that are the same scale as Warmachine/Hordes? http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=hockey-sticks~hfl007&category=armoury~sci%252dfi
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2013 23:57
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:These are 28mm http://www.impactminiatures.net/index.php?option=hockey Pierzak posted:http://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=hockey-sticks~hfl007&category=armoury~sci%252dfi Thanks guys! That was super fast.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 00:07
|
|
|
I shouldn't even be surprised that there is a fantasy hockey miniatures game, much less scale hockey sticks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 00:11
|
|
|
Now I have to ask: What exactly are you doing that involves hockey sticks and Warmahordes?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 00:59
|
|
|
Optimizing these layouts to use the material effectively sucks..  I want to make sure I can get two of something in a section though, and my sections are 19" x 24" with cutting space of 18 x 24, I am using 2'x4' sheets which need to be cut down to size. so I can get three sections of out a single sheet. and the laser cuts at 1/4000th of an inch so it shouldn't cause an issue if two parts are "touching" on the layout.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 01:06
|
|
|
Cross-posting from the 40k thread: Finally got around to painting the Librarian on bike I kitbashed months ago, quite chuffed with how he turned out (aside from base which needs some proper snow flock), especially since I havn't painted anything in over 6 months.      
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 01:45
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:All my stuff has been rehosted and rephotographed on imgur, last page that poo poo my friend. I like the warrior-type guy with the shield the best, but I don't know if it's a GW model as I don't play any GW games.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 01:50
|
|
|
I am also working on some variant styles for the wall sections and details Thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 02:17
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Now I have to ask: What exactly are you doing that involves hockey sticks and Warmahordes? My friend is just starting out and his first faction is Legion, when thinking of color schemes for his army we tossed out Pittsburgh Pens themed. (Gold/White/Black) So, then we wondered if he could do his whole army painted like actual Pens players (i.e. pThag as Fleury with the number 29 and a goalie stick). So, hopefully he'll soon have a Legion of Pittsburgh hockey team army.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 03:08
|
|
|
I got my P3 gold metallics from TheWarStore so I can paint my evil knight man barbie. Open up the package to get "Brass Balls". White label.  But good thing it hasn't exploded yet. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 05:37
|
|
|
LumberingTroll posted:I am also working on some variant styles for the wall sections and details My thoughts are this is freaking cool. If you can make something like that for less than what games workshop sells them I would be very interested buying from you. On another issue I was wondering what the best way to get pink foam in Southern California is? Our amazing weather means that insulation isn't as important so they don't carry the stuff at our home depots. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there some other foam that works just as well? Do I have to order the stuff online, cause everywhere I have seen it the shipping cost are pretty high.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 06:07
|
|
|
So. Odd question. How good of a rust color does weapons grade thermite make? I painted it onto a test dude and it seems just a little too red. Could I mix in a little yellow or orange to spruce it up a bit? Or am I stupid and don't really know what color rust should actually be on a mini? e: In hindsight this sounds stupider than it should. Should rust be  or http://www.paulbatchelor.com/images/rust2.bmp Schizotek fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Feb 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 06:07
|
|
|
Oath Crosspost! Swordsmen:  Commander:   Also I just figured out that Gimp lets you adjust levels for RGB individually, so these are a lot less red-shifted than the ones I've been posting all year. I'm very happy with the way the pictures look now 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 06:29
|
|
|
I sculpted this guy quickly as an attempt to impress a particular company. They were not impressed but I think he came out pretty cool. The scale is 1:52.      
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 07:50
|
|
|
Dear Camera, Why do you have so many settings that are so confusing to me. Love, The Guy Who Just Found Out That ISO Needs To Be Low. Fake Edit: Hellbeard posted:I sculpted this guy quickly as an attempt to impress a particular company. They were not impressed but I think he came out pretty cool. I think he came out pretty well, although it's apparent that he didn't get the same amount of time and effort that your other guys have received. Did they time how fast you sculpt or something? Real Edit:  Some tiny little Iron Warriors! Signal fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Feb 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 08:52
|
|
|
Signal posted:Dear Camera, Wow, they're super tiny! I wanted to have something to show them quickly is all. I'm trying to speed up my process, also.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:13
|
|
|
Finally got my Miniature Market order today! Just one problem, the black and white P3 Primers I ordered with everything didn't come with. How bad am I going to be doing with no primer? Can I just run to the BX and get whatever spray paint is on hand?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:14
|
|
|
Krylon flat black or flat white is best. Avoid enamels and rustoleums.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:30
|
|
|
Instead of spray paint, get the can of Krylon labelled (strangely enough) "Primer." It'll provide a better surface to work on, and won't flake as easily. Bonus picture of Lincoln in Close Combat:  Still need to matte coat them...
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:35
|
|
|
Signal posted:Instead of spray paint, get the can of Krylon labelled (strangely enough) "Primer." It'll provide a better surface to work on, and won't flake as easily. How do you paint models that small?
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:40
|
|
|
Signal posted:Instead of spray paint, get the can of Krylon labelled (strangely enough) "Primer." It'll provide a better surface to work on, and won't flake as easily. Hazard stripes 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:46
|
|
|
Schizotek posted:How do you paint models that small? Typically after drinking half a pot of coffee, because I'm dumb. Many of the techniques are the same as in doing 28mm stuff, just with a much smaller surface to work on. Washes become even more of a godsend then they were already ('cause no way I'm going to be able to properly shade something that's half a millimeter across) and retarder becomes absolutely necessary to keep the small amount of paint from drying before it gets to the model. I'm sure one of the people who are much better at this than I am can give more helpful advice.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:48
|
|
|
It's easier than painting 28mm by a huge margin.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:48
|
|
|
Serotonin posted:It's easier than painting 28mm by a huge margin. This is also true in a lot of ways.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:50
|
|
|
Schizotek posted:How do you paint models that small? 6mm is easy stuff. I paint up 6mm minis far faster than I paint 28mm. People get scared by the small size, but if you ever try it, you'll find it is fun as all hell. My 6mm samurai:  My 6mm British Napoleonics (no grass yet)   I'm even so lazy that I didn't develop a specific painting style for 6mm, I just prime black, paint one layer of basecoat, and then one layer of highlight. If I feel like it I paint on some washes too, but all you really need is a base coat and a highlight to make it look nice. Just make it a much stronger highlight than you are used to with 28mm, as a discrete highlight won't be noticable at all. A stroke of red and a stroke of orange, and that armour is done. Soooo easy. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Feb 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 09:50
|
|
|
6mm (and smaller scale) painting is a whole other approach from larger scale painting. People buy 6mm 99.9% of the time as gaming piece and not as display pieces. When you paint a 28mm figure you tend to examine it from an arms length away, but the thing to remember with 6mm is when you examine 6mm you also tend to examine it from an arms length away. Just becuase its 5 times smaller than 28mm doesnt mean you examine it from 5 times closer. You dont tend to paint a single 6mm figure either. Whereas a base holds a single 28mm figure (generally), in 6mm it may hold any number- a squad of WW2 infantry, a company of Napoleonic Line Infantry, a Squadron of 7 Years War cavalry etc etc. The point is you dont want the individual mini to 'pop' you want the base, the unit, to pop. 6mm gives the loook of big armies on a battlefield and thats its strength and appeal. As Pete Berry, owner of Baccus (a leading 6mm mini maker said) 28mm armies look like 'a few chaps going for a stroll with a flag' I always liken 6mm painting to Impressionism. From a distance it looks great, up close its a big old mess. Foe example, heres a pic of Napoleon I did in 6mm. The photograph gives that unnaturaly close look that just doesnt work in 6mm, and he looks a big old splodgy mess. On the table top though he looks great (you will have to take my word for that!  Whereas this photo of my British Line Infantry unit kind of looks how it might appear on the table about 2ft away, and really hangs together well, despite very basic techniques much as Illijonas described in his post above.  Feel free to browse my very out of date blog to see more smaller scale painting. http://serotonins.blogspot.co.uk/
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 10:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 18:23 |
|
|
Dammit, now I'm looking at Epic 40K armies on ebay.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2013 10:36
|
|