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It looks like there's a lot more carpet damage than metal damage. Sand it down and if it's all the way through it's a pretty easy place to rivet in a replacement panel. Or weld it if you're confidant about working around the fuel tank.
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 21:24 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 00:16 |
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Looks bad but not fatal to me. Most of the worst rust is on the removable panels, I could probably junkyard those panels, scrub down the rest and might be able to recover?
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 22:05 |
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Living in California I know very little about rust, but this looks recoverable to me. What's the car worth to you?
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 22:09 |
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It's worse than I thought it looked, but yeah it seems very manageable. The whole area in front of the gas tank is a removable panel. Most of the rust on the fixed panels looks light enough you'll be able to just sand and paint it. Edit: Without even trying I found this guy selling them for 50$. http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?4387-Rear-Shelf-Panels-from-NB2-Great-Condition-50-plus-shipping craig588 fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Feb 3, 2013 |
# ? Feb 3, 2013 22:14 |
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Yeah, if you just sand off the rust on the fixed parts and POR15 it, the rust won't come back there. What does that removable panel cover up? I haven't looked under my parcel shelf on my NA yet.
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 23:05 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, if you just sand off the rust on the fixed parts and POR15 it, the rust won't come back there. The gas tank.
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 23:43 |
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Makes sense, it looks like the fuel pump access hatch I've seen on other cars. Seriously though, Sock would laugh at that.
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# ? Feb 3, 2013 23:45 |
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Ok goons. I am working on a friends 2006 mazda miata mx5. And one of the issues is the loving air bag dash light blinking 4 slow blinks then 8 fast. I dredged through the depths of the internet and can not find a thing. It keeps giving me off years, wrong code, or no information on the 06 at all. I even checked the vin to make sure it was an 06 I was loosing it so bad. I called the dealer and they say I have to pay $110 just to tell me whats wrong with the loving air bag a life saving device in this small car. So goons any help here any help at all before I take a shot gun to it. Oh and I ran my hand held diagnostic and it gave me nothing on the air bag light.
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# ? Feb 6, 2013 00:03 |
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I bet you could take that to a body shop and have them cut out / patch panel that for not much money.
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# ? Feb 6, 2013 00:19 |
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A local miata wrecker wants $50 for those little panels as well. I'm thinking of just trimming some kind of sturdy, but softer-than-metal plastic into roughly the right shape and bolting it down. If i smell gas i'll try something else. Assuming your rain rail is intact, rust here is a sign you've installed a convertible top wrong, correct? I think i didnt tuck the rain rail right before bolting it down, or something.
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# ? Feb 6, 2013 00:30 |
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Assuming your rain rail is intact, rust here is a sign you've installed a convertible top wrong, correct? I think i didnt tuck the rain rail right before bolting it down, or something. Check your drain holes. At the outer edges of the rain rail there are two drain holes that take the water to the ground. When I changed the top I noticed mine were clogged and I unclogged them with a wire hanger. Did you inspect your rain rail thoroughly? Mine had a few big noticeable cracks but after I had it out I noticed smaller ones too.
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# ? Feb 6, 2013 02:06 |
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This Megasquirt stuff is absolutely fascinating. It's the perfect toy for a science/stats/computer geek. I still have some work to do on the idle -- it droops if I have the headlights on, sometimes to the point of stalling -- and the MS isn't reading my wideband AFR signal quite right. But it seems to have smoothed out the power delivery nicely, and the drivability is outstanding overall. I really haven't done that much work to it beyond the base map. Yet. Oh, and the fan turns on with the key. I think I wired up a relay wrong. I need to pull it, fix that, and tidy up the wiring behind the seat a bit. Question: has anyone ever done the MAF delete with a Racing Beat intake? I'm running the GM IAT sensor, but right now it's just dangling inside the intake just downstream of the (now unplugged) MAF assembly. I think I'm going to replace it with a short length of exhaust tubing with a silicon connector at each end, drill through the tubing, and use some RTV sealant to hold the sensor in place. Only semi-permanent, as the whole intake's going to be rearranged at some point in the next few months.
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 17:32 |
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Get your wide-band communicating with the MS, set the AFR tables, and let tunerstudio give you a better base VE table. The standard base-map you get from DIY is pig-rich, so there's lots of room for improvement. I'm glad you got it up and running!
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 18:12 |
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flier129 posted:Get your wide-band communicating with the MS, set the AFR tables, and let tunerstudio give you a better base VE table. The standard base-map you get from DIY is pig-rich, so there's lots of room for improvement. Oh, the wide-band is nearly there. MS reads the signal about 0.2 leaner than the gauge displays. So I've given it a little time on VEAL, and here's what I have so far: Kind of an odd lump there just off-idle at 60-100% fuel load, but that's what VEAL put there. Do you know why MegaLogViewer has my Target AFR pegged at 14? I assume I have something set up wrong, as the target AFR table in TS looks fine. Or at least I think it does.
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 19:27 |
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For your GM AIT, just zip tie it to the diagnostic box if you're NA. As long as your exhaust isn't radiating boatloads of heat, you'll be OK.
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 20:07 |
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Phone posted:For your GM AIT, just zip tie it to the diagnostic box if you're NA. As long as your exhaust isn't radiating boatloads of heat, you'll be OK. That'd make life a lot easier. Thanks.
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 20:46 |
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One thing to watch out for when you go turbo - I had the IAT bung welded close-ish to the throttle body on my '95 Turbo and it would heatsoak a lot after turning the car off. So if you tried to start the car soon after you had shut it off (and it was fully warm), the IAT would read a lot hotter than the air entering the TB actually was. I think some people suggested they had better luck by moving the IAT further from the TB and closer to the intercooler, but I dunno - I think that also might reduce the accuracy of the IAT under normal conditions. That heatsoak thing was super annoying though because the car would run incredibly lean for a few minutes until the temp stabilized.
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# ? Feb 7, 2013 23:21 |
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SpikeD posted:Ok goons. I am working on a friends 2006 mazda miata mx5. Oh and I ran my hand held diagnostic and it gave me nothing on the air bag light. Here's some info I found on m.net relating to this: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=445689 Also this: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=445979&highlight=airbag+flashing+light Someone mentioned that airbag codes aren't run through the OBDII, so you'll either need to figure out the code, or take it to the dealership.
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# ? Feb 8, 2013 00:29 |
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GOD IS BED posted:Here's some info I found on m.net relating to this: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=445689 Thank you so much for this feed back. I'm looking into the wiring set up tomorrow.
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# ? Feb 8, 2013 05:44 |
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Hog Obituary posted:One thing to watch out for when you go turbo - Shouldn't reduce the accuracy, it's the coolest reading post-intercooler, and it's the most popular placement for an IAT on a turbo setup.
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# ? Feb 8, 2013 15:19 |
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flier129 posted:Shouldn't reduce the accuracy, it's the coolest reading post-intercooler, and it's the most popular placement for an IAT on a turbo setup. Ah, yeah, I had contemplated moving the IAT closer to the IC, but the impression I had from DIY, etc, was you were supposed to put it close to the TB. If it works great near the IC, and it doesn't heatsoak, then that sounds perfect.
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# ? Feb 8, 2013 20:03 |
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The restriction the throttle body and the hot aluminum intake manifold, valves, and the cooling effect from the fuel spray all gently caress with the actual cylinder air temperature anyway, so a generally accurate reading is fine. Its for density and corrections, there's some leeway.
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# ? Feb 8, 2013 20:24 |
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My plan was to weld a bung just on the cold side of the intercooler. That's a ways down the road, though. Spent an hour or so this evening tuning my idle. It's just right now. I don't think I'm going to need closed-loop, although I'm not sure I can resist the lure of all those cool equations. The MAF is gone, and I took it out for a quick spin round the block -- there's still a slight off-idle hesitation, but we're definitely making progress. Before I go too much further, though, I think I need to figure out why TunerStudio reads my AFR differently than the gauge does. It's an Innovate MTX, and I hooked it up as suggested -- it and the Megasquirt are both grounded to the same place. However, the MTX reads about 0.3-0.5 leaner than Tunerstudio reports. I think I'm gonna have to get in there with a meter and see exactly what the deal is.
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# ? Feb 9, 2013 01:07 |
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There should be some instructions on how to calibrate the software to the sensor.
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# ? Feb 9, 2013 04:53 |
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Yep, you can calibrate them with the innovate program and also within Tunerstudio. I remember something about how both ground for the gauge and the ecu should be the same but it's been awhile. Mine was always off a little bit too and I sold the car before dealing with it right.
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# ? Feb 9, 2013 14:22 |
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I gave up and bought a OBX header for my Californian 99 in hopes of getting it past emissions. Everyone wanted $150+ shipped for a 01 manifold. In the mean time, it has thrown another code for the EGR valve. Ugggg.
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# ? Feb 10, 2013 02:51 |
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I bought ToolShack's '97 Miata (thanks bro). So happy I have a solid Miata now, I can finally start making progress. Kids LOVE Miatas.
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# ? Feb 14, 2013 06:08 |
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leica posted:Kids LOVE Miatas. This is true. I've heard more little kids go "look at that car!" parking lots. I also spent 30 minutes talking to some old redneck guy in the grocery store about the car a couple of weeks ago. He mentioned wanting to get one because he had fond memories of his AW11 MR2 he bought new decades ago. Good looking car; I'd love to find a decent hardtop for mine. It's amazing how much the interior has not changed over the years.
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# ? Feb 14, 2013 11:07 |
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That picture is pretty awesome man. A bit of the money from the Miata sell went to buy a new reel to reel.
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# ? Feb 14, 2013 21:58 |
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Heh, I had a feeling you'd splurge on audio or live coral Let me know when you want to sell your Mazda wagon, pretty sure we're gonna get one to replace the Vic. [edit] Seriously, I want to buy that wagon. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Feb 14, 2013 |
# ? Feb 14, 2013 23:39 |
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If they release the new Mazda6 wagon with diesel, I might jump on that. To keep this Miata related, this is the first time is almost ten years my family is without one. It's weird.
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 03:54 |
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leica posted:I bought ToolShack's '97 Miata (thanks bro). So happy I have a solid Miata now, I can finally start making progress. Black on Black with a hardtop, good poo poo
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 04:00 |
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Thinking about going with black Rota Watanabe knock off wheels for solid blackness Gonna tint the windows too. Too much black?
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 04:04 |
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leica posted:Thinking about going with black Rota Watanabe knock off wheels for solid blackness He should do the Ronal Teddybears *ducks and runs*
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 04:30 |
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This is pretty much what I'm thinking:
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 04:36 |
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leica posted:Thinking about going with black Rota Watanabe knock off wheels for solid blackness The great thing about black is that it goes with every wheel color. Like gold, white, and purple
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 05:11 |
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Black Black checking it!
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# ? Feb 15, 2013 16:34 |
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NA's look so much better with flat black on the chrome bits.
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# ? Feb 16, 2013 13:56 |
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Miata megamen: is there anything to be weary about with this example? I'm aware of the early models eating crankshafts. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3603005650.html Yeah, that exhaust is a bit...odd
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# ? Feb 16, 2013 15:14 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 00:16 |
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AF posted:Miata megamen: is there anything to be weary about with this example? I'm aware of the early models eating crankshafts. Looks clean and all the bits seem to be from good people. I dont know about the roll bar, it looks a bit on the weak side. I dont know of any other 1.6 car problems to look for. For that age and mileage I think id try to talk him down a bit on price.
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# ? Feb 16, 2013 17:14 |