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Hey guys, I have a question, not sure if it's appropriate for this thread or not. Are modems something that have to frequently be reset? I started having connection drops over wireless, and the other computer I have plugged directly into the router is kinda... slow. So I took the computer and plugged it directly into the modem. Still slow. By slow I mean, sometimes it's really slow, sometimes the internet just flat out doesn't work. Afterwards, I took the modem and hit the reset button for 30 seconds straight. Now everything runs fine. Should I be worried? Is my modem going to fry, or my router, or a combination? To be honest we're having so many internet issues that I can't tell if it's the modem or the router.
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Feb 9, 2013 19:10
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2 things that would help: What is the name brand/model of the modem you have ? (If you know) Go to http://speedtest.net run test, what do you get for up/down speeds ? Some cable modems have a small built in set of diagnostic web pages that you can access with your web browser. They can contain info such as current upstream and downstream signal status of your modem. Signal issues can have a big impact on what kind of speeds you get.
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Feb 9, 2013 20:11
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MREBoy posted:2 things that would help: The modem has been running fine since I reset it. Before it was abysmal, nearly impossible to even load Google, and other times it wouldn't at all, and then other times... it'd be fast again. We'd noticed about a month ago that sometimes the connection seemed REALLY slow, or just outright crappy, but it was a twice-a-week occurrence. Prior to the reset, it was constant, non-stop. It's an Arris WBM760A. My upload and download speeds are as advertised, 30mbps/5mbps. I haven't tried to load the firmware page for the modem yet, but I'm very familiar with my routers firmware (it was DD-WRT, which I then reverted back to stock when this started happening, to see if it made any difference, it didn't). As of now, everything is working great. I don't know what the difference would be, in all honesty, I'd unplugged the modem several times before to see if it made a difference, and the only thing that made things normal again was holding down the reset button for 30 seconds (a tip I stole from DD-WRT diagnosing, just trying anything I could). EDIT- A little more information, I downloaded a game through its installer, and it seemed to make things go haywire. I'd had the problem before this once or twice a week, but once I used this installer, during and after, the connection was just terrible. I'm not sure if that's related or not.
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Feb 9, 2013 20:27
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Holding the reset button wipes out the non-volatile RAM on the cable modem, where certain bits of info that don't change are stored so they don't get lost when the modem is power cycled. You did what is usually referred to as a hard or factory reset - think resetting the BIOS on a computer to all defaults. This kind of reset is usually done later in any sort of troubleshooting routine as some modems can take a long time (10+ mins) to sort themselves out when this is done (disclaimer: did 1.7 years of tier 1 phone support for Comcast consumer internet back in 2000-2001). If you want to go poking around on the diagnostic pages, google tells me it should be at 192.168.100.1. The password protected pages use a password that is procedurally generated based on date. This page appears to have a working password generator. How big was this game download ?
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Feb 9, 2013 20:57
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MREBoy posted:Holding the reset button wipes out the non-volatile RAM on the cable modem, where certain bits of info that don't change are stored so they don't get lost when the modem is power cycled. You did what is usually referred to as a hard or factory reset - think resetting the BIOS on a computer to all defaults. This kind of reset is usually done later in any sort of troubleshooting routine as some modems can take a long time (10+ mins) to sort themselves out when this is done (disclaimer: did 1.7 years of tier 1 phone support for Comcast consumer internet back in 2000-2001). It was only 6GB.  Thusfar, everything has been working swimmingly. The POTD generator doesn't work for me. None of the passwords seem to work. I'm not on Comcast though, maybe that has something to do with it? I looked around online and saw that some have custom password lists or something, I dunno. EDIT- It just started doing it again. I tried everything like before, and the only thing that brought it back to normal was that little reset button in the rear, after 30 seconds. I don't know wtf it means. 
Abandon All Hope fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 00:44
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Abandon All Hope posted:It was only 6GB. It means it's time for a new modem. Do you rent from your provider or own? Either way RMA it, or buy a new one if you own and have had it more than a year.
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Feb 10, 2013 05:20
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Hmm, do any of the modem diagnostic pages you can access show any information as to signal strength or any sort of logs ? This page and this other page on Comcast's forums seem to indicate that if you are getting "SW Upgrade Failed Before Download - Server not Present" or "SW upgrade Failed before download - TFTP Max Retry Exceeded" repeatedly in your logs, it may indicate it's the modem loving up & needs replacing.
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Feb 10, 2013 05:26
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SeaborneClink posted:It means it's time for a new modem. Do you rent from your provider or own? Either way RMA it, or buy a new one if you own and have had it more than a year. They loan it to use, but we don't pay for it. My ISP is local to NW Ohio, and REALLY good. They generally take really good care of us, and they'll let us swap it out for free. MREBoy posted:Hmm, do any of the modem diagnostic pages you can access show any information as to signal strength or any sort of logs ? This page and this other page on Comcast's forums seem to indicate that if you are getting "SW Upgrade Failed Before Download - Server not Present" or "SW upgrade Failed before download - TFTP Max Retry Exceeded" repeatedly in your logs, it may indicate it's the modem loving up & needs replacing. I don't see anything like that, in the logs, all I've gotten for today is: 2/2/2013 8:35 68010600 6 DHCP Renew - lease parameters tftp file-^1/6B4E7FED/ modified;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/2/2013 15:35 82000200 3 No Ranging Response received - T3 time-out;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/5/2013 20:35 68010600 6 DHCP Renew - lease parameters tftp file-^1/68BC0CBC/ modified;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/6/2013 15:44 82000200 3 No Ranging Response received - T3 time-out;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/7/2013 11:45 90000000 5 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/7/2013 11:45 73040100 6 TLV-11 - unrecognized OID;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 12:53 90000000 5 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 12:53 73040100 6 TLV-11 - unrecognized OID;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 13:04 90000000 5 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 13:04 73040100 6 TLV-11 - unrecognized OID;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 19:49 90000000 5 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 19:49 73040100 6 TLV-11 - unrecognized OID;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 19:57 90000000 5 MIMO Event MIMO: Stored MIMO=-1 post cfg file MIMO=-1;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; 2/9/2013 19:57 73040100 6 TLV-11 - unrecognized OID;CM-MAC=00:1d:cd:38:7c:29;CMTS-MAC=c4:71:fe:73:a7:9d;CM-QOS=1.1;CM-VER=3.0; All kinds of MAC ID's in there, I don't know if that's dangerous for me to be posting here or not. EDIT- Editing for what I think is signal strength? Downstream DCID Freq Power SNR Modulation Octets Correcteds Uncorrectables Downstream 1 81 639.00 MHz -3.75 dBmV 37.09 dB 256QAM 131914301 450 721 Downstream 2 82 645.00 MHz -3.55 dBmV 37.64 dB 256QAM 96889586 567 725 Downstream 3 83 651.00 MHz -3.22 dBmV 37.64 dB 256QAM 93236022 981 726 Downstream 4 84 657.00 MHz -4.28 dBmV 37.94 dB 256QAM 93133808 1342 721 Reset FEC Counters Upstream UCID Freq Power Channel Type Symbol Rate Modulation Upstream 1 1 22.80 MHz 44.25 dBmV DOCSIS2.0 (ATDMA) 5120 kSym/s 16QAM Upstream 4 2 34.00 MHz 44.25 dBmV DOCSIS2.0 (ATDMA) 5120 kSym/s 16QAM
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Feb 10, 2013 11:54
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Using Win 8 sharing to try and transfer a few gigs of data between my Win 8 x64 desktop and Win 8 x64 laptop and Win 8 reports I'm only getting 2.13Mb/s transfer speed. Router is a Netgear DGND3700 Desktop is connected directly via ethernet. Laptop is wireless about 4ft from me so it's not a signal strength issue. Laptop is connected via g wifi and is plugged into A/C and using hi-performance power option. I know n wifi offers better transfer speeds but the n range has such a terrible drop off that I always use g so I can use my laptop wherever I am in the house. I'm using bog-standard Sharing feature (not homegroup). Surely I should be getting much faster rates than that!?
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Feb 10, 2013 16:33
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Win8 reports in MB/sec, not Mbps. That's closer to 15-20 Mbps, which seems realistic for a G connection.
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Feb 10, 2013 18:36
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I went and replaced the modem, everything works fine, and will hopefully stay working fine. Thanks for all of your help MREBoy, and SeaborneClink. 
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Feb 10, 2013 19:24
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Currently planning a significant revision of the OP as I'm finishing up a screenplay and some animation this week. Any suggestions? Things that you would like to see, perhaps have removed or any other ideas.
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Feb 10, 2013 21:45
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In case you were wondering about all that signal level stuff, check this FAQ page. You appear to have a pretty good signal.
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Feb 10, 2013 21:50
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How good is QoS for home connections? What can I expect? I'm running pfSense for my home internet connection (it's a business internet account, but that doesn't provide me anything special) and I'd like to start using VOIP but I'm often downloading or playing games (on the internet), etc. Right now if I want to play a game I manually stop all downloads, etc. However, if I start using VOIP I need to make sure it always works and if my wife wants to make a phone call it won't matter what else is happening on the network. I also don't want to limit or cap my bandwidth (i.e. a lot of QoS algorithms seem to make you limit your bandwidth to 90% to allow for QoS to work properly). Can anybody give me any advice on this? What can I realistically expect with pfSense + QoS and VOIP? EDIT: What concerns me is that I can only prioritize the packets I'm sending to my ISP. I can't prioritize the incoming packets (i.e. if I'm downloading at full speed while trying to make a VOIP call, etc)
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Feb 12, 2013 13:41
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Vinlaen posted:How good is QoS for home connections? What can I expect? Just as you can shape the outgoing packets on the ISP interface, so too can you shape the packets sent out the LAN interface. Bulk file transfers use TCP, which dynamically throttles the stream when there's a bottleneck (intentional or not) in the path. It won't help you with a DDOS, but on a SOHO connection there's not a lot you can do about that anyway, besides informing your ISP. Set up your queues on the LAN interface with the bandwidth set at the max downstream bandwidth you get from your ISP. Then you'll be able to separate and prioritize the traffic in both directions to ensure Quality of Service.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:14
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Keep in mind that QoS also means you won't be able to take advantage of any 'powerboost' type offerings that your ISP may have. You'll want to set your pipes to be sized relative to your maximum consistent speeds, not whatever advertised "50Gbpswith powerboost, 5Mbps normally" they sold you on. I used to use it when I was running m0n0wall and it worked pretty drat well. I never bothered setting it up once I went to pfSense, though, since in the interim I switched to a seedbox for torrenting, and standard rsync/sftp/http downloads don't seem to rape my HTTP performance the same way torrenting did.
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Feb 12, 2013 18:20
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Thanks for the info! My ISP doesn't offer powerboost (or anything similar) so I'm just getting a straight 25/3. I've done several speedtests (about 10x or so) and here's the maximum I'm getting: Download speed: 23.32 Mbit/s (max) Upload speed: 2.34 Mbit/s (max) I think that's pretty close to my rated speed because I know there is packet overhead, etc. Are those the numbers I should enter into the QoS wizard or should I go slightly lower? (although, I hate the idea of entering a LOWER amount and forcing my connection to go slower just so I can perform QoS, but what can you do?)
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Feb 12, 2013 18:40
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Vinlaen posted:Are those the numbers I should enter into the QoS wizard or should I go slightly lower? (although, I hate the idea of entering a LOWER amount and forcing my connection to go slower just so I can perform QoS, but what can you do?)
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Feb 12, 2013 21:28
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Any verdict on the DIR-615? Been looking for a good, solid (and cheap) router to replace the old family one.
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Feb 12, 2013 22:25
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I live in an apartment complex with free wifi for residents. It's fine except I can't use Airplay to stream to my AppleTV because of the security settings they have setup. Also there's ~80 devices in the Airplay menu at all times. I have a dd-wrt capable router that does wireless bridging but I'm having trouble figuring out how to set it up so that I can connect it to the semipublic wireless and then connect all my devices to it segregated from the rest of the network. I can set it up as a simple repeater but that still puts my devices on the same subnet as the rest of the building and doesn't solve my problem.
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Feb 13, 2013 04:13
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I have the same setup. You can setup your router as a client or in repeater mode (not bridge) for the public network and add a virtual AP if you only have one radio. Otherwise, you can setup the other radio as the AP. http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Repeater
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Feb 13, 2013 04:30
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So I don't know if this is the correct megathread for this question, so I will briefly explain it. If someone confirms this is the correct place for this then I'll make a second post with all the relevant details, otherwise I'll delete the post: I want to put my AT&T router (i38hg) into bridge mode so I can use my own router (WRT54G). I am doing this because I have 3 xbox 360s behind the router, and I think that a better router/some port forwarding will help me avoid NAT issues. The i38hg, however, doesn't do bridge mode BUT according to this: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r25757234- I can do something similar to bridge mode. My problems: Will this semi-bridge mode do more harm than good? Will there be bad latency? Will this further fudge my NAT issues? Is this even the right direction to head in to fix NAT issues?
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Feb 13, 2013 21:29
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optimaltable posted:http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r25757234- With all of the security features disabled it looks pretty close to bridge mode as the modem basically won't be doing anything except sending packets to your router. I don't see latency being an issue as the modem doesn't need to do any packet inspection. It all comes down to the performance of your router. Hopefully it will fix your NAT issues as it would all be dealt with by your router.
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Feb 13, 2013 23:04
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It don't really get this. Why would you want to ban towns from building their own network infrastructure. It's like someone hates competition and the free market (has been bribed by a large ISP). http://arstechnica.com/tech-policy/2013/02/georgia-bill-no-muni-broadband-in-areas-with-at-least-1-5mbps-service/ Whereas in NZ the Government is funding 150 mbit/s uncontested fibre to the entire country.
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Feb 15, 2013 00:31
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optimaltable posted:So I don't know if this is the correct megathread for this question, so I will briefly explain it. If someone confirms this is the correct place for this then I'll make a second post with all the relevant details, otherwise I'll delete the post: If I'm reading that right, it sounds a lot like the DMZplus mode I'm using on my AT&T U-Verse "residential gateway" (3800HGV-B). I've been running that way for a couple years with various routers behind it and haven't seen any issues. My router gets assigned my external IP address and handles all my NAT/DHCP/etc for me and the 2Wire box basically acts like a bridge/modem (and passes the IPTV to my STB, since I'm a TV/internet subscriber). It seems like most of the people in the U-Verse thread are running similar setups and I don't recall seeing any major complaints from anyone, so you should be okay.
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Feb 15, 2013 00:53
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chizad posted:If I'm reading that right, it sounds a lot like the DMZplus mode I'm using on my AT&T U-Verse "residential gateway" (3800HGV-B). I've been running that way for a couple years with various routers behind it and haven't seen any issues. My router gets assigned my external IP address and handles all my NAT/DHCP/etc for me and the 2Wire box basically acts like a bridge/modem (and passes the IPTV to my STB, since I'm a TV/internet subscriber). It seems like most of the people in the U-Verse thread are running similar setups and I don't recall seeing any major complaints from anyone, so you should be okay. Agreed. I have my 3801HGV in DMZ mode to my router running tomato, and it works great.
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Feb 15, 2013 03:54
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I've got a WRT54GL that I love and a 1 Megabit connection so it does just fine. But I'm pretty much fed up with G, so I'm looking for a plain and simple N access point. Anything recommended?
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Feb 15, 2013 05:24
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FISHMANPET posted:I've got a WRT54GL that I love and a 1 Megabit connection so it does just fine. But I'm pretty much fed up with G, so I'm looking for a plain and simple N access point. Anything recommended?
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Feb 15, 2013 05:44
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Devian666 posted:It don't really get this. Why would you want to ban towns from building their own network infrastructure. It's like someone hates competition and the free market (has been bribed by a large ISP). You'd want to ban it too if they are bribing/lobbying you with lots of money and you don't give a poo poo about what people actually think of you since you got into the position of power with helps from the same people who are asking you to do these thing.
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Feb 15, 2013 07:57
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DaNzA posted:You'd want to ban it too if they are bribing/lobbying you with lots of money and you don't give a poo poo about what people actually think of you since you got into the position of power with helps from the same people who are asking you to do these thing. That's it. I feel sorry for people in small towns getting stuck with horrible Internet due to corruption. Today got busy as I had our ISP call up offering a deal. I got suspicious as two ISPs don't call up offering cheap two year contracts by coincidence within 24 hours. I checked the national fibre rollout and in finishes near my office by June. So I asked the ISP when it turns up and it's ready at the start of April for higher speeds at a lower price. Now I'm pissed off at my office ISP for trying this poo poo. Devian666 fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Feb 15, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 12:06
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Devian666 posted:It don't really get this. Why would you want to ban towns from building their own network infrastructure. It's like someone hates competition and the free market (has been bribed by a large ISP). You answered your own question. If you are a phone or cable company and you can charge $60 a month for something like 10/1 service or lower because you are the only game in town, of course you don't want those uppity citizens voting to build their own fiber network where the lowest speed tier is far above your highest one. It comes down to what is cheaper; kicking a few grand into some reelection campaigns or upgrading your infrastructure.
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Feb 15, 2013 15:45
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Has anyone resolved wireless issues on a RT-N16 by upgrading from the stock firmware to dd-wrt or tomato? I've had this router for a few months, and I get a lot of packet loss in my apartment. Most of the time I'll be in the same room as the router. I've tried running it on different channels and modes without any help. I also don't think it's a hidden node problem because all of my wireless devices are usually in the same room. I used to have an ASUS WL-500g with a Ubiquiti 802.11b card running DD-WRT, and I never had any issues. I assume that Ubiquiti card is much better, so that might explain it.
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Feb 15, 2013 17:01
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The_Franz posted:You answered your own question. If you are a phone or cable company and you can charge $60 a month for something like 10/1 service or lower because you are the only game in town, of course you don't want those uppity citizens voting to build their own fiber network where the lowest speed tier is far above your highest one. It comes down to what is cheaper; kicking a few grand into some reelection campaigns or upgrading your infrastructure. Not really a question. Where I live this would be disaster for politicians where they would scape goat someone and carry out an investigation to find out how this happened. One of the benefits of living in a democracy.
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Feb 15, 2013 18:05
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I'm thinking about jumping from a 25/3 service to 50/5. Right now my network consists of a wifi printer (/g), my PC which is hardwired to the router (router, pc, and coax drop are all next to each other thankfully), and then a room mates imac (/g). The 2008 imac is /n capable. The PC has no wifi card or need for one, so that'll stay hard wired. The printer can only do /g. Will I have any issues staying with my WRT54g? My biggest concern is if the g router hard wired will have any issues using the increased bandwidth. I know if I bump up to an N router then I'll still need to run in a mixed mode to support the printer's /g..which means I'd end up buying an N router and a longer USB cable to hard wire the printer and stay in /n only. I'd rather not have to buy a new router though.
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Feb 15, 2013 18:55
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zer0spunk posted:I'm thinking about jumping from a 25/3 service to 50/5. Right now my network consists of a wifi printer (/g), my PC which is hardwired to the router (router, pc, and coax drop are all next to each other thankfully), and then a room mates imac (/g). I'm surprised that you haven't noticed issues already. When dealing with WAN<->LAN the plain old WRT54G can generally only handle about 20Mbps of traffic before the CPU is maxed out. Also bear in mind that the 54Mbps wireless speed is combined up/down throughput so you are only getting 27Mbps in either direction. So, yes, it will be a bottleneck.
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Feb 15, 2013 19:56
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Instead of trying to get out of bed every 10 minutes after an injury, I'm going to call onto the help of the goons to see what the gently caress I am doing wrong to setup a simple VLAN and network for my ESXi Lab. Here is what I'm trying to do: Right now my network looks like this: I have a FIOS router with a MOCA connection (which I will be changing over to a real router once my MOCA adaptors come) which goes out to 2 other networks. The first is a Airport Express with my HTPC stuff connected to it so I don't have to hear that the internet is done when I'm trying to tinker with things and someone needs to watch Housewives of OakLand County or something. This is connected to a LAN port of the router and is Double NAT's (LOLZ) but since nothing is every trying to get to it from the WORLD-WIDE-WEB, I could care less about the port mappings, Nat, etc. As long as it can connect to my iPad while I'm on the toilet and feed my tv from the DVR, I don't care. This sits on the network of 10.0.1.*, with DHCP being given out by the Airport. Next, also connected to the FIOS router is a PFSENSE box, I want to use to separate my man-cave network. I have the PFSENSE box's WAN connected to the LAN of the FIOS router (double NAT again?) but it is set as a DZM so I don't have to gently caress with port mapping. Configured to 192.168.1.15 DHCP off the FIOS router. The PFSENSE has two interfaces (Dual INTEL PRO 10/100, etc,) even though it has like 5 when you configure it (the ONBOARD, FIREWIRE, and FIREWIRE over IP.) It's an old Shuttle XPC and PFSENSE is cool, so I'd like to use that. Unless there is some other dead easy build-a-router that would work for this setup that my GOON TECH SUPPORT for this project would recommend. Untangle? Just get a router that has *DRT support? It is setup as WAN 192.168.1.15 DHCP and on the LAN side it goes to my man-cave network of 172.30.1.1 - 172.30.1.254 offered by PFSENSE. Now comes the part it all goes to hell and I hate my life more than anything my girlfriend hates me for. I got a great deal on an HP 1810-24/v2 so I grabbed it. This is my first "real" managed switch so most the thing I guess it can do make no sense to me. All my other switches are just plug and play, kinda like on my 10.0.1.* network offered by Airport. Now I know this is only a 2 layer switch, which is why I need to route the IP addressed to the VLAN though PFSENSE for them to see the internet. That is ONE of my problems so far, but lets get back to this diagram description. The setup on the 1810 is, port 1 connected to my management machine, a MBP; port 2 is connected to the LAN port coming off PFSENSE creating my 172.30.1.* network. I have two other computers hooked up to this. One is a ESXi box with 3 NICS. One NIC, vmnic2 is connected to port 7 for my management interface and has the IP of 172.30.1.12; The second NIC, vmnic1 to port 8 on the switch, which I want to use for JUST storage traffic. The storage NAS/SAN/Dildo Box will be connected to I guess port 6, so it would need to be connected to the same VLAN as the ESXi Box and whatever else. I have one more free NIC to use on the ESXi host, but it's the onboard so I was trying not to use it at all. I guess I would change the management vswitch to this onboard NIC, and host VM traffic on vmnic2. That is down the road since I need a proof of concept with just the basics before I add more poo poo this is giant waste of money toy. The other computer connected o the switch is really not a computer, but a Bridged connection of Windows 7 in VMware Fusion, so I can use the ESXi connection client. It has it own IP address of 172.30.1.10 connected to the management port 1 on the 1810. SO, thats how the network is laid out so far. What I want this all to end up looking like:  I included screenshots as well to help. I am offering $50 PAYPAL to anyone that is willing to take the time to maybe Skype in and desktop share with me to maybe figure this all out so I can get into building my storage box and adding it to the network so I can do some learning. Of course I'll have to screenshot every page for reference once its setup, but thats only when I gently caress it all up again and need a place to start.  IF you can think of some better hardware that will make this all play nicer together, please let me know; I got a few more bucks in the budget for all this. Either reply here or PM is great, and thanks in advance, you blessed souls.  Screenshots: http://imgur.com/a/M759u kill your idols fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 20:28
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Your image shows two vlans (VLAN1 and VLAN2) with the same subnet on them (as well as on the switch). Is that what you want? Generally you should have one subnet per vlan and a router to connect the two. If you want them to communicate without a router, you should not use vlans.
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Feb 15, 2013 22:36
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Ninja Rope posted:Your image shows two vlans (VLAN1 and VLAN2) with the same subnet on them (as well as on the switch). Is that what you want? Generally you should have one subnet per vlan and a router to connect the two. If you want them to communicate without a router, you should not use vlans. Ok, I updated the diagram. I just want the VM traffic and management on one VLAN, and the SAN/Storage on another. EDIT: SO EACH can have its own subnet than, so 172.30.1.* for VM traffic, 172.30.2.* for Management, and etc.. Like this: 
kill your idols fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Feb 16, 2013 |
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Feb 16, 2013 01:34
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To be clear, you're intentionally isolating your SAN so that it can't be accessed from your VM box without special routing? Because if not, I still don't get why you have so many subnets.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:49
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:To be clear, you're intentionally isolating your SAN so that it can't be accessed from your VM box without special routing? Because if not, I still don't get why you have so many subnets. I just wanted to try and show an example. No clue why this guy put the SAN/NAS storage on another subnet. I'd want to just keep it all together so they can all talk without having to do any special routing. My guess is I need to setup PFSENSE to have multiple subnets on one lan interface, than set up the the switch vlans;as well as make sure the routing works so new VM's can pull a DHCP and get an IP out to the interwebs.
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Feb 16, 2013 03:01
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