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Rhyno posted:Use the basement and buy a respirator. Is there a window? Buy a box fan and some plastic drop clothes and you can create a wind tunnel up to the window and keep the bulk of the fumes out. Maybe you had better luck with this, but the first floor of my house was uninhabitable for a few hours after painting some wheels this way. I had 2 fans going and 3 basement windows open. Won't be doing that again.
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Feb 7, 2013 15:22
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Jared592 posted:Maybe you had better luck with this, but the first floor of my house was uninhabitable for a few hours after painting some wheels this way. I had 2 fans going and 3 basement windows open. Won't be doing that again. Tape up around your ductwork and the basement door. I had no real issues. I bought a HF float charger yesterday and the instructions are different than what I remember. I take the battery cables off before I hook it up right?
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Feb 8, 2013 06:23
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slidebite posted:Other ideas? It's a $200 sensor so I'd rather not buy a new one (the screw is top of frame).
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Feb 8, 2013 07:22
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Rhyno posted:Tape up around your ductwork and the basement door. I had no real issues. It's always better to leave everything hooked up and not worry about the risk of damaging your car's electronics because Harbor Freight products go through strict quality control.
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Feb 8, 2013 13:50
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It's surprisingly hard to find a 17mm hex driver on short notice on a nasty day I don't want to drive very far. Though, the counterpoint should not be why nobody carries a 17mm hex driver, but why the gently caress a manufacturer would spec such an oddball size in the first place. Finally found one in a $35 set at advance auto parts- was marked $10 off (discontinued I think) and I had a $5 coupon, but $20 is still a lot for a hex driver set I'll probably never use again. grover fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 17:27
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Rhyno posted:I bought a HF float charger yesterday and the instructions are different than what I remember. I take the battery cables off before I hook it up right? daslog you funny. I've never had a problem leaving things attached. Just attach to battery then plug it in. I'm currently using 4 of them.
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Feb 8, 2013 17:37
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grover posted:It's surprisingly hard to find a 17mm hex driver on short notice on a nasty day I don't want to drive very far. Though, the counterpoint should not be why nobody carries a 17mm hex driver, but why the gently caress a manufacturer would spec such an oddball size in the first place. sell it to some poor bastard who likes VAG products when you're done with it.
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Feb 8, 2013 18:18
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kastein posted:sell it to some poor bastard who likes VAG products when you're done with it. If I recall mine's a bolt head welded on to the end of a bent piece of bar. This was a bought tool believe it or not. But all things considered I couldn't be happier with it.
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Feb 9, 2013 00:56
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A fair bit of time has elapsed so I'm going to re-ask a question and perhaps rephrase a little. I'd like a wideband gauge of some description. 14point7 to my knowledge was the best bang for my buck for one for diagnostic purposes. I don't know which way to go. It seems sort of pointless to have one on the Fairlane because it takes are of its own poo poo and looking at the manual it should to a pretty good job because it has at least one wideband O2 sensor. Although it would be nice to shove something in to get absolute readings. Can't do it via ECU although there may be output pins on its diagnostic connector for the sensors. I was looking at the gauges a few pages back and they look useful. It's probably a silly question but are there analog needle style ones, and if so do they command a premium? I like my basic black gauges.
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Feb 9, 2013 02:36
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Why would you want one? It's an NA car that I'm pretty sure you aren't actively tuning.......so what would staring at "14.7" the whole time you are driving actually tell you?
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Feb 9, 2013 02:43
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General_Failure posted:If I recall mine's a bolt head welded on to the end of a bent piece of bar. This was a bought tool believe it or not. But all things considered I couldn't be happier with it. 
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Feb 9, 2013 03:53
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It's been a few months since I used my low profile jack from Harbor Freight. I went out to rotate my tires today and the jack would just barely lift the car up then stop having much of any resistance in the handle. It's almost like it is low on oil or something. I don't have the receipt anymore so are they going to give me poo poo about returning it under warranty? It's a little over 2 years old. Or is this something I can fix myself?
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Feb 10, 2013 04:57
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Rubiks Pubes posted:It's almost like it is low on oil or something. I have to ask........did you check if it was low on oil? Because it sure sounds like it.
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Feb 10, 2013 05:04
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I honestly don't know how to check it. There is one screw that says it is for adjustment and not to tamper with it. And then a breather nut. What kind of oil do I need to put in it?
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Feb 10, 2013 05:40
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Any recommendations for an electric impact? plugin is fine. a while back I picked up a largish compressor/tank from harbor freight but its good for 85 psi at best, I do better with a breaker bar. I want something electric for really stuck bolts, or an i stuck with air?
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Feb 10, 2013 09:26
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Dyscrasia posted:Any recommendations for an electric impact? plugin is fine. a while back I picked up a largish compressor/tank from harbor freight but its good for 85 psi at best, I do better with a breaker bar. I want something electric for really stuck bolts, or an i stuck with air? I wasted 25 or 30 bucks on an electric from HF because I was feeling lazy to take my own lugs off. It kind of worked. Took it to work as a joke, gave up using it and loosing a bet after about two tickets. If your gonna spend money on a gun, and you will anyway for a decent electric, you might as well get air. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 10, 2013 09:41
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Dyscrasia posted:Any recommendations for an electric impact? plugin is fine. a while back I picked up a largish compressor/tank from harbor freight but its good for 85 psi at best, I do better with a breaker bar. I want something electric for really stuck bolts, or an i stuck with air? I've ordered on of the IR IQ electric impacts but it has yet to arrive so won't comment on it. I've heard decent reports about the clarke corded impact - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench?da=1&TC=SRC-impact . I've just a cheap air impact and it works pretty well, but it needs good pressure and flow get really stubborn stuff off.
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Feb 10, 2013 12:38
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In a better help to update my body repair thread, I want to include some common used tools in body repair that most DIY auto repair people commonly have and a few tools that are a "must have". Any one have any good tool suggestions?
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Feb 13, 2013 20:37
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Colonel K posted:I've ordered on of the IR IQ electric impacts but it has yet to arrive so won't comment on it. I've heard decent reports about the clarke corded impact - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench?da=1&TC=SRC-impact . Yea I have an air impact, just a crap pump. if im going to spend the money, it seems like an electric one would be less hassle, assuming it works worth a drat
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Feb 14, 2013 01:30
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BrokenKnucklez posted:In a better help to update my body repair thread, I want to include some common used tools in body repair that most DIY auto repair people commonly have and a few tools that are a "must have". Hammer and dolly set Suction cup dent puller Bondo spreaders e: Angle grinder Wire cup brush I have all of these things, but don't know how to use any of them properly and am basically a chimp with a rock the few times I've tried using the hammer and dolly set. I have successfully popped dents out with the suction cup at least. Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 07:02
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If you want to learn body work, go here: http://autobody101.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=5 I learned a lot from them, and there forum is very active with professionals who want to help newbies.
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Feb 14, 2013 16:26
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BrokenKnucklez posted:In a better help to update my body repair thread, I want to include some common used tools in body repair that most DIY auto repair people commonly have and a few tools that are a "must have". I have the harbor freight stud gun, an electric d/a sander, the thing that makes the little crimp so you don't have to butt weld, and an air board sander. the d/a sander is the most useful one, with the crimpery thing next.
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Feb 14, 2013 18:30
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I don't remember which thread, but using powerful magnets (instead of weld clamps which leave a gap) to align new sheet metal pieces was a pretty neat trick.
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Feb 15, 2013 03:39
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I need to splurge on improving my socket collection. Just want to get some standard 6 point sets that aren't total poo poo. Brand opinions? I'm looking at some SK stuff right now.
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Feb 25, 2013 21:18
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Crustashio posted:I don't remember which thread, but using powerful magnets (instead of weld clamps which leave a gap) to align new sheet metal pieces was a pretty neat trick. drat right it does. That's how I do it. I use those welding triangle things. They seem to be strong enough and are only $10 each from the hardware stores / chain automotive stores.
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Feb 25, 2013 22:02
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Moxie Omen posted:I need to splurge on improving my socket collection. Just want to get some standard 6 point sets that aren't total poo poo. Brand opinions? I'm looking at some SK stuff right now. If you ask 10 people you'll get 11 different answers. Sockets are pretty universally pretty great from just about everybody. I've got a ton of Craftsman, which I'm happy with. I've got a set of SK's that live in the car which are very nice, but honestly not any better than the cheaper Craftsman. "Nice" sockets just look prettier, virtually any socket that isn't utter garbage has the same general tolerances and function the same. I use them in the impact for when I need an impact size I don't have, or when I need a standard depth socket for the impact, and I've never cracked one that way. I've never managed to accidentally kill a Craftsman socket. They occasionally die from hammering them onto very heated fasteners which usually ruins them, and then I just go exchange it for a new socket. I love the Craftsman stuff because I can whoop the gently caress out of it. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 22:40
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Biggest thing for me is how hard is it to read the size. I have a bunch of labeled impact sockets and the paint is wearing off them very quickly making it impossible to tell what size they are. I love the anodized ones, I've been slowly replacing my collection with those.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:03
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revmoo posted:Biggest thing for me is how hard is it to read the size. I have a bunch of labeled impact sockets and the paint is wearing off them very quickly making it impossible to tell what size they are. There are sockets with printed labels? I have never ever seen one of those. usually they are stamped into them. That reminds me is there anythin wrong with using impact sockets as normal sockets? I do it pretty often because I prefer 6 sides over 12. I'm not sure if using them is otherwise a bad idea for some unknown reason.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:42
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Totally fine for everyday use. I try to keep mine from getting oily if I use them for non impact work.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:51
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BraveUlysses posted:Totally fine for everyday use. I try to keep mine from getting oily if I use them for non impact work. This, the coating that they (at least the HF sockets) use doesn't really clean up too well, at least compared to chrome. Also they're kind of thick, so they can be kind of clunky. Other than that, go hog wild.
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Feb 25, 2013 23:55
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General_Failure posted:There are sockets with printed labels? I have never ever seen one of those. usually they are stamped into them. Is is that hard to get 6 point sockets there? Both my mastercraft and stanley sets are 6pt. I actually returned a 12pt set because I didn't realize it was 12pt until I got home. I like my stanley ones, but one thing I've found is the black sockets are very easy to lose in an engine bay or in low light. Chrome is much easier to spot when you can't remember where you left that socket. The labels are great though. 
Crustashio fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Feb 26, 2013 |
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Feb 26, 2013 02:27
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The chrome on my 19mm 1/2" Craftsman socket is chipping off. I use it for the lug nuts on my Subarus, so I guess it get used often enough, but gently caress that it shouldn't happen regardless.
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Feb 26, 2013 02:33
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General_Failure posted:There are sockets with printed labels? I have never ever seen one of those. usually they are stamped into them. Impact on regular sockets can crack them/make them explode. I've only ever seen it happen a few times personally. I still use regular sockets with the impact occasionally.
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Feb 26, 2013 05:25
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Hypnolobster posted:Impact on regular sockets can crack them/make them explode. I've only ever seen it happen a few times personally. I still use regular sockets with the impact occasionally. I think you read that backwards. GF was asking if using an impact style socket on a normal wrench instead of a non-impact style socket would hurt the socket, ie the reverse of using a normal socket on an impact wrench
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Feb 26, 2013 05:30
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Oh, yeah I zoned out when I read that. I do that all the time, all my 1/2" 6 point deepwells are impact sockets instead of regular sockets. I guess the extra thickness could make recessed fasteners hard to get to.
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Feb 26, 2013 05:35
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Looks like HF has a great deal on their clicker torque wrench. $10 with coupon. And a bunch of other stuff. I'll be sure to swing by there before the sale ends on Thursday. Hopefully they still have some in stock. http://www.harborfreight.com/oct-tab1.html
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Feb 26, 2013 05:39
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Raluek posted:This, the coating that they (at least the HF sockets) use doesn't really clean up too well, at least compared to chrome. Also they're kind of thick, so they can be kind of clunky. Other than that, go hog wild. I like them because they are nice and chunky and strong. Plus in larger sizes they are generally a lot cheaper than their chrome counterparts. When I need a single socket or whatever I only buy quality ones anyway. I just wasn't sure if I was doing something bad by using them with my bars / ratchets. 6 sided sockets are relatively rare for some unknown reason. It's only personal opinion but I think they are better for torque distribution / avoiding rounding heads. Plus in less than perfect conditions they are a lot easier to keep seated properly.
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Feb 26, 2013 06:25
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General_Failure posted:It's only personal opinion but I think they are better for torque distribution / avoiding rounding heads. Plus in less than perfect conditions they are a lot easier to keep seated properly. That's more than your opinion. It's the absolute truth (more engagement surface). I only use 12 point sockets in tight spots. My "go to" easily accessible sets are all 6 point for that very reason.
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Feb 26, 2013 06:30
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Raluek posted:Looks like HF has a great deal on their clicker torque wrench. $10 with coupon. And a bunch of other stuff. I'll be sure to swing by there before the sale ends on Thursday. Hopefully they still have some in stock.
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Feb 26, 2013 14:49
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Could I use this as a bore scope? That's a great price and I'll be in a town with a Jaycar this week. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QC3383&utm_source=HotPrice&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=PreCatalogueSale2013
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Feb 27, 2013 02:00
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