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Ok, water effects, talk to me. What brands have you guys used and recommend? And where can I get them?
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Feb 27, 2013 07:18
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Crosspost from oath thread. Just finished a squad of deathwing. I really love the new models, but hate macro photos of them since it makes my painting look terrible.      
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Feb 27, 2013 08:06
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Leperflesh posted:I really, really don't want to be "that guy," and I feel terrible because I was on vacation for the last few days and only now caught up with the thread and you've already posted these on your Indiegogo campaign so maybe it's too late. On the contrary my dear Leperflesh. I very much appreciate, value and am grateful for your criticism. The sculpts are not perfect. All the issues you raise are legitimate. Especially with the hand and the eye. Some things I am still learning how to do well. I wager there will always be something to improve at; right now it's most of everything. The campaign is meant to give me the resources to gain experience with the manufacturing aspect (there's some lessons to be had there, I'm sure) and to keep working so I can improve more. No less important is to establish a relationship with my potential customer base. Thanks also for the base tip. I'll get to it.
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Feb 27, 2013 08:22
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Ok, water effects, talk to me. What brands have you guys used and recommend? And where can I get them? Depends on what you want to make. Are we talking about pieces of scenery, like pools, rivers and canals? Or just a little bit on a base? Also, should it be calm water or look like it's splashing about?
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Feb 27, 2013 08:52
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lilljonas posted:Depends on what you want to make. Are we talking about pieces of scenery, like pools, rivers and canals? Or just a little bit on a base? Also, should it be calm water or look like it's splashing about? I'm planning some 40x40mm waterbases. The whole base covered with water with a few sculpted rocks to stand on.
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Feb 27, 2013 09:05
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Buffalo squeeze posted:I'm planning some 40x40mm waterbases. The whole base covered with water with a few sculpted rocks to stand on. I've used Envirotex epoxy resin for larger pools of still water. It takes a while to dry, but it ended up better than the Woodland Scenics water effects (which was not epoxy) that I tried at the same time. If you are in the US I'd check out Scenery Express for various water effects: http://www.sceneryexpress.com/products.asp?dept=1096 If you are doing very deep water you should do it in several layers, but if it's just a base you should be fine with just one go.
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Feb 27, 2013 09:18
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Over the pond in Finland actually, so if you have any northern-europe suppliers please share.
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Feb 27, 2013 09:24
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Over the pond in Finland actually, so if you have any northern-europe suppliers please share. Sorry, but as a fellow Nordic I couldn't find a good place to buy it, so I ordered it from the US. Unfortunately I the parcel was confiscated by customs and I had to pay a hefty fee for some reason. It has only happened with that Scenery Express order, so I have no idea what that was about. I have bought a bunch of scenery materials from UK based Antenociti's Workshop, and while they don't have Envirotex, you could try some of the other model water that they sell. http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargaming-materials-tools/model-water-snow.html
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Feb 27, 2013 09:34
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Dominion posted:It is, if you are trying to do fine detail or very subtle shading. With a good brush you can get down to like 5 psi and really do some crazy stuff, like pencil thin lines or barely perceptible color transitions. But if you just want a solid even coat, 25-30 is where you'll be at. OK, thanks guys. I've wondered why I get speckling with the Iwata. I haven't tried the Renegade at that high a pressure yet, because I'm still getting basecoating down as a technique. Adjusting the air pressure to exact numbers (and so I don't have to go into the closet to fiddle with the compressor) is why I want to get a regulator at my desk (Ken from Badger recommends one with marks every 2 psi but I can't find one like that yet). Bachtere posted:I'm glad you guys like the Orcs. Dude, we love everything you do. Not to get a circle-jerk going but I still show my girlfriend your stuff, just to show her 'look, this can be proper art, not just space men for grown-ups'. (she still rolls her eyes, just not as much) Buffalo squeeze posted:Over the pond in Finland actually, so if you have any northern-europe suppliers please share. Vallejo make a big range of water effects, from self-leveling to sculptable in different oceanic colors (greenish, light blue, dark blue). I haven't tried the ones I got yet, but they're all supposed to dry and harden to a semi-translucent color to get layers like you see in ocean-going ship models.
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Feb 27, 2013 09:49
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Bachtere posted:Question! Echoing the above post. I've had a lot of building with experience with rigid foam insulation lately and it is excellent for terrain (and other stuff).
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Feb 27, 2013 13:10
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Cajun voodoo gator crosseposte        Bad Wrastler pic there since it's sitting in the lgs for a painting comp, and I forgot to take pics at home before I dropped it off.
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Feb 27, 2013 18:41
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Fyrbrand posted:Cajun voodoo gator crosseposte
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Feb 27, 2013 19:52
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Fyrbrand posted:Cajun voodoo gator crosseposte Awesome work. What models are these, and in particular this turtle looking dude?
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Feb 27, 2013 20:42
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MrFlibble posted:Awesome work. What models are these, and in particular this turtle looking dude? WarmaHordes Minions faction, and the turtle dude is an Ironback Spitter.
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Feb 27, 2013 20:46
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I've been asked by a wargaming magazine to do a painting article on how to paint samurai in various scales. The issue will have a Medieval Japan theme, so there will be various introductory articles and battle reports from the period, to sort of showcase is. I'm not completely sure about the best way to present such a broad subject on a limited space, as a printed page is so different from a website as to how many pictures you can cram in it. Right now I'm considering doing two sets, one with 28mm and one with 6mm, as to show a bigger and a smaller scale. Then, I thought about shooting a progress with two miniatures (or strips for 6mmm). One would be a very simplified, "passable at an armslength" standard, as many historical wargamers seem to have quite basic painting abilities. The other one would be a more detailed version, aimed to show off how various pieces of the armour etc. should be painted. For 6mm it would be the difference between a quick drybrush and then some gobs of paint, and painting with actual highlights and stuff. Same goes with basing: quick and dirty, and something more ambitious. Does this sound reasonable? I mostly read painting guides online, where you have as much space and pictures as you want, so I don't have so many good examples to study. What would you guys want to see in a basic painting guide for a subject that you don't know so much about?
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Feb 27, 2013 21:20
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VogeGandire posted:WarmaHordes Minions faction, and the turtle dude is an Ironback Spitter. Speaking of Gators who was it that painted that one in the top hat? I may have some gators to paint soon and I wanted to refer to that guy again.
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Feb 27, 2013 21:45
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Cross post: Did a little bit of progress tonight on the stormlord; blacked of the needed parts and added the decals (still wet with micro set to excuse the shine.) I've give it another coat over of the gloss and do a pin wash next I think.   
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Feb 27, 2013 22:18
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Indolent Bastard posted:Speaking of Gators who was it that painted that one in the top hat? I may have some gators to paint soon and I wanted to refer to that guy again. So a local acquaintence of mine is doing a thing: 
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Feb 27, 2013 22:46
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Schizotek posted:So a local acquaintence of mine is doing a thing: Do you have any more photos of this, especially stuff from when you were in progress.
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Feb 27, 2013 22:48
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These are the only other two he has up atm I'll ask him if he has more. Is there a particular feature you're curious about? 
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Feb 28, 2013 01:43
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lilljonas posted:I've been asked by a wargaming magazine to do a painting article on how to paint samurai in various scales. The issue will have a Medieval Japan theme, so there will be various introductory articles and battle reports from the period, to sort of showcase is. I'm not completely sure about the best way to present such a broad subject on a limited space, as a printed page is so different from a website as to how many pictures you can cram in it. Honestly just pattern it after the old White Dwarf painting articles. They are pretty good as far as layout and explanations go. Then do a sidebar about banner, mon and kanji details.
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Feb 28, 2013 01:53
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FFFFFFFFF. So close to finishing my plane. Varnished the bombs before oil washing and then sticking them on. Varnish somehow causes paint on the big bombs to foam up and strip off. 3rd time I've painted this stupid piece of plastic. I don't even know what the hell happened. It just left the paint as a bubbly holey mess. Actually made me feel ill to look at. Stupid tiny holes.
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Feb 28, 2013 02:16
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Schizotek posted:These are the only other two he has up atm I'll ask him if he has more. Is there a particular feature you're curious about? Did he use a loving monster base for a shield? Jesus that's awesome.
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Feb 28, 2013 02:30
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Bad Munki posted:Guess what came in the mail today. Wondering if there is any update on your adventures into Hirst Molds
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Feb 28, 2013 02:32
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JesusIsTehCool posted:Wondering if there is any update on your adventures into Hirst Molds Oh, no, I've been busy with other stuff mostly, but still trying to make progress. I'd love to start casting like mad, but I want to do a few things, first. First and foremost, I want to get some silicone to make some duplicates. I'd like to do that asap before I start putting any real wear on the molds. There was a website I came across at some point that sold the stuff, it looked perfect and is probably the same stuff hirst uses to make the molds themselves. I lost the site, but I'm sure I'll find it again. However, in order to make some duplicate molds, I also need to get some higher-quality casting material. The plaster is okay, but I want something that'll hold up REALLY well that I can make some masters from. It sounds like tufstone is my best bet, but I'm having a hell of a time sourcing it in Erie, PA. Also, to make those high quality masters, I also need to get a little vibrating table going, which is a cinch, I have all the parts for one, I just haven't been in a hurry because I need the other stuff anyhow. That necessary chain of events in conjunction with work and family and whatnot has slowed the process greatly. However, I did make some great progress cleaning up all the poo poo on my workbench last night, so I at least have a space to work in again. Oof! 
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Feb 28, 2013 04:08
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I just got my first airbrush in the mail today and holy poo poo my world has changed. I can now lay down super smooth base coats in no time, for less paint. I was also successfully able to shade with it, just by lightly spraying super-thin black onto things. It's crazy what an airbrush will let you do for like no effort.
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Feb 28, 2013 04:25
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Oh god, I want one so bad to finish these 110 Termagants and Hormogaunts.
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Feb 28, 2013 04:35
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Lethemonster posted:FFFFFFFFF. How long did you let the paint dry? I had varnish strip paint off models and then read the directions  and saw that they recommend letting it dry overnight.
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Feb 28, 2013 04:42
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Schizotek posted:These are the only other two he has up atm I'll ask him if he has more. Is there a particular feature you're curious about? Mostly the torso, where he looks to have used a dread (and something else) to hide the baby carriage. (seriously chapterhouse could do gangbusters selling a conversion kit)
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Feb 28, 2013 06:24
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, no, I've been busy with other stuff mostly, but still trying to make progress. I'd love to start casting like mad, but I want to do a few things, first. First and foremost, I want to get some silicone to make some duplicates. I'd like to do that asap before I start putting any real wear on the molds. There was a website I came across at some point that sold the stuff, it looked perfect and is probably the same stuff hirst uses to make the molds themselves. I lost the site, but I'm sure I'll find it again. However, in order to make some duplicate molds, I also need to get some higher-quality casting material. The plaster is okay, but I want something that'll hold up REALLY well that I can make some masters from. It sounds like tufstone is my best bet, but I'm having a hell of a time sourcing it in Erie, PA. Also, to make those high quality masters, I also need to get a little vibrating table going, which is a cinch, I have all the parts for one, I just haven't been in a hurry because I need the other stuff anyhow. That necessary chain of events in conjunction with work and family and whatnot has slowed the process greatly. However, I did make some great progress cleaning up all the poo poo on my workbench last night, so I at least have a space to work in again. Oof! The rough thing about making silicon molds is you need a vacuum system to make them. Otherwise you get lots of tiny bubbles in the mold and that is no good. I made my own molds out of Polyurethane which won't leave any bubbles but needs a release agent when casting. It is a much cheaper option and unless you want to use the mold 500+ times it shouldn't matter. If you want I can take some pictures of some of the stuff I made both molds and casts.
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Feb 28, 2013 08:00
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Do they make a Rahzar model in addition to the Tokka one?
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Feb 28, 2013 08:44
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Schizotek posted:So a local acquaintence of mine is doing a thing: I'm not trying to be mean, but that thing looks goofy as gently caress.
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Feb 28, 2013 09:30
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evenworse username posted:How long did you let the paint dry? I had varnish strip paint off models and then read the directions The label on my W&N goop recommends allowing a week for your work to dry before varnishing. ...of course I assume that applies to proper on-canvas paintings, and not man-barbies, so I just give everything 12-24 hours to dry before spraying. 
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Feb 28, 2013 12:35
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OneTrueBru posted:The label on my W&N goop recommends allowing a week for your work to dry before varnishing. It's also probably talking about oil paints.
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Feb 28, 2013 14:15
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Schizotek posted:So a local acquaintence of mine is doing a thing: They're going to have to refit the banner pole so it matches the torso angle (although it looks less wonky in the other picture so maybe it's not attached and just got bumped in this photo). The dreadnought bits really do work well for the torso. Can't decide if I like the cloth parts, needs to be more ragged maybe.
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Feb 28, 2013 14:32
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Sole.Sushi posted:I'm not trying to be mean, but that thing looks goofy as gently caress. I would have used a contemptor chassis myself.
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Feb 28, 2013 15:27
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Cross post from the oath thread. I recently started painting again after a very long break so I'm pretty happy with them. Not the best I have done but I'm getting there.
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Feb 28, 2013 17:49
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They look nice, maybe a little muted for High Elves. Finished more Chaos. Wulfrik the Wanderer.     Command group for my Marauders.   
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Feb 28, 2013 18:59
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I left my stuff to dry for the normal amount of time before varnishing. I think my plane knows I'm going to be selling it so it's trying to sabotage me at every step.
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Feb 28, 2013 20:20
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Do they make a Rahzar model in addition to the Tokka one? Maaaaybe  
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Feb 28, 2013 20:35
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