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War Bunny posted:Yeah, I've never had a problem spraying water under the hood. I would recommend using a good all purpose cleaner rather than Simple Green though. SG is bad for aluminum. Please explain how simple green is ad for aluminium. One of my projects over the next few weeks is cleaning my wheel wells and suspension, and I planned on using SG and a stiff bristle brush.
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Jan 27, 2013 16:09
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I didn't think Simple Green was really bad for anything as long is it was sufficiently diluted?
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Jan 27, 2013 16:52
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Simple Green is corrosive to unprotected aluminum and can oxidize it.quote:However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green® product residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation. They do have a Motorsports formulation though that's supposed to be safer on aluminum. http://www.simplegreen.com/products_extreme_motor.php
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Jan 27, 2013 17:31
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Touch up paint question. My car had a few chips on it when I bought it used, my girlfriend's was keyed several years ago after she bought it new (who the gently caress keys a Civic?). Mine: Roof (got some surface rust, spots are bigger than they seem in photo):   Fascia:   Rear bumper (about 1/2" diameter, fairly deep chip):  Hers:   The touch up paint process looks like it's fairly involved. Does one have to go through the full sanding, buffing, etc, or is there another way? What kind of results have you guys seen after DIY?
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Jan 28, 2013 16:52
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I've used https://www.drcolorchip.com/ with pretty good success. Not too much effort either, maybe 15 minutes of my time for two different spots. If you do pick up a kit, make sure to get some extra brushes.
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Jan 28, 2013 16:55
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I read back a couple pages and didn't see anything, so does anyone have opinions about the Griot's Garage 6" random orbital polisher? Seems pretty awesome - 25ft cord available, includes the hook and loop pad already, and has a more powerful motor than the PC in the OP (7A vs 4.5A). It's not too much more expensive than the PC either. I'm looking to get a proper polisher for the spring, and was going to jump on the PC when I came across this one, and now I don't know which to get. Not too much out there about this yet, since it seems it was only released in November of last year.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:02
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Seems like the 3rd gen GG6 is internally the same as the 2nd gen GG6, just the power and speed switches have been moved, and some other minor ergonomic changes. Before I handled one, I thought the power switch on the side would be an issue, but after using it, I have no issues with it at all. I have an old (pre XP) PC7336 and the speed dial is in the same place as the 2nd gen GG6 as well. If the internals are indeed the same, then I'd assume it is subject to the same build quality complaints that seem to affect the 2nd gen. I can't really speak to the actual quality of the included backing plate, but it looks and feels cheap on the 2nd gens. The included BP is super hard compared to the commonly available flexible BPs. I already had some backing plates, so I took it off and replaced it immediately. Most people seem to prefer using 5.5 inch pads instead of 6.5 inch pads; Phil at DD sells 5.5 inch kits and the Uber/Buff and Shine pads are great. Advantage of the PC is that you can probably get it serviced, possibly locally. People also claim the PC is a workhorse and great to have around when the GG6 inevitably dies at an inopportune time. And nobody cares about these anymore because everyone is busy drooling over the Rupes lineup.
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Jan 29, 2013 08:00
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Those rust spots need to be resprayed . There is no easy way of saving that paint.
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Jan 29, 2013 08:32
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Scott808 posted:Seems like the 3rd gen GG6 is internally the same as the 2nd gen GG6, just the power and speed switches have been moved, and some other minor ergonomic changes. Before I handled one, I thought the power switch on the side would be an issue, but after using it, I have no issues with it at all. I have an old (pre XP) PC7336 and the speed dial is in the same place as the 2nd gen GG6 as well. If the internals are indeed the same, then I'd assume it is subject to the same build quality complaints that seem to affect the 2nd gen. That's about what I was getting, just some ergo improvements based on feedback. Hadn't read much about quality / durability problems though (with either one), guess I need to read some more. Backing plate I'm not too worried about, since those can always be swapped out, and it seems I'd need to do the same with the PC anyway. Oh well, I've got some time. I lost my credit card on Friday night, so I can't order anything for a week at least anyway until the new one shows up. 
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Jan 29, 2013 08:47
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ratbert90 posted:Those rust spots need to be resprayed . There is no easy way of saving that paint. That's not true at all. A scratch stick followed by touch up would be fine. That surface rust comes right off with a scratch stick, leaving nice and fresh metal to coat... unless the scale is off and the rust is more than the 1" or so in length that it looks like here: The scratches in the side -- take a magic eraser to them, it'll knock down some of the contrast, then give it a thick wax. It'll never look right, but it'll blend more than it is right now. The bumpers -- touch up.
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Jan 29, 2013 12:14
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EVERYWHERE 
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Uh...wow. I won't be washing my cars with anything else but Dawn, now.  Mere elbow grease and Dawn got me from this:  To this:  Still planning to attack it with clay when I have some time. As an aside... I've lost a fair amount of clearcoat off the hood. Is this something I should be very concerned about? The paint looks OK, there is no rust or flaking/bubbling of actual paint going on. Is clearcoat something I could fix myself, or would that be best left to a professional?
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Jan 30, 2013 20:09
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Powdered Toast Man posted:Uh...wow. I won't be washing my cars with anything else but Dawn, now. Very nice! Dawn should be used only to strip everything off of the car the first time. It eats wax really really well. After that use OPC or D301 diluted to about 10:1 for regular care care. As far as the clear coat, the base paint has been faded already more than likely by the sun, and a respray is your only option to get it to look right again.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:28
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meatpimp posted:That's not true at all. A scratch stick followed by touch up would be fine. That surface rust comes right off with a scratch stick, leaving nice and fresh metal to coat... unless the scale is off and the rust is more than the 1" or so in length that it looks like here: Yeah, I will consent a bit on that. He could glue some sandpaper to a pencil eraser and put the pencil in a drill, that makes a really nice scratch tool.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:30
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Well, I was more concerned with protecting it so it wouldn't get any worse. It's sort of a slippery slope. If I get the entire hood repainted, it might not match the rest of the car.
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Jan 30, 2013 20:30
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I've seen a guy test Opti Coat to prevent further clear coat failure. There's also products that are hand applied self leveling clear. http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/33333-restorfx-real-bullshit.html http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?55159-Wipe-on-clear-coats
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Jan 31, 2013 03:38
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meatpimp posted:That's not true at all. A scratch stick followed by touch up would be fine. That surface rust comes right off with a scratch stick, leaving nice and fresh metal to coat... unless the scale is off and the rust is more than the 1" or so in length that it looks like here: The rust spot is about 1/8th inch x 3/8th inch; the rust is very recent. Is Dr. Colorchip the way to go with touchup paint? I'm wondering if the spot is too big for their system, I also hear their product isn't great on silver cars. blk fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 20:18
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I'm new to car detailing, and the weather around here is fairly poor for a few more months, so I want to start off by address my horribly neglected wheels. I believe they are alloy (1996 Toyota T100). Are they beyond saving? I figured I'd spend a day trying to correct them, and if I can't, I've done half the work in order to get them ready for paint (would probably paint them black).   I've also started doing some research into different products over at auto geek's, to get me primed for when the weather starts to turn. Given that my truck is 17 years old, lives outside 24/7 and is (for all intents and purposes) a work truck, I'm looking at a bare bones process. What are people's thoughts on XMT 360? I've read it can used as a sealant, or followed up with a wax or spray wax. Would this just offer better / longer lasting protection? I'm inclined to use it by itself to start off, than possibly using a wax afterwards as I get better or when I need to get the truck ready for winter. Will claying around paint/rust spots do further damage to the paint? Eventually I'd like to address the paint issues, but want to get more involved in the processes before diving into that. Any tips on restoring shine to Rhino-Liner? Significant rust was developing in one of the wheel wells, and was starting to appear in a the other three, so I had them grinded out and sprayed with Rhino Liner, but it's starting to loose it's luster. I've had the truck for around 5 years. Even though I wash it once/week in the warm months and maybe once/month in the colder months, I've never used any type of product besides car wash soap. That being said, I'm surprised at how well the paint has held up. Does anyone have basic information on the kind of paint used by Toyota in the late 90s? I'm sure the previous owner did a bunch of work on it, and there's alot of scratches / spider webs / swirls visible, but nearly no oxidization. I'll post pictures after a wash.
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Feb 8, 2013 19:07
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Reggie Died posted:I believe they are alloy (1996 Toyota T100). Are they beyond saving? I figured I'd spend a day trying to correct them, and if I can't, I've done half the work in order to get them ready for paint (would probably paint them black). Those are boned. The clearcoat is crazed and there's no way to repair that, short of a complete refinish.
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Feb 8, 2013 19:19
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I'd hit them with some aircraft stripper then paint. That lip might look alright after stripping off the clear and polishing it up.
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Feb 8, 2013 22:54
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So let's say you were stupid and naive and decided to try and strip away the clear coat from your alloy wheels. How would you go about sealing/protecting them? What kind of product would you suggest to polish them up first?
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Feb 10, 2013 23:20
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Reggie Died posted:So let's say you were stupid and naive and decided to try and strip away the clear coat from your alloy wheels. How would you go about sealing/protecting them? What kind of product would you suggest to polish them up first? I'm not so sure that's foolish if the clear coat has failed. There are plenty of older allow wheels that aren't coated. If you want to protect them again I'd say about the best thing would be power coating. It even comes in clear. As far as polishing and prep, that really depends on how bad they are. You may need to start by sanding or grinding for particularly nasty spots and move to progressively less abrasive materials until you get the level of shine you want. You can go nuts and turn them into a mirror finish if you want, but that's probably a bit over the top.
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Feb 11, 2013 00:47
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Would standard carnauba wax be an okay temporarily seal over fresh polish? I was just toying around with two of my wheels, seeing if they were worth fixing as opposed to buying new (used) rims. I have a better idea of what's needed now, and will hopefully throughouly tackle all 4 soon (next week maybe). But for now, just want to seal them so the bare metal doesn't get eaten alive by the elements. I used Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream if that matters.
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Feb 11, 2013 02:21
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Reggie Died posted:Would standard carnauba wax be an okay temporarily seal over fresh polish? My original classic Porsche Fuchs are bare on the lip and all I use is some carnuba to make the brake dust easier to get off. This has held up for 5 years so far (I wax them along with the car a couple times a year). I'm not any sort of expert on the topic, but I can tell you that this works for me.
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Feb 11, 2013 02:28
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Thanks for the help everyone. They didn't turn out perfect (ran out of daylight), but they've given me hope. Hopefully I can get the other two done up ASAP, and finish/touch up these.  After / Before pic
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Feb 11, 2013 03:34
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Any recommendations for cleaning headliner? I know getting it too wet or trying to suck on it is just going to pull it off. I was just thinking of lightly rubbing at some spots with a little bit of some really diluted oxyclean and warm water after checking to make sure it doesn't mess with the color?
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Feb 11, 2013 10:27
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I've had good luck with the spray-foam carpet cleaner that comes in the can. Just hold around the area you scrub and don't get it too saturated. I was able to get 10 years of hair gel off the liner of my DD. 
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Feb 11, 2013 16:56
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Powdered Toast Man posted:I would post a picture of the car, but it's too humiliating at this point how lovely it looks. RainX works too as a FL Pine Sap remover.
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Feb 11, 2013 21:01
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I dunno if I bought the wrong brand or what but aircraft remover doesn't remove poo poo. I tried it on a piece of test sheet metal that I rattlecanned and even after 15 minutes it wasn't coming off. Also it says 'not for use on aircraft.' What the hell?
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Feb 12, 2013 02:44
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revmoo posted:I dunno if I bought the wrong brand.......aircraft remover......it says 'not for use on aircraft.' I just need to quote this for your own edification.
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Feb 12, 2013 04:28
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revmoo posted:I dunno if I bought the wrong brand or what but aircraft remover doesn't remove poo poo. I tried it on a piece of test sheet metal that I rattlecanned and even after 15 minutes it wasn't coming off. Also it says 'not for use on aircraft.' What the hell?
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Feb 12, 2013 06:48
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Headlight question. I've got an 03 Forester that had seriously clouded headlights from spending a decade in Arizona. I used one of those headlight restoration kits (I decided on the Sylvania kit after looking at reviews online), and the headlights look a heck of a lot better, so I'd like to keep them looking that way. Is there any kind of protective film or spray I can apply to the lights to slow down the clouding process this time?
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Feb 17, 2013 00:23
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azflyboy posted:Headlight question. http://www.lamin-x.com/ ? Not sure if this prevents cloudiness.
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Feb 17, 2013 00:30
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azflyboy posted:Headlight question. Meguiar's has a headlight protectant out right now. Almost all the online sites I've seen it on have it for about the same price. My local WalMart has it for a bit cheaper. You'll have to reapply this regularly. Optimum is supposed to be releasing a coating for headlights very soon. If I recall correctly, there will be both a pro and consumer version. Should essentially be permanent, in the same way Opti Coat/Guard is. People have been using Opti Coat on headlights successfully, but Opti Lens is supposed to have more UV protection in it. The other product I'm aware of is Presta RenuLite, which I think has been tested and approved by Ford for restoration of headlights. It uses UV light to cure, so if you do it indoors you'll need a UV lamp, or you can use the sun to cure it, but then you'll be at the mercy of the weather.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:49
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Crustashio posted:http://www.lamin-x.com/ ? Not sure if this prevents cloudiness. I know some people here run it on their headlights after resurfacing them to prevent cloudiness (as resurfacing the lights gets rid of any of the UV protectant layer that was left on the plastic). It seems to work OK and will probably work well to protect against rock chips too. That's my plan once I resurface my headlights at least.
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Feb 17, 2013 03:40
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Scott808 posted:Meguiar's has a headlight protectant out right now. Almost all the online sites I've seen it on have it for about the same price. My local WalMart has it for a bit cheaper. You'll have to reapply this regularly. Thanks. The reviews for the Meguiar's stuff seem to be pretty mixed, but it looks like the RenuLite works really well (even when done by amateurs), so I'll spend the $45 on that.
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Feb 17, 2013 04:21
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Does anyone have experience with Farecla products? The 'Total' and 'G12' specifically. My local paint supply shop strongly recommended them. I'm confident with a rotary.
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Feb 17, 2013 08:08
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Headlight chat: Headlights from the factory have a protective clear coat like paint, so when they become cloudy and you buff them the protective coat is already gone (hence the cloudiness.) However long the clear will last is completely dependent on several things, but a respray is the only way to actually get them to stay clear for a long time again. That said: Opticoat them. That will make them last at least 6 months.
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Feb 17, 2013 08:12
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I haven't detailed a car in ages, my last car never got waxed once and by the time I started to care about it, it was already too late. Now that I have a new car and care about such things, I have been taking care of it. Yesterday I went over with some quick cleaner and man I forgot how tiring it can be going up and down, but gently caress if my car doesn't look brand spanking new. Now the only thing I need is to get some finishing clay to remove some water spots off some of the windows and things will be really sharp looking!
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Feb 24, 2013 23:08
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(Posted in wrong thread and didn't notice.  )What does everyone recommend for a car wash solution that gets rid of water spots? I'm dumping this at-cost repair this weekend (or next), and it is riddled with waterspots. I've cleaned it a few times, but so far the only thing that tends to get rid of them is good old elbow grease. I'd prefer to not spend 10 hours on a car I am making no profit on, but I don't want it looking like a dud, either.  The front, as shown here, was washed with generic soap and polished gently with Quick Detailer. Suggestions? I know some "Back to Black" would do wonders for this car, and I figure I'll pass on that info, but I don't need any more expense thrown at it, really.. Viggen fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 00:10
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Clay bar them off, get some wax on there and be happy.
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Mar 1, 2013 00:19
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