|
I saw a few different recommendations for leather cleaner, but as with anything have also seen negative reviews for them on amazon, and I thought it might be worth asking with a specific car in mind. I've got a '98 Corvette so I'm not sure if it's best to have something specific to whatever fake leather GM used for their seats? I've also got a '12 Optima which has scotch-guarded seats, so I'm also wondering how long scotch-guard tends to last as I assume it'd pointless to leather-treat it with scotch-guard on it. Also it has air-cooled seats with all those perforations, so do I need to watch out for any conditioners that would end up just filling those gaps?
|
#
?
Mar 7, 2013 23:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Just wanted to bump the thread, it's getting nice and warm out now you guys!
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 05:01
|
|
|
Indeed it is! I spent my Sunday afternoon spring cleaning and detailing my car. Washed it with dish soap, clay barred it all over including the windows, washed it again with clean hot water and gave it a healthy coat of good ol' turtle wax. Oh yeah, and autosol on the chrome exhaust tip, of course  I have to say, I was actually surprised at how well the clay worked. It's a 12 year old car and I don't think it had ever even been waxed before I got it. 12 years of dirt and gunk embedded into the paint feels like sandpaper when you start claying, but now the paint feels amazingly smooth, especially now that it's got a healthy layer of wax on it again. I did want to polish it as well, there are a bunch of washing scratches from machine washes, but I'd forgotten to get polish and all the stores were closed. Ah well, next time, I guess. Next up are the exterior black plastics. I think I've heard something about peanut butter working well to rejuvenate those?
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 08:44
|
|
|
davebo posted:Also it has air-cooled seats with all those perforations, so do I need to watch out for any conditioners that would end up just filling those gaps? Actually, I'd recommend most of Ammo's videos, some really good stuff in there. It's the same guy who does the detailing stuff on Drive. Have a look at his other leather/interior videos, he runs through a few different approaches. For leather cleaner, I've found Meguiar's Gold Class to be a good mild one. It's a cleaner/conditioner so it's more of an all-in-one solution, and that does mean it won't get heavier stuff out as well. For a straight cleaner, Gliptone has an excellent reputation, but I don't know if you can get it in the US.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 09:54
|
|
|
Okay people who know how to make paint look good. I have a question. If you have some crappy matte looking paint that rubs off on your fingers (oxidized?) and you want to make it look the best it can within reason what do you do?
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 10:28
|
|
|
Could you give a couple of photos of it? People might have different suggestions depending on the make, year, how far gone it is and so on.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 11:41
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Okay people who know how to make paint look good. I have a question. If you have some crappy matte looking paint that rubs off on your fingers (oxidized?) and you want to make it look the best it can within reason what do you do? http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2013 11:57
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Could you give a couple of photos of it? People might have different suggestions depending on the make, year, how far gone it is and so on. No, sorry. It was more of a general question. I've found myself with cars from the '70s and '80s like that a few times and thought they were a dead loss until I started seeing pictures of what people have done with the original paint. Scott808 posted:http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html That's a good link. Thanks for that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2013 02:39
|
|
|
So I've got some marks like this on my car (that's about nickel sized): What can a cheapskate do to try to clean this up? I'm willing to buy some basic stuff, but an electric buffer is not in the cards. I want to do this by hand. I've tried scrubbing with a soapy sponge and rubbing compound, which didn't seem to do much other than leave weird swirl marks/scratches that I don't know what to do with.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
Jared592 posted:So I've got some marks like this on my car (that's about nickel sized): Sweet Jesus don't ever scrub your paint.  use a clay bar.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 08:05
|
|
|
That looks like clearcoat damage. Not much you can do for it other than keep the paint nourished so it doesn't get worse. Keep it sealed and or waxed and clean, use a car wash product that will condition the paint. If you use a colored wax you can probably hide it a bit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 14:45
|
|
|
Alright thanks. I've come to terms with my daily driver's paint not being perfect, and I've also come around to not giving so much of a gently caress about little dings and dents. A perfect detailed car around here sticks out like a sore thumb, and freaking out about every little bump and bruise gets old when you live in a semi-urban area and see any time in Walmart/Target parking lots rife with ding dongs. Ratbert I know you're not supposed to scrub paint; this was more an act of desperation as that spot is baked-on tree sap. I plead insanity for the duration of the time in which the scrubbing occurred. I was posting more to see if there was a lazy/cheap way to do anything about scuffs/scratches/that sap, which it sounds like there's not really.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 16:03
|
|
|
Tree sap is acidic and will wreck your paint if it isn't removed immediately. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 16:08
|
|
|
I agree with revmoo, that looks like it's etched itself into the clear good and proper. To remove any sap that's still on there, I'd use a claybar, but from the picture it looks like the sap itself has been removed, and it's now just the damaged paint we're looking at? I would try wetsanding it, then use some compound to remove the sanding marks. How effective that would be depends on how deep it's gone in, and if it's actually damaged to the point of coming away from the colour coat, there's not a whole lot to be done.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 18:25
|
|
|
Hmm, unexpected (ok, expected but completely forgotten about) refund cheque for a thing a few months back has appeared. Thinking of grabbing myself a Meguiar's G2 polisher, but I notice the cleanyourcar.com DAS-6 and DAS-6 PRO (850W motor) are cheaper, the regular one significantly so. Would I be paying for the name with the G2, or is it better than the DAS-6 PRO? From what I can see, the main advantage is the "cruise control" to maintain the RPM under loading, which admittedly sounds like a neat trick, but I've never found cleanyourcar to steer me wrong with what they sell. What say you, shiny happy people? No Porter Cable or Griots ones are available in the UK, and I don't trust myself not to totally gently caress things up with a rotary.   Edit: Apprently the DAS-6 PRO is the Griots polisher, just in a UK spec. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Apr 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2013 22:55
|
|
|
I know the paint is ruined for so many reasons. It's also oxidized to the point where the top layer rubs off on my hands and exposes something approximating the original colour. What can I do to save what's left for now? I was just thinking giving it a wash and wax. We're talking circa 1987 Soviet paint here that's all porous and has rust seeping through. The only real solution is a strip, treat and respray but I just want to prolong the life of what's still on there for now. e: forgot to say. the colour is supposed to be "Fawn" 
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 23:36
|
|
|
Well, I would just do the three basic steps here. 1) Wash with dish soap 2) Clay the poo poo out of it 3) Wax the poo poo out of it. That would return it to pretty much the best it can be without using Meguiars #7. ~~*~~*~~edit~~*~~*~~ Meguiars #7 is used on older paint is AMAZING at what it does.   That's the same paint! FlapYoJacks fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Apr 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 23:41
|
|
|
ratbert90 posted:Well, I would just do the three basic steps here. I'm happy with that advice. Where do I find clay bars? I'm assuming it's a special sort for auto detailing. I've just never seen it before in person. But then I've never actually looked because it's only recently after reading threads like this I even heard of it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 23:46
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I'm happy with that advice. Where do I find clay bars? I'm assuming it's a special sort for auto detailing. I've just never seen it before in person. But then I've never actually looked because it's only recently after reading threads like this I even heard of it. Megs sells a claybar kit at Walmart or Harbor Freight. So does Mothers. You can order it online also through amazon or autogeek. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2013 23:57
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I'm happy with that advice. Where do I find clay bars? I'm assuming it's a special sort for auto detailing. I've just never seen it before in person. But then I've never actually looked because it's only recently after reading threads like this I even heard of it. Just about any auto store that carries auto shampoo, polishes and waxes should carry at least a basic clay kit. I bought a real basic kit at a local budget autostore, store brand and everything. It worked perfectly on my car and I only paid like ~35AUD for it. I know Meguiar's make a kit too, you should be able to find it. Mine had the clay, a spray bottle with clay lube (probably just water with some auto shampoo in it), wax, a microfiber towel and obviously a set of instructions. It's really easy and it's fun feeling how the clay just peels off the stuck dirt. The wax wasn't anything special, probably OK, but I used my bottle of lovely mint-green Turtle Wax instead. One tip that you should remember: split the clay in two and only use half of it. You will drop it on the ground and once you do, it's straight to the bin. Do not try to clean and reuse it. Throw it out and use the other half.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 00:03
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Just about any auto store that carries auto shampoo, polishes and waxes should carry at least a basic clay kit. I bought a real basic kit at a local budget autostore, store brand and everything. It worked perfectly on my car and I only paid like ~35AUD for it. I know Meguiar's make a kit too, you should be able to find it. This is most excellent advice that I always forget to give. Also my main method is this: Half the panel, then fold the clay. Repeat.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 00:10
|
|
|
ratbert90 posted:This is most excellent advice that I always forget to give. I remembered it right as I was about to start claying. Half way through, I dropped the clay on the ground, even though I was concentrating hard on not dropping it. On a sunday evening when all the stores were closed. It was such a relief to be able to just go over and pick up the unused half and keep going.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 00:13
|
|
|
I'm doomed. I drop everything and think lanyards and straps are a great invention. Anything stopping me from just doing a dish soap wash for now to get some of the crap off it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 00:50
|
|
|
As long as you'll be waxing it in the near future, nothing wrong with that at all. EDIT: I thought you meant the car. The clay? I'd make sure you pick out any bits of dirt with tweezers, then try washing it to remove anything else. Give it a first use on an inconspicuous area, and have a drat good check that you aren't putting any scratches in that you won't be able to buff out with compound or polish. I'd say include at least some kind of compound in your process, after washing and claying but before waxing. I tend to use Meguiar's, and either their Deep Crystal #3 or Ultimate Compound are reasonable. They also do a Cleaner Wax if you want an "all in one" product, their clay bar kit includes a small bottle of it, plenty to do a car. Remember these basic guidelines when you're choosing what it is you want to do: Washing is removing the loose dirt on the paint Claying is for pulling out embedded particles in the paint Cleaning is cleaning up the surface of the paint itself Polishing is for making it shiny Wax/sealant is for adding protection and giving a final gloss/lustre to the paint InitialDave fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Apr 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 06:15
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I'm doomed. I drop everything and think lanyards and straps are a great invention. Yeah, that will get some of the crap off of it, but nothing like clay will. Clay is cheap and you will be hooked. Also make the clay really flat and get one side wet and squish the wet side into your hand. You are FAR less likely to drop the clay bar if it's stuck to your hand.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 06:51
|
|
|
ratbert90 posted:Yeah, that will get some of the crap off of it, but nothing like clay will. Clay is cheap and you will be hooked. I had a proper look today and it's beyond redemption. Rust showing through the surface all over the place etc. I might try a proper cleaning on the Fairlane though because its paint is pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 09:50
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:I'm doomed. I drop everything and think lanyards and straps are a great invention. Get a claybar alternative like a Speedy Prop Towel - http://www.autoality.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6250&idcategory=35 If you drop it you can wash it off, unlike clay, which really should be disposed of if dropped.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 10:13
|
|
|
Ive used a cheesewire to cut about 10mm off the face of a lump of clay that had an unexpected liason with the ground before- your not going to propel anything that deep into it when you drop it from that height. This was on a 4WD that I didnt PARTICUARLY care about the paint on though...
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 10:31
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Ive used a cheesewire to cut about 10mm off the face of a lump of clay that had an unexpected liason with the ground before- your not going to propel anything that deep into it when you drop it from that height. When I clay, I flatten it out into a pancake. It's not even close to 10mm thick. I also break off small chunks to use, so *if* I drop it, it's just a small bit that has to get tossed; it's not even close to half the bar. People can do whatever they want, but when my bar of clay is less than $10 for the whole thing versus scratched up paint I'll toss the clay.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 10:42
|
|
|
Scott808 posted:People can do whatever they want, but when my bar of clay is less than $10 for the whole thing versus scratched up paint I'll toss the clay. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Apr 14, 2013 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 10:54
|
|
|
I want to thank this thread for helping me spend lots of time and money on my 17 year old work truck... I got the Porter Cable locally, but can't find any pads or backing plates so I'm going to have to order those online. When the sun finally came out, I got impatient and tried using some Ultimate Compound with the white polishing pad that comes with the PC, but it didn't seem to do much; I'm assuming it's because of the pad? Same deal with Ultimate Polish...I was running out of time, so only did one panel (thoroughly by hand). But after waxing, didn't notice much of a difference. Once the pads come in, I'm going to give it another shot. But since most of these specialty items are hard to find locally, I figured I'd also order something a bit more abrasive to remove some of the scratches that the nail test didn't catch on, but are still visible. Any suggestions on something more abrasive than Ultimate Compound that is fairly forgiving for rookies? After waxing, where do spray waxes and wash+waxes come into play? I'm thinking of waxing every 4-6 months, using a spray wax every other wash to help maintain. Does wash+waxes also help maintain wax, or am I better off just using a straight paint shampoo?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I keep them for wheels and so on, but the sentiment's the same. On a Niva, however... Yeah it seems like massive overkill. What I'm thinking I'll do is treat all the rust spots where the paint is missing etc. Give it all a good clean and use it as a testbed for some of the techniques and products like clay bar if I can find one cheap enough to justify it. I've always been frustrated that I can't get the grit off the Fairlane when I wash it so this would make a good no-consequences practice run. I can't possibly make the Niva look any worse. It's a hundred footer currently... if I take off my glasses.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2013 23:08
|
|
|
Reggie Died posted:I want to thank this thread for helping me spend lots of time and money on my 17 year old work truck... Megs 105 for compounding and 205 for polish. Use lake county yellow pads for the 105 and lake county white for the 205. Wash them regularly and only use three to four pea sized drops on each pad at a time. If you put too much compound on a pad it will clog the foam and won't cause a good cut. As far as washes and waxes go a spray wax is really great to use once every other week or so. Also on your initial wax I tend to leave it on overnight to really make it stick. Make sure you foam the car as well when you wash and use a wax safe soap also.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2013 07:40
|
|
|
So remember how I mentioned not bothering with little defects on my daily driver? Well, I was off on a bike ride and left my car in front of my friend's house in his development. His neighbor across the street started backing out his Camry, and apparen tly either a brain fart or some other sort of fart occurred, and his car rolled all the way down his somewhat-steep driveway and smacked into the rear left of my car, thankfully entirely within the bounds of the rear bumper. I've got a little bit of paint loss, which I'll just touch up as best I can with some touch-up paint, but as for the scuffs, should I just use rubbing compound and leave it at that, or is there something I should apply after I remove the scuffs with rubbing compound?
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 18:12
|
|
|
Compound is likely a good first step, but my preference is to try some bug & tar remover first, particularly if it's largely black marks from bumper/tyre scrapes. You definitely want to get some wax on there after using compound etc though. And then you'll have the "one clean spot" problem...
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2013 19:09
|
|
|
Clean it and clay it first. The clay may take out the scuff marks. If they don't, megs 105/205/wax combo on lc yellow/white pads will do the trick.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2013 07:58
|
|
|
I got a new car a few weeks ago and yesterday I parked under a tree that deposited droplets of what I assume to be tree sap all over the car. It looks like rain drizzle on the windshield except that it doesn't come off easily. I don't have time until next week or so to really give it a good wash... What can I do in the meantime to me sure it doesn't eat into the paint/clearcoat? It's also going to rain for the next few days... Any harm in leaving it outside and hope the sap will soften or come off in the rain?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2013 21:51
|
|
|
Sap is acidic, get it off as fast as possible, either with Tar-X or soaking a washcloth in hot scalding water and dawn and then letting that sit for an hour or so on the sap itself.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2013 21:53
|
|
|
ratbert90 posted:Sap is acidic, get it off as fast as possible, either with Tar-X or soaking a washcloth in hot scalding water and dawn and then letting that sit for an hour or so on the sap itself. I just went back out to try and wipe some more of it off... It seems today's rain was able to get 90% of it off. THANK GOD. I'll never park under a tree again
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2013 22:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 16, 2024 16:44 |
|
|
Tree sap in the middle of summer is ridiculous. It's either the stickiest substance known to man, or some kind of diamond-hard indestructible dried snot. Pine trees come with the added bonus of those drat needles in all the nooks and crannies, jammed in the window and door seals, getting trodden into the carpets and burrowing themselves in there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2013 23:27
|
|