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I had a chance today to fondle the display models at the local Future Shop. They were pretty close to barren, in several departments but especially Car Audio, so there wasn't much to play with. Several Sony models, none of which had a pause button (I still can't get over this. It's weird. Why no pause button?), one JVC unit and one Alpine unit. The JVC was nice but, again, no pause button. The Alpine was about as nice overall as any of the others, but DID have a play/pause button. So I guess I'm shopping for an Alpine head unit. Are they especially difficult / easy / unusual to install? I'll be looking for an entry-level single-DIN CD-player/receiver/MP3 player with front-mounted USB - the one I saw in the store was $140 so that's the kind of price range I'm looking.
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Mar 17, 2013 02:24
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Question: The guy that owned my Audi before me jacked around with the audio, added an amp and new head and a small battery(?), and while it works sometimes it just randomly sequels really loudly until I can turn off the head. Ideas? Honestly I'm tempted to rip all the poo poo he put in out.
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Mar 17, 2013 02:36
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ExecuDork posted:So I guess I'm shopping for an Alpine head unit. Are they especially difficult / easy / unusual to install? A basic head unit (by basic I mean no video, no navigation, no backup camera, etc - just music) will install pretty much the same, regardless of brand. The wiring has been standardized for ages - you just have to match the wires from the stereo to your adapter harness, which will have the same wire colors. The only notable difference is some factory wiring doesn't provide a ground, so you may have to run a ground wire from the head unit to something metal (usually a dash brace) - some car makers ground the head unit through either the antenna or the stereo body. My old Nissan, for example, grounded the factory head unit through the mounting screws. A ring terminal on the ground wire, secured under one of the mounting screws for the mounting kit, took care of that. Alpine makes an excellent head unit, if not slightly more expensive than a comparable Pioneer. Though thinking back, my last Alpine is the only head unit I've had in recent memory that had a pause button. CommieGIR posted:The guy that owned my Audi before me jacked around with the audio, added an amp and new head and a small battery(?), and while it works sometimes it just randomly sequels really loudly until I can turn off the head. Battery, or capacitor? A cap would make sense if the p.o. had subs in there, a small battery really doesn't make much sense at all (usually when you see them, they're similar to a regular car battery in terms of size, and you don't really see that outside of huge systems). Either way, I'd probably pull the head unit and see what got butchered. That sounds more like maybe the head unit itself is taking a crap, but 
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Mar 17, 2013 02:43
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some texas redneck posted:Battery, or capacitor? A cap would make sense if the p.o. had subs in there, a small battery really doesn't make much sense at all (usually when you see them, they're similar to a regular car battery in terms of size, and you don't really see that outside of huge systems). Either way, I'd probably pull the head unit and see what got butchered. That sounds more like maybe the head unit itself is taking a crap, but The head unit is a little mangled, and his wiring job is....botched to say the least. I'm probably going to replace the head unit. Its a small battery, but while I have no clue why he put it in there since he doesn't really have a very powerful (or good) amp/sub in there, it did help keep the battery fresh for 5 months, when I went to pick it up it cranked up like clockwork. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 03:02
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I have a Ford Fiesta with Sync, and I'd rather not touch it. Am I going to have issues installing a subwoofer/amp on it? (Besides lack of space in the trunk.)
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Mar 17, 2013 17:08
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If rebooting or turning off the head unit and turning it on again fixes the issue, you might just want to rip it all out and install your own head unit. That thing could be broken.
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Mar 17, 2013 18:55
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Kachunkachunk posted:If rebooting or turning off the head unit and turning it on again fixes the issue, you might just want to rip it all out and install your own head unit. That thing could be broken. No, usually it comes right back, it'll go from working fine to shrill shrieking until I turn the head off.
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Mar 17, 2013 21:12
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Anyone ever replaced a head unit on a 1990 Chevy/GM truck? I'm wondering if it's one of those things that is easier to let someone else do than do yourself.
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Mar 17, 2013 21:16
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IIRC, you'll have to mount a single DIN stereo where the optional cassette player would normally go (using a mounting kit). You can either abandon the existing stereo, or install an empty cubby where it normally goes. Ordinarily I'd suggest Sonic Electronix or Amazon, but Crutchfield includes installation stuff (harness, mount kit, etc) for free with stereos over $120. And you need enough of their freebies that the premium that Crutchfield charges is more than worth it - here's the list. It's not much more difficult than any other stereo installation, with the main exception being your stereo will be in a different location. If you want to ditch the itty bitty speakers, Q-Logic makes kick panel enclosures that will let you mount up to 6.5" speakers. A friend had them in his 92 C/K, they fit perfect and matched the interior decently. Of course, if you go that route you'll need to pull new wire from the head unit to the kick panels, but that's pretty trivial. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Mar 17, 2013 |
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Mar 17, 2013 21:29
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I just installed a new headunit, and realized that during my previous install I labelled all my speaker wires and RCA cables. I'm so happy we my 5-years-ago self. Protip; label your wires!
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Mar 17, 2013 22:02
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J-udy posted:I have a Ford Fiesta with Sync, and I'd rather not touch it. Am I going to have issues installing a subwoofer/amp on it? (Besides lack of space in the trunk.) Line out converter or an amp that will take high power speaker inputs.
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Mar 18, 2013 04:28
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some texas redneck posted:IIRC, you'll have to mount a single DIN stereo where the optional cassette player would normally go (using a mounting kit). You can either abandon the existing stereo, or install an empty cubby where it normally goes. Yeah, I have Ye High Ende GM radio for Ye Olde Trucke, which means I have the radio over by the steering wheel and the tape deck/EQ (which isn't loving DIN) in the dash, so I know I need a lot of added parts, sadly, My thing is I'm wondering if it would be easier to let someone else deal with it, since it looks like I have to pull the dash almost completely apart to install it. I have the extra cab, so I think there is speakers back there as well. And from the look of it, I'm better off to get a deck with a remote because it doesn't look like the deck is that easy to get to when mounted in the middle of the loving dash.
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Mar 18, 2013 06:23
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Hello, I want to put more bass in my 1994 Buick Century, but I don't know what an amplifier is. Is there any way for me to do this without electrocuting myself? tl;dr: Are there any guides/deals? Sincerely, Music-illiterate 12-string guitar owner
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Mar 22, 2013 19:52
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InterceptorV8 posted:Yeah, I have Ye High Ende GM radio for Ye Olde Trucke, which means I have the radio over by the steering wheel and the tape deck/EQ (which isn't loving DIN) in the dash, so I know I need a lot of added parts, sadly, My thing is I'm wondering if it would be easier to let someone else deal with it, since it looks like I have to pull the dash almost completely apart to install it. I have the extra cab, so I think there is speakers back there as well. And from the look of it, I'm better off to get a deck with a remote because it doesn't look like the deck is that easy to get to when mounted in the middle of the loving dash. The mount kit I linked includes a center piece replacement that has a single DIN opening. And yeah, it's a pain in the rear end to reach it while driving. For both driver and passenger.
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Mar 23, 2013 05:49
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BombermanX posted:Hello, You can't electrocute yourself with automotive voltage, but you can pass a shitload of current through jewelry, so take off any rings or bracelets before starting work. It won't shock you it'll just heat up and burn through your flesh to the bone. Start by reading all the guides on crutchfield.com and you'll have all the info you need. That or google car amp installation and terms like that.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:18
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Following up on that, disconnect the battery before you do anything. Make drat sure you put a fuse right at the battery (any amp wiring kit should include a fuse holder). And use grommets wherever the wire goes through metal. Such as where it passes through the firewall. Because  fire is usually not the desired outcome.Read up a bit, get some very basic DC knowledge (just the concept of how positive and negative works with a DC system). Have your mind blown when you realize that you can hook the negative (-) cable from your amp to the car's body/chassis instead of running another wire to the battery.
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Mar 23, 2013 08:14
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some texas redneck posted:The mount kit I linked includes a center piece replacement that has a single DIN opening. Passenger should never have to touch the radio anyways 
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Mar 23, 2013 14:43
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord VP with a single disc player. I want to connect my Android phone and MP3 player to my stereo. I've tried a cassette deck adapter and a FM transmitter and both have left me very disappointed. What other options are there?
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Mar 24, 2013 20:31
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Mouse Cadet posted:What other options are there?
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Mar 24, 2013 20:37
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Lowclock posted:Is there an option for a factory CD changer? You may have either a pair of RCAs or something like a DIN cable hidden in the trunk that will give you pretty direct audio into your deck. Might have to rig something up to be able to change to the CD changer input. I don't know, google. I found this http://enfigcarstereo.com/HON_AUX_DMX_V1.html which looks like its exactly what I need. If this looks legit I could probably have one of my car savvy friends help me wire it up.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:55
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Mouse Cadet posted:I found this http://enfigcarstereo.com/HON_AUX_DMX_V1.html which looks like its exactly what I need. If this looks legit I could probably have one of my car savvy friends help me wire it up. Install looks pretty simple https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Cs81V84AUo
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Mar 24, 2013 20:56
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You could do an in-line FM modulator, which connects to the back of the stereo - they generally do a decent job, since they actually interrupt the normal antenna connection (thus, little to no interference). To be honest though, I'd just replace the head unit. e: oh wow, didn't realize that was still available. It just plugs into the back of the stereo, the hard part is getting to it. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter.
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Mar 24, 2013 20:58
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some texas redneck posted:
Ok so it looks like that would be way to go if I don't want to replace the entire unit. The video makes it look like install isn't that bad but I don't know a thing about car audio so I might be getting in over my head. Mouse Cadet fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Mar 24, 2013 |
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Mar 24, 2013 21:02
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edit: nevermind, looks like you figured it out.
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Mar 24, 2013 21:06
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Mouse Cadet posted:Ok so it looks like that would be way to go if I don't want to replace the entire unit. The video makes it look like install isn't that bad but I don't know a thing about car audio so I might be getting in over my head. It really is just a single plug to the back of the stereo, then you plug the 3.5mm to RCA cable into that. Then plug the 3.5mm plug into your phone. All bets are off if you have the in-dash changer, but since it's a VP (halfway between a DX and LX, DX being bottom of the line), I really doubt you have the in-dash changer.
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Mar 24, 2013 21:39
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Yeah that should work. Seems kind of pricy, but still a little cheaper than replacing the deck.
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Mar 24, 2013 23:36
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Hey again, I'm the guy who is going to be doing the tablet install in my 2004 F150. My alternator AND battery happened to go out at the same time which cost about $600 (which was my budget for most of this install), so the install was put on hold while we recouped our losses. I currently have a 10" Kicker sub http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR102/Kicker-10CVR102.html with a ~300 watt RMS amp running it. I'm still on the stock stereo, and I'm using a Scosche line out converter to hook the speakers up to the amplifier. Anyway, I just found one of these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12020_Alpine-MRP-F300.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=18244268&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1 open box/floor model at bestbuy for $117.99 + tax, and I picked up another Scosche amp kit from walmart as well. I was weary the amp kit was going to be junk, but it's measured truly with a decent shield on it. It's probably not as flexible as the really nice kits, but it hasn't been a problem yet. I'm going to be picking up the amp today (with wife's approval  ), and probably a set of components.Last but not least I'll be going with http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46587_NVX-XEQ7.html for my line-out, and line driver. I'll probably pick up the tablet today or Friday as well. I have two quick questions though. Back when I was planning this, I figured out how I was going to hook the speaker wires up as an output. Thinking about it again, I can't remember how I can hook my speaker wires up to RCA cables. I'm not sure if my line-out converter will work as a line-in as well. Someone mentioned that I can use a good factory harness connector to get to RCA connections, but I can't find anything like that. I've got some t-splices so I don't really care if I have to splice a few factory wires. Uninstalling everything would be as simple as cutting the extra speaker wire I've ran. The second question is, does anyone have a recommendation on a decent set of 6.5" component speakers in the sub $150 range?
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Mar 26, 2013 20:41
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You'll use your current line out converter between your stock head unit and the line driver. (Speaker outputs-> converter->rca inputs of line driver) From the tablet, you'll go to the other set of rca inputs on line driver or to the 3.5mm input. Depending on the output on the tablet, you'll need a 3.5 male to 3.5 male cable, a 3.5 male to rca cable or just a straight rca cable if it outputs that (doubtful). From line driver to amps will be straight rca cables. Hope that helps. I can't give much if a reco on current components. Been out of the game too long.
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Mar 27, 2013 04:54
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Knyteguy posted:The second question is, does anyone have a recommendation on a decent set of 6.5" component speakers in the sub $150 range? If you go scratch & dent these are close, I use them in my car and they're pretty impressive. Good clean sound, good bass. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html Also crutchfield is having a sale on infinity components so maybe surf those and see what works. I was very impressed with infinity kappas when I ran them except the tweeters are very, very bright.
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Mar 27, 2013 17:31
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You can get those Polks new for $150 from Sonicelectronix or $105 from random Amazon retailers. They seem to be a default recommendation for cheaper but still good components.
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Mar 27, 2013 18:53
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LloydDobler posted:I was very impressed with infinity kappas when I ran them except the tweeters are very, very bright. Along that line, I'm not sure if my Infinity tweeters have mellowed with use or just rendered me deaf in the upper register. I'm assuming the former because I can still hear flyback transformers. They're still bright, but I fully expected my eardrums to rupture the day I installed them.
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Mar 27, 2013 22:48
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Thanks to this thread I went ahead and did my first headunit install ever. I installed this into this to replace this. I wanted bluetooth and I need to get rid of the laser light show that was the pioneer. The previous owner also hacked into the harness like a prick, but using shrink tubing, a wire stripper and good ol' color matching the Blaupunkt went in painlessly and easily, and looks a hell of a lot nicer. I'll think about tackling the issue of replacing the amp+everything else in this car later, but right now I'm quite pleased with the difference. Being able to stream and skip tracks on my phone with the head unit itself is rad.
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Mar 28, 2013 02:11
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KakerMix posted:I'll think about tackling the issue of replacing the amp+everything else in this car later, but right now I'm quite pleased with the difference.
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Mar 28, 2013 17:59
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Molten Llama posted:Along that line, I'm not sure if my Infinity tweeters have mellowed with use or just rendered me deaf in the upper register. Kappas are the only speakers I've ever run a negative treble setting in the head unit on. But good god they sounded nice when dialed in.
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Mar 29, 2013 06:44
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LloydDobler posted:If you go scratch & dent these are close, I use them in my car and they're pretty impressive. Good clean sound, good bass. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6501/Polk-Audio-db6501.html Thanks I ended up getting the Polks. I have them installed in one door right now, gonna do the other tomorrow. They sound about 10 times better than the stock speakers.  On that note I finally got the tablet in the truck. It's been a ton of work (mostly installing the amps and speakers). I ended up getting a ported box for the subwoofer as well, which sounds so much better than the too small sealed box I've been running it in since January. I'll post some pictures of everything either tomorrow or Sunday. Also I drove off with the door sill panels on top of my truck, so those are now missing permanently. Hopefully I can find a pair at a local salvage yard
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Mar 30, 2013 07:26
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ExecuDork posted:Did Panasonic stop making car audio? Speaking of which, that's what brings me to this thread. I have a 2013 Jetta TDI with the Fender Premium Audio system and for the most part, it's pretty good (Much nicer than the Bose Premium system that was in my old '03 Acura TL). However, I'd kinda like a bit more bass, particularly on the lower end. The existing sub is perfectly fine for the majority of Rock/Metal type of music that I listen to most often, but occasionally I'll listen to something electronic or even Rap and it just doesn't hit as hard as I'd like. So, I'm looking for something that will hopefully not take up a shitload of space (although the trunk is pretty spacious) and, if possible, be a drop in replacement for the existing sub. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that is going to happen, as I think it's an odd size, like a 7" or something. I think I'd be pretty happy with an 8" with a long throw or perhaps a 10"? Any suggestions on a good amp/sub combo for this system? Also, I'm not terribly impressed with the doors in this car. I think they skimped on the sound deadening material or something, as they tend to rattle a bit when listening to music at moderate volume. I'm pretty sure it's not the speakers, since, if I put my hand on the little door pockets (map pocket?) it seems to stop rattling.
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Apr 5, 2013 00:20
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So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html?tp=2001 Anyone ever use one of these? Do they actually work well, or should I forget about trying to make my stock unit work with these speakers? If there is another way to do it I'm all ears. [edit] Actually, this looks like a better but more expensive option: http://www.amazon.com/LC2i-Audiocon...io+control+lc2i Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Apr 5, 2013 |
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Apr 5, 2013 05:40
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leica posted:So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this:
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Apr 5, 2013 08:44
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leica posted:So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this: The only way aftermarket speakers would "overwork" a stock HU is because of an impedance mismatch. The RMS spec on speakers indicates how much they can handle, not how much they take to work.
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Apr 5, 2013 09:11
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leica posted:So I've been thinking about keeping the stock head unit in my '97 Miata because it sounds pretty good and I want to keep things as low key/stealth as possible. The problem is I bought some Alpine 6.5 coax speakers with 80 watts RMS and I'm afraid they may over work the stock "amp" if you want to call it that.....I'm not even sure how powerful, if at all, the stock amp is, so I'm going to need some sort of line output converter like this: Yeah, the only time you're gonna have an issue is with Bose stuff; they use super low-impedance speakers with head units to match, so swapping a standard stereo into one of those systems would cause issues. On your car, the stereo won't push enough power to utilize the speakers to their fullest, but you won't have an issue with current overdraw or anything like that.
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Apr 5, 2013 19:37
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