|
kastein posted:Those only work for you, stop trying to trap him in an even deeper hole. That's not nice. I can send him a set of blessed EZ-Outs that have been washed in the tears and sweat of a witch doctor mechanic. Only 9.95 plus shipping  \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Grumbletron 4000 posted:Maybe I'll just start glopping an oil rag against it when I do the oil. Can't hurt I guess. Besides, its not exactly showroom under there anymore. Rhino liner it.
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 04:20 |
|
|
chrisgt posted:If you loosen your oil pan bolts a turn or two, it'll solve any rust on the pan forever Maybe I'll just start glopping an oil rag against it when I do the oil. Can't hurt I guess. Besides, its not exactly showroom under there anymore.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 02:56
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:MAN VS BOLT This is epic. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 03:29
|
|
|
Root Bear posted:Another kind of oil pan mishap; rust from the inside-out! Not the first Focus I've seen this on - my brother's 2003 had the same issue, and my friend's wife's 2004 is going to need a new pan in the near future for the same thing. Makes me wonder if Ford cheaped out on the pans after 2002 - the pan on my '02.5 has the typical layer of light surface rust here and there but no terminal rust cancer like that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 09:02
|
|
|
What's that son? You're telling me driving along the freeway at 70mph in 4-Hi isn't a good idea?
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 09:28
|
|
|
Good thing I pulled the new alternator out of the box to check it before walking out of the store. The entire casing was cocked and the pulley was jammed and unable to spin.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 09:48
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Good thing I pulled the new alternator out of the box to check it before walking out of the store. The entire casing was cocked and the pulley was jammed and unable to spin. Looks like somebody either A) dropped it off a ten-foot stock shelf in the back of the store and decided to put it back before anyone noticed, or B) got a little too excited torquing that last bolt. Memento1979 posted:What's that son? You're telling me driving along the freeway at 70mph in 4-Hi isn't a good idea?  I owned a 4WD and occasionally ran it in 4-hi at 30-35mph. I know that's a safe speed and shouldn't cause any damage, but this picture scares me so much that if I ever own another 4WD, I probably won't even use it out of fear.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 14:25
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Good thing I pulled the new alternator out of the box to check it before walking out of the store. The entire casing was cocked and the pulley was jammed and unable to spin. I can confirm this is the expected quality of an AutoZone rebuild.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 15:22
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Good thing I pulled the new alternator out of the box to check it before walking out of the store. The entire casing was cocked and the pulley was jammed and unable to spin. 'Triple Tested' 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 15:55
|
|
|
Voltage posted:'Triple Tested' Hey now, it never said 'Triple Passed'. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 16:33
|
|
|
I guarantee you that it got dropped. You can see the dull, smooth aluminum on the right corner. That's what you get when you pay $9/hour.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 16:55
|
|
|
Cenodoxus posted:
35mph on a loose surface like sand or loose gravel/dirt is fine, 35mph on pavement or anything grippy will blow up a part-time transfer case.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 18:31
|
|
|
EightBit posted:35mph on a loose surface like sand or loose gravel/dirt is fine, 35mph on pavement or anything grippy will blow up a part-time transfer case. It's not the speed, it's the turns that cause a difference in speed between the front and rear axles. Same reason we have differentials in the axles, full-time systems have one in the middle (or a viscous coupling or clutch as they tend to be on most FWD-based AWDs. Unless your tires are very differently worn or mismatched speed alone shouldn't be an issue in high range. That said it obviously doesn't make the slightest bit of sense to have a part time 4WD engaged on the road in conditions that wouldn't also justify slowing down.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
A lot of people don't know the difference between 4wd and awd.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 22:31
|
|
|
Godholio posted:A lot of people don't know the difference between 4wd and awd. Or the difference between full-time and part-time 4wd. I have to explain it often when people see the shift lever.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 23:01
|
|
|
amenenema posted:Or the difference between full-time and part-time 4wd. I have to explain it often when people see the shift lever. I don't understand the appropriate uses for most AWD or 4WD systems, I normally leave the transfer case in the "it's always been here" position on HMMWV's. According to the Army, I have a license on that vehicle 
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2013 23:18
|
|
|
Got the caliper to a NAPA with a machine shop up in Somerdale. Guy looked at it, said he'd do what he could, didn't sound very upbeat, and quoted $20-$40 including parts to Heli-Coil it. Left it & picked up pads (which were hilariously wrong) PB Blaster, anti-seize compound, four dealer-sourced caliper bolts ($41! Christ!) and stuff for an oil change as it was 1.5 quarts low and was a bit dank. Shop called at 4PM with apologies...that it wouldn't be done until the morning!  Now I'll have an extra caliper to sell... So I got going on the other side. Rust seems to be the biggest factor here:   Post-hosing:  Bonus Auto Zone fail: 
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 03:27
|
|
|
wolrah posted:It's not the speed, it's the turns that cause a difference in speed between the front and rear axles. Same reason we have differentials in the axles, full-time systems have one in the middle (or a viscous coupling or clutch as they tend to be on most FWD-based AWDs. Or if you're rolling around with 2-3 tires hilariously low on air, like many people I see around here. Speed also affects it - the faster you're going, the more the transfer case heats up, especially in 4x4. Heat = melted shift fork pads and stretched chains if it gets too extreme. If I need 4x4 on the highway, I'll generally use the least traveled lane for a variety of reasons. It's more fun, it's more predictable since there's generally an even layer of snow (instead of patchy snow, lumps, piles, and random ruts from everyone else sliding all over the place and changing lanes) and it provides enough slip that even in part-time, the transfer case isn't going to see as much stress as if I was transitioning constantly from wet pavement to slush and snow. Obviously, this also means slowing down.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 03:29
|
|
|
wolrah posted:It's not the speed, it's the turns that cause a difference in speed between the front and rear axles. Same reason we have differentials in the axles, full-time systems have one in the middle (or a viscous coupling or clutch as they tend to be on most FWD-based AWDs. Your front and rear tires wear at different rates and you'll almost always have different speeds on their driveshafts, leading to breaking things. You also don't drive a perfectly straight line forward, the road isn't perfectly flat, you have to correct for road crown and wind etc. Engaging a part-time transfer case on a dry, grippy road is never okay.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 03:31
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Good thing I pulled the new alternator out of the box to check it before walking out of the store. The entire casing was cocked and the pulley was jammed and unable to spin. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 07:58
|
|
|
Alternator chat: Who decided water cooled alternators were a good idea? I know cars have more and more electronics on them these days but is a beefy fan really not enough? Also whatever happened to external fans on alternators? I figure you'd want as much cooling as you can get and one internally and one externally would pull more air than just an internal fan but I don't design alternators for a reason.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 08:01
|
|
|
Nice Blazer. When mine went out, it shot ball bearings out the back like birdshot.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 08:18
|
|
|
Previa_fun posted:Alternator chat: Who decided water cooled alternators were a good idea? I know cars have more and more electronics on them these days but is a beefy fan really not enough? Have you seen the windings on an alternator that is water-cooled? I haven't, but I imagine that the thing is giant brick that you can't force air through; so you use water, which can carry away much more heat in a given volume.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 08:23
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Got the caliper to a NAPA with a machine shop up in Somerdale. Guy looked at it, said he'd do what he could, didn't sound very upbeat, and quoted $20-$40 including parts to Heli-Coil it. Yeah those are 06-07 WRX front pads. The part number for the STi will usually have a "1001" somewhere in it as that is the d-plate number. Rears are 961. And why are you putting duralast pads on an sti?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 08:32
|
|
|
jamal posted:And why are you putting duralast pads on an sti? Free replacements for life?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 18:14
|
|
|
I had the friction material come completely loose on a set of Duralast ceramic pads. Trashed the poo poo out of the rotor too. Autozone gave me new pads and rotors gratis. That was awhile ago and the replacements are doing fine. I chalk it up to bad QC on the old set. If it happens again I sure as poo poo wont be getting brakes at Autozone anymore.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 23:29
|
|
|
Previa_fun posted:Alternator chat: Who decided water cooled alternators were a good idea? I know cars have more and more electronics on them these days but is a beefy fan really not enough? Water cooling gives you better heat-removal characteristics (since water has a much higher specific heat), makes packaging the alternator easier, and allows for more power in the same package. I work on large industrial motors; and moving to water-cooled stators (and in some cases air-water cooled rotors) has made these motors significantly smaller, with higher overload capacity and lower maintenance requirements. Failures are reduced (since heat is a large cause of failure), they waste less energy in cooling, and while a water leak tends to cause catastrophic failure, they don't leak very often.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2013 23:47
|
|
|
Buddy of mine who works on train engines sent me a new paperweight that arrived today. Weighs around 20 lbs.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 01:25
|
|
|
Devyl posted:Buddy of mine who works on train engines sent me a new paperweight that arrived today. Weighs around 20 lbs. Ok I legit cannot figure out what that used to be. Piston? Rod end cap?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 02:48
|
|
|
Fucknag posted:Ok I legit cannot figure out what that used to be. Piston? Rod end cap? I was hoping someone else would chip in and say what it was. I'm stuck too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 02:50
|
|
|
How can something that is shorter than the ink pen in the background and no more than 3-4" inches tall weigh 20 pounds without either being pure tungsten, lead, or a Meteorite. Even the first two is a stretch.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 02:54
|
|
|
Looks like the wristpin end of a conrod, but I'm not entirely sure.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 03:11
|
|
|
Farking Bastage posted:How can something that is shorter than the ink pen in the background and no more than 3-4" inches tall weigh 20 pounds without either being pure tungsten, lead, or a Meteorite. Even the first two is a stretch. Cast iron.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 03:16
|
|
|
Sorry I left y'all hanging. It's from a V16 rated at 4,400 h.p. & 20,000 ft/lbs. torque. This piece broke off a rod and got mangled in the engine. Here's how it looks normally: Those pink things are urinal cakes for a size comparison. The piece I have is the last 7-8" that's pointing in the air.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 03:19
|
|
|
What the hell is the second set of journals next to the crank journal for? I can't think of anything that would fit in there and be useful without getting smashed off by the crank webs every revolution.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 03:37
|
|
|
kastein posted:What the hell is the second set of journals next to the crank journal for? I can't think of anything that would fit in there and be useful without getting smashed off by the crank webs every revolution. Crosshead or something probably.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 03:45
|
|
|
Devyl posted:Sorry I left y'all hanging. It's from a V16 rated at 4,400 h.p. & 20,000 ft/lbs. torque. This piece broke off a rod and got mangled in the engine. Here's how it looks normally: Is it one of those piece of poo poo GE's? They are pretty notorious for well.. sucking.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 04:07
|
|
|
jamal posted:Yeah those are 06-07 WRX front pads. The part number for the STi will usually have a "1001" somewhere in it as that is the d-plate number. Rears are 961. And why are you putting duralast pads on an sti? Tonight's fun was repeating the shear on the driver's side lower bolt: four applications of PB Blaster didn't budge it (although the upper came out easier): at least now I know it'll cost $25.00 to fix it within one day. The curveball was Subaru selling me the wrong bolts; they are a little shorter and a different pitch than the correct bolts, with a smaller head. Back to the shop & dealer in the AM. As for the cheap-rear end lifetime guarantee ceramic pads, I really don't mind, since they can be changed out without removing the caliper. I'm hoping to have this car done by Saturday at the latest.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 05:23
|
|
|
A friend lost the transmission on his Explorer a few weeks ago, and this just happened to his wife's Malibu.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 05:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 04:20 |
|
|
Boomerjinks posted:A friend lost the transmission on his Explorer a few weeks ago, and this just happened to his wife's Malibu. So a spider gear escaped? Someone needs to warn 14 INCH WHATEVER.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2013 05:38
|
|