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Walked posted:I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility. Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport. From the list of routes 5.7-5.9, it looks like Echo Cliffs might be a better option for you Echo: http://tinyurl.com/beamkqx Malibu: http://tinyurl.com/a9o99uc Manstrocity fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 22, 2013 |
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Mar 22, 2013 17:19
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Manstrocity posted:Haven't been to Echo Cliffs, but I'll throw out a recommendation for Malibu Creek State Park. It definitely has some softer routes and there's a couple of top-rope anchors, but most of it is sport. Cool, thanks. Is there any good LA area climber's coalition or club that's easy to hook up with if I want to find a group to hook up with for a day? We've got PATC (Potomac and Appalachian Trail Club) out here in the DC area which is great; anything similar that way? (Or goons who want to hook up first week of April?)
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Mar 22, 2013 17:24
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PRADA SLUT posted:My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. Meh, it's not really important to let them heal. Just tape them when you're climbing and let them dry out when you're not. They're gonna toughen up eventually. I never get flappers anymore. My problem now is that my cuticles explode from the pressure of full crimps, I even have horizontal cracks in my fingernails. Not a lot that can be done about it. I think a big thing about flappers is inexperienced climbers falling into big jugs, it just rips the skin right off. Once you start climbing better and using tougher holds that's gonna happen less.
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Mar 22, 2013 20:42
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Walked posted:I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility. The Stumbling Blocks in Malibu have a nice range of climbs that both of you can enjoy!
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Mar 22, 2013 22:05
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PRADA SLUT posted:My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. Climb less dynamic routes and focus on your footwork for a week or two. Your hands won't ever really be "better" but your skin will be less likely to tear off.
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Mar 22, 2013 22:36
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:My problem now is that my cuticles explode from the pressure of full crimps Are you climbing in cold and dry air? This was happening to me until I started using a beeswax balm (Carmex or Climb-On or Joshua Tree) on my cuticles after climbing and before bed. Now I have cuticles like a hand model!
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Mar 23, 2013 00:44
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pee posted:Are you climbing in cold and dry air? This was happening to me until I started using a beeswax balm (Carmex or Climb-On or Joshua Tree) on my cuticles after climbing and before bed. You would be exactly right. It doesn't really bother me enough to do anything about though.
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Mar 23, 2013 01:14
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PRADA SLUT posted:My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. Yeah. But I'm the type of guy who would tell ya to take medicine when you're sick or go see a dentist when your teeth fall out.
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Mar 23, 2013 02:28
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Cool thanks for the help everyone! I'll pass the info along 
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Mar 23, 2013 02:42
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PRADA SLUT posted:My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. I climb roughly that much (sometimes more) and I use lotion after I climb - seems to do the trick. Are you sure you're using enough chalk? Slipping a little on the holds is really rough on my hands and makes a huge difference in terms of blisters/calluses.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:14
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For moisturizer I love Burt's Bees Banana Hand Cream and Badger Cuticle Care. Use Burt's on the palms and Badger on the backs of my hands. If you already have big calluses try Mane & Tail Hoof Therapy (I think that's what it's called), it dissolves calluses like crazy.
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Mar 24, 2013 00:18
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Calluses are like armor for your fingers!
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Mar 24, 2013 03:37
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jackchaos posted:Calluses are like armor for your fingers! until you rip the callus and the rest of the pad off as you slip off that hold you didn't quite stick...
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Mar 24, 2013 08:31
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So I was starting to get back into the swing of trad, and had a nice E2 project (crack climbing which I am terrible at) going but unfortunately the UK got beset by a blizzard this weekend, so I went back and attacked it with ice axes and crampons and climbed it. 
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Mar 24, 2013 18:07
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Backcountry has a 20% off one item coupon right now: save20
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Mar 24, 2013 21:57
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bobson posted:until you rip the callus and the rest of the pad off as you slip off that hold you didn't quite stick... Eventually they build up right and make your tips nice and hard.
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Mar 25, 2013 02:32
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So it looks like I'm moving to charlottesville, va come August, and while I know of the big name places a few hours away, what I really want (more like need) to know is what is really local. I've seen there is a gym there, Rocky Top, but if Anyone could give me a clue as to what else is nearby, I'd be eternally grateful, you could even PM me and maybe we can get together if you're in the area!
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Mar 25, 2013 03:18
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What grade should I be climbing before attempting Smith Rock? Is there somewhere to check this? edit: found a guide with routes and grades PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 03:55
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New gym in Philadelphia just opened - It's called PRG East Falls for any of you Philly climbers that live under a rock. The gym is mostly bouldering, with some fun top out stuff and a cave. The walls are only ~20 tall for ropes though, which is a little disappointing. I am looking forward to the lead box being finished so I can do what amounts to extendo-bouldering problems...finally, I'll be able to climb 5.13! ...or you know, v5. Oh yeah, and everything's so goddamn new it's brutal to hold on to, and god help you if you scrape your leg on a corner doing a top-out. Everything is like sandpaper. It does mean those climbs will never be as easy as they are right now though.
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Mar 25, 2013 06:17
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JustAnother Fat Guy posted:So I was starting to get back into the swing of trad, and had a nice E2 project (crack climbing which I am terrible at) going but unfortunately the UK got beset by a blizzard this weekend, so I went back and attacked it with ice axes and crampons and climbed it. That's awesome, where was this? I went sandstone climbing in Sussex yesterday and it was stop-start snowing all the way there and during the climb. Luckily the rock wasn't too bad so we climbed normally, my toes have never been quite so numb!
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Mar 25, 2013 08:35
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Chris where abouts on the southern sandstone did you climb, Fandango wall? Ive climbed there in the rain quite a few times. Got to be so careful the rock is so fragile when its even slightly damp. As crap as southern sandstone is compared to the grin and limestone up north I still have a soft spot for some of it.
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Mar 25, 2013 11:21
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Dumbdog posted:Chris where abouts on the southern sandstone did you climb, Fandango wall? Ive climbed there in the rain quite a few times. Got to be so careful the rock is so fragile when its even slightly damp. No I climbed at Bowles yesterday! It was a good laugh, the rock was pretty much dry just really really cold. Having to kick snow off my shoes before going up! I've only ever climbed indoors and on sandstone, only been climbing a few months. Trying to arrange a weekend climbing in Dartmoor next month though, the rocks there look fantastic.
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Mar 25, 2013 17:03
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So peep this new climbing adventure zone that's being built up in Buffalo. They're converting an old industrial area in to a badass outdoor extravaganza destination. http://gearjunkie.com/rock-climbing-silo-buffalo http://silocityrocks.com I'm so excited for this project to happen. Cybor Tap fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 17:37
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I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions. How many days should I give my muscles to heal when starting out? I used to be a gym rat and swore by the every other day method. Are there any exercises or stretches I could do away from bouldering that would help improve my ability and strength? I noticed that though I had the strength and flexibility to get through some runs that my grip was poor and my muscles fatigued easily. I wish I had got into climbing earlier. It's definitely the most fun I've had exercising
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Mar 26, 2013 16:28
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seventeen posted:I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions. Timing varies depending on the person. I think most climb between two and four days a week, but there are definitely a few people at my gym who do more frequently. Listen to your body, and dont overdo it while starting. Bouldering will gently caress up your hands for a while. Generally I dont like to climb more than two days in a row and more than 4x/week. Yoga for the stretches and exercise question. Otherwise climbing helps climbers. Endurance on those muscles will improve with time and more importantly - technique. Dont gently caress with hangboards or campus work anytime soon.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:35
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seventeen posted:I went to an indoor facility on Sunday and bouldered for the first time in my life. I can't believe how much fun I had. I'm going to be signing up for a monthly membership through them and I've got a lot of newbie questions. If you experience tendon pain, give it a rest for a few days until the pain is gone and you've healed. Your grip's going to be the weakest link at this point, and you can get your fingers around a juggy hold and hang on but you're putting a big portion of your body weight on them and it's a likely place to get injured when you're starting out.
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Mar 26, 2013 18:17
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I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it.
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Mar 26, 2013 18:29
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REI has a 20% off one item sale plus they just sent out their dividend checks for members. I just picked up a Petzl Xion Rope for under 150.
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Mar 26, 2013 21:19
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PRADA SLUT posted:I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it. moleskin should do the trick.
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Mar 27, 2013 02:18
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If anyone in the Boston area is interested, the MIT bouldering wall is holding their annual comp in a couple of weeks. The wall is small, but in the past the best routes tend to be those set for the comp. Registration is free, open to everyone (so is non-comp access), and there are some prizes to be had. See the website for more info: http://scripts.mit.edu/~mitoc/wall/comp/2013/
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Mar 29, 2013 16:00
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I need a new harness, does anyone have any reccomendations?
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Mar 29, 2013 19:49
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Fanzay posted:I need a new harness, does anyone have any reccomendations? I have the Petzl Calidris and I lurve it. Super comfortable and squishy.
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Mar 29, 2013 20:23
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Walked posted:Cool, thanks. Both Malibu Creek or Echo Cliffs are nice and pretty convenient to LA. Bouldering also an option at Stoney Point Looks like my project got delayed so I will also be around next week. Unfortunately I won't have the opportunity to fly home this weekend so my gear is pretty limited, but shoot me an email (username @ gmail) if you'd like.
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Mar 29, 2013 22:51
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i81icu812 posted:Both Malibu Creek or Echo Cliffs are nice and pretty convenient to LA. Bouldering also an option at Stoney Point Awesome. Ill shoot you an email when I get home. I've got plenty of ropes and draws so I can cover that side if you have your harness/etc
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Mar 30, 2013 00:12
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jiggerypokery fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2013 13:46
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I fell from a low overhang today (indoor bouldering), it was a route I've done before I just pushed it a little at the end of a session. I instinctively put my hand underneath myself and managed to hurt my middle finger of my right hand. It bent back the wrong way, it's a finger which has tendon damage already so was pretty painful, I just strapped it to another finger with finger tape and have left it. It's quite sore still and a little swollen but not too bad, not broken or anything. I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future?jiggerypokery posted:I just started a training blog if anyone is interested. This was a good read!
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Mar 30, 2013 14:55
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Chris! posted:I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future? I'm pretty sure people sticking out their arms when they fall is the biggest cause of indoor bouldering injuries, from what I've seen and amongst my friends it's usually when a beginner is not used to falling or is scared of falling from the route, how long have you been climbing? I normally tell them to progressively jump off from higher and higher to get used to the height, that way your body won't automatically panic when you slip off a route, and you can just control your fall properly.
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Mar 30, 2013 16:03
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Chris! posted:I fell from a low overhang today (indoor bouldering), it was a route I've done before I just pushed it a little at the end of a session. I instinctively put my hand underneath myself and managed to hurt my middle finger of my right hand. It bent back the wrong way, it's a finger which has tendon damage already so was pretty painful, I just strapped it to another finger with finger tape and have left it. It's quite sore still and a little swollen but not too bad, not broken or anything. I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future? No you should not climb until you don't have any pain. Tendons typically take 6-12 weeks to heal.
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Mar 30, 2013 16:19
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Stangg posted:I'm pretty sure people sticking out their arms when they fall is the biggest cause of indoor bouldering injuries, from what I've seen and amongst my friends it's usually when a beginner is not used to falling or is scared of falling from the route, how long have you been climbing? I normally tell them to progressively jump off from higher and higher to get used to the height, that way your body won't automatically panic when you slip off a route, and you can just control your fall properly. Thanks for the advice guys, I've only been climbing since November and mostly did top-roping until recently, not much bouldering. Lesson learned though, I won't be waving my arms as I fall again!
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Mar 30, 2013 17:43
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If you are on overhung routes where you could fall bad, maybe land on your neck you should really have a spotter. He could have tapped you under the pits and on your feet you land. Really people should always use a spotter, the gym gives a false sense of security with all the padding.
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Mar 30, 2013 18:05
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