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First brew tonight... on the boil right now. Target gravity pre-boil was 1.039, and I hit 1.036, so I don't think i'm doing too badly so far edit: fresh hops smell. ...... dank Turds in magma fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 03:40
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm brewing a Cervesa with Wyeast 2007, and in the description they said the yeast is very tolerant of a wide range of temperatures including room temperature. I read the description and didn't really focus on the yeast, and it's been fermenting for 24 hours at around 68F. Did I just screw myself, or is 2007 that tolerant? Should I put it in the garage where temps are much lower? Put it in the garage. Figured 51F is a better bet than 68F. Here's hoping spring holds off for a few more weeks.
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Mar 26, 2013 03:47
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Turds in magma posted:edit: fresh hops smell. ...... dank "Cannabaceae are a small family of flowering plants. The family includes ... Cannabis (hemp) and Humulus (hops)." Drink beer every day.   
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Mar 26, 2013 04:34
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I have no doubt that when weed becomes legal in whichever state you may reside in, they will be packaged and sold exactly like hops.
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Mar 26, 2013 04:37
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fullroundaction posted:"Cannabaceae are a small family of flowering plants. The family includes ... Cannabis (hemp) and Humulus (hops)." so... where can I buy weed-beer? How does it taste? I am 900% certain people have replaced hops with weed in their beer before... maybe even hemp would work (I have no idea how hemp buds smell...)?
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Mar 26, 2013 04:41
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Putting marijuana in beer seems like a horrible waste of money to be honest.
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Mar 26, 2013 05:12
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Put it in the garage. Figured 51F is a better bet than 68F. Here's hoping spring holds off for a few more weeks. If your garage was 51F reliably, it should have been in there the whole time. 51F is right about the right temperature to ferment a lager at. If you're looking at ambient room temperatures to ferment lager-like beers, you probably should use San Francisco Lager, aka Anchor Steam yeast.
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Mar 26, 2013 06:38
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hellfaucet posted:If you're trying to do a Three Floyd's Zombie Dust clone, their house yeast is Wyeast 1968, which is also WLP002. Take that for what it's worth. This is the Zombie Dust recipe I was planning to try. Should I ditch the S-04 and just go with WLP002 for it? Also here's my translation of it for my setup. bewbies fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 13:24
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Angry Grimace posted:If your garage was 51F reliably, it should have been in there the whole time. 51F is right about the right temperature to ferment a lager at. If you're looking at ambient room temperatures to ferment lager-like beers, you probably should use San Francisco Lager, aka Anchor Steam yeast. Oh I agree, and it's completely on me for not reading things better and leaving it in the garage from the start. There weren't really any instructions provided with the kit and I ended up playing it by ear, and in the description it said the yeast was tolerant of room temperatures. It was only on a lark that I ended up checking a second time and discovering that the yeast was for lagers. Fortunately the weather looks like it's going to cooperate, at least for the next two weeks, so hopefully I'll still end up with a tasty beer. I'm not that worried. It might not have a super-clean lager taste but I'm sure it will still be nice and drinkable.
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Mar 26, 2013 13:54
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Turds in magma posted:so... where can I buy weed-beer? How does it taste? I am 900% certain people have replaced hops with weed in their beer before... maybe even hemp would work (I have no idea how hemp buds smell...)? I think I read an article about how that very thing was going to happen in Colorado after it was legalized there and the general consensus in this thread was it would probably produce a beer that wouldn't taste much like weed, and would be very expensive. Angry Grimace posted:RDWHAHB And I don't mean to sperg at you but can we not do this? The rare times I will read Home Brew Talk the posts chock full of acronyms I don't know utterly enrages me, let's not do it here too.
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Mar 26, 2013 14:00
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Article on weed laced homebrew AKA Brain Death from 1997
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Mar 26, 2013 14:13
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Sirotan posted:And I don't mean to sperg at you but can we not do this? The rare times I will read Home Brew Talk the posts chock full of acronyms I don't know utterly enrages me, let's not do it here too. Yes, listen to SWMBO.
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Mar 26, 2013 15:04
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My friend is a big pot head and has brewed weed beer before. He said it was gross and he's be sticking to brownies :colorado:
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Mar 26, 2013 15:23
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Sirotan posted:And I don't mean to sperg at you but can we not do this? The rare times I will read Home Brew Talk the posts chock full of acronyms I don't know utterly enrages me, let's not do it here too. That particular acronym is perfectly acceptable.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:02
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Sirotan posted:And I don't mean to sperg at you but can we not do this? The rare times I will read Home Brew Talk the posts chock full of acronyms I don't know utterly enrages me, let's not do it here too. Tough titties, RDWHAHB is the official SA homebrew acronym - and it's nothing like the HBT acronyms - it's just a reference to Papazian's famous "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew" which is way too loving long to type out. Also, Sirotan - RDWHAHB.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:02
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We should have a :RDWHAHB: smiley. Consisting of the acronyom flashing with sirens.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:10
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Super Rad posted:Tough titties, RDWHAHB is the official SA homebrew acronym - and it's nothing like the HBT acronyms - it's just a reference to Papazian's famous "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew" which is way too loving long to type out. It's six words, the other one looks like some letters vomited onto my screen. It doesn't make me want to relax or drink a beer. I don't like it. 
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Mar 26, 2013 16:17
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:We should have a :RDWHAHB: smiley. Consisting of the acronyom flashing with sirens. Hey, I bought the last one, and it is just as appropriate to this thread as RDWHAHB. 
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Mar 26, 2013 16:23
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Sirotan posted:It's six words, the other one looks like some letters vomited onto my screen. It doesn't make me want to relax or drink a beer. what if we used Commas?! R,DW,HAHB 
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Mar 26, 2013 16:25
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RagingBoner posted:Hey, I bought the last one, and it is just as appropriate to this thread as RDWHAHB. Very true. Add a Commissar hat and it would be :40K:.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:26
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:takeagravityreading:
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Mar 26, 2013 16:27
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Now, now, don't needle the guy. The last guy we did that to ended up pouring a perfectly good batch down the drain without even tasting it. At least we explain acronyms rather than just saying, "Use the search, n00b!" Sadly, Sirotan, acronyms are just part of homebrewing culture. I'm pretty sure they're just part of nerdery in general - I think every hobby has their own special set. We're not as aggressive with their use here as the HBT gang is, but it's true that RDWHAHB is rooted so deeply in homebrewing culture that it will never come out.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:39
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U.S. Barryl posted:...but will acetaldehyde go away with bottle conditioning or should I have done the secondary? I think my question got lost at the end of the last page.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:40
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U.S. Barryl posted:I think my question got lost at the end of the last page. It should go away with time.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:50
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Relax, don't worry, dump a batch of home brew, but tell me first so I can drink your delicious sewer beer.U.S. Barryl posted:I think my question got lost at the end of the last page. Acetaldehyde is usually a sign of young beer but I've had some beers get stronger over time, which I am figuring for jnfection. I have a barleywine in the closet I haven't sampled for 6 months that reeked of it after a 1 month primary so once I package it I will try to remember to update the thread on what happened.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:52
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U.S. Barryl posted:Alright, I'm probably worrying over nothing. I brewed the Imperial Stout from Northern Brewer here: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/imperial-stout-all-grain-kit.html Pretty sure green apples are a sign of immature beer, so give it time. Especially with something that bold. Find a cold, dark place and forget about it for a few months. As I understand it secondaries are from a bygone era when autolysis (yeast suicide) was a bigger concern due to using crappier yeast. Nowadays the quality of the yeast is such that it's not a huge concern and you might actually be better off letting the yeast cake stay with the beer so that it can continue to consume off flavors. That said racking to secondary does have benefits. It's helpful for clarifying the beer and if you need the original vessel for another brew the secondary provides a good place to bulk condition. Basically you're fine. I have a Belgian Tripel that's also going to require a long conditioning time, and my plan is to leave it in secondary so it can bulk condition. But it really doesn't matter.
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Mar 26, 2013 16:56
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Thanks to everybody for putting my worries aside. I'm going to let them sit for at least 3 more months before I try another.
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Mar 26, 2013 17:02
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Sirotan posted:I think I read an article about how that very thing was going to happen in Colorado after it was legalized there and the general consensus in this thread was it would probably produce a beer that wouldn't taste much like weed, and would be very expensive. That one was coined by Papazian, so I'm gonna stick with it.
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Mar 26, 2013 17:47
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S-04 can be really good if fermented correctly. The trick is to observe a fermentation profile that is similar to how that yeast is supposedly used commercially. S-04 and WLP002 are both supposed to be the Fuller's strain. I start with-my wort at 64F and pitch and aerate. I then set my fridge to 68F and let it rise on its own. Two days or so later I set it back to 64. When done I cold crash then set to 50 for carb and serve. I have not had success bottle conditioning since it seems to lose some of the esters. When done this way it is really tasty, especially when you hop quite a lot with East Kent Goldings and use Maris Otter with a little bit of crystal.
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Mar 26, 2013 19:10
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BANANA WINE I made the banana wine on Sunday/Monday. Well, since I had three cases of bananas, I also made banana chips and banana jam and banana bread etc. but the wine is really the important thing here. Step one, cut up a bunch of bananas, sans skins (I decided the thoughts above about the pesticides on banana skins were good thoughts). This ended up being about 18 pounds or so of fruit in the pot.  Step two, add water to the top and boil for twenty minutes.  Step three, in your fermenter, add some pectic enzyme, some citric acid, and one pound of raisins (I went with the regular colored ones since they were the only ones not coated with sulphur dioxide):  Step four, strain the wash into the fermenter, ending up with however much liquid you end up with (it was a lot of bananas):  Step five, add one pot of brewed tea (for tannin):  I didn't get a photo of the next bit, which is step six, but it's important. Add 4 pounds of sugar, enough water to bring everything up to five gallons, and stir well to disolve. Step seven is the next morning, when everything is cooled to room temperature. Place about a 1/3 cup of distiller's yeast in a measuring cup and rehydrate with warm water:  After a few minutes it will look like this:  Aerate your wash very well, pitch the yeast, and wait. After 12 hours, the bubbles will be coming out of the airlock at a rate of roughly 10 a second and your plastic fermenter will be bowed out and in danger of exploding. As of this writing, it's still doing that. I'm going to let it continue in primary until after Easter sometime, then rack to a secondary for a couple of months, then bottle and age. I will update when things happen.
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Mar 26, 2013 19:32
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So, you were basically working with banana slime at the end? Any issues with the viscosity of the solution?
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Mar 26, 2013 19:39
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No, you strain out all of the banana. It looks all milky and cloudy, sure, but the viscosity is actually less than your average wort, I'd say. Quite thin (and very tasty!)
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Mar 26, 2013 19:53
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Although that is something I would not think to do myself, I'm glad you did it and posted the pics. Keep us posted on how it all comes out.
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Mar 26, 2013 20:08
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Maybe I missed this from when you were talking about this earlier, but why use distillers yeast?
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Mar 26, 2013 20:18
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Because it's all I had, other than bread yeast.
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Mar 26, 2013 20:21
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It's been ages, thread. It's been ages, fermenters, buckets and stockpot. It's been too long, hops in my freezer. It's all been for a good cause though (I am brewing part-time at a very small east London brewery, which is nice) but I am craving my own creativity. I still don't have a mash tun, which I hope to get on as soon as I get my hands on some money. Before then, though, it's time for an extract with specialty grains APA/IPA. Classic American stuff. The kind that's hard to get/expensive in the UK. So, I'm asking for critiques/recommendations about http://hopville.com/recipe/1689922 . I'd like it to be a hoppy, refreshing American zinger for when spring finally gets here. My biggest questions, going by the crystal discussion earlier, are my percentages of crystal and carapils currently in the recipe, as well as the hop schedule. What I'm looking for is that classic American explodes-out-of-the-bottle-with-pine-resin-and-CCC-hoppiness thing. You know what I mean. Should I amp up the post-boil addition? Should I do more dry hopping?
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Mar 26, 2013 20:39
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So with Extract beer-ing. Do you still need to have 5 gallons in one place all at once? Or can you do your extracts and bonus grain steeping, And then combine with the rest of your water and be on your way?
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Mar 26, 2013 20:45
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Marshmallow Blue posted:So with Extract beer-ing. Do you still need to have 5 gallons in one place all at once? Or can you do your extracts and bonus grain steeping, And then combine with the rest of your water and be on your way? The second one. I've seen it done with 2 gallons. It seems better that way because you can add cold cold refrigerated water to the hot hot wort to get it cooler fastest.
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Mar 26, 2013 20:49
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Marshmallow Blue posted:So with Extract beer-ing. Do you still need to have 5 gallons in one place all at once? Or can you do your extracts and bonus grain steeping, And then combine with the rest of your water and be on your way? You can do it with only boiling 2-3 gallons then topping off with 2-3 gallons of tap water in the fermenter. Make sure to experiment a little with Beersmith (or whatever) to see what affect this has on IBUs and color though. A recipe that is intended to be a full boil won't come out the same if you only do a partial boil (and vice versa). You can do a late extract addition to mitigate this a little by basically boiling with only the amount of extract required to get the boil volume to around the target OG, then adding the rest of the extract for just the last 15 minutes or so of the boil.
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Mar 26, 2013 21:02
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Mainly asking this because I have some plans. But don't own a pot that holds 5 gals of water.
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Mar 26, 2013 21:06
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