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Don't be pedantic. The Corvette is unibody.
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Apr 6, 2013 15:00
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cursedshitbox posted:
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Apr 6, 2013 16:13
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You Am I posted:That car doesn't look all that hosed. Sure it looks awful because it has lost the fender and door skin, but that's purely cosmetic If you look at the targa top you can see how it's uneven from the front windshield to the rear windshield - the frame is bent. He just bought a roller and we're going to be digging into the wrecked one to find out what we can save. So far the engine looks fine, the blower head unit looks fine (thought the intercooler and radiator are bad) and at first glance the drive train looks ok as well. We've still got to get the stuff out and strip it down to make sure. You can see what I'm talking about with the t-top a little better in this picture:  some texas redneck posted:
Yeah he got super lucky. The rear right tire blew, which sent him into the wall, but angle that he hit it at saved him from more severe injuries. 14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Does the time count if he never entered the other lane? Sure does!!! 
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Apr 6, 2013 17:01
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FatCow posted:Don't be pedantic. The Corvette is unibody. That implies the Corvette's body is stressed, which it isn't. It bears some load, but the general idea is still body on frame.
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Apr 6, 2013 18:02
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DJ Commie posted:That implies the Corvette's body is stressed, which it isn't. It bears some load, but the general idea is still body on frame. That one sure looks stressed to me. 
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Apr 6, 2013 19:07
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This is a friendly reminder to always make sure you tighten your lugs all the way No, I don't know how it didn't come off all the way either. Yes, I'm a fuckin dumbass  e: got the lugs back on and tightened them all the way, drove half a mile and they were all super loose again, so I guess there's something else at work here 
DEEP STATE PLOT fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Apr 6, 2013 |
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Apr 6, 2013 20:50
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Wait...what? How did loose lug nuts do that? It looks like a caliper bracket bolt came off and the caliper rotated out and gouged the inside of the wheel.
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Apr 6, 2013 22:59
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I've done that. Didn't torque the lugs on my RS and drove a few feet and things start feeling funny when I'm pulling out of the driveway. Scored the gently caress out of the inside of the rim with the brake rotor. Just zip wheeled the rim and bolted it back on and didn't tell a soul about my stupidity. Until now. Oops. This is why I have a service crew now.
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Apr 7, 2013 00:10
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My uncle got tired of the often changed flats on the old farm truck in the 60s and experimented with speeding up the tire changing process by only finger tightening the lug nuts.
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Apr 7, 2013 00:15
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Cannot Find Server posted:e: got the lugs back on and tightened them all the way, drove half a mile and they were all super loose again, so I guess there's something else at work here Probably wallowed the lug seats out and they're working loose as you drive now. Keep a very close eye on it, if they're too far gone you may need a new wheel.
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Apr 7, 2013 01:14
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Motronic posted:Wait...what? How did loose lug nuts do that? The lugs came off the car and the tire came partially off, with the drum landing on the outside of the wheel and cutting that groove into it. It was exactly as terrifying as it sounds.
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Apr 7, 2013 01:24
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So 2 years ago I put a set of bilsteins on. They didn't come with washers and the stock shocks don't use a washer. I thought nothing of it. I went to replace a pad wear sensor today and found this: I have no idea how long they've been this way, but the rubber has almost completed engulfed the bolt head.
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Apr 7, 2013 01:45
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Itzena posted:What did he flush it with - custard? Dude I'm pretty sure that's a sauce you get with Thai food. It's piquant, with just a slight hint of ethylene glycol for sweetness.
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Apr 7, 2013 05:23
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Cannot Find Server posted:e: got the lugs back on and tightened them all the way, drove half a mile and they were all super loose again, so I guess there's something else at work here When you say 'all the way', you mean to spec and not just güdentite, right? 
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Apr 7, 2013 15:09
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Crustashio posted:So 2 years ago I put a set of bilsteins on. They didn't come with washers and the stock shocks don't use a washer. I thought nothing of it. I went to replace a pad wear sensor today and found this: I'll be double checking mine before I drive it next.  I *think* there was a washer but this was 2 years/10k miles ago.
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Apr 7, 2013 20:21
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So I've been rebuilding my motorcycle engine over the last month or so, because this happened to it halfway across the San Mateo bridge; Fun. Any ideas what would cause something like this? There's no valve damage, and you can see that the hole isn't where the valve impact points would be anyway. I didn't hear any knocking prior to the sudden loss of power, so I don't think it was running lean or with improper timing, and I didn't find any rocks or screws or anything in the crankcase. No damage to the spark plug either. I'm baffled. VVVV Wouldn't that sound like, you know, knocking? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 02:33
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Lots and lots of detonation.
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Apr 8, 2013 02:37
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Sagebrush posted:So I've been rebuilding my motorcycle engine over the last month or so, because this happened to it halfway across the San Mateo bridge; Reiterate the above, has to be detonation. Detonation doesn't always come out really loud or like a knock
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Apr 8, 2013 02:54
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And that kind of damage is something that occurred over a long period of time. It didn't just suddenly decide "welp I'm sick of having compression" out of nowhere. Once it's back together, figure out why that cylinder was running so hot.
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Apr 8, 2013 03:16
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What sort of "long period" are we talking about here? A hundred miles? A thousand? More? I've only put a couple of thousand miles on the bike since I bought it from the PO, who definitely treated it...roughly. Is it possible that the piston could have been partially damaged before the bike was mine, run well enough for a while, then eventually given up when I started pushing the bike hard? In any case, I'm going to be extremely careful about setting the timing when I get the engine remounted in the bike. e: the bike shop manual recommends regular 87 octane gas, which is what I've been using, but would switching to 91 for the increased detonation resistance have any negative effects? It's not like it's that expensive to fill up the tank. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Apr 8, 2013 |
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Apr 8, 2013 03:39
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Well its typically a fatigue thing. So you just build up stress cycles every time you have a detonation. They add up over time till you get a nice little crack starting to from. Its all over pretty quickly after that.
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Apr 8, 2013 04:08
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Sadi posted:Well its typically a fatigue thing. So you just build up stress cycles every time you have a detonation. They add up over time till you get a nice little crack starting to from. Its all over pretty quickly after that. If any of you wanna get all mathy, sciencey about basics of fatigue, look into Miner's rule and S-N curves. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_%28material%29 http://www.weibull.com/hotwire/issue116/hottopics116.htm
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Apr 8, 2013 04:12
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On a car engine, that kind of damage occurs over thousands of miles. Possibly tens of thousands, depending just how bad the detonation is. No idea on a bike. But it's absolutely possible that it the damage started before you got it. If the engine is stock, and timing is stock, there's no reason to run a higher octane fuel. That said, it won't hurt anything except your wallet.
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Apr 8, 2013 05:23
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To me that looks like a classic lean mixture on that side. Detonation is mostly visible around the outer edges of the piston and head (squish band). A lean mix would run hit and eventually melt a hole in the piston just like that.
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Apr 8, 2013 16:25
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Horrible engineering failure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3QD59QfMdQ The casting of the cylinder head is the bearing surface on Lamborghini Miura engines...and there isnt an oil passageway 
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Apr 8, 2013 19:27
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Lord Gaga posted:Horrible engineering failure:
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Apr 8, 2013 19:48
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InitialDave posted:That must be fun to deal with if it wears. I guess you could build it up with a repair coating, though. Same channel has some connecting rods that have the big or small end bronzed because oops the bores out of spec lol. If it were me, and I think the way he does it is the same, is I'd line bore the head well oversize and install bronze bushings (and possibly forced oiling if the guy doesn't mind spending the $$)
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Apr 8, 2013 19:58
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Lord Gaga posted:Horrible engineering failure: It was the 60's, what do you expect? A lot of pushrod engines lube the cam by oil gravity feeding through the valley and sort of just dripping randomly on the cam. Noone gave a poo poo back then because an engine wasn't expected to last 100k without serious work being done.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:14
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The camshaft journals on my bike engine are just smooth round machined areas on either side of the head, but at least they're integrated into small castings that only cost about  to replace should they explode, and they're definitely oiled.Seconding that boring the journals out and installing bronze bushings (or Nikasil plating or something) would be an awesome idea. But then again, this is the car where the oil pump shuts off if you go into a hard left turn, soooo Slavvy posted:It was the 60's, what do you expect? A lot of pushrod engines lube the cam by oil gravity feeding through the valley and sort of just dripping randomly on the cam. I always liked the "let's just make a thing that dips into the sump and throws oil all over everything, it'll get there eventually" method of lubrication. No idea how engines with splash lubrication run at all.
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Apr 8, 2013 23:46
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Lord Gaga posted:Horrible engineering failure: 'Modofocation'  (I bet it's hooked to a manuel transmission)  Goober Peas fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Apr 9, 2013 |
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Apr 9, 2013 00:32
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Goober Peas posted:'Modofocation' Isn't the lubrication provided by the cam?
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Apr 9, 2013 00:48
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 does this fit in here?
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Apr 9, 2013 17:28
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Nitr0 posted:
Nah, you are looking for the "Post Pictures of Horrible Cerebral Failures" thread.
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Apr 9, 2013 17:57
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Straps are $10 for four at the Home Depot.
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Apr 9, 2013 19:01
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Geirskogul posted:Straps are $10 for four at the Home Depot. and 10 dollars buys a 12 pack of bud light. 
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Apr 9, 2013 19:42
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Octopus Magic posted:and 10 dollars buys a 12 pack of bud light. And the straps would still taste better.
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Apr 9, 2013 19:51
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In the last week I've spent about $60 on 4 straps  And when I read $10 for beer I though that was a drat good price for a 6 pack even if it is just cat piss. gently caress I'm sick of prices here.Today I'm going to be further courting a mechanical failure. Feeding the car another one of those bizarre cooling system stop leak products with clear stuff, translucent red stuff and what looks like fine copper filings. I just need a few thousand more km out of it In the next few weeks I may have to start operation "order engine parts from the U.S. via a friendly go-between to avoid shipping rape". Every goddamn part of the cooling system is leaking.
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Apr 9, 2013 22:34
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General_Failure posted:In the last week I've spent about $60 on 4 straps When I was finishing putting the Audi 2.3l back together after timing it, I forgot to put a 10mm bolt back in, resulted in a good steady drip of fresh engine oil from the oil pump. Well I tear it apart and put it back in.... ....then forgot to put another in  coolant leak ensued. Fixed that one, AND FORGOT ANOTHER. Another oil leak. Finally got it all back together......and the water pump seal blows. More coolant leak.
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Apr 9, 2013 22:40
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Kegerator dude  I pay $1.41 per 20oz pint of craft beer.
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Apr 9, 2013 22:41
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CommieGIR posted:When I was finishing putting the Audi 2.3l back together after timing it, I forgot to put a 10mm bolt back in, resulted in a good steady drip of fresh engine oil from the oil pump. Well I tear it apart and put it back in.... Ouch! I suspect all, or at least most of the coolant hoses are originals. No matter what I do they leak at the ends. There's a welch plug that's leaking pretty badly around the edge too but I can't get to the drat thing because it's behind an engine mount and the subframe. Can't get at it from the top because the engine is a tight fit around the suspension towers and even then I have to invest time into dismantling the LPG gear because it lives on that side of the engine bay. I really hate touching that poo poo. Especially because the negative pressure vapour line to the mixer is rock hard and brittle from heat and age, and hosed if I can find that stuff anywhere. Last week I priced a thermostat and the finger length heater bypass hoses on the water pump. The hoses I'm looking at $50 or so... No I'm sure it was more than that. I kind of stopped paying attention at that point. The thermostat is $50 and the gasket $5. I think I'll just get the gasket. The thermostat still works fine. It's just the gasket leaks. I don't even want to think of how much the rad hoses cost. Then there's the hardline that runs snug up against an injector rail, which has of course rubbed through the heater line so sometimes coolant runs all over one of the rocker covers and down on to the spark plugs and exhaust. The whole cooling system minus the radiator has aged badly and needs replacing. I replaced the rad because it blew a couple of years back. Like a day or two after I flushed the system and fed it Tectaloy red. 
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Apr 9, 2013 22:53
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