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So after watching CommieGIR's success with EZ-Outs, I thought I would try my luck. The PO of my DSM broke bolts off everywhere when it came to the transmission. I am trying to unfuck this mess at the moment. This broken bolt is between the motor and front subframe underneath the A/C compressor. It holds the CV shaft to the block.  I did not get pictures of me trying to drill a hole through the bolt unfortunately. I was more concerned with getting the motor moved/holding up the half shaft than taking photos at that point.  This was the third bolt I got out Saturday. At this point I called it a day.
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Apr 10, 2013 12:13
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Congratulations! What type of drill do you use for those? I wondered if I had an air drill if it'd work better as I severely failed in my attempts to use an electric one, both corded and cordless.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:07
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AzureSkys posted:Congratulations! I wound up using a corded Makita 90° drill to get in the tight areas. It worked like a champ and I was quite pleased with how easy it was to use.
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Apr 10, 2013 14:23
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thvwlshvscpd posted:
What the gently caress, does being a member of SA give you fuckers magic powers or something? We need to create a community Imgur album or something.
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Apr 10, 2013 18:46
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 Dodge 4.7 blew the camshaft caps to poo poo... How in the crap does this happen? I'm thinking oiling issues but not sure. SiB fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Apr 10, 2013 |
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Apr 10, 2013 19:31
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Geirskogul posted:What the gently caress, does being a member of SA give you fuckers magic powers or something? We need to create a community Imgur album or something. I just drilled all the way through the bolts and used a tap handle with the EZ Out. If it didn't want to come out, I stepped up to a larger drill bit and used a larger EZ Out
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Apr 10, 2013 19:39
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More a horrible advertising/proofreading (is it still called that for images?) failure:
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Apr 10, 2013 23:15
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Was stripping out a BMW for a race car build and I find this gem in the trunk... That is the stock harness for the sound system and 6 CD changer. To be clear, there was a nothing covering that twisted wire... The added on red wire traced back to some 12V battery which was just hanging out in the trunk. I'm not entirely sure what it was. I think it was a gov't tracking device with backup battery. 
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Apr 11, 2013 00:51
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SiB posted:
Paging initial dave, rscott and whoever else is an engineer to back me up but the lack of beach marks and rough surface says brittle impact failure to me. One of the lobes going downward forced the cam upward and it cracked as you see there. Not my area of expertise though so I could be missing something obvious.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:05
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Yeah, that is definite brittle failure.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:11
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The bearing journal on the cam looks like it spun or ran dry for a while, and I know of a few 4.7s that have died due to oiling issues, so I wouldn't be too surprised. I'm an EE not an ME though, so take that as "man on the street who has seen a few blowed up engines" not an actual engineering viewpoint.
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Apr 11, 2013 01:12
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c355n4 posted:Was stripping out a BMW for a race car build and I find this gem in the trunk... Upon removal of the device, a long-dormant sleeper cell was activated. They are converging on your garage as we speak. Do not attempt to flee. Remember these words: "The truth is an orange bowl". Good luck. 
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Apr 11, 2013 01:15
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c355n4 posted:
Did you find anything in the quarter panels while you were gutting it?
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Apr 11, 2013 02:21
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It's probably a starter interlock for a PO who got a DUI. Maybe they just never finished removing it.
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Apr 11, 2013 02:24
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thvwlshvscpd posted:So after watching CommieGIR's success with EZ-Outs, I thought I would try my luck. The PO of my DSM broke bolts off everywhere when it came to the transmission. I am trying to unfuck this mess at the moment. You did it....I can finally rest in peace. My new motor in the Audi has popped two of its exhaust studs...just clean broke them off  So I'll probably be doing this soon.
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 03:05
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Terrible Robot posted:Upon removal of the device, a long-dormant sleeper cell was activated. They are converging on your garage as we speak. Do not attempt to flee. Remember these words: "The truth is an orange bowl". Good luck. Seat Safety Switch posted:Did you find anything in the quarter panels while you were gutting it? A shitton of sound deadening foam and lots of change. My god, the sound deadening.
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Apr 11, 2013 03:13
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Crustashio posted:Yeah, that is definite brittle failure.
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Apr 11, 2013 10:38
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From here - http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110552 
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Apr 11, 2013 15:26
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Some of you know about my buddy's wreck not so long ago. Most of the drive train was fine, passenger half shaft was sheared and we're pretty sure that was the cause of the 'blow out', the engine was fine - started up and ran with no issues, the blower head unit was fine, the side mount intercoolers were fine (except for a slight tick that got kind of loud after a few minutes), but the piping up front was trashed. He decided he wanted to stroke the motor while it was out and waiting for a roller, put a bigger head unit on and tear it down to freshen it up anyway when we found this: We checked the rest of the rockers and two others were showing stress fractures. Pretty sure that rocker let go during the run when the tire blew out/half shaft sheared, otherwise I'm pretty sure he'd have a blown motor. Pushrod length measured exactly what it needed to be, not sure how all those rockers are going. Could have been a bad batch I guess. I don't think the accident caused it. I've seen motors pulled out of cars that were in much worse shape in the front, with nothing wrong. Dizman fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 22:32
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I say pull all of them and get them under a microscope or through a crack-testing check, or at the very least send some photos etc to the manufacturer and ask them if they've had similar reports.
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Apr 11, 2013 22:37
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Holy crap that looks like the damage to all four original tyres that were on the Fairlane. The sidewalls on all of them had these horrible gaping cracks. The strange thing is the tyres weren't dry rotted or anything. They seemed fairly newish. It's a hot climate area so no idea what the deal was.
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Apr 11, 2013 22:41
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InitialDave posted:I say pull all of them and get them under a microscope or through a crack-testing check, or at the very least send some photos etc to the manufacturer and ask them if they've had similar reports. Plan was to take them off anyway since he'll need new rockers with the stroker kit, but Comp said they'll do a metallurgy test or whatever other voodoo and black magic it is on them and if they find it to be a failure in manufacturing or whatever they'll ship out a new set with the ratio of his choosing overnight.
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Apr 11, 2013 22:51
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Not a horrible mechanical failure yet but yeah: Not sure that's how a four month old turbo supposed to look like :/ Also...I don't really know anything about turbos...there was some oil in there. Not much, just a bit...is there supposed to be oil in there?
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Apr 11, 2013 22:51
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Shai-Hulud posted:Not a horrible mechanical failure yet but yeah: The lovely home-depot pipe clamp holding the turbo discharge pipe on the housing is an indicator that the owner probably doesn't know a great deal, either.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:02
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From the shape of the bolt head and housing on that screw clamp, it may not be from a home improvement store, there's a chance that's factory.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:12
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Yeah pretty sure that's factory. Edit: Same engine different car:  Same clamp. Shai-Hulud fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Apr 11, 2013 |
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Apr 11, 2013 23:16
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Yeah, all the turbo-plumbing related clamps on my car look just like that. Out of curiousity, what is actually the best type to use in that application?
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Apr 11, 2013 23:17
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The very best is V-band, but that requires all piping to be metal (afaik). Most cheaper setups have aluminum piping with those same worm screw clamps over silicone connecters. The plastic stuff usually works fine as long as you're keeping everything stock.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:24
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Terrible Robot posted:Yeah, all the turbo-plumbing related clamps on my car look just like that. Out of curiousity, what is actually the best type to use in that application?  But any kind of clamp that gives even clamping pressure and doesn't have sharp edges to cut into hoses is a "good" one.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:24
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Hot side should be done with either flanges or V-band clamps (I like the V-bands, or flanges with through bolts... flanges with tapped holes or studs can suck it) - not sure what's preferable on the cold side, I've only ever seen that kind of worm screw clamp.
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Apr 11, 2013 23:25
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 T-bolt clamps for the cold side.
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Apr 12, 2013 00:59
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Dizman posted:
High ratio rockers and supa stiff valve springs don't play nice together. Or they don't have the right valve springs for that amount of total lift and they are collapsing/binding. obso fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 01:05
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Shai-Hulud posted:Not a horrible mechanical failure yet but yeah: This happened to my VW TDI turbo too, the plastic pipe that goes to the intake leaked and let debris in. Still held good boost, but scared the hell out of me when I pulled the head and found the turbine blades nicked up like that.
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Apr 12, 2013 01:14
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AMS Performance actually prefers high quality worm clamps. http://amsperformance.com/resources/technical/why-a-worm-gear-clamp-works-better-then-a-t-bolt-clamp
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Apr 12, 2013 03:17
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SiB posted:
Based on the fact that it looks like the rockers are non-existant, I'd say one of them acted like a pry bar.
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Apr 12, 2013 05:24
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Viking Blood posted:Based on the fact that it looks like the rockers are non-existant, I'd say one of them acted like a pry bar. It appears to be an interesting reversal of the usual diesel trend. Normally because the valves are totally vertical, they don't bend at all and just transfer the energy to the rocker arms, which just snap or bend in the middle depending on materials.
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Apr 12, 2013 05:58
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Viking Blood posted:Based on the fact that it looks like the rockers are non-existant, I'd say one of them acted like a pry bar. Ya they were under the cams obviously out of place. The motor will be out tomorrow so ill take a closer look.
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Apr 12, 2013 06:33
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Shai-Hulud posted:Not a horrible mechanical failure yet but yeah: If your engine is a 1.6l TDCi from Peugeot (PSA), then it might very soon end up being a mechanical failure - you need to remove the filter from the banjo bolt which supplies the oil to the turbo. If that filter gets blocked (the problem is caused by badly designed sump. Removal of the sump drain plug does not result in total removal of old oil. Leaving sludge in sump.at some point due to the way the oil sump is constructed), your turbo will fail.
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Apr 12, 2013 08:53
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Kidney Stone posted:If your engine is a 1.6l TDCi from Peugeot (PSA), then it might very soon end up being a mechanical failure - you need to remove the filter from the banjo bolt which supplies the oil to the turbo. If that filter gets blocked (the problem is caused by badly designed sump. Removal of the sump drain plug does not result in total removal of old oil. Leaving sludge in sump.at some point due to the way the oil sump is constructed), your turbo will fail. To add a bit onto this, the problem is exactly as massive as it sounds. This engine is used in basically every single model from Peugeot/Citroën, loads of Fords, MINIs, Volvos and so on, and they're all affected. Removing the filter is a workaround that gets you slightly dirty oil to the turbo instead of no oil at all. Mekonomen (a Swedish chain of mechanics) have designed a sump that solves the drainage problem, the permanent fix is to fit one of those in place of the OEM one, I believe the official policy for PSA here in Denmark is to do exactly that. I can't imagine how embarrassed their engineers are right now. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 11:28
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KozmoNaut posted:I can't imagine how embarrassed their engineers are right now.
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Apr 12, 2013 11:38
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