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El Estrago Bonito posted:The general idea is that you toss down the dirt, then patches of the flock, some small amounts of static over the flock and then finally some of the accent material. At least that's what I have done when I used it. Oh, I see. That's more steps than I generally use on bases - normally I do a base layer and then an accent (so like, dirt and then flock, or flock and then static, etc.) I'll try the full treatment on something for the project, though, to see how it goes.
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Apr 12, 2013 14:38
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I'm having a problem with my (internal mix, gravity feed, dual action) airbrush, and I'm hoping somebody can help. Basically, when I used it for the first time, I didn't have the cleaning supplies really ready to get this thing cleaned up because I was impatient and excited to paint. So it got really gummed up with dry paint. I finally bought an ultrasonic cleaner to get it fixed up, ran the pertinent parts through it about 7 times, and it looked cleaned up to me so I threw it back together to try and run some airbrush cleaner through it. The cleaner went through fine, but I'm not able to create any sort of backwash into the cup like you would normally get if you block the tip with your hand or a paper towel (or if you wanted to mix the paint I'm the cup). Is there a specific part that could be gummed up? Should I just run it through the ultrasonic a few more times? The tip and nozzle look clean to me, so I think the problem is in the barrel.
panascope fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 16:03
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Have you tried soaking the bits in airbrush thinner overnight? They're not always recommended, but sometimes those little cleaner brushes are really helpful. Or just use pipe cleaners.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:11
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panascope posted:I'm having a problem with my (internal mix, gravity feed, dual action) airbrush, and I'm hoping somebody can help. Basically, when I used it for the first time, I didn't have the cleaning supplies really ready to get this thing cleaned up because I was impatient and excited to paint. So it got really gummed up with dry paint. I finally bought an ultrasonic cleaner to get it fixed up, ran the pertinent parts through it about 7 times, and it looked cleaned up to me so I threw it back together to try and run some airbrush cleaner through it. The cleaner went through fine, but I'm not able to create any sort of backwash into the cup like you would normally get if you block the tip with your hand or a paper towel (or if you wanted to mix the paint I'm the cup). Is there a specific part that could be gummed up? Should I just run it through the ultrasonic a few more times? The tip and nozzle look clean to me, so I think the problem is in the barrel. You might have buggered your needle bearing. What were you sitting in the cleaner, and with what solvent? Even water could screw things up. Also, what kind of airbrush? If you can't backflush, that means that something is preventing the air from getting into the nozzle portion, so you might have precipitated some paint into some of the holes. I hope you didn't sit the whole thing that many times, you didn't need to clean it that much.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:38
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I'm on a phone so I can't quote (for whatever reason the function doesn't work for me), but I used Medea airbrush cleaning solution. It's a Paasche Talon I think, I don't have it in front of me though. I've tried cleaning it with pipe cleaners and even though gunk doesn't come out I haven't really soaked it in the airbrush cleaner so I'll try that this weekend. I only ran it through so many cycles in the ultrasonic because I saw people on other forums doing similar amounts to get things cleaned up on badly gummed up brushes.
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Apr 12, 2013 16:49
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panascope posted:I'm on a phone so I can't quote (for whatever reason the function doesn't work for me), but I used Medea airbrush cleaning solution. It's a Paasche Talon I think, I don't have it in front of me though. I've tried cleaning it with pipe cleaners and even though gunk doesn't come out I haven't really soaked it in the airbrush cleaner so I'll try that this weekend. I only ran it through so many cycles in the ultrasonic because I saw people on other forums doing similar amounts to get things cleaned up on badly gummed up brushes. Side question: do you use the wrench to lock your Paasche up tight? The nozzle and the air hose? I had the hardest time even using my Paasche VL until I ignored the advice to only hand tighten, and it works fantastically. That might contribute to your issues. Where is the gunk? You should only have gunk in the cup, and from the needle bearing through to the nozzle. You should be able to clean it out by putting a harsher cleaner (Windex) and scrubbing the paint area with a cheap brush (I use a flat one) and spray until clean. Also, find yourself a hobby shop and get some Tamiya Triangular Cotton Swabs. I feel they work much better than pipe cleaners or paper towels. Vulich the Subtle fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 16:56
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I've just been hand tightening, I'll find the wrench and get it on there better. The dried paint was in the forward part of the gun, basically from the cup forward, I haven't seen any paint behind the cup. Mainly the nozzle and tip were pretty gummed up. Thanks for the quick responses, I just got in over my head here I think.
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Apr 12, 2013 17:09
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panascope posted:I've just been hand tightening, I'll find the wrench and get it on there better. The dried paint was in the forward part of the gun, basically from the cup forward, I haven't seen any paint behind the cup. Mainly the nozzle and tip were pretty gummed up. Thanks for the quick responses, I just got in over my head here I think. You were spraying acrylics, I assume? Acrylics are really quick drying and, yeah, become a nasty gum afterwards. I suggest being more proactive with making sure your nozzle is unimpeded; if you catch yourself having to adjust your spray amount or having to jump the pressure, unscrew the needle, pull it back just a bit, then take off the entire front portion and clean it out. Oftentimes the tip, but sometimes the spray regulator portion, get full of crap but you won't really notice until you start having to shotgun the drat thing and then you ruin the piece you're working on. I've taken, when not using pre-mixed stuff, to making just enough and when the airbrush gets really gunky I just toss out the remaining paint and pump through a lot of water. Acrylics are a lot of work, but at least they won't explode! Fake edit: yeah, wrench tighten it. It stops the air from leaking, and stops the paint from leaking into awkward places. When you spray, the pressure in the entire system will stay stable and won't suck/blow random crap into places it doesn't belong. Real edit: Go to http://www.airbrushguru.com/cleaning-your-airbrush.html It's helped me understand some things I needed to improve in my cleaning procedure, and I'm sure it'll help you. Vulich the Subtle fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 17:15
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I find these help. But admnittedly only the two smallest brushes fit inside my gun. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-airbrush-cleaning-brushes-68155.html
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Apr 12, 2013 17:16
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Today's lesson #1: Hey, I can run craft paints through my airbrush! Today's lesson #2: Airbrush stripping is fun 
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Apr 12, 2013 18:51
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What are good varnishes for aibrushing? I'm looking at Vallejo stuff right now, but wondering if there's anything better.
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Apr 12, 2013 18:56
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HardCoil posted:What are good varnishes for aibrushing? I'm looking at Vallejo stuff right now, but wondering if there's anything better. I use the liquitex line and I haven't had any problems, Matte, Glossy, and Satin. You will also get way more for your money. Golden mediums are also really nice. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 18:58
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I use Liquitex matte and Future floor polish for gloss. The Liquitex gloss is fine too, I just like the finish Future gives.
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Apr 12, 2013 19:46
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Pierzak posted:Today's lesson #1: Hey, I can run craft paints through my airbrush! Yes you can, I do all the time, they just need substantial thinning with Windex. My Brew House Bash game set was done with craft paint sprayed through an airbrush. 
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Apr 12, 2013 19:48
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Harkano posted:Anyone had any experience with Modern Masters Reactive Metal Paints? That looks really cool.
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Apr 12, 2013 20:11
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Indolent Bastard posted:Yes you can, I do all the time, they just need substantial thinning with Windex. My Brew House Bash game set was done with craft paint sprayed through an airbrush. VVV: I clean minis in nitro solvent, don't talk to me about what I shouldn't be breathing 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 20:32
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Pierzak posted:Yeah, it seems as it's doable but the thinning's tricky. What does Windex do? Act as flow improver? I'll try some then, thanks. Personally I wouldn't use Windex, it breaks down the acrylic, and has ammonia in it, not something you want to be breathing. Also it makes the paint dry super fast. Plain water works fine, otherwise, look up Less's mixing medium, that works too, I have used both and Golden Airbrush medium works well also. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 12, 2013 |
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Apr 12, 2013 20:37
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Windex works great as an airbrush CLEANER, which if you think about it probably makes it not ideal to thin paint with.
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Apr 12, 2013 22:13
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JoshTheStampede posted:Windex works great as an airbrush CLEANER, which if you think about it probably makes it not ideal to thin paint with. It actually works quite well with Vallejo Game color. What is wrong with using a thinner for cleaning? It is exactly what you so with oil paints? Edit: I missed the post above yours. It does make it dry faster, but that can work for you if it is very thin paint.
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Apr 12, 2013 22:20
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krushgroove posted:Have you tried soaking the bits in airbrush thinner overnight? They're not always recommended, but sometimes those little cleaner brushes are really helpful. Or just use pipe cleaners.  The one and a half hour long airbrush video with the badger guy said to never used those cleaning brushesHe said they make micro scratches in the metal which can never be fixed. You will have slight leakage forever more and it will ruin the seals. I had bought some from Amazon ($0.97 shipped from China, how the hell do they make a profit?) but thanfully I watched the video before I got to use them. I still use them on my plastic side-mix cups. Another gem from that video was to drain your compressor's air tank if it has one. The tank acts as a demi-moisture trap since the hot air sits there for a bit and cools down before it gets used. This can create some condensation on the bottom of your tank which can rust it out and ruin it. Also, I imagine it would be scary as gently caress to have your compressor finally give way while it's under full pressure. 
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Apr 12, 2013 23:52
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:
This is the advantage of using a lovely £10 airbrush, I can abuse the crap out of mine with no worries.  Regarding airbrush thinners/varnishes - for matte varnishing I use slightly watered-down Winsor & Newton artist's acrylic stuff, and for gloss varnishing I've just switched to Pledge Multi-Surface Wax due to its ridiculously low cost. I used to use Vallejo's varnishes, but I could never seem to figure out how to use their matte without it frosting slightly. General thinning mix is 1:2 Galeria matte medium:water, with a few drops of flow-aid. I use the same stuff for normal brushwork, too, so it's pretty handy to have a dropper bottle of the goop lying around. E: was checking my post history and noticed I got the mix ratio wrong. Corrected just in case. 
Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 13, 2013 00:19
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I really loved that color pattern on the new Broadside, so after testing a few colors out, I got the pattern I wanted and starting on the Riptide. Again lovely pictures, but I think I'm going to use a friends real camera when I finish this up. 
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Apr 13, 2013 00:57
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dexefiend posted:It actually works quite well with Vallejo Game color. What is wrong with using a thinner for cleaning? It is exactly what you so with oil paints? I use windex mixed 1:1 with distilled water to thin p3 paints. It works like a dream.
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Apr 13, 2013 00:59
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Khorne Flakes posted:I really loved that color pattern on the new Broadside, so after testing a few colors out, I got the pattern I wanted and starting on the Riptide. Again lovely pictures, but I think I'm going to use a friends real camera when I finish this up. Which paints are you using for that?
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Apr 13, 2013 01:02
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OneTrueBru posted:This is the advantage of using a lovely £10 airbrush, I can abuse the crap out of mine with no worries. You might be right, but the badger guy sells what I imagine are quality brushes and those were his words. I don't know enough to feel confident in disobeying his words just yet.
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Apr 13, 2013 01:03
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Manifest posted:I use windex mixed 1:1 with distilled water to thin p3 paints. It works like a dream. Would diluted windex also work as airbrush cleaner? Trying to determine if I need to keep around two different bottles of windex.
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Apr 13, 2013 01:19
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JoshTheStampede posted:Would diluted windex also work as airbrush cleaner? Trying to determine if I need to keep around two different bottles of windex. If it thins, then it will clean, is how I understand it. I'm a bit leery of the ammonia, but I think someone from Badger posted a definitive 'windex is a great blow-through cleaner, not an airbrush cleaner' statement which I'll go looking for. The point is that you can clean through an airbrush with solvents that you should definitely NOT use for soaking/stripping and cleaning. brb with that link, hopefully. e: it's in my history, somewhere, but here's what I could find on short notice: http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?143479-Just-a-little-tidbit-about-airbrushing-and-windex posted:Fresh off Les Bursley's facebook feed: (https://www.facebook.com/lester.bursley) IrvingWashington fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Apr 13, 2013 |
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Apr 13, 2013 01:22
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Does anyone want some photos fixed up? I want to practice using the adobe programs on photos of minis but dont have enough time to paint and photo my own stuff at the moment. I can't promise anything amazing but if any of you have some HD type photos you want cleaned up a bit I'd love to give it a shot. Either pm me link to some photos or email them to me at theworldoftights@yahoo.co.uk .
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Apr 13, 2013 02:02
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Which paints are you using for that? Main color is 1:1 Sybarite Green and Kabalite Green mix with just Sybarite Green as the highlight. The darker color is Incubi Darkness, though I am not 100% sure on what to highlight with on that.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:03
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I'm sure windex is a great cleaner, my question was more if 1:1 diluted windex would still clean well.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:21
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Khorne Flakes posted:Main color is 1:1 Sybarite Green and Kabalite Green mix with just Sybarite Green as the highlight. The darker color is Incubi Darkness, though I am not 100% sure on what to highlight with on that. Try Kabalite. Or Kabalite & Incubi mixed. However you proceed, that looks really good, and just like the one in WD.
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Apr 13, 2013 02:54
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Try Kabalite. Or Kabalite & Incubi mixed. However you proceed, that looks really good, and just like the one in WD. Its amazing how well it goes on over grey primer too. Two to three very thin coats and it covers real smooth. Bit more and: 
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Apr 13, 2013 03:00
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JoshTheStampede posted:I'm sure windex is a great cleaner, my question was more if 1:1 diluted windex would still clean well. It's not going to be as strong as pure Windex, but all you're adding to the equation is water, so I don't think that's going to cause any problems.
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Apr 13, 2013 03:05
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Khorne Flakes posted:Its amazing how well it goes on over grey primer too. Two to three very thin coats and it covers real smooth. Bit more and: Yeah, I've only done a couple of test models with that group of colours, but I really enjoyed it.
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Apr 13, 2013 03:07
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I put myself at your mercy goons.  my first try hard painting in a long while, and also my first time painting fire... They aren't done yet obviously. I now hate fire.
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Apr 13, 2013 04:06
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LumberingTroll posted:I put myself at your mercy goons. You're photo is a bit dark overall, but ,even considering that, the flame looks a bit too dark especially near the tips, then again I haven't even tried to paint fire so take what I say with a grain or three thousand of salt. I can't really afford an air brush, but how much of high level painting detail am I missing out on because of that. I don't currently have any photos of my more recent stuff, but obviously my post history should give some idea of what I could achieve several months back with a brush alone. I'll try and get some of my more recent stuff/touched up stuff posted by the end of this weekend (assuming I have at least one sunny day to work with.) Edit: Fair enough. That is a night shot, but then again Super Dungeon Explore does take place in, presumably, dank dark dungeons. VVV Edit 2: I'm currently working my way through the base SDE minis, and gently caress all the are the mold lines a bitch or is it just me? Refind Chaos fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Apr 13, 2013 |
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Apr 13, 2013 04:23
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Hmm yeah it is a little dark, I will see if I can brighten it up a little. Real fire is dark at the tips btw. 
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Apr 13, 2013 04:26
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When I do fire, I coat the entire area in a white or off white. I then coat it with yellow or a yellow ink. I then transition up through orange, red, scorched brown, to black. I find that having the bright yellow transition all the way to black really makes it stand out.
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Apr 13, 2013 04:51
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 It may not be accurate, but it looks good on the table! That was just white, yellow, red on the tips.
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Apr 13, 2013 04:57
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JoshTheStampede posted:I'm sure windex is a great cleaner, my question was more if 1:1 diluted windex would still clean well. It works ok (just tried it). Honestly I think 99% alcohol is the best cleaner for acrylic gunk. Windex is a better thinner than alcahol because it doesn't evaporate extremely fast.
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Apr 13, 2013 05:56
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