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What is going on when the motor gets quiet after 5K rpms? Or relatively quiet? I tracked it yesterday and as I accelerated through 4th gear, it would sound normal, but after 5000 I couldn't hear any motor or exhaust over the wind. Longpig Bard fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Mar 25, 2013 |
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Mar 25, 2013 17:07
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That's called 'hauling rear end'
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Mar 25, 2013 23:15
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Bumming Your Scene posted:after 5000 I couldn't hear any motor or exhaust over the wind. Poor aerodynamics 
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Mar 26, 2013 00:21
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Over 5k rpm is the engine's natural resonant frequency.
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Mar 26, 2013 02:10
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Over 5k rpm you're going faster than the speed of sound so your exhaust note literally cannot catch up to your ears.
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Mar 26, 2013 02:21
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Apropos of nothing, but holy gently caress I've been here over 10 years?!
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Mar 26, 2013 04:44
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Almost half as long as your project!  I kid, I kid.
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Mar 26, 2013 04:51
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Any suggestions for a tune/intake on a 2012 GT with Roush exhaust in the South Bay area?
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Mar 27, 2013 23:24
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frozenphil posted:Apropos of nothing, but holy gently caress I've been here over 10 years?! holy poo poo yeah. And I lurked before that.
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Mar 28, 2013 18:20
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Locobono posted:holy poo poo yeah. And I lurked before that. Yeah, I lurked for a few years before ever creating an account. SA, and AI in particular, outlasted my marriage!
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Mar 29, 2013 03:32
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Well enough talking the talk, and now its time to start walking the walk. For the last year I said I was gonna buy a torque arm and steering shaft. Today I just did it! My car only needs to get the the sway bar, kmember/a-arms, coil overs, and some other misc parts and I will have a complete Maximum Motorsports Maximum Grip suspension setup. As seen from here http://www.maximummotorsports.com/content/large_images/packgd_sys/GB-1_LG.jpg Perhaps I should start working on beefing up the motor? I also want to do my seats. I want something that can hug me a little better when I am driving around the corners. any ideas? I really want Recaro, but I dont think anything they make, that I like will fit a 99-04 car. Has anyone have any experience with TMI recovering the stock frame seats?
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Apr 1, 2013 02:12
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What can you guys tell me about replacing the rear axle seals on an '03 V6? My dad's is slowly leaking from both the cover and the passenger side. I'm guessing I would just have to pop a c-clip or something like that to pull the axle, then I can smack a new bearing and seal in there?
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Apr 13, 2013 09:15
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Lowclock posted:What can you guys tell me about replacing the rear axle seals on an '03 V6? My dad's is slowly leaking from both the cover and the passenger side. I'm guessing I would just have to pop a c-clip or something like that to pull the axle, then I can smack a new bearing and seal in there? Little more to it than that, but yeah; pretty much.
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Apr 14, 2013 04:33
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Finally, the car is back off storage insurance and back on the road! Took my parts over to the shop to get them installed! my completely unnecessary and over the top suspension for a hardly driven street car is almost complete!
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Apr 15, 2013 19:12
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I put on a Strano front sway bar on my '13... got a loud clunk today hitting a pothole while making a turn. I don't get any clunks hitting bumps, just a couple clunks with potholes. Is that just what happens with a stiffer setup?
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Apr 16, 2013 00:59
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Bumming Your Scene posted:I put on a Strano front sway bar on my '13... got a loud clunk today hitting a pothole while making a turn. I don't get any clunks hitting bumps, just a couple clunks with potholes. Is that just what happens with a stiffer setup? I would think that a stiffer setup would restrict movement compared to stock. Is everything still attached? Is the geometry of the new bar the same as the old one? I remember when my escort made awful clanking sounds in turns when the front passenger sway bar downlink rusted away. I've got some questions of my own too: I have a '99 v6 that is awful in the wind on the highway. The only comparison I have is my old '95 escort which seemed way more stable in crosswinds. I would say that my car is blown around so much that it's almost dangerous to drive. Passing semis blows my car at least half way across the lane if you don't try to correct it. Is this normal? Could it be worn suspension bushings? Worn dampers? A property inherent to RWD live axles? lovely aero design on 1st year new edges?
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Apr 16, 2013 02:34
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That doesn't sound like anything I ever experienced with my old '03 GT. On a different note, I keep telling myself that 400plus hp is enough on my '12 GT. Buuuut I keep looking at the Roush 625 hp or Beefcake Paxton supercharger kits, with one in the shopping cart. Almost have the wife's ok, but I can't make myself pull the trigger, if I go the 'it's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission' route. Had my bonus check been what it should have been, one of the two would already be on the way 
Tide fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 16, 2013 |
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Apr 16, 2013 21:12
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SanitysEdge posted:I've got some questions of my own too: I have a '99 v6 that is awful in the wind on the highway. The only comparison I have is my old '95 escort which seemed way more stable in crosswinds. I would say that my car is blown around so much that it's almost dangerous to drive. Passing semis blows my car at least half way across the lane if you don't try to correct it. Is this normal? Could it be worn suspension bushings? Worn dampers? A property inherent to RWD live axles? lovely aero design on 1st year new edges? Never had that on my '00 GT. How are your tires doing? I went from "hard to keep straight" to "planted as gently caress" when I replaced my lovely worn out tires.
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Apr 16, 2013 22:56
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My tires are old and busted. Especially the fronts. Thats probably the problem.
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Apr 16, 2013 23:40
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A local club just dumped a bunch of photos from the last Autocross I ran at. Good way to shred tires.
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Apr 17, 2013 00:50
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Hello there mustang thread. Ive been keeping an eye on the craigslist mustangs in my area lately to get an idea of the prices and I just had a few questions. Im looking at used 2002-2008 models, regarding general reliability are the late model 4th gens more trustworthy than the early 5th gens? I could go either way on my preference for looks but the only thing I know how to do is replacing brake pads and rotors so Id prefer the platform with less chance of breaking down. Also, how much is too much to pay for a 4th gen? Theres a 2004 V8 stick with 54k in leather for $7650 near me.
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Apr 19, 2013 03:58
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Cage posted:Hello there mustang thread. Ive been keeping an eye on the craigslist mustangs in my area lately to get an idea of the prices and I just had a few questions. Im looking at used 2002-2008 models, regarding general reliability are the late model 4th gens more trustworthy than the early 5th gens? I could go either way on my preference for looks but the only thing I know how to do is replacing brake pads and rotors so Id prefer the platform with less chance of breaking down. New Edge Mustangs, for the most part, were pretty drat reliable. The S197 is as well ... honestly, I would say if you find a good deal, you can't go wrong with either. With any car, things will break and have to be fixed, but for the most part, Mustangs are probably above average in terms of poo poo breaking. The S197 will, generally speaking, have more power. The New Edge (like the 2004 you are looking at) used a 16 valve SOHC 4.6L V8, which made around 270hp/300tq. The S197 got the 24 valve SOHC 4.6 with a bit more HP and TQ (300/320). I don't honestly feel that my 2000 New Edge is lacking, really, but I wouldn't mind having an extra 10% or so, either. Most people don't refer to them as 1/2/3/4/5 gen, by the way. The OP has a pretty good guide to what they're referred to, but suffice to say the 98-04 was the "New Edge" and the 05-current is the S197.
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Apr 19, 2013 08:41
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Mustang Club of America is doing "Ponies in the Park" this weekend at Ford Arena in Beaumont, Tx. I'm going on Sunday morning. http://www.poniesinthepark.com/
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Apr 19, 2013 19:04
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I just got back from the shop! After getting my crooked subframes re-done so the are strait, it made my rear-end appear to be 1" offset. I had to get my rear axle and my panhard bar adjusted before I got the torque arm installed! my new steering shaft is installed and everything feels great. My new problem is that when the axle adjusted my gears make absolutely HORRIBLE gear whine. Before it was a little whiny on deceleration. Now its just awful loud accelerating and decelerating! So I have to save up and get that redone. UGGG!!!! I added about 50lb of weight, and removed about 20lb of lovely upper control arm suspension parts! I just need a kmember setup, coil overs, and a sway bar and I have everything Maximum Motorsports has to offer. Here is a pic Gad-zooks my rear end is dirty. I really need to get my car on a lift and do some detailing! 
kalvick fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 19, 2013 |
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Apr 19, 2013 19:12
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I have to deal with this gear whine problem now. Its just awful. I am gonna get another set of 3.73 gears. Should I go with Motive or Ford Racing? Are there pro's or con's for either brand?
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Apr 22, 2013 18:35
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Cage posted:Hello there mustang thread. Ive been keeping an eye on the craigslist mustangs in my area lately to get an idea of the prices and I just had a few questions. Im looking at used 2002-2008 models, regarding general reliability are the late model 4th gens more trustworthy than the early 5th gens? I could go either way on my preference for looks but the only thing I know how to do is replacing brake pads and rotors so Id prefer the platform with less chance of breaking down. I picked up my 2000 GT 5speed w/ 76,000mi for $6300 a few months ago. On one hand I think that's a decent price for a V8 stang (good price on any car with those miles, these days it seems) - on the other hand it's gold so I'll never be able to sell it.
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Apr 22, 2013 22:27
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I have a 13 5.0. I had a 05 4.6 before that. I've had the car since last July. I have just started with the mods and I think I'm going to keep in subdued somewhat because I like the sleeper look. The problem I've been having so far is with the gearshift -- these are garbage. There's many threads on other forums about how lovely the transmissions are in these cars, and that's definitely the truth. Car has not even 7000 miles on it and every time I shift into 3rd gear it's an adventure. Will it go in without clunking? Will I get locked out of 3rd completely? (happens at high RPM sometimes and it really sucks.) Just sort of frustrating stuff like that. The sound system is also terrible. It comes with Sirius radio which is already served up at a crappy bitrate to begin with, but it somehow sounds worse in this car than any other Sirius setup I've heard before. I bought a diablosport intune tuner and ordered custom tunes from BAMA (American Muscle) and I got the tune files. When I tried to import them into the tuner it couldn't recognize them. Still working with Bama to sort that out. Also all sorts of "bad luck" stuff -- like when I was installing the hood struts on the car (prop rod on a 36K car is not cheapskate at all, Ford) I accidentally dropped a hood bolt into one of the engine compartment's many "mystery holes." Mystery holes are fine usually but the problem is that these cars have a plastic cover on the bottom that runs all the way to the tranny. So once it fell down into there the only way to get the bolt out was to take off the plastic underside crap. No way, Jose. Replacement hood bolt was something like $1.80. Silly stuff I've done too -- I backed into my garage once and later had to leave to go somewhere. Well reverse on the 6 speed is "push down the shifter and move it to the left of first gear" which is fine on paper but sort of sucks in practical application. So while I was still getting used to the gear shift, I went to pull the car out of the garage but had it in reverse instead of first gear... backed up a little -- just a few feet before I stopped. This was not before backing into an old foosball table I have in the garage. One of those peg things punched a hole in my tail light. Ouch -- not a huge deal though, right? I remember buying replacement tail lights for my 2005 and it was like $200. Not the 2013. The slights are all LED and you can't just replace the housing -- it's the whole kit and caboodle. Price for one tail light? $1000. So for a "working man's sports car" it's not so hot. You can't have $1000 tail lights on a car and say that it's an everyman mobile. It's just not. Anyway if I had it to do over again, knowing how this car is, I would have probably gotten the SHO instead. I like the car, but there are things about it that I really don't like. Maybe I just wish the gearshift didnt' suck so bad. Maybe I wish I would have ponied up the bucks for the Boss 302.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:13
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Did you accidentally shift it into reverse, or did you leave it parked in reverse and forgot to shift it into first? I've never really had this problem, but I think a big part of that is that I got the backup camera option, so I get an additional visual indication of "hey, you're in reverse". Ultimately, I think no matter how the gearshift is laid out, you should either get in the habit of parking in first gear or make sure to always put the car in neutral and shift to first before starting to drive.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:33
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Krakkles posted:Assuming it's in good shape, that's a good price. I paid $5500 for a 2000 GT with more than double the miles about a year ago, and I still don't feel like it was a bad deal. New Edge dyno stock around 230rwhp with a mt, 15% drivetrain loss assumption = 270 crank horsepower S197 dyno stock around 270rwhp with a mt, 15% drivetrain loss assumption = 317 crank horsepower. 47 horsepower is a pretty big difference and it is very noticable. The 3 valve 4.6 also gain power easier from bolt ons because they breath better with the extra valve, so intakes can add as much as 30rwhp with a 93 octane tune. For example mine dynoed 305rwhp with a 93 octane tune and a C&L intake. It put down 265 with the stock intake and 87 octane. Intake, Cams, and Headers can get an otherwise stock s197 to around 350rwhp with the right tune. The New Edge and other fox platform cars are much lighter and can be made even more so. They also drive like a small car. However the S197 is much stiffer, but that comes with a boat like feel because its so big, long hood, etc. Just my opinion. amp281 fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 20:01
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PT6A posted:Did you accidentally shift it into reverse, or did you leave it parked in reverse and forgot to shift it into first? I've never really had this problem, but I think a big part of that is that I got the backup camera option, so I get an additional visual indication of "hey, you're in reverse". Ultimately, I think no matter how the gearshift is laid out, you should either get in the habit of parking in first gear or make sure to always put the car in neutral and shift to first before starting to drive. No - I had the car in 2nd gear (I usually leave the car parked in 2nd or 4th -- just a personal preference.) I accidentally shifted into reverse like a derp. Before I got used to the gearbox I would reflexively always push down a little on the shifter when changing gears. Doing this when going into first gear from a stop will put the car in reverse quite often. I've changed the way I deal with it now, but it was a bit of a learning curve which is surprising since I've been driving standards for over 20 years now. I do see your point though. I've found the best way to ensure that you're in 1st from a stop in these cars is to shift into 2nd first (easy enough) and then just slide it up to first. I don't have to do it often now as I've gotten pretty good with the gearbox but when in doubt that's the method I use. Also for hard shifts into 3rd it helps if I let the spring snap the shifter to the middle right before and just press up into 3rd rather than manhandling it from 2 to 3 like I used to be able to in my 05. That said, I did get the BAMA tune on today and the thing is noticeably peppier. I went from the canned diablosport tune back to the stocker and then on to the 93 racing tune and there is a substantial difference in power across the band between the three, like they said there would be. I wouldn't be surprised if it's 10+ HP gain on a dyno. Worth it for a cheap mod that's just adjusting software parameters. I know that the MGW shifter has a stiffer spring which makes this less of an issue. The Hurst shifter offered for these doesn't have the spring at all. I don't know HOW they manage that without drama.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:48
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I agree, just my personal experience has been that 270 is "enough to be happy", 317 would be nice as hell. I think roger wilco probably hit on the biggest point (especially for this guy, potentially, given what he said about reliability) - the New Edge, generally, will probably have less expensive parts. I've been mostly shocked by how cheap parts for this car are. My brake pads were something like $200 but that's my own drat fault.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:58
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Yeah there is very little chance I keep the car after the B2B warranty expires because I have no interest in paying out of pocket for crap like tail lights that cost a grand.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:56
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Oh, almost forgot ... when you're shifting, do you put your hand on top of the shifter? Try grabbing it from the side (like, you know, you might grab ... something similarly shaped ...) instead. It might keep you from inadvertently pressuring it downward.
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Apr 23, 2013 22:22
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Krakkles posted:Oh, almost forgot ... when you're shifting, do you put your hand on top of the shifter? Try grabbing it from the side (like, you know, you might grab ... something similarly shaped ...) instead. It might keep you from inadvertently pressuring it downward. Heh it's funny you should mention that because changing the shift ball changed the way I shift where I grab the shifter from the side. On the stock one because of the way it was shaped I found myself grabbing it more from the top which I think was a big part of the problem.
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Apr 23, 2013 22:28
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roger wilco posted:That said, I did get the BAMA tune on today and the thing is noticeably peppier. I went from the canned diablosport tune back to the stocker and then on to the 93 racing tune and there is a substantial difference in power across the band between the three, like they said there would be. I wouldn't be surprised if it's 10+ HP gain on a dyno. Worth it for a cheap mod that's just adjusting software parameters. Because frozenphil hasn't chimed in yet: BAMA is the company that made the retarded tune that caused a bunch of 5.0s to explode. I can't imagine they're selling the same horrible tune these days, but then again they don't seem to be terribly bright--the original tune blew engines because they disabled the knock sensors.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:14
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roger wilco posted:The problem I've been having so far is with the gearshift -- these are garbage. There's many threads on other forums about how lovely the transmissions are in these cars, and that's definitely the truth. Car has not even 7000 miles on it and every time I shift into 3rd gear it's an adventure. Will it go in without clunking? Will I get locked out of 3rd completely? (happens at high RPM sometimes and it really sucks.) Just sort of frustrating stuff like that. The sound system is also terrible. It comes with Sirius radio which is already served up at a crappy bitrate to begin with, but it somehow sounds worse in this car than any other Sirius setup I've heard before. I have the exact same problem with my '13 GT, except mine is worst going from 1st -> 2nd, going into 3rd sometimes "clunks" too. It has a little over 5k miles and it hasn't gotten any better, maybe a little worse. I've found that it shifts much smoother if you leave the gearshift in neutral for a split second. It seems incredibly finicky, it grinds and clunks if you don't shift it exactly like it wants. I've been planning on taking mine to the dealership for a while now but I haven't had time.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:23
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I know, different car and everything, but my '00 GT clunked going from 1 to 2 and sometimes locked me out of a gear unless I clutched it in neutral... until I had the gearbox oil changed out. With fresh, fancy fluid it shifts like warm butter.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:35
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AWWNAW posted:I have the exact same problem with my '13 GT, except mine is worst going from 1st -> 2nd, going into 3rd sometimes "clunks" too. It has a little over 5k miles and it hasn't gotten any better, maybe a little worse. I've found that it shifts much smoother if you leave the gearshift in neutral for a split second. It seems incredibly finicky, it grinds and clunks if you don't shift it exactly like it wants. I've been planning on taking mine to the dealership for a while now but I haven't had time. The reverse lock out in our cars is freaking terrible. To combat against it, I trained myself to go to second then first every time when starting out. As far as a better shifter? I picked up the Barton Industries shifter a few months ago. Quite a bit notchier but has great feel and about half the throws of the stock shifter. Rock solid with zero play. It also helps out tremendously with the dreaded R instead of 1st buggaboo. About the only thing I have to bitch about these days is the spongy feeling in the clutch after a hard run through any gear. Even a hard fourth or fifth gear run makes it feel like stepping on bloated roadkill. Well, that and not having the cash for the Roush blower. Stock vs Barton (not me) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89dZYnVkMBA
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Apr 24, 2013 02:06
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Tilt the stick left first, then push it in to go to reverse.
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Apr 24, 2013 02:58
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amp281 posted:New Edge dyno stock around 230rwhp with a mt, 15% drivetrain loss assumption = 270 crank horsepower S197 dyno stock around 270rwhp with a mt, 15% drivetrain loss assumption = 317 crank horsepower. 47 horsepower is a pretty big difference and it is very noticable. The exhaust system also isnt very ideal on the new edges. I wish i could mix and match all sorts of different axle backs+x pipes like s197 owners can. My '02 sounds so plain jane with its magnaflow.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:46
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