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Lethemonster posted:I'm starting to get really fed up with using my airbrush. I seem to spend far more time pulling it apart, fiddling with it, cleaning it and trying not to throw it out the window than I do actually painting with it. What model airbrush do you have? What PSI are you running? Are you trying to thin thick paints down to airbrush consistency? Have you considered just buying pre-thinned airbrush paint like Vallejo Model Air or Badger Minitaire paints (my personal favorite, easily doubles as thin brush paint and the bottles are HUGE compared to Citadel pots or VMA bottles). I'm not trying to grill you here; I felt this exact same way when I got my first airbrush. I'm not a master class airbrush painter but I quickly learned that there there are products and techniques out there that can make airbrushing 100 times more enjoyable. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 08:41
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Got a dude on ebay asking about my broadside, he wants to commission an entire army done that way. I cant think of anything that would drive me to I thought you were going on about how simple that paintjob was. Primer, putty, paint, right? Wouldn't this basically be the easiest commission you could get? Just jack up your price to wherever'd make you happy and buy more putty. I mean, it could be worse. You could be painting foot guard to a high standard.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:43
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than that.
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serious gaylord posted:I've thougth about commission painting to get some extra cash but yeah this would kill me. The only thing I could think would not lead to imminent suicide would be me just painting models I like, then selling them on afterwards. That way I scratch my painting itch and essentially get models for free. Well I told him no anyway, I only paint as a bit of stress relief and I enjoy selling them on afterwards because I dont do anything with them. Doing the same paint job over and over again would be insane I dont know how army painters do it. Fix posted:
Yes, its very simple, I just dont want to do it on 50+ minis. That way madness lies. Limp Wristed Limey fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 08:51
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serious gaylord posted:I've thougth about commission painting to get some extra cash but yeah this would kill me. The only thing I could think would not lead to imminent suicide would be me just painting models I like, then selling them on afterwards. That way I scratch my painting itch and essentially get models for free. This is pretty much me. I think when I am 'done' painting my 40K stuff I might try painting up units and such in various standard colors and see what I can get for them. I just like playing with my own stuff too much to make it a regular thing though, even if it means free leftover bitz and stuff like that.
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Apr 24, 2013 08:55
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Yes, its very simple, I just dont want to do it on 50+ minis. That way madness lies.
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Apr 24, 2013 09:05
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Pacheeco posted:What model airbrush do you have? What PSI are you running? Are you trying to thin thick paints down to airbrush consistency? Have you considered just buying pre-thinned airbrush paint like Vallejo Model Air or Badger Minitaire paints (my personal favorite, easily doubles as thin brush paint and the bottles are HUGE compared to Citadel pots or VMA bottles). I'm not trying to grill you here; I felt this exact same way when I got my first airbrush. I'm not a master class airbrush painter but I quickly learned that there there are products and techniques out there that can make airbrushing 100 times more enjoyable. Yeah one thing I am I am learning now is that I was trying to spray paints at too low a PSI. I was using 10-15 when I first started but now I blast the stuff out at 25+, this is using Vallejo Model Air paints.
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Apr 24, 2013 09:11
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Got a dude on ebay asking about my broadside, he wants to commission an entire army done that way. I cant think of anything that would drive me to I'ts funny yout say this. MSP is currently doing a comision for iceworld IG and he is using your colors as inspiration. It might be worth it. Some people are rich and don't mind paying thousands for sweet minis. See how much that XV-88 sells for and use it as a basis for your rate. It might be way out of his league buy you never know v  v
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Apr 24, 2013 09:32
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I'ts funny yout say this. MSP is currently doing a comision for iceworld IG and he is using your colors as inspiration. It might be worth it. Some people are rich and don't mind paying thousands for sweet minis. See how much that XV-88 sells for and use it as a basis for your rate. It might be way out of his league buy you never know v Well its on a Buy It Now for £65 and I bought it for £24 and he seemed happy with the price. Its not just the money and boredom doing the paint job its the pressure of having to do it. Job, wife, kids and all that entails is stressful enough without having to worry about an angry dude questioning where his second pathfinder squad is that was supposed to have been done a week ago.
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Apr 24, 2013 09:39
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Yeah one thing I am I am learning now is that I was trying to spray paints at too low a PSI. I was using 10-15 when I first started but now I blast the stuff out at 25+, this is using Vallejo Model Air paints. I like 20-25 PSI for doing general base coating although that needs to be adjusted down based on how fine (close to the model) I need to get or else the paint spiders all over the place. Vallejo Surface Primer is the best primer I've ever used and that I usually crank up to 30 PSI or so that way it doesn't cake up and clog the needle. If that ever does happen I keep a crappy old toothbrush around to quickly scrub the dried up paint off the needlepoint and nozzle (not with my Sotar though, that needle is ridiculously easy to bend).
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Apr 24, 2013 10:20
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Generally, I use the same pressure range as Pacheeco, but I'm a bit more lazy when cleaning tip-dry: I just pinch the dried paint off with my fingernails. I probably wouldn't do this if I was using a nice airbrush mind you, for fear of damaging the nozzle. Anyway,  Deathwing Squad complete! (click for flaws)   I'm not overly happy with Barachiel. I tried painting his sword in the classic "crackling lightning" style twice, but it ended up looking awful as I couldn't work out how to neatly handle the indentation in the middle of the blade. Finally just gave up and went with the easy airbrush technique. The metallic wing-thingies and his tabard are a bit questionably-executed too, but they'll do the job.
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Apr 24, 2013 11:27
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OneTrueBru posted:(click for flaws) I think this is broken. I keep clicking but the flaws remain unseen. Seriously these are wonderful.
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Apr 24, 2013 12:06
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OneTrueBru posted:Generally, I use the same pressure range as Pacheeco, but I'm a bit more lazy when cleaning tip-dry: I just pinch the dried paint off with my fingernails. I probably wouldn't do this if I was using a nice airbrush mind you, for fear of damaging the nozzle. Very nicely done and it looks very nice. Its a shame that the sword dude is such a goofy mini. The rest of the DV set looks good but that has to be the worst mini in the box. You have managed to redeem him though.
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Apr 24, 2013 12:20
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CyberLord XP posted:I think this is broken. I keep clicking but the flaws remain unseen. Seriously these are wonderful. Seconded, they're amazing. The shading is top-notch, was it done with oil washes, OTB?
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Apr 24, 2013 12:25
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ineptmule posted:Here's my first Tau model. Testing out the colour scheme which is basically ripped off from the army book. When I start to work on the Pathfinders and Fire Warriors the difference from the 'Eavy Metal scheme will be more pronounced, as they will have grey fatigues under the armour, and a lot less black. I just want to chime in that this looks great. I really like the exoskeleton shading look on the armor joints. It makes it look very realistic. Any chance of sharing what you did to pull that part off so well? Specifically the shoulder pad.
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Apr 24, 2013 12:46
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Under 15 posted:
Its just 2 washes. White Primer -> Reikland Fleshshade -> Agrax Earthshade. Just be neat with it and make sure it pools in the recessed wood grain.
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Apr 24, 2013 12:50
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KozmoNaut posted:Seconded, they're amazing. The shading is top-notch, was it done with oil washes, OTB? Yeah, the white armour is just a basic zenithial job, with a brown oil wash and some edge highlighting. The full colour list is in my post history, as a few people asked about it a while back. Limp Wristed Limey posted:Very nicely done and it looks very nice. Its a shame that the sword dude is such a goofy mini. The rest of the DV set looks good but that has to be the worst mini in the box. You have managed to redeem him though. Barachiel's a teensy bit too cluttered, I think. The tabard forming such a massive block of colour probably doesn't help him blend in with the rest of the squad either. He's probably a miniature that would benefit from some colour theory wizardry, but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to that sort of thing.
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Apr 24, 2013 12:55
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I'm tired of posting Orks against a plain white backdrop. Time to make some terrain!   This is my very first go creating terrain of any kind. The stucco mix is too thick, but once it dries I'll sand away the excess and clean it up slightly. Once thats done I can go nuts with 'orkifying' the building with scrap metal, grafitti, and bullet holes. Here is how I'm roughly imagining it.  You'll also notice the blue foam ork down to the left. He is my current mockup for scratchbuilding Meganobs. I figure I can use blue foam as a base to build off of with plastruct tubing and styrene sheets. Also Insta Mold pressing some techno things to stick all over. The future is green!
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Apr 24, 2013 14:31
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Purgey posted:I'm tired of posting Orks against a plain white backdrop. Time to make some terrain! He looks like he's about to go for his first swim 
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Apr 24, 2013 15:12
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OneTrueBru posted:Generally, I use the same pressure range as Pacheeco, but I'm a bit more lazy when cleaning tip-dry: I just pinch the dried paint off with my fingernails. I probably wouldn't do this if I was using a nice airbrush mind you, for fear of damaging the nozzle. With everyone's recent obsession with pigments and complimentary colored shading and OSL and whatever, it's so goddamn refreshing to see something done in a classic clean and bright style. Great job.
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Apr 24, 2013 15:41
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jadebullet posted:I just want to chime in that this looks great. I really like the exoskeleton shading look on the armor joints. It makes it look very realistic. Any chance of sharing what you did to pull that part off so well? Not at all, happy to share. I'm not quite sure which bit you mean so I'll just go over it all. The black armour plates are the simplest, just Abaddon Black highlighted first with Skavenblight Dinge and then Stormvermin Fur. The brownish armour is a 7:1 mix of Doombull Brown:Khorne Red, airbrushed on as the base coat, washed with Reikland Fleshshade. Then it's just a highlight of Tuskgor Fur. The shading, which I think you may be talking about is just blacklining with Nuln Oil - painting the wash into the cracks. Really simple if you've got a thin enough brush, and effective on models like Marines and Tau.
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Apr 24, 2013 15:59
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Any tips for breaking apart already assembled models? I just got a few assembled assault marines from a friend and it seems they would be much easier to paint without thier jet packs on.
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Apr 24, 2013 16:38
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Roshambo posted:Any tips for breaking apart already assembled models? I just got a few assembled assault marines from a friend and it seems they would be much easier to paint without thier jet packs on. If they used super glue, there's a few things you can do. Put them in the freezer and try prying them apart, or a long soak in simple green will sometimes weaken the bond. If they used plastic cement, welp.
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Apr 24, 2013 16:42
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JoshTheStampede posted:If they used super glue, there's a few things you can do. Put them in the freezer and try prying them apart, or a long soak in Corrected your error. If they used plastic cement, get a hobby knife or learn to live with mounted back packs.
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Apr 24, 2013 16:45
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A razor saw might be able to cut away the hump under the packs - I haven't tried this yet but I have some older models I might be converting to jump infantry just for the heck of it, so it could work. You'd have to be careful where the saw goes, the Xacto saw is pretty big but I'm sure someone like Tamiya, etc., offer a smaller saw.
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Apr 24, 2013 16:50
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Silhouette posted:With everyone's recent obsession with pigments and complimentary colored shading and OSL and whatever, it's so goddamn refreshing to see something done in a classic clean and bright style. Great job. He had me at caution stripes  I believe the introductory battle report in my first 40k book (3rd Edition BBR) was ultramarines vs biel tan eldar. The marines had caution striped chainfists and I believe green rimmed bases. Retro as hell yet awesome I miss my Big Black Rulebook. I feel like I should find one just to own it again
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Apr 24, 2013 17:05
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Silhouette posted:With everyone's recent obsession with pigments and complimentary colored shading and OSL and whatever, it's so goddamn refreshing to see something done in a classic clean and bright style. Great job. Thanks. I actually considered attacking them with pigments, since I picked up a few pots the other day, but the thought of fixing mistakes on predominately white models scared me too much.  Roshambo posted:Any tips for breaking apart already assembled models? I just got a few assembled assault marines from a friend and it seems they would be much easier to paint without thier jet packs on. Are the assault marines the really old ones, with the metal jump-packs? If so, definitely try the freezer trick that JoshTheStampede suggested; it'll almost always deal with super-glued models.
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Apr 24, 2013 17:07
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Lethemonster posted:I'm starting to get really fed up with using my airbrush. I seem to spend far more time pulling it apart, fiddling with it, cleaning it and trying not to throw it out the window than I do actually painting with it. Fairly new to airbrushing, and I'm having similar problems. Everyone says, "thin your paints more," but I always think I'm thinning them too much. I'm using Vallejo Game Color and Vallejo Model Color (which is thicker). Does anyone out there airbrush with these particular paint families, and if so, how much do you thin? I'm thinning as much as 2:1 water:paint with the Game Color and an even higher ratio with the Model Color. I always hear, "like skim milk" or some such, and it feels like I'm thinning at least that much, if not more. Oh hey, also: I live in a very, very dry area. Like, a desert. Can I use a drying retarder when I paint with an airbrush? I mean, will that keep the paint liquid longer after exiting the brush?
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Apr 24, 2013 18:49
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Lincoln posted:Fairly new to airbrushing, and I'm having similar problems. Everyone says, "thin your paints more," but I always think I'm thinning them too much. I'm using Vallejo Game Color and Vallejo Model Color (which is thicker). Does anyone out there airbrush with these particular paint families, and if so, how much do you thin? I'm thinning as much as 2:1 water:paint with the Game Color and an even higher ratio with the Model Color. I always hear, "like skim milk" or some such, and it feels like I'm thinning at least that much, if not more. A few things I do: First, whenever I start using my airbrush, I blow water or cleaner through it, just a few drops, to make sure its not already clogged from the last time or if I didn't clean it well or whatever. If it isn't blowing water, then I deal with that, which usually is just a stuck needle or a little bit of dried gunk in the cup or whatever. Better to learn that before you put paint in and have to clean it out and waste it. Two, even different colors in the same range can have varying properties. Vallejo Surface Primer white and grey go through my .3 needle just fine with no thinning, but the black needs thinned. They don't look any different to the eye, though. If you overthin, the only drawback will be that you need to spray another coat to get full coverage. If you're spraying right you won't have the streaks or pooling that overthinned brush painting can cause. There's no perfect formula, really. Skim Milk or no, it really comes down to "thin it until it works". And yes, you can use drying retarder in an airbrush, and yes it should delay dry tip and keep the paint wet longer, though airbrushed stuff dries so fast you're talking about extending 30 seconds to 2 minutes or whatever.
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Apr 24, 2013 19:13
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Hey dudes, I just realised that some buggers pinched my brush roll and I'm out of brushes. I had bought them all individually and built up a small collection of sizes and now I'm going to need new ones. Does anyone here know or can recommend a good set of brushes? So rather than buying individual sizes, I can get a small collection in one set?
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Apr 24, 2013 19:18
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Lincoln posted:Fairly new to airbrushing, and I'm having similar problems. Everyone says, "thin your paints more," but I always think I'm thinning them too much. I'm using Vallejo Game Color and Vallejo Model Color (which is thicker). Does anyone out there airbrush with these particular paint families, and if so, how much do you thin? I'm thinning as much as 2:1 water:paint with the Game Color and an even higher ratio with the Model Color. I always hear, "like skim milk" or some such, and it feels like I'm thinning at least that much, if not more. I gave up trying to thin my own paints pretty quickly. Unless you need a very specific color that no other company makes a comparable for I would highly recommend just getting some Vallejo Model Air (tons of variation on colors that are more for replica scale model painting) or Badger Minitaire paint (if you want colors closer to Citadel paints). Yes, you can use drying retarder in airbrush paint although when it hits the model you want the paint to be half way to dry already or else you start getting pooling and weird paint oddities. You will have to play with different ratios to find what works best for your area though. Use bits of sprue as spray test pieces.
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Apr 24, 2013 19:22
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 OneTrueBru posted:Yeah, the white armour is just a basic zenithial job, with a brown oil wash and some edge highlighting. The full colour list is in my post history, as a few people asked about it a while back. e: Apparently Neal is a goon, because he answered my manchild e-prayer BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 19:43
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Lincoln posted:I'm using Vallejo Game Color and Vallejo Model Color (which is thicker). Does anyone out there airbrush with these particular paint families, and if so, how much do you thin? I use VGC paints for pretty much everything, and 2:1 thinner:paint is the ratio that I usually stick to as well. I don't thin with plain old water though, instead I use that 'Les Bursley' mix that everyone seems to use for making washes. Generally, 2:1 water:matte medium, and a few drops of flow-aid should function as an excellent general-purpose thinner, but you may have to adjust the ratio depending on how thick n' gloopy your medium is. As an added benefit, matte medium will dry more slowly than water, so this mix will also function as a mild drying retarder (emphasis on mild, tip-dry will still occur quickly). BULBASAUR posted:Do you water down the wash a lot? I did a dark grey oil wash over white and it was thick. As for pigments you can always pigment after you varnish. Just wipe it off with water if you don't like how it looks! Yeah, the oil wash was fairly dilute. In fact, I probably added far too much white spirit, as the mix separated pretty quickly and needed frequent stirring to remain useable! I'll definitely give the pigments a shot on my next set of models. Not quite sure what they'll be yet, but I'd really like to try some weathering, battle-damage etc. Squiggly Beast fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 20:09
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OneTrueBru posted:I don't thin with plain old water though, instead I use that 'Les Bursley' mix that everyone seems to use for making washes. Oh, yeah, this too. I use that mix for airbrush thinning and also for making washes.
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Apr 24, 2013 20:21
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I haven't pai ted in a while, and I want to get back into it. Everyone here seems to be using airbrushes now, which I've never done. Pretend I am literally an idiot and recommend babby's first airbrush kit. Can I get a cheap one to practice base coats and wide swathes of color before I drop a couple hundo on a quality piece of equipment?
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Apr 24, 2013 21:19
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Zok_Smoth posted:I haven't pai ted in a while, and I want to get back into it. Everyone here seems to be using airbrushes now, which I've never done. Yes, you certainly can, and a 15 dollar piece of poo poo airbrush will put down good primer, base coats, and varnish. If you want to start blending colors, that's when you need to invest in something nicer.
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Apr 24, 2013 21:22
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Flipswitch posted:Hey dudes, I just realised that some buggers pinched my brush roll and I'm out of brushes. I had bought them all individually and built up a small collection of sizes and now I'm going to need new ones. Does anyone here know or can recommend a good set of brushes? So rather than buying individual sizes, I can get a small collection in one set?
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Apr 24, 2013 21:44
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Fair point, thinking about it. I didn't use half of the brushes in that set anyway. Still sucks that someone decided to steal them. Partly my fault for leaving them in the LGS, but still sucks.
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Apr 24, 2013 22:07
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Zok_Smoth posted:I haven't pai ted in a while, and I want to get back into it. Everyone here seems to be using airbrushes now, which I've never done. Well the general advice is to go hogwild and buy the best, but I don't see much wrong with going the cheap route. I mean I have a mystery Chinese brush and it works fine, you can blend your colours and spray little tiny lines and all the good things, beat the poo poo out of it if you want since it won't cost much plus you'll be taking it apart so much it'll become second nature to know the innards.
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Apr 24, 2013 22:08
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Super Slash posted:Well the general advice is to go hogwild and buy the best, but I don't see much wrong with going the cheap route. I mean I have a mystery Chinese brush and it works fine, you can blend your colours and spray little tiny lines and all the good things, beat the poo poo out of it if you want since it won't cost much plus you'll be taking it apart so much it'll become second nature to know the innards. I'm honestly surprised at the build quality of my ~£12 airbrush. It must be the result of a low-cost process, but the needle design is best described as "stubby". While that means it'll never spray a hair-thin line, the thing is practically indestructible; I'm sure I could hammer it through my desk without appreciably damaging the point. The nozzle is pretty loving solid, too, shame it's a screw-on though (my only major complaint with the brush). I bought it fully expecting it to die after a few jobs, but I've now been using it for over a year. By far my best value-for-money hobby purchase.
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Apr 24, 2013 22:39
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Just whatever you do don't buy the GW brush.
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