Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
Are you some kind of hypnotist??
Grimey Drawer
I have a 2006 mazda 3 (non Bose) and I started to notice a rattle in the passenger speaker at high volume. I took the door panel off to see if it was something loose, but everything seemed solid. So I blasted some music with the panel off and sure enough the rattle was still there. Very clearly coming from the speaker.

When I press in on the cone slightly it makes a scraping or grinding sound. Surely that can't be normal? Is this common for a blown speaker or is it something else? I've heard of water getting into the door and rusting the drivers, but I don't see any rust.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

BANME.sh posted:

I have a 2006 mazda 3 (non Bose) and I started to notice a rattle in the passenger speaker at high volume. I took the door panel off to see if it was something loose, but everything seemed solid. So I blasted some music with the panel off and sure enough the rattle was still there. Very clearly coming from the speaker.

When I press in on the cone slightly it makes a scraping or grinding sound. Surely that can't be normal? Is this common for a blown speaker or is it something else? I've heard of water getting into the door and rusting the drivers, but I don't see any rust.
Yeah that's a blown speaker. Typically part of the voice coil comes unwound from the former and that's what's scraping around in there.

Holdbrooks
Jan 1, 2005

NEAI 2015
RIDE ETERNAL SHINY AND CHROME
ONWARD TO THE HALLS OF RUSTHALLA
Talk me out of putting the 4 infinity 12's and the brahma 15 I have in the garage in to the Vic. I really should just drop in some coaxial 6x8 and a 8in subs in a console. Or just plug in the basslink I pulled from the STi.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Holdbrooks posted:

Talk me out of putting the 4 infinity 12's and the brahma 15 I have in the garage in to the Vic. I really should just drop in some coaxial 6x8 and a 8in subs in a console. Or just plug in the basslink I pulled from the STi.
Do one or the other. Mixing subs like that pretty much always sounds worse than just using all the same ones, and most amps don't like it either. Put the 15" or 4 12"s in the trunk, an 8" in the console for midbass, and the basslink in the garbage.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Xarthor posted:

So I bought a 1980 Ford Courier the other day and it came with a stock AM radio...which is currently not working. There seems to be some sort of vague hiss coming out of the speakers when I turn the unit on, but that's about it.



I'd like to be able to plug in my iPod, or at the very least get the FM band. I saw this faceplate on Crutchfield retro, which I believe will fit my truck.

I've never really tackled car audio before, what should be my next step? I'm not looking for some kind of killer sound system, just something moderately priced where I can listen to music either through my iPod or on the radio. Thanks in advance.

When the hell did you wander into AI? Will this Courier ever make an appearance when I swing by for more toner? :allears:

Kontour
May 21, 2008

Miracle Blade Baby!

I asked this question a while ago, but didn't get a reply, so I'll try again.

I'm mounting 6" spacers to this door, the hole you see in the picture is for the basket of the factory 4" which has a little plastic spacer is screws into, which in turn screws into the holes you see in the picture. With the 6" spacers, should I be screwing them in through the trim, or cutting away the particle board and vinyl and screwing directly into the sheet metal? Also with spacers should I be going MDF or plastic?

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



LloydDobler posted:

This channel might help: http://www.youtube.com/user/Enfig/videos?query=audi+tt

In one of the install videos he shows that there are some side blocks you can buy to adapt an aftermarket radio into the slot, I'm surprised that crutchfield doesn't carry them. I think the note about accessory power means it won't work with the key in position 1, but I'm not 100% on that. Also he shows that pretty much any stereo with a protruding knob or button of any kind will prevent the cover from coming down, but detaching the face (if it's detachable) will allow it to come down.

Also note that Crutchfield does carry the wiring adapter and removal tools but because it's such a cheapass stereo it doesn't include them for free. They're $15, worth every penny. Make sure you add them on regardless.

Hey I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do yet but I just want to say thank you for all the info. SA is so worth the $10.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Hello chaps. I'm buying a vehicle imported from glorious nippon. I'm very excited about the car but the deck is a double-din super garish Japanese monstrosity. Can you suggest some double-DIN decks to replace it? My needs are just to be able to plug in my iPhone, and to have a subout channel, which is pretty standard I would think by now. I will be replacing the speakers as well but not with anything that would benefit from being amplified externally from the deck so I don't need pre-amp outputs.

The vehicle is a 98 Subaru WRX STI, that's the DIN system right?

Edit: Is this a good buy for that sale price? Anyone heard anything about that deck? Thanks.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 09:27 on May 4, 2013

atmakaraka
Mar 3, 2005

When I said 'we', officer, I was referring to myself, the four young ladies, and, of course, the goat.
Hi there. I recently bought a 2007 Mercury Milan sedan with the so-called Audiophile sound system. Out of nowhere, the 6 disc changer would start skipping in the middle of tracks, and quickly escalated to saying that there was a "bad disc" no matter what disc I put in (burned, retail, rw, new, scratched etc) or what slot I put it in. I tried (without apparent success) one of those cd lens cleaners. My next step is to try and get at the fuse box and see what I can do from there, but I figured I would ask those more knowledgeable than myself first. Any tips would be appreciated.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
If the player turns on, a fuse isn't the problem.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

That sounds more like the cd player mechanism failed.

eBay has plenty of them listed (including this brand new one), though like any other newer vehicle, you'll probably need to have the dealer pair the stereo to the car.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:52 on May 8, 2013

maniacripper
May 3, 2009
STANNIS BURNS SHIREEN
HIZDAR IS THE HARPY
JON GETS STABBED TO DEATH
DANY FLIES OFF ON DROGON
Is there a generally recommended 12inch sub and amplifier combo for around 250 bucks?

My friend has a 2006 Nissan Altima with a stock sound system. He wants to put a 12 inch sub in his trunk. I was wondering if this is even possible with a stick radio, I'm guessing it doesn't have a pre-out or LPF, or maybe it does, who knows. Is this a common thing that professionals do all the time and if so how much should he be looking to spend, or would he be better off getting a whole new dash unit (I don't think he wants to do this).


Thanks.

atmakaraka
Mar 3, 2005

When I said 'we', officer, I was referring to myself, the four young ladies, and, of course, the goat.

Geirskogul posted:

If the player turns on, a fuse isn't the problem.

I was afraid of that. Glad I didn't waste any time getting to it.


some texas redneck posted:

That sounds more like the cd player mechanism failed.

eBay has plenty of them listed (including this brand new one), though like any other newer vehicle, you'll probably need to have the dealer pair the stereo to the car.


At those prices, I may as well just get a new head unit and put it in myself. Thanks to both of you for the feedback.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!).

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Geirskogul posted:

There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!).
I'm not sure what you're talking about here. Do you mean low pass filters, or maybe non-fading pre-outs? Mux probably isn't the word you were looking for.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 06:10 on May 8, 2013

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Geirskogul posted:

There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!).

I think you mean "high level inputs". Any name brand amp with high level inputs can handle that fine if you're driving a sub and not cranking the stereo to 11. Admittedly it won't sound as good as low level inputs, but it works.

atmakaraka posted:

At those prices, I may as well just get a new head unit and put it in myself. Thanks to both of you for the feedback.

You may want to check Crutchfield first - since you have the "premium" stereo, you may have some amps and such hidden in the car. Which may not play nice with an aftermarket head unit without some wiring changes or some adapters. Crutchfield will be able to tell you though.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:21 on May 8, 2013

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

Lowclock posted:

I'm not sure what you're talking about here. Do you mean low pass filters, or maybe non-fading pre-outs? Mux probably isn't the word you were looking for.

Yeah, I meant high level inputs. My bad. And I haven't had any good experiences with amps in the last five or so years, but that's just me.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Geirskogul posted:

Yeah, I meant high level inputs. My bad. And I haven't had any good experiences with amps in the last five or so years, but that's just me.
Yeah usually amps with high level inputs are kind of targeted towards people who don't want to spend the money for a deck with line level outputs, so the rest of the amp isn't that great either. The whole car audio industry has kind of gone to poo poo since the late 90's when every good or big company started getting bought out by the likes of Sound Around and DEI, and the ones that are left were forced into making cheap ultra-high-margin Chinese-sourced junk with identical products split across 3 or more different brands. With the advances in technology made in the last 20 years, we should have some relatively amazing and dirt cheap poo poo in every car, but instead they have found creative new ways to label a 200 watt amp as 2000 (CEA2006 is a loving joke), and the 4 channel I use that was made in like 2003 is still the most technologically advanced one out there. Sorry for the angry post that I'm sure I've made before, but it sucks to watch an industry I gave a poo poo about become so completely stagnant.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
You've put it more eloquently than I could have. I was going to write something like "my father was an electrician who also did amp installs but he says it has gone to poo poo recently," while trying to imply exactly what you posted, but I don't think I would have gotten the point across.


The ~2001 Polk Audio / Yamaha combo I've been running is very comparable in audio quality and features (even MP3) to current products that cost about twice what the P/Y combo cost when I originally bought it, for example.

teejayh
Feb 12, 2003
A real bastard
I have an 2013 Audi S4 and I want to add a sub in the trunk. the rest of the sound is pretty good, but it lacks real deep base. The audio system uses a MOST bus from the head unit, to the "mmi brain" then to the factory amp. From the factory amp it is normal speaker wires out to the rest of the speakers. What I would like to do is find a way to break into that MOST network, and then feed it into an amp that will let me power a bigger sub.

Looking on the internet, I came across one of these:
http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility/vehicles/16/27/13116/13342/14993


Has anyone here ever done something like this, and if so, is this the right way to go about it?

Vigo327
Dec 24, 2012
IF I CONTINUE TO WHINE ABOUT THE PROBATIONS I RECEIVE, REPORT THIS POST SO THAT I CAN BE PROBATED AGAIN
So that S4 situation got me to wondering about the relative merit of bothering to figure out what is going on pre-amp instead of just doing line level converters from the factory amp output.

My line of thinking is i dont see a problem with using line level inputs as long as that signal is worth a crap, i.e. not noisy and not going into distortion/clipping. And THAT got me to wondering what kind of resistance a high-level input is? I.e., is the high level input on an amp such a high resistance that there is not much current coming out of the amp producing the signal, and it will never be working hard?

Because, i see the typical situation where you T off of the factory rear speaker circuit to a sub amp, to be different because there is still a speaker load on that circuit and you can still crank it up to where the factory amp sounds like poo poo, and that will affect the other amp. But if there is no speaker on that circuit and the high level input on the next amp is a high resistance, i would think that signal should stay relatively clean?

Thoughts on this?

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
Is there a place with lots of information on amplifiers? I've got another car, with no radio and eight speaker positions, and I'm planning to upgrade from 1.5" tweeters in the dashboard to bigger actual speakers. I have a feeling that a normal 20W 4-channel head unit isn't quite gonna cut it once I've got everything installed and upgraded.

Also is it ever worth it using component speakers, or is that just a big pain in the rear end?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

teejayh posted:

Has anyone here ever done something like this, and if so, is this the right way to go about it?
Yeah as long as they work correctly, this is about as good as you can get. Go for it.

atomicthumbs posted:

Is there a place with lots of information on amplifiers? I've got another car, with no radio and eight speaker positions, and I'm planning to upgrade from 1.5" tweeters in the dashboard to bigger actual speakers. I have a feeling that a normal 20W 4-channel head unit isn't quite gonna cut it once I've got everything installed and upgraded.
1.5" is plenty big for tweeters. Not really any reason to go bigger. As for if it will be loud enough, well that's up to you, and a decent amp would be the way to go if you decide it's not.

atomicthumbs posted:

Also is it ever worth it using component speakers, or is that just a big pain in the rear end?
It's pretty much always worth it unless you don't care how it sounds. Being able to move and angle the tweeters in different ways helps you set up a sound stage without tons of processing, and they usually have way better crossovers and drivers than what you find in coaxials.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Lowclock posted:

It's pretty much always worth it unless you don't care how it sounds. Being able to move and angle the tweeters in different ways helps you set up a sound stage without tons of processing, and they usually have way better crossovers and drivers than what you find in coaxials.

Seconding this. I've gone component in every car I've owned since 2004 and I'll never go back. They really sound that much better.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Vigo327 posted:

So that S4 situation got me to wondering about the relative merit of bothering to figure out what is going on pre-amp instead of just doing line level converters from the factory amp output.

My line of thinking is i dont see a problem with using line level inputs as long as that signal is worth a crap, i.e. not noisy and not going into distortion/clipping. And THAT got me to wondering what kind of resistance a high-level input is? I.e., is the high level input on an amp such a high resistance that there is not much current coming out of the amp producing the signal, and it will never be working hard?

Because, i see the typical situation where you T off of the factory rear speaker circuit to a sub amp, to be different because there is still a speaker load on that circuit and you can still crank it up to where the factory amp sounds like poo poo, and that will affect the other amp. But if there is no speaker on that circuit and the high level input on the next amp is a high resistance, i would think that signal should stay relatively clean?

Thoughts on this?
Usually amps have high enough input impedance that they might as well not be there to whatever they're connected to. Nothing close to what you find on something like an opamp, but I think the lowest stated input impedance I remember seeing on a car amp is something like 15k ohms. The speaker being there shouldn't really make any audible difference in the end unless you've got the gains set wrong.

Kachunkachunk
Jun 6, 2011

teejayh posted:

I have an 2013 Audi S4 and I want to add a sub in the trunk. the rest of the sound is pretty good, but it lacks real deep base. The audio system uses a MOST bus from the head unit, to the "mmi brain" then to the factory amp. From the factory amp it is normal speaker wires out to the rest of the speakers. What I would like to do is find a way to break into that MOST network, and then feed it into an amp that will let me power a bigger sub.

Looking on the internet, I came across one of these:
http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility/vehicles/16/27/13116/13342/14993


Has anyone here ever done something like this, and if so, is this the right way to go about it?
I'll be in the same situation within a year or two (2012+ S4 or maybe a 2013+ S5). Did you option yourself a B&O sound system? I imagine I'd still have to fit a sub in the trunk with one, but I was curious what you thought.

Edit: I also considered under-seat low-profile subs, but they're very expensive. Probably more practical than trunk subs/boxes, though, and it could sound a bit nicer if it's all in the cabin and not having to move through a seat. Maybe.

Holdbrooks
Jan 1, 2005

NEAI 2015
RIDE ETERNAL SHINY AND CHROME
ONWARD TO THE HALLS OF RUSTHALLA
I finishe up the install of the appradio 2 and really like it so far. But the stock paper speaker have absolutly no low end, I order some morel Maximo 6.5in comps for the front and coax for the rear. I decided that having a huge trunk was awesome and decided to leave the brahma in the garage and ordered a pair of the new sundown audio sd-2 8in subs he I want to build into a down firing console ther the police radios were. They only need .25 ft^3 each so that should work out.

Anyone have any experience with the newer hifonics amps? I went ahead and ordered their big 5-ch amp since it was like $225. I hope it's decent, I read the they are ok, but I wasn't going to buy another JL HD900/5 for this car since it costs more that the the entire system budget.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Lowclock posted:

1.5" is plenty big for tweeters. Not really any reason to go bigger. As for if it will be loud enough, well that's up to you, and a decent amp would be the way to go if you decide it's not.

It's pretty much always worth it unless you don't care how it sounds. Being able to move and angle the tweeters in different ways helps you set up a sound stage without tons of processing, and they usually have way better crossovers and drivers than what you find in coaxials.

LloydDobler posted:

Seconding this. I've gone component in every car I've owned since 2004 and I'll never go back. They really sound that much better.

Thanks! I was originally planning to put small coaxial speakers in the dash holes to replace the tweeters, but after doing more research (and finding out that component stuff comes in sets, so I don't have to buy separate woofers and stuff :v:) I think I'm gonna go with a front component system.

Two more questions:
  • The car came wired for a subwoofer in the trunk, but it didn't come with the car. Is it safe to cut the heavy-gauge wire and crimp in a power cable to an amp? It would be running in parallel with anything I decide to install in the trunk later (inverter, ham radio transciever, powered subwoofer, etc). Could I do the same with the remote amp control wire? If it helps, the wiring kit that whoever used was apparently one of these, with 35mm2 cables and a 150-amp fuse.
  • Would putting coaxial stuff in the rear deck degrade the total sound I'm getting with a component front speaker setup? If so, what's the best way to deal with the rear speaker setup? The doors will hold 5.25" drivers, and the deck will hold 6x9" drivers.

Thanks a ton, y'all!

atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:36 on May 11, 2013

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

atomicthumbs posted:

Two more questions:
[list][*]The car came wired for a subwoofer in the trunk, but it didn't come with the car. Is it safe to cut the heavy-gauge wire and crimp in a power cable to an amp? It would be running in parallel with anything I decide to install in the trunk later (inverter, ham radio transciever, powered subwoofer, etc). Could I do the same with the remote amp control wire?
Sure, just make sure it is an appropriate size for the amount of power you need, has a fuse holder as close to the battery as possible, and that it isn't damaged or run anywhere stupid like through a doorjamb, hood, or draped over a brake pedal or steering column. Same with the remote wire, although you don't really need a fuse holder for that (and it probably wouldn't do you any good anyways) Disconnect or otherwise remove power from them when you're making new connections or working on them and you should be good. You shouldn't really have to crimp anything for an amp since they pretty much all use screw terminals, but you might for the other stuff.

quote:

Would putting coaxial stuff in the rear deck degrade the total sound I'm getting with a component front speaker setup? If so, what's the best way to deal with the rear speaker setup? The doors will hold 5.25" drivers, and the deck will hold 6x9" drivers.
The back isn't usually that important, but it can be helpful to have something back there to add a little more volume and pull the sound stage up and back a little bit. 6x9 components are also pretty rare, so I'd say some coaxials back there would be a good idea.

jonathan
Jul 3, 2005

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
Well my factory mygig deck us giving up the ghost. Its rebooting on its own and freezing etc. Can find the music on the hard drive 1/2 the time.

With a Jeep Unlimited (infinity sound system) the head unit controls an 8 channel amp via canbus. The volume, fade etc are all handled at the amp.

The speakers are 2 tweeters in pods on the dash with discreet channels. 2 in dash woofers 6.5", and 2 6.5" in a sound bar above the rear seats.

Also an 8" sealed sub that uses that last 2 channels of the amp.

Since this uses the can bus, is it possible for me to dump the OEM head unit, amp etc, and just use a double DIN head unit ? I'd likely replace the OEM speakers. Do I need an amp for these or do the double din units put out enough wattage ? I find distortion begins to set in around 95 db. With the top off it sounds like poo poo.

I don't really have a budget. If you wanted to do a nice stereo that sounds good with no top on, what would you do ?

Do most people run tweeters on a discreet channel ? Also, is there anything out there that can EQ the system top on and top off ?

When I remove the top the factory system cuts out the low end to allow more headroom.

In my theater I use Audyssey XT32 calibration. It works really well getting the subs to sound flat. I know they did some car audio stuff for a bit.

My listening habits are pretty varied. 60% metal/rock, 20% hip hop, 20% electronic and jazz.

I'm going to build my own enclosure for the subwoofer. Mark from Mach 5 audio built me custom 18's for my theater which does 115db at 10hz in a 3000 ft^3 room. I think I'll go back to him for some long excursion 15's for the jeep.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Does anyone have an inside line on Alpine? I noticed they're finally updating their non-touchscreen single DIN headunits to have variable color. I'm trying to find out if they're bringing out a double DIN that does the same. Last year's is still around http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500W235BT/Alpine-CDE-W235BT.html and only does blue in the states (international gets variable color). Piddling little poo poo like this actually matters to me; I like my cluster to match my center stack.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

jonathan posted:

Since this uses the can bus, is it possible for me to dump the OEM head unit, amp etc, and just use a double DIN head unit ? I'd likely replace the OEM speakers. Do I need an amp for these or do the double din units put out enough wattage ? I find distortion begins to set in around 95 db. With the top off it sounds like poo poo.

I don't really have a budget. If you wanted to do a nice stereo that sounds good with no top on, what would you do ?

Do most people run tweeters on a discreet channel ? Also, is there anything out there that can EQ the system top on and top off ?

When I remove the top the factory system cuts out the low end to allow more headroom.

In my theater I use Audyssey XT32 calibration. It works really well getting the subs to sound flat. I know they did some car audio stuff for a bit.

My listening habits are pretty varied. 60% metal/rock, 20% hip hop, 20% electronic and jazz.

I'm going to build my own enclosure for the subwoofer. Mark from Mach 5 audio built me custom 18's for my theater which does 115db at 10hz in a 3000 ft^3 room. I think I'll go back to him for some long excursion 15's for the jeep.
In order of the question marks.

Yes, definitely. You might lose your door bonger thing unless you get a little harness to pipe it back in there (it's been a while since I've done a new Jeep, not sure about yours) but it should work fine.

You don't NEED an amp, but it would certainly help. More power, less distortion, and high pass filters are all wonderful things.

2 sets of components on a 4 channel amp, and a sub on a mono class D amp. I usually find that one bigger sub works better than 2 smaller ones.

No. Usually the mid and high run off the same channel with the audio split by a crossover. There are some advantages and disadvantages to doing it that way, but unless you want to spend a lot more money or already have a bunch of gear laying around, it's not really worth it most of the time IMO.

Yes, your deck. I really depends on what sounds good to you, so you might be able to get away with just tweaking the treble and bass on your deck, or you may have to get some crazy 30 channel EQ to get it to sound the way you like. It's hard to say.

I don't really know what to say about those subs, other than that I recognize just about every part as an off the shelf piece from something else, and I got a good chuckle about a company named after Speed Racer's car, with a sub named after dicks, carbon fiber, and "Kustom Koils".

Molten Llama
Sep 20, 2006

Lowclock posted:

You might lose your door bonger thing unless you get a little harness to pipe it back in there (it's been a while since I've done a new Jeep, not sure about yours) but it should work fine.

All good on that front; Chrysler hasn't gone the way of GM so far. A piezo is integrated into the instrument cluster to provide beeps and bloops.

jonathan
Jul 3, 2005

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Lowclock posted:

In order of the question marks.

Yes, definitely. You might lose your door bonger thing unless you get a little harness to pipe it back in there (it's been a while since I've done a new Jeep, not sure about yours) but it should work fine.

You don't NEED an amp, but it would certainly help. More power, less distortion, and high pass filters are all wonderful things.

2 sets of components on a 4 channel amp, and a sub on a mono class D amp. I usually find that one bigger sub works better than 2 smaller ones.

No. Usually the mid and high run off the same channel with the audio split by a crossover. There are some advantages and disadvantages to doing it that way, but unless you want to spend a lot more money or already have a bunch of gear laying around, it's not really worth it most of the time IMO.

Yes, your deck. I really depends on what sounds good to you, so you might be able to get away with just tweaking the treble and bass on your deck, or you may have to get some crazy 30 channel EQ to get it to sound the way you like. It's hard to say.

I don't really know what to say about those subs, other than that I recognize just about every part as an off the shelf piece from something else, and I got a good chuckle about a company named after Speed Racer's car, with a sub named after dicks, carbon fiber, and "Kustom Koils".

Thanks for the answers. I'm going to start planning out a setup. Those mach 5 drivers are very well regarded in the home theater community. Also really good customer service. I wanted him to get the drivers to me before I left the country, so he quoted me a price + shipping. He only charged me for the product. When they arrived, I mentioned that I never got charged shipping.

"Oh I sent them express post. Wanted to get them to you before you left. I ate the cost of shipping. Enjoy your drivers."

For the tweeters, I would assume they would use some sort of passive crossover ? Do they get wired in parallel with the woofer with a resistor inline to act as a high pass filter ? I guess this would be a "component" speaker...

jonathan
Jul 3, 2005

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
Let's say I cross the woofers and tweeters at 80hz and let everything under that go to the subs, is there high sensitivity components I should be looking for to get better detail and SPL ?

If someone could suggest component woofers/tweeters and an appropriate amp it would be appreciated.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

jonathan posted:

For the tweeters, I would assume they would use some sort of passive crossover ? Do they get wired in parallel with the woofer with a resistor inline to act as a high pass filter ? I guess this would be a "component" speaker...
Component sets usually include a pair of woofers, a pair of tweeters, and a pair of crossovers. You wire each channel from the amp into each of the crossovers, and then the woofer and tweeter both connect to each crossover. So you basically have 2 wires going into each crossover (+ and -) and then 4 wires coming out for each pair of drivers (+ and - for the tweeter, and + and - for the woofer). Coaxials just have the tweeter stuck right on top of the woofer with a lovely little tiny 1 tap crossover hidden in there (if you're lucky) so you only connect the + and - from the amp right up to the speaker.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

jonathan posted:

Let's say I cross the woofers and tweeters at 80hz and let everything under that go to the subs, is there high sensitivity components I should be looking for to get better detail and SPL ?
Not really. Sensitivity is not really a thing to consider when buying speakers because every company rates them differently and it doesn't have any direct correlation to how loud a speaker can get or how good it sounds.

jonathan
Jul 3, 2005

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN
Last question for the day:

Components upfront, and matching coaxials in the rear overhead, or should I just do woofers in the rear overhead ?

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

jonathan posted:

Last question for the day:

Components upfront, and matching coaxials in the rear overhead, or should I just do woofers in the rear overhead ?
Might as well just do coaxials in the rear. They'll probably be cheaper and easier to find than just woofers, and you won't have to worry about bandpassing them (e:still want to highpass them like you said earlier, just to be clear).

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 10:49 on May 12, 2013

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
So I just bought a crappy 1993 Mazda 929 with no stereo. It has a double DIN opening and I really just need the best bang for my buck I can get since it's a beater. What's my best option? Theres's a Kenwood deck on Crutchfield for under $90 that looks like it will get the job done but I'm really out of the car audio scene these days.

Rhyno fucked around with this message at 18:08 on May 12, 2013

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply