|
I have a 2006 mazda 3 (non Bose) and I started to notice a rattle in the passenger speaker at high volume. I took the door panel off to see if it was something loose, but everything seemed solid. So I blasted some music with the panel off and sure enough the rattle was still there. Very clearly coming from the speaker. When I press in on the cone slightly it makes a scraping or grinding sound. Surely that can't be normal? Is this common for a blown speaker or is it something else? I've heard of water getting into the door and rusting the drivers, but I don't see any rust.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2013 05:05 |
|
|
# ? Mar 29, 2024 02:34 |
|
BANME.sh posted:I have a 2006 mazda 3 (non Bose) and I started to notice a rattle in the passenger speaker at high volume. I took the door panel off to see if it was something loose, but everything seemed solid. So I blasted some music with the panel off and sure enough the rattle was still there. Very clearly coming from the speaker.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2013 05:15 |
|
Talk me out of putting the 4 infinity 12's and the brahma 15 I have in the garage in to the Vic. I really should just drop in some coaxial 6x8 and a 8in subs in a console. Or just plug in the basslink I pulled from the STi.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2013 22:13 |
|
Holdbrooks posted:Talk me out of putting the 4 infinity 12's and the brahma 15 I have in the garage in to the Vic. I really should just drop in some coaxial 6x8 and a 8in subs in a console. Or just plug in the basslink I pulled from the STi.
|
# ? Apr 28, 2013 02:52 |
|
Xarthor posted:So I bought a 1980 Ford Courier the other day and it came with a stock AM radio...which is currently not working. There seems to be some sort of vague hiss coming out of the speakers when I turn the unit on, but that's about it. When the hell did you wander into AI? Will this Courier ever make an appearance when I swing by for more toner?
|
# ? Apr 28, 2013 10:01 |
|
I asked this question a while ago, but didn't get a reply, so I'll try again. I'm mounting 6" spacers to this door, the hole you see in the picture is for the basket of the factory 4" which has a little plastic spacer is screws into, which in turn screws into the holes you see in the picture. With the 6" spacers, should I be screwing them in through the trim, or cutting away the particle board and vinyl and screwing directly into the sheet metal? Also with spacers should I be going MDF or plastic?
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 14:28 |
|
LloydDobler posted:This channel might help: http://www.youtube.com/user/Enfig/videos?query=audi+tt Hey I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do yet but I just want to say thank you for all the info. SA is so worth the $10.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2013 14:46 |
|
Hello chaps. I'm buying a vehicle imported from glorious nippon. I'm very excited about the car but the deck is a double-din super garish Japanese monstrosity. Can you suggest some double-DIN decks to replace it? My needs are just to be able to plug in my iPhone, and to have a subout channel, which is pretty standard I would think by now. I will be replacing the speakers as well but not with anything that would benefit from being amplified externally from the deck so I don't need pre-amp outputs. The vehicle is a 98 Subaru WRX STI, that's the DIN system right? Edit: Is this a good buy for that sale price? Anyone heard anything about that deck? Thanks. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 09:27 on May 4, 2013 |
# ? May 1, 2013 18:46 |
|
Hi there. I recently bought a 2007 Mercury Milan sedan with the so-called Audiophile sound system. Out of nowhere, the 6 disc changer would start skipping in the middle of tracks, and quickly escalated to saying that there was a "bad disc" no matter what disc I put in (burned, retail, rw, new, scratched etc) or what slot I put it in. I tried (without apparent success) one of those cd lens cleaners. My next step is to try and get at the fuse box and see what I can do from there, but I figured I would ask those more knowledgeable than myself first. Any tips would be appreciated.
|
# ? May 7, 2013 21:25 |
|
If the player turns on, a fuse isn't the problem.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 03:33 |
|
That sounds more like the cd player mechanism failed. eBay has plenty of them listed (including this brand new one), though like any other newer vehicle, you'll probably need to have the dealer pair the stereo to the car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:52 on May 8, 2013 |
# ? May 8, 2013 03:49 |
|
Is there a generally recommended 12inch sub and amplifier combo for around 250 bucks? My friend has a 2006 Nissan Altima with a stock sound system. He wants to put a 12 inch sub in his trunk. I was wondering if this is even possible with a stick radio, I'm guessing it doesn't have a pre-out or LPF, or maybe it does, who knows. Is this a common thing that professionals do all the time and if so how much should he be looking to spend, or would he be better off getting a whole new dash unit (I don't think he wants to do this). Thanks.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 05:28 |
|
Geirskogul posted:If the player turns on, a fuse isn't the problem. I was afraid of that. Glad I didn't waste any time getting to it. some texas redneck posted:That sounds more like the cd player mechanism failed. At those prices, I may as well just get a new head unit and put it in myself. Thanks to both of you for the feedback.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 05:36 |
|
There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!).
|
# ? May 8, 2013 05:49 |
|
Geirskogul posted:There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!). Lowclock fucked around with this message at 06:10 on May 8, 2013 |
# ? May 8, 2013 06:08 |
|
Geirskogul posted:There are amps that can take the stereo mix from a stock headunit and mux out bass for the sub for that, but it never works as well as it should (the feature is built into good headunits; why can't it be built into good amps?!). I think you mean "high level inputs". Any name brand amp with high level inputs can handle that fine if you're driving a sub and not cranking the stereo to 11. Admittedly it won't sound as good as low level inputs, but it works. atmakaraka posted:At those prices, I may as well just get a new head unit and put it in myself. Thanks to both of you for the feedback. You may want to check Crutchfield first - since you have the "premium" stereo, you may have some amps and such hidden in the car. Which may not play nice with an aftermarket head unit without some wiring changes or some adapters. Crutchfield will be able to tell you though. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:21 on May 8, 2013 |
# ? May 8, 2013 06:16 |
|
Lowclock posted:I'm not sure what you're talking about here. Do you mean low pass filters, or maybe non-fading pre-outs? Mux probably isn't the word you were looking for. Yeah, I meant high level inputs. My bad. And I haven't had any good experiences with amps in the last five or so years, but that's just me.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 06:22 |
|
Geirskogul posted:Yeah, I meant high level inputs. My bad. And I haven't had any good experiences with amps in the last five or so years, but that's just me.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 06:45 |
|
You've put it more eloquently than I could have. I was going to write something like "my father was an electrician who also did amp installs but he says it has gone to poo poo recently," while trying to imply exactly what you posted, but I don't think I would have gotten the point across. The ~2001 Polk Audio / Yamaha combo I've been running is very comparable in audio quality and features (even MP3) to current products that cost about twice what the P/Y combo cost when I originally bought it, for example.
|
# ? May 8, 2013 07:16 |
|
I have an 2013 Audi S4 and I want to add a sub in the trunk. the rest of the sound is pretty good, but it lacks real deep base. The audio system uses a MOST bus from the head unit, to the "mmi brain" then to the factory amp. From the factory amp it is normal speaker wires out to the rest of the speakers. What I would like to do is find a way to break into that MOST network, and then feed it into an amp that will let me power a bigger sub. Looking on the internet, I came across one of these: http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility/vehicles/16/27/13116/13342/14993 Has anyone here ever done something like this, and if so, is this the right way to go about it?
|
# ? May 10, 2013 16:04 |
|
So that S4 situation got me to wondering about the relative merit of bothering to figure out what is going on pre-amp instead of just doing line level converters from the factory amp output. My line of thinking is i dont see a problem with using line level inputs as long as that signal is worth a crap, i.e. not noisy and not going into distortion/clipping. And THAT got me to wondering what kind of resistance a high-level input is? I.e., is the high level input on an amp such a high resistance that there is not much current coming out of the amp producing the signal, and it will never be working hard? Because, i see the typical situation where you T off of the factory rear speaker circuit to a sub amp, to be different because there is still a speaker load on that circuit and you can still crank it up to where the factory amp sounds like poo poo, and that will affect the other amp. But if there is no speaker on that circuit and the high level input on the next amp is a high resistance, i would think that signal should stay relatively clean? Thoughts on this?
|
# ? May 10, 2013 23:40 |
|
Is there a place with lots of information on amplifiers? I've got another car, with no radio and eight speaker positions, and I'm planning to upgrade from 1.5" tweeters in the dashboard to bigger actual speakers. I have a feeling that a normal 20W 4-channel head unit isn't quite gonna cut it once I've got everything installed and upgraded. Also is it ever worth it using component speakers, or is that just a big pain in the rear end?
|
# ? May 11, 2013 02:34 |
|
teejayh posted:Has anyone here ever done something like this, and if so, is this the right way to go about it? atomicthumbs posted:Is there a place with lots of information on amplifiers? I've got another car, with no radio and eight speaker positions, and I'm planning to upgrade from 1.5" tweeters in the dashboard to bigger actual speakers. I have a feeling that a normal 20W 4-channel head unit isn't quite gonna cut it once I've got everything installed and upgraded. atomicthumbs posted:Also is it ever worth it using component speakers, or is that just a big pain in the rear end?
|
# ? May 11, 2013 04:22 |
|
Lowclock posted:It's pretty much always worth it unless you don't care how it sounds. Being able to move and angle the tweeters in different ways helps you set up a sound stage without tons of processing, and they usually have way better crossovers and drivers than what you find in coaxials. Seconding this. I've gone component in every car I've owned since 2004 and I'll never go back. They really sound that much better.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 04:25 |
|
Vigo327 posted:So that S4 situation got me to wondering about the relative merit of bothering to figure out what is going on pre-amp instead of just doing line level converters from the factory amp output.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 04:30 |
|
teejayh posted:I have an 2013 Audi S4 and I want to add a sub in the trunk. the rest of the sound is pretty good, but it lacks real deep base. The audio system uses a MOST bus from the head unit, to the "mmi brain" then to the factory amp. From the factory amp it is normal speaker wires out to the rest of the speakers. What I would like to do is find a way to break into that MOST network, and then feed it into an amp that will let me power a bigger sub. Edit: I also considered under-seat low-profile subs, but they're very expensive. Probably more practical than trunk subs/boxes, though, and it could sound a bit nicer if it's all in the cabin and not having to move through a seat. Maybe.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 04:41 |
|
I finishe up the install of the appradio 2 and really like it so far. But the stock paper speaker have absolutly no low end, I order some morel Maximo 6.5in comps for the front and coax for the rear. I decided that having a huge trunk was awesome and decided to leave the brahma in the garage and ordered a pair of the new sundown audio sd-2 8in subs he I want to build into a down firing console ther the police radios were. They only need .25 ft^3 each so that should work out. Anyone have any experience with the newer hifonics amps? I went ahead and ordered their big 5-ch amp since it was like $225. I hope it's decent, I read the they are ok, but I wasn't going to buy another JL HD900/5 for this car since it costs more that the the entire system budget.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 06:45 |
|
Lowclock posted:1.5" is plenty big for tweeters. Not really any reason to go bigger. As for if it will be loud enough, well that's up to you, and a decent amp would be the way to go if you decide it's not. LloydDobler posted:Seconding this. I've gone component in every car I've owned since 2004 and I'll never go back. They really sound that much better. Thanks! I was originally planning to put small coaxial speakers in the dash holes to replace the tweeters, but after doing more research (and finding out that component stuff comes in sets, so I don't have to buy separate woofers and stuff ) I think I'm gonna go with a front component system. Two more questions:
Thanks a ton, y'all! atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 07:36 on May 11, 2013 |
# ? May 11, 2013 07:02 |
|
atomicthumbs posted:Two more questions: quote:Would putting coaxial stuff in the rear deck degrade the total sound I'm getting with a component front speaker setup? If so, what's the best way to deal with the rear speaker setup? The doors will hold 5.25" drivers, and the deck will hold 6x9" drivers.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 07:48 |
|
Well my factory mygig deck us giving up the ghost. Its rebooting on its own and freezing etc. Can find the music on the hard drive 1/2 the time. With a Jeep Unlimited (infinity sound system) the head unit controls an 8 channel amp via canbus. The volume, fade etc are all handled at the amp. The speakers are 2 tweeters in pods on the dash with discreet channels. 2 in dash woofers 6.5", and 2 6.5" in a sound bar above the rear seats. Also an 8" sealed sub that uses that last 2 channels of the amp. Since this uses the can bus, is it possible for me to dump the OEM head unit, amp etc, and just use a double DIN head unit ? I'd likely replace the OEM speakers. Do I need an amp for these or do the double din units put out enough wattage ? I find distortion begins to set in around 95 db. With the top off it sounds like poo poo. I don't really have a budget. If you wanted to do a nice stereo that sounds good with no top on, what would you do ? Do most people run tweeters on a discreet channel ? Also, is there anything out there that can EQ the system top on and top off ? When I remove the top the factory system cuts out the low end to allow more headroom. In my theater I use Audyssey XT32 calibration. It works really well getting the subs to sound flat. I know they did some car audio stuff for a bit. My listening habits are pretty varied. 60% metal/rock, 20% hip hop, 20% electronic and jazz. I'm going to build my own enclosure for the subwoofer. Mark from Mach 5 audio built me custom 18's for my theater which does 115db at 10hz in a 3000 ft^3 room. I think I'll go back to him for some long excursion 15's for the jeep.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 17:45 |
|
Does anyone have an inside line on Alpine? I noticed they're finally updating their non-touchscreen single DIN headunits to have variable color. I'm trying to find out if they're bringing out a double DIN that does the same. Last year's is still around http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500W235BT/Alpine-CDE-W235BT.html and only does blue in the states (international gets variable color). Piddling little poo poo like this actually matters to me; I like my cluster to match my center stack.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 21:01 |
|
jonathan posted:Since this uses the can bus, is it possible for me to dump the OEM head unit, amp etc, and just use a double DIN head unit ? I'd likely replace the OEM speakers. Do I need an amp for these or do the double din units put out enough wattage ? I find distortion begins to set in around 95 db. With the top off it sounds like poo poo. Yes, definitely. You might lose your door bonger thing unless you get a little harness to pipe it back in there (it's been a while since I've done a new Jeep, not sure about yours) but it should work fine. You don't NEED an amp, but it would certainly help. More power, less distortion, and high pass filters are all wonderful things. 2 sets of components on a 4 channel amp, and a sub on a mono class D amp. I usually find that one bigger sub works better than 2 smaller ones. No. Usually the mid and high run off the same channel with the audio split by a crossover. There are some advantages and disadvantages to doing it that way, but unless you want to spend a lot more money or already have a bunch of gear laying around, it's not really worth it most of the time IMO. Yes, your deck. I really depends on what sounds good to you, so you might be able to get away with just tweaking the treble and bass on your deck, or you may have to get some crazy 30 channel EQ to get it to sound the way you like. It's hard to say. I don't really know what to say about those subs, other than that I recognize just about every part as an off the shelf piece from something else, and I got a good chuckle about a company named after Speed Racer's car, with a sub named after dicks, carbon fiber, and "Kustom Koils".
|
# ? May 11, 2013 21:59 |
|
Lowclock posted:You might lose your door bonger thing unless you get a little harness to pipe it back in there (it's been a while since I've done a new Jeep, not sure about yours) but it should work fine. All good on that front; Chrysler hasn't gone the way of GM so far. A piezo is integrated into the instrument cluster to provide beeps and bloops.
|
# ? May 11, 2013 22:09 |
|
Lowclock posted:In order of the question marks. Thanks for the answers. I'm going to start planning out a setup. Those mach 5 drivers are very well regarded in the home theater community. Also really good customer service. I wanted him to get the drivers to me before I left the country, so he quoted me a price + shipping. He only charged me for the product. When they arrived, I mentioned that I never got charged shipping. "Oh I sent them express post. Wanted to get them to you before you left. I ate the cost of shipping. Enjoy your drivers." For the tweeters, I would assume they would use some sort of passive crossover ? Do they get wired in parallel with the woofer with a resistor inline to act as a high pass filter ? I guess this would be a "component" speaker...
|
# ? May 12, 2013 00:22 |
|
Let's say I cross the woofers and tweeters at 80hz and let everything under that go to the subs, is there high sensitivity components I should be looking for to get better detail and SPL ? If someone could suggest component woofers/tweeters and an appropriate amp it would be appreciated.
|
# ? May 12, 2013 00:25 |
|
jonathan posted:For the tweeters, I would assume they would use some sort of passive crossover ? Do they get wired in parallel with the woofer with a resistor inline to act as a high pass filter ? I guess this would be a "component" speaker...
|
# ? May 12, 2013 00:41 |
|
jonathan posted:Let's say I cross the woofers and tweeters at 80hz and let everything under that go to the subs, is there high sensitivity components I should be looking for to get better detail and SPL ?
|
# ? May 12, 2013 00:48 |
|
Last question for the day: Components upfront, and matching coaxials in the rear overhead, or should I just do woofers in the rear overhead ?
|
# ? May 12, 2013 01:27 |
|
jonathan posted:Last question for the day: Lowclock fucked around with this message at 10:49 on May 12, 2013 |
# ? May 12, 2013 03:05 |
|
|
# ? Mar 29, 2024 02:34 |
|
So I just bought a crappy 1993 Mazda 929 with no stereo. It has a double DIN opening and I really just need the best bang for my buck I can get since it's a beater. What's my best option? Theres's a Kenwood deck on Crutchfield for under $90 that looks like it will get the job done but I'm really out of the car audio scene these days.
Rhyno fucked around with this message at 18:08 on May 12, 2013 |
# ? May 12, 2013 17:59 |