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It got backed into while street parked. By a lady driving a ford flex. Who drove by my car before reversing into it. Which had a backup camera.   Bumper needs at least a respray if not replace, and I suspect the mounts are hosed because the bumper is nowhere near aligned correctly. Insurance tomorrow, as the car was pushed back about 2', so who knows what else is going on. Mechanically it felt fine on the drive home though... 
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May 7, 2013 03:21
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 12:30 |
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Crustashio posted:Put 12mm spacers in the front to get rid of the retarded gap with my new suspension. That's max positive camber too. Please tell me you installed extended wheel bolts. I just had a buddy lose a wheel on his Car because he didn't use the extended lugs with a 15mm spacer. Thousands and thousands of dollars worth of damage.
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May 7, 2013 03:51
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bolts?
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May 7, 2013 04:03
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Crustashio posted:bolts? Colour me surprised, I thought BMW's had lug bolts like VW.
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May 7, 2013 04:05
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GTi_guy posted:Colour me surprised, I thought BMW's had lug bolts like VW. Stock they have bolts (german thing?), I put wheel studs on to make tire swapping for autoX/track days far less annoying. No more holding the wheel up while I try to thread one stupid bolt, and no trying to line up the holes in the hub/spacer/wheel.
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May 7, 2013 04:09
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GTi_guy posted:Colour me surprised, I thought BMW's had lug bolts like VW. E: Dangit.
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May 7, 2013 04:14
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Wheel studs are the best mod any weekend racer can do to their BMW/VW, bar none.
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May 7, 2013 04:41
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I bought some ethylene glycol coolant for the Fairlane, and a rectangular trailer wiring connector for the Niva. gently caress the crappy round one it has. It's another timebomb.
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May 7, 2013 04:45
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Lowclock posted:The older ones do, but some people replace them with studs when they need longer bolts or something. I think the bolts look nicer on wheels with exposed lugs, and my wheels hang by themselves on the hubs just fine, but I guess it's mostly personal preference. That's probably because you have low offset wheels so the center of mass is close to the hub face. On anything with high offset wheels (every 3 series) you need to constantly counteract the tipping moment while starting the bolts. With the studs the wheels still tip but it doesn't fall off so you can start the nuts without touching the wheel. The first time I used them I vowed never to go back to bolts.
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May 7, 2013 13:26
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Or, you have wheels that fit so snugly over the hub, that you can just hang them on there and they stay put while you fiddle with the bolts 
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May 7, 2013 16:11
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KozmoNaut posted:Or, you have wheels that fit so snugly over the hub, that you can just hang them on there and they stay put while you fiddle with the bolts In my experience this only happens due to rust. Best implementation of bolts hands down goes to Volvo; they've got a small stud sticking out of the hub between the bolt holes, with a corresponding set of holes on the rim. The stud and the hub together let the wheel hang just like a studded hub, so you can thread the bolts in easily. Best part is they're 19mm instead of 17mm, so I can use the numerous 19/21 flip sockets instead of hunting around the shop for a 17mm socket.
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May 7, 2013 22:36
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Fucknag posted:Best implementation of bolts hands down goes to Volvo; they've got a small stud sticking out of the hub between the bolt holes, with a corresponding set of holes on the rim. The stud and the hub together let the wheel hang just like a studded hub, so you can thread the bolts in easily. Best part is they're 19mm instead of 17mm, so I can use the numerous 19/21 flip sockets instead of hunting around the shop for a 17mm socket. This might be a really dumb question, but how does this work with non-Volvo wheels?
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May 7, 2013 22:57
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Changed the oil in the S2k for the first time I unplugged some connector in the way of the filter to get a better grip on it and forgot to plug it back in, so I got a CEL when I started the car again and scratched my head for a second before I remembered about it 
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May 8, 2013 01:37
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Blew money on some kosei K1s + used 255/40/17 NT01s. Still not sure if they'll fit on my M3. Either way it was only $100 more than getting new K1s from tirerack to my door.
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May 8, 2013 03:35
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I had some new tires installed on my V70XC. I was experiencing some shaking and vibration through the steering wheel that I figured had to be due to failing suspension components, but it all went away after the tires were on and the car was aligned. I'm glad that I don't have to spend a bunch of money on that stuff, but I feel like an idiot for not getting them replaced sooner-they were getting pretty badly worn. 
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May 8, 2013 03:56
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Fucknag posted:In my experience this only happens due to rust. Or appropriately-sized centering rings. My Fiat was the same was as you describe Volvos. Two small studs corresponding to holes on the wheels between the bolt holes. Not that manually holding up a set of 155/80R13's on steel wheels was that hard, though 
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May 8, 2013 08:23
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I put some hotter plugs in the Niva. Debating my choice of spark gap though. Started wiring the driving lights. Both lights seem to work which is good. They are old K-Mart ones I got secondhand which have been enjoying their convalescence in the shed. Put more knockoff JB Weld on the rust hole on the radiator cap I missed. I'll be glad when the one I ordered arrives. That's about it I think.
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May 8, 2013 10:58
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Pulled my head off. Gasket was in good shape. Some shots of the combustion chambers, 1-4 descending. I particularly don't like cylinder 1, what's with all the carbon on the intake valves?     Looks like just oil from when I had the motor upside down.     Also, in a severe moment of retardation I initially went to rest the head upside down for the pictures... and proceeded to dump half my lifter buckets in a pile on the cardboard sheet.  Looks like I get to gently caress around with valve lash adjustments when it's time to go back together.
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May 8, 2013 17:13
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Nodoze posted:Changed the oil in the S2k for the first time If you want to avoid doing that just get a BBQ glove (the kind that are insulated and go up to your elbow), fold a piece of course-grit sand paper in half so that both sides have grit, then twist off the filter using your hand. You won't catch yourself on the hot poo poo down there and can get good traction with the sand paper. You also don't tear your arm up on that stupid plug. I've gotten my oil changes down to under 10 minutes including jacking the car up. These are pretty much what I use: http://paulboz.com/19
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May 8, 2013 17:45
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Fucknag posted:Pulled my head off. Ow dude, that must've hurt.
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May 8, 2013 19:30
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Replaced a diesel injector in my Peugeot. I've been putting it off for months and was expecting it to be a catastrophic PITA, I'd read horror stories of people with injectors galvanised into the heads and having to rent or buy special pullers to get the loving things out. Because I could sorta-kinda limp the thing along to job interviews and such I put it off, but now the nice weather's here and I have a job lined up I gave it a shot. Done in 30 minutes, from opening the bonnet to closing it again. The injector practically fell out, the biggest difficulty was getting a spanner onto the pipe unions. Cue  faces all around, I thing changing the oil on my MX5 was more difficult. Only hitch is the new fuel pipe I ordered months ago doesn't bloody fit, so tomorrow I'll have to bike down to my local dealership and try to get the right part number.So nice having a car less than 12 years old that doesn't fight you every step of the way. 
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May 8, 2013 20:30
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jammyozzy posted:Replaced a diesel injector in my Peugeot. I've been putting it off for months and was expecting it to be a catastrophic PITA, I'd read horror stories of people with injectors galvanised into the heads and having to rent or buy special pullers to get the loving things out. Because I could sorta-kinda limp the thing along to job interviews and such I put it off, but now the nice weather's here and I have a job lined up I gave it a shot. It's nice when a job you read on the internet is supposedly a nightmare and when you do it, it's cake. Blend door actuator on a Chrysler LH Car was mine...read horror story after horror story, did it in like 90 minutes, WITH one arm in a sling from having a metal rod and pins screwed to my broken collar bone a month earlier.
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May 8, 2013 21:05
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Paul Boz_ posted:If you want to avoid doing that just get a BBQ glove (the kind that are insulated and go up to your elbow), fold a piece of course-grit sand paper in half so that both sides have grit, then twist off the filter using your hand. You won't catch yourself on the hot poo poo down there and can get good traction with the sand paper. You also don't tear your arm up on that stupid plug. I've gotten my oil changes down to under 10 minutes including jacking the car up. Hm, nifty. I have the oil filter plyer things but I kind of hate them so maybe I'll try that next time
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May 9, 2013 04:02
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Got the new U-Joints in, they didn't come with a zerk though, so that's weird. One of them came with a plug, the other nothing. Then I put the new wheel cylinders in the backing plates, and ordered my new set of bearings and races now that I have the part numbers. Once I get some zerks I can set the majority of the axle back together and show actual progress. Unfortunately, the master cylinder has some serious crud buildup on the bottom of the cylinder, I'm hoping I can clean it out but I don't have a wire brush for the job.
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May 9, 2013 04:59
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Replaced brake pads, all four corners. And, since I had the wheels off anyway in my friend's garage, with his POS jack (that's still better than mine), put on the summer tires.KozmoNaut posted:Or, you have wheels that fit so snugly over the hub, that you can just hang them on there and they stay put while you fiddle with the bolts Fucknag posted:In my experience this only happens due to rust. 2. Lift and press wheel onto hub. 3. Hold it in place with one hand, fumble for the light with the other, investigate hole alignment. 4. Use Superior German Wheel Stick to lever the wheel around the few millimetres you're off. 5. Curse (using Superior German Swearing, if available) as the wheel bounces off your knee. 6. Pick the wheel back up, put it back on. 7. Attempt to turn the wheel to line up the holes 8. Listen to your buddy curse as the wheel on his side unexpectedly turns. 9. Pull the wheel off, turn it, re-apply. 10. Repeat step 9 a dozen times until you randomly line up the holes. 11. Drop the bolt as it's going in, lose concentration for a split second, dodge the falling wheel. 12. Repeat until dead.
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May 9, 2013 06:12
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E30's come with said "Superior German Wheel Stick" that you just shove in one of the lug holes that makes the job 1000X easier. It's in the toolkit 
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May 9, 2013 09:53
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About three weeks ago I got a call from the powder coater saying my wheel was ready so I finally picked it up. I was pretty happy with the quality so I dropped off the rest.  This place refinishes wheels for the large BWM dealership on the northside of town, this finish was $120 supposedly because it's coated twice, one color and one clear finish. Single stage is $80 - not sure if that's good or bad but I'm happy.
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May 9, 2013 14:36
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All this talk about lug bolts makes me so glad I "converted" mine to studs.
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May 9, 2013 17:10
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I think you are all a bunch of sissy whiners that you can't deal with a couple bolts. Studs are nice, but bolts aren't that big of a deal.
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May 9, 2013 17:16
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My E46 has wheel bolts and they are really not that big of a pain, and I'm dealing with fairly substantial 245/40-17 wheels/tires. Yeah, studs are even easier, but bolts are really not as difficult as ya'll are making it sound.
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May 9, 2013 17:22
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I'd lose my poo poo if I had to try to thread bolts through the ~70lb wheels on my Jeep.
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May 9, 2013 17:24
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Lightbulb Out posted:I think you are all a bunch of sissy whiners that you can't deal with a couple bolts. Studs are nice, but bolts aren't that big of a deal. Studs made a 20 minute ordeal at the track an adrenaline fueled session of finding out who can change their side of the car fastest. As in we had people standing around with stopwatches drinking beer. Not that the drinking beer part was out of place or anything.
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May 9, 2013 19:14
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Lightbulb Out posted:I think you are all a bunch of sissy whiners that you can't deal with a couple bolts. Studs are nice, but bolts aren't that big of a deal. I'll call you next time I'm on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere at midnight with a flat on an Audi with the UFO rotors. 
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May 9, 2013 19:16
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I never really had much trouble before. Place bolt in socket, put the wheel on the ground, orient the holes correctly, place on hub, screw in single bolt. I can definitely see why it would be useful, but then I can't run fancy center caps like on your LS'.
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May 9, 2013 19:17
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Beach Bum posted:E30's come with said "Superior German Wheel Stick" that you just shove in one of the lug holes that makes the job 1000X easier. It's in the toolkit Audi includes one as well, at least since the mid-2000s.
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May 9, 2013 22:20
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EightBit posted:I'd lose my poo poo if I had to try to thread bolts through the ~70lb wheels on my Jeep. Yeah. It's hard enough to get the studs to line up and slip on properly with my 285/75R16 muddies. Tyre+rims would be 30-40kg. I'd have lost my tyre iron in a fit of throwing rage if I had to deal with bolts.
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May 9, 2013 23:52
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Yep... same size tires here, but retreads, and on heavy rear end steel rims. I would not be happy with lug bolts. I drove my red shitpile cherokee today. It sucks still, so I parked it again. Back to the MJ.
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May 10, 2013 00:21
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Apologized to it after doing this:  Had no idea it was there. There was a lot of other tail light bits on the ground so that made me feel a tiny bit better, but I am pretty bummed. Couldve been worse though, the trunk still opens and locks and the bumper looked untouched.
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May 10, 2013 01:37
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I got them zerks, and lubed them u joint thangs. Also picked up a bearing driver set so I'll get the spindles back on and some parts off the floor.
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May 10, 2013 02:39
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 12:30 |
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Attempted to mount the new oil pan on the DSM to eliminate an oil pan leak. Ordered a $70 aftermarket Spectra pan that is actually pretty well regarded by the community. Rip off the crossmember, transfer case, downpipe, intermediate shaft bracket, and wheel liner necessitated by said crossmemeber removal. Get super OCD on RTV and start mounting up the pan. Running bolts in by hand I hear a tink then metallic sound. HHHmmm odd nothing seems out of place. I finish pan bolts and go to put on the turbo oil drain flange and after fumbling with the bolts notice, the nuts aren't there. poo poo, its in the pan. So.....to hold the drain flange there is a plate with two captive nuts on the inside edge of the pan(two bolts go in from outside the pan) and the spot welds just broke off, Great. Rip it off and rush to clean up the quickly drying RTV. Turns out the pan was slightly banana shaped. Torqueing the bolts just by hand straightened it out. The plate with the nuts was spot welded on while the pan was still banana shaped. Go to just tack weld it on with the mig, and I immediately hate the amount of spatter getting in places I can't see or reliably clean (not to mention burning paint off a brand new oil pan)and give up. Check the pan on a precision block and yup its out a good 1/8th in the middle. WTF. AT this point I become a two year old and smash it on the work bench and walk away. I bought it from Rock auto and they're just a vendor so usually that means SOL there. Go to write an email to Spectra and they don't list an email address ANYWHERE. So I have to call or write a letter. New pans are $209....what the hell is it with these God drat cars. Is it still nickel and dimeing when even the cheap crap is $200? I should have just bolted the flange on and hoped like hell that oil drain flange would never have to be removed.
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May 10, 2013 05:01
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